TX 



'^^ THE HOUSEKEEPER'S 

DOMESTIC CODNSELOR 



COMPILED AND EDITED BY - • • ADELINE O. GOESSLINGl 




PHELPS PUBLISHING COMPANY 

SPRINSRE ID. MASS CHICAGO, ILL » Nfc ,w n^ 




Copyright 1^^_ 



COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT. 



Zyr 




THE VALUE OP WATER 

'Traverse the desert, and then ye can tell 
What treasures exist in the cold, deep well; 
Sink in despair on the red. parch'd earth. 
And then j'e may reckon what water is worth." 



The 
Housekeeper's 
Reference 
" Book 

and Domestic Counselor 




Compiled and Edited by 

Adeline O. Goessling 



The Phelps Publishing Company 

t Springfield, Mass. 



y'b 



<<- 



Copyright, 1910, by 
THE PHELPS PUBLISHING COMPANY 



©CU256072 



Till by experience taught the mind shall learn 
That, not to know at large of things remote 
From use, obscure and subtle, but to know 
That which before us lies in daily life. 
Is the prime wisdom. 

—[John Milton. 



"Books must follow sciences, and not sciences "books." 



"All that mankind has done, thought, gained or been, is 
lying in magic preservation in the pages of books." 



One thing, however, I must premise, that without the assist- 
ance of natural capacity, rules-and precepts are-of no efficacy. — 
IQuintilian. 



Some books are friends; some mere passing acquaintances; 
pleasing for a brief season, but with absence unlamented. The 
friend book is taken to the heart and cherished as a precious 
possession. It is an aid in time of need, a counsellor in time 
of perplexity; a loyal ally at all seasons; no more to be 
dispensed with than our living comrades and companions. 




INTROOUQTION 

HIS book is designed to help the intelligent 
housekeeper of limited means who looks 
upon the domestic field as one worthy of 
her best efforts, and who fully realizes that 
the business of keeping house is the most 
important as well as the most complicated business 
in the world. Between the covers of this book she 
will find an extensive and eminently practical fund 
of household information upon which she can draw, 
almost without limit, to meet the various housekeeping 
problems that inevitably present themselves from year 
to year. The table of contents is a convincing argu- 
ment as to the value of this work. The compiler has 
taken much pleasure in preparing it, and bespeaks for 
it a kindly welcome and hearty appreciation in thousands 
and thousands of American homes. Thanks are here- 
with tendered to all who by their practical contributions 
helped to make this " Housekeeper's Reference Book " 
a success and a worthy companion book to " The Farm 
and Home Cook Book," which has found a useful place 
in numberless homes in every state of the Union. 



Learn to live, and live to learn, 
Ignorance like a fire doth burn, 
Little tasks make large return. 

— [Bayard Taylor. 



Who does the best his circumstance allows, 
Does well, acts nobly; angels could do no more. 

— [Young. 




Household Hygiene and Sanitation 

The Preservation and Promotion of Health 

VERYONE desires that greatest of all bless- 
ings — good health. Given their birthright 
at the start, all may continue to enjoy it 
through life, by carefully observing the 
laws of hygiene and sanitation. Intelligent 
people no longer ascribe sickness to " Providence," 
but rather to the sin of ignorance. The discov- 
eries of science have shown that many of the fatal 
diseases of mankind are preventable. Where men -con- 
gregate more or less in numbers the dangers that menace 
health are proportionately increased, owing to sanitary 
transgressions, which are frequently the result of 
neglect or ignorance. It is, therefore, necessary that 
each individual inform himself and that all co-operate 
for the common good. In cities and large towns sani- 
tary affairs are largely controlled by public boards of 
health, and violations of* the laws subject the individual 
to punishment, but in isolated country districts it is 
necessary for each householder to look after such mat- 
ters himself, if he would enjoy good health. Neglect 
brings its own punishment, sooner or later, in one way 
or another. The laws of hygiene are simple enough, as 
the following directions will show: 



8 THE HOUSEKEEPER'S REFERENCE BOOK 
Air 

Air, fresh, pure air and plentv of it, is absolutely necessary 
to good health. Everyone should try at all times to secure and 
enjoy a maximum of the precious life-sustaining element, and 
yet many ignorantly and unnecessarily deprive themselves of 
as much of it as they can manage to exist without, thereby 
rendering themselves less able to resist insidious attacks of 
disease. When even that dread scourge, that fearful "white 
man's plague," consumption, if taken in time, can be cured 
by making the patient live in the fresh air all the time, it 
would seem that the most ignorant and stubborn ought to be 
convinced that only in fresh air can one seek health and only 
in fresh air can health and vigor be maintained. As air is 
the material most needed by our bodies, we should always 
have an abundance at hand, and be sure it is of the very best 
quality. Many of our hours are spent indoors, and this teaches 
us* the important lesson of airing our homes. It should also 
be remembered that fresh air is easier to warm than 
stale air. 

SnnUght 

Sunlight is one of the most powerful germicides known. It 
destroys germs and spores, and if we could carry sunlight into 
every corner of our houses, there would never be any need for 
disinfectants. The germs of all diseases are killed by direct 
sunlight, in six to eight hours. Thus, the important lesson 
is taught us that well-lighted rooms do not harbor contagion. 
Good ventilation (fresh air) and sunlight are the most impor- 
tant aids to good health. Ideally every house should have an 
entire daily bath of sun-dried air — that is, air that has been 
sterilized by the sun's rays. Not only should there be a free 
circulation of sun-dried air, but there should be no near con- 
ditions' which might render the air impure, such as stagnant 
water, decaying vegetation or animal matter, or any noxious 
refuse. Dampness, darkness and dirt are enemies of good 
health. 

To Test the Purity of Atmosphere 

A simple method of ascertaining the presence of impurity 
(carbonic acid) in the atmosphere is to nearly fill a glass 
tumbler with lime water and to place it on a shelf or mantel- 
piece in a room. The rapidity with which a film or thin skin 
will form on the .surface of this lime water, or the water 
becomes cloudy, corresponds to the amount of carbonate acid 
present in the atmosphere. Another test is a littlfe moist car- 
bonate of lead put on a plate or saucer and exposed in the 



HOUSEHOLD HYGIENE AND SANITATION 9 

same way. Should any sulphurated hydrogen be contained in 
the air, this will turn black. This is a positive test for that 
destructive gas. 

Sulphur as a Disinfectant 

To disinfect a house is a very ^mple matter. A few pounds 
of sulphur burned in each room is a safe and sure disinfectant. 
Take a large iron kettle, put 4 inches sand in the bottom, set 
the kettle on four bricks, put in the kettle a shovel of live 
coals, throw on 3 or 4 lb of powdered sulphur, shut up the 
room tight, and let it remain for 24 hours, then open and air 
for 48 hours, and the room will be ready for use. This will 
not only kill all the germs of disease, but also those pests more 
annoying than dangerous — moths, roaches and bed bugs. 

Ventilating Arrangements 

A very simple arrangement by which the air of an apart- 
ment can be kept pure, without danger of drafts, is to have 
fitted into two windows, on opposite sides of the room, a piece 
of wood 2 inches thick and the exact width of the window. 
Raise the window and let it rest on this strip. A current of 
air will continually pass in betv/een the sashes. When ven- 
tilating rooms, open the windows at top and bottom. The 
fresh air will rush in one way and the foul air will make its 
exit the other. 

Cover a screen of desired size with cheesecloth and insert 
in windows, the same as mosquito or fly screens. By this 
method rooms can be ventilated without creating drafts and 
allowing snow to blow in. Especially good for bedrooms. 
Keep them in all winter. Never close all the windows tight. 

To Fxunigate a Room 

Where there has been sickness, and especially any conta- 
gious disease, fumigation is absolutely necessary. The best 
preparation for this purpose is formaldehyde, burning which 
produces a gas (formaline), in which no germ can live. One 
large formaldehyde candle (it may be had at almost any drug 
store for 50 cents) will fumigate an ordinary sized room. Open 
wardrobe doors, bureau drawers, etc, and throw the bedding 
loosely around. Then secure all openings, so the gas cannot 
escape. Cut strips of newspaper about 2 inches wide, dip into 
hot water, and stick on the edges and cracks of the windows. 
The heat makes the paper stick, and it does not disfigure the 
varnish in the least, peeling off perfectly after it dries. Stuff 
newspapers up the chimney of the open fireplace or grate, or 
If there is a stove, up the pipes. Then light the candle accord- 



10 THE HOUSEKEEPER'Si REFERENCE BOOK 

ing to directions on the box, and leave the room. As quickly 
as possible paste up tbe keyhole from the outside, and the 
cracks of the door. After 4 hours the room may be aired, 
but it is best to let it remain closed 12 hours. This gas does 
not tarnish metals or change the color of clothing, and an 
airing will remove the slight odor. — [C. C, N C. 

Deodorizers and Disinfectants 

Do not confuse the one with the other. Deodorizers are 
what the name implies, and do not disinfect. On the other 
hand, disinfectants are sometimes also deodorizers, but more 
often are almost or wholly odorless. Antiseptics simply 
destroy bacteria, which cause decomposition. .A.mong the dis- 
infectants may be mentioned burning sulphur, burning formal- 
dehyde, carbolic acid, full strength, fresh chloride of lime, 
chloride of zinc, sulphur dioxide, spirits of thymol, and various 
patented articles specially put up for disinfecting purposes. 
Spirits of thymol, chloride of lime and carbolic acid are also 
deodorizers. Good deodorizers for sickrooms are lemon or 
orange peel warmed on a stove lid, vinegar boiled with tincture 
of myhrr, some ground coffee and camphor gum burned 
together, or a flannel rag saturated in spirits of camphor and 
then burned. But if everything is as it should be, there will 
seldom be any use for deodorizers. Fresh air is the best 
of all. 

Water 

Chemists estimate that at least two-thirds of the human 
body is water. As the body is continually giving out water 
through the skin, lungs and kidneys, it must frequently receive 
a new supply to keep up the normal proportion. It is of 
prime importance that the water we drink contain nothing 
harmful to the body. To have water is a necessity; to have 
it harmless is of equal importance. Therefore, a pure, gen- 
erous and convenient supply of water should not be consid- 
ered a luxury, possible only to a few, but a necessity obtain- 
able by all, even at the cost, if need be, of some other less 
important furnishing. It is stated by experts that neither 
looks, taste nor clearness can be trusted to distinguish between 
a, safe or an unsafe water. Analysis alone can establish that. 
One thing on which all are agreed is that drinking water 
polluted by waste material should be avoided. The danger 
most to be feared from drinking such water is typhoid fever. 
When there is any reason to suspect that the drinking supply 
is polluted, it should be boiled 20 minutes after the steam 
begins to rise. This will kill all germs. Another caution:. 



HOUSEHOLD HYGIENE AND SANITATION 11 

water very readily takes up ^ases or bacteria tliat may be in 
the air, and for this reason should not be left long uncovered 
when it is used for drinking. Such care is especially necessary 
in the sickroom. 

Cheap Water Filters 

Take a common garden flower pot of large size and stop 
the drainage hole with a piece of clean sponge, which should 
not, however, be wedged in too tightly. Place a layer of 2 
inches of medium fine charcoal in the pot, then a layer of clean 
sand, and then a 3-inch layer of clean, coarse gravel. Suspend 
this filtering pot over an earthen jar; pour the water in the 
filtering pot, and allow it to drip into the jar. Another method 
is to bore a hole in the bottom of a new, clean, unpainted 
wooden pail. Prepare a slatted wooden bottom for this pail, 
and over it put a piece of clean white flannel to entirely 
cover the bottom of the pail. Then put in some coarsely 
powdered charcoal, some coarse, clean river sand, and some 
sandstone, broken into small pieces. The pail should rest 
upon a little skeleton platform, and a large jar be placed 
beneath it to catch the filtered water. 

A Homemade Water Cooler 

It's a mighty nice thing to have a good supply of cold 
water at hand at the barn or out in the field, when threshers, 
corn huskers or hay harvesters are at 
work. Water in an open pail soon becomes 
stale and unpalatable. Here is a very 
simple and effective arrangement. Put a 
10-gal stone jar inside a flour barrel and 
surround the jar with charcoal, sawdust, 
sand, pebbles, hay, or chaff, if nothing 
else happens to be available. Cover the 
jar with a tight lid and spread over it a 
thick, wet cloth, and then cover the whole 
barrel top with another cloth. By this 
arrangement the water will keep nearly 

CLEAN AND COOL ^^® ^°^*^ ^^ ^^® j^^' ®^®^ though the barrel 
were standing in an open field, fully ex- 
posed to the sun. If you will add a package of oatmeal and 
half a dozen sliced lemons to the water in the jar, the mea 
will be sure to appreciate it. This makes a very healthful and 
cooling drink. 

Wells, Cisterns and Tanks 

The ordinary well is a hole dug in the ground until water- 
bearing layers are reached, and then scooped out to furnisli 




12 THE HOUSEKEEPER'S REFERENCE BOOK 




HOUSEHOLD HYGIENE AND SANITATION 



13 




14 THE HOUSEKBEPER'St REFERENCE BOOK 

sufficient deptli for the collection and storage of water. Very 
often the sides of the well are simply laid with rough stones 
to prevent the dirt from caving in. It should be remembered 
that the shallower the well, the more liable it is to pollution, 
and also that the householder should very carefully locate his 
well with reference to drainage and sewage. 

It is often thought that a well placed higher than any 
known source of pollution is safe. This is a mistake. The 
outlet must be considered as well as the possible place of 
entrance. Infection from the surface is another danger. 
When a well drawn by a pump is covered with boards so 
loose as to allow cracks through which waste water may 
wash, carrying with it more or less dirt of all kinds — insects, 
leaves, and filth carried on boots — the water is sure to 
become polluted. The well, to be safe, must be thoroughly 
protected from all pollution from the top, as well as from 
the sides and bottom. 

Do not put too much faith in "ground filtration." Place 
earth closets, cesspools, manure heaps and all other waste 
material far enough away from well or cistern to make them 
absolutely safe from pollution. Just how far a well may be 
from a source of infection and still be safe cannot be told 
in figures, for it depends upon the direction of the flow of 
the underground water, its force, and the position of rock, 
or condition of soil. Deep driven or bored wells are usually 
safe from surface pollution, but the same precautions about 
sewage contamination should be observed. 

Ground cisterns used for rain water supply should be in 
two parts — the water received in one part, which is provided 
with filtration material (sand, pebble, charcoal), so it can 
filter at the bottom and then pass into the next part, with 
which the pump connects. The cisterns should be made of 
cement and provided with an overflow pipe discharging into 
the open air. They should be so constructed that they may 
be easily inspected and cleaned occasionally. Charcoal and 
borax may be thrown into rain water cisterns now and again. 
Both act as partial purifying agents. 

Where the water is drawn up from wells by some force 
and then stored in house tanks, the latter are often placed 
in dark, inaccessible positions, and are therefore seldom, if 
ever, looked at. This is wrong. The housewife should see 
to it that the tank is well covered and in a sanitary position, 
and also inspect and clean it occasionally when necessary. 
All stored water contains or collects organic matter and dust. 
These form slime over the sides and bottom of the tank — • 
hence the necessity for sometimes emptying and cleaning 
them. 

With a safe water supply, the housewife has next to make 
sure that the conveying pipes do not injure it. Some waters 



HOUSEHOLD HYGIENE AND SANITATION 



15 



dissolve lead and zinc, and others are particularly hard on 
iron. When the drinking and cooking supply of water is 
kept in pails, these should always be covered, since water 
readily absorbs gases and other impurities from the air. 

A Filter for Cistern Water 

Where cistern water is used for drinking or cooking, it should 
by all means be filtered. Much dirt in the way of soot, leaves, 
dead insects, droppings from birds and pollen from trees is 
washed into the cistern unless some means are taken to pre- 
vent it. The simplest arrangement is to have a movable 




FIG I SOFT BRICK FILTER 



section in the leader which can be turned to let the rain wash 
the dirt onto the ground. Then after the roof is cleaned, the 
balance of the rain can go into the cistern. This is objection- 
able in that it needs to be looked after during every rain 
and frequently all the water will be lost. 

The simplest form of filter is to build a partition through 
the cistern, laying up a soft brick wall in cement, as shown 
in Fig 1. This will ordinarily give good satisfaction if the 
impurities which collect on the receiving side of the wall are 
removed occasionally. Another and better form of filter Is 
shown in Fig 2. In this case the cut is supposed to repre- 
sent a 100-bbl cistern and a filter of 25 bbls capacity. They 
are built of either concrete or brick well cemented on the 
inside. 



16 



THE HOUSEKEEPER'S REFERENCE BOOK 



The filter is flat-bottomed and is half filled with charcoal, 
sand and gravel in layers, the charcoal being placed in the 
bottom. The leader which comes from the roof should enter 
the filter on only a slight angle, less, in fact, than shown in 
the cut, in order to prevent rolling the filtering material. 
The material in the filter will need to be removed occasionally 
and replaced with fresh charcoal, sand and gravel. — [P & H. 




FIG II — BEST FORM OF FILTER 



A. Ventilated Platform 

1 have discovered a way to keep the well clean and pure at 
all times. I make the frame of the platform of 2x4's, allowing 
a space 2 to 6 inches between the top and bottom parts of the 
sides. This space is covered on the inside with a fly screen to 
keep out dirt and insects, and outside of this with a larger 
meshed screen to keep out large vermin. This gives good 
ventilation to the well, which never becomes foul. In the 
winter I cover the platform with straw and snow. — [J. H., 
Minnesota. [See illustration on next page.] 

To Detect Hard Water 



To ascertain whether or not water is fit for domestic pur- 
poses, add a few drops of soap and alcohol solution to a glass- 
ful of water. If the water be pure, it will continue limpid; 
if hard, white flakes will be formed. 



HOUSEHOLD HYGIENE AND SANITATION 



17 



To niuminate a Well 

By the use of a mirror to throw a reflection of the sun's 
rays down a deep well, the bottom is clearly seen, and a lost 
bucket or any other object may be easily located. If one 
mirror will not do the work, take two mirrors, one to receive 
the direct rays of the sun, and the other to reflect the rays 
from a mirror. 

Cesspools, Closets and Drains 

There is a question of equal importance with that of water 
supply, namely, disposing of the polluted liquid after you have 
used it. After you have used this water, you have produced 
one of the most foul and baneful poisons in existence. In 
cities the common method is to conduct the fluid wastes into 
the city sewers, but it is rare that sewers are available at 
the farmhouse for the disposing of these poisonous wastes. 
The farmer is compelled to make such disposition of the house 
wastes as may best suit his convenience, but the manner is 
more than likely to be one that would not in many instances 
pass the inspection of sanitary health officials. In past years, 
in pioneer times, and still in some unprogressive localities 
the usual mode of disposing of dish water, house wastes and 
the like is to carry them to the rear stoop and fling them 
out upon the surface of the soil^ only to make a feasting 
ground for flies. 

Outdoor closets are generally built in the most questionable 
manner. They are anything but comfortable, either because 




THIS INSUBES PURE WATER ALWAYS 



18 THE HOUSE KEEPER'S! REFERENCE BOOK 

of the cold in winter or of disgusting odors in summer, to say 
nothing of the dangers consequent upon concentrating any 
befoulment, permitting it to ferment and fester without any 
attempt to deodorize or disinfect, or to protect it from flies. 
The numerous summer complaints, fevers and the like are 
directly traceable to unsanitary conditions somewhere. Such 
diseases as typhoid fever, smallpox, malaria, diphtheria, scar- 
let fever and the like have their origin in filth. 

In the country people ordinarily dig an open well, some- 
times a shallow, bored or driven well, and draw its contents 
up by means of a bucket, suction pump or force pump. The 
well is often improperly covered. Perhaps a short distance 
away he digs another hole, and into this deposits the wastes 
of living. During the rainy seasons the ground becomes satu- 
rated, and this vile cesspool becomes "waterlogged and filled. 
These poisoned fluids find means of escape through worm holes, 
crawfish holes, crevices in the ground or through gravelly veins, 
and without difliculty reach the water supply. 

It is a mistake to suppose that the passing of these cess- 
pool impurities through "crevices or openings or gravel veins 
produces purification, for it usually does not. To secure puri- 
fication of deadly organic wastes there must be a certain 
amount of bacterial growth in the sewage, and when sewage 
is prevented from coming in contact with the air and is kept 
in some subterranean channel or crevice, where the tempera- 
ture is low and when there is no air, little purifying bacterial 
action takes place. Thus poisonous substances may travel in 
sewage great distances in these underground channels or veins 
without having become purified in the slightest degree. Water 
may be clarified and look as pure as crystal and yet be as 
deadly as poison. 

It will be seen that man is his own worst enemy, for the 
wastes of his body are the most dangerous to his life. The 
impure air which he breathes out, the excretions of the skin 
and its dead particles, the solid and liquid excreta or the 
wastes of the digestive processes, are the portions to which 
great attention must be given, if he is to have a healthy life. 
Primitive man, like the animals, trusted to earth to render 
these wastes of digestion harmless. Wherever there are no 
public sewers, the eanth is still available in different ways for 
the harmless disposal of these wastes. The ordinary privy 
is a menace to health as well as an odorous disgrace. The 
excreta in it are exposed to flies, which afterward may carry 
filth and germs of putrefaction to food or to the body. Its 
watery pools become breeding places for mosquitoes, and the 
washings from its putrefying mass may infect the well or 
other source of drinking water. Therefore, such privies should 
be abolished. 

To make a less offensive earth closet, dig a hole far enough 



HOUSEHOLD HYGIENE AND SANITATION 19 

away from dwelling and source of water supply to insure 
safety from pollution for the latter, and disagreeable proxim- 
ity for the former. This hole should be at least 6 ft deep, 
and may be of any dimension desired — 3x6 ft being generally 
considered sufficient. Into this hole put about 2 ft of saw- 
dust, to absorb the liquids. The shelter can then be placed 
over the hole^ and on a shelf or in some handy place there 
should always be found a covered box of fresh stone lime or 
quicklime, and a shovel. Every time the closet is used, a 
shovelful of the lime should be thrown into the closet, and 
every evening a pint of the following disinfectant solution 
should be poured in. Dissolve 10 lbs of copperas in a 5-gallon 
pail of water, then add % pt of clear carbolic acid. Put in 
pint bottles and empty one bottleful in the closet every night. 
The expense and time it takes to do this should not be con- 
sidered, since it is an economic health protective measure. 
Care should be taken to keep the disinfectant out of the reach 
of children, and to plainly label the bottles "Poison." Before 
this earth closet becomes filled with excreta, a new hole 
should be dug and the closet shelter removed to this, while 
the old hole should receive a generous application of quick- 
lime and then be covered with several feet of sand or dry 
loam. All this may sound rather troublesome, but is nothing 
compared to the price of neglect. It is simply self-protection. 
Any house in the country may be provided with a .sanitary 
method for the disposal of human waste, if health and com- 
fort are prized beyond a little trouble and small expense. 



An Indoor Convenience 



An indoor earth closet for the use of children or invalids, 
during the night, or specially inclement weather, is shown in 

the accompanying cut. The 
compartment a, which holds 
the pail, and also the cover, 
should be frequently washed 
with a disinfectant, and 
painted. Some dry loam or 
sawdust should be placed in 
the bottom of the pail. In 
compartment 6, some dry 
loam mixed with fine, sifted 
coal ashes or lime should be 
kept, and also a scoop shovel. 
A shovelful or more of this 
dry mixture should be 
thrown over every deposit in 

FOR INVALIDS OR CHILDREN the pail, and the contents of 




2 THE HOUSEKEEPER'S REFERENCE BOOK 

the latter buried at the first opportunity, or, when the ground 
is frozen, burned with plenty of quicklime. 

About Plumbing 

Be absolutely sure the plumbing is in good order. Better 
spend money on the plumbing than give it to the doctor, drug- 
gist or undertaker. No amount of deodorizers or disinfectants 
will overcome the results of bad plumbing, which renew 
themselves constantly until the cause is removed. Train your 
nose to detect bad odors, and then heed the warning. If not 
sure about the plumbing, have a plumber apply the "oil of 
peppermint test." 

The Cellar 

The cellar may be considered as a reservoir of air for the 
whole house. There is little use in adopting special methods 
of ventilation for the living rooms and sleeping rooms, if foul 
air is allowed to rise constantly from the cellar. More than 
half of the cellar air finds its way into the rooms above. If 
you have any doubts about that, try this experiment: Pur- 
chase at the drug store 1 oz of oil of peppermint and sprinkle 
it around in your cellar. Note how the odor will penetrate 
to every room above. Foul air will do the same. Though 
its odor may not be quite so strong, it is extremely unhealth- 
ful, nevertheless. 

One of the most dangerous qualities of the unhealthful 
house is that it does not always and at once produce a definite 
disease, though such is often its result; but it slowly and 
insidiously causes ill health and general weakness, to which 
women, from their greater confinement to the house, are espe- 
cially subject. In fact, the whole family is made to suffer, if 
the cellar is not as it should be — sanitary — while the patent 
medicine man, the druggist and the doctor — and, alas, even 
the undertaker — fatten on the fruits of neglect, or ignorance 
of the simplest laws of sanitation. 

It is best not to store fruits and vegetables in the cellar, 
but if this must be done, then the greatest care must be used 
to keep them dry and to sort them often, so that the decayed 
and decaying parts may be removed. 

The cellar should at all times be well aired. To accom- 
plish this, one or more of the cellar windows should be open 
day and night, all the year, wire screened in summer, and 
muslin screened in winter. Never close the windows and 
bank up the cellar foundation \vith straw, leaves or manure. 
Such a practice is inexcusable, in the light of present-day 
knowledge about sanitary affairs, which he who reads may 
share. 



HOUSEHOLD HYGIENE AND SANITATION 21 

The sanitary cellar is practically possible. The cellar should 
be as light and dry and clean as any room in the house. The 
walls should be free from dust and cobwebs, and receive a 
coat of whitewash at least once a year, preferably twice a 
year. The ventilation should be perfect. Such a cellar is not 
only a satisfaction to the housekeeper, but it has much to 
do with the well-being of the family. The time and money 
spent in converting the unhealthful cellar into a safe place is 
time and money well spent, which will pay interest in better 
health and less work in succeeding years. 

It should be remembered, however, that even after making 
the cellar or whole house sanitary, it must be kept so. Clean- 
ness and pure air will usually make it safe, but it takes 
eternal vigilance to keep things clean, and to keep the fresh 
air moving through. 

Disinfecting Washes 

See the chapter on whitewashes for all sorts of recipes and 
directions to aid in keeping cellars, rooms and pantries clean 
and healthful. Get into the habit of using preventive meas- 
ures, rather than cures for ills that can be avoided. 

Some Simple Sanitary Helps 

Use fresh stone lime finely powdered, or quicklime, to 
absorb moisture and putrid fluids. If in the cellar or out of 
doors sprinkle it on the place to be dried, but in damp rooms 
place a number of plates containing some of the lime powder. 
Whitewash infected places with pure lime, instead of kalso- 
mine. 

Charcoal powder will absorb putrid gases. The charcoal 
should be dry and fresh, and is more eflicacious when com- 
bined with lime. This forms a compound similar to the 
"calyx" powder sold in shops. Charcoal can be freshened by 
baking in the oven. 

Chloride of lime gives off a chlorine which will absorb 
putrid eflauvia and stop putrification. It is generally used 
the same way lime is used, but if the chlorine gas is wanted 
in cellars, or closed rooms, pour some strong vinegar or 
diluted sulphuric acid upon the plates containing chloride of 
lime and occasionally renew. 

Sulphate of iron (copperas) and carbolic acid are used to 
disinfect waterclosets and drains. Dissolve 8 or 10 lb cop- 
peras in a pail of water and pour I pt of this solution into 
the closets or drain every night and morning. To make it 
still more effective add carbolic acid to the iron solution — i/^ 
pt of the acid to 5 gals of the solution. 



22 THE HOUSEKEEPER'S REFERENCE BOOK 

Carbolic acid (fluid) may be diluted at the rate of from 
50 to 100 parts of water to 1 part of fluid acid. This solution 
may be used for the same purpose as copperas is used, also 
to sprinkle upon any kind of garbage or decaying matter, 
and on foul surfaces or in drains. When used to disinfect 
clothing, carbolic acid of good quality should be thoroughly 
mixed with its own quantity of strong vinegar, and next be 
dissolved in 200 times its own quantity of water before the 
clothing is immersed in it. This mixture with vinegar insures 
such complete solution of the carbolic acid that the clothing 
will not be burned by the acid. The disinfecting and antisep- 
tic power of good carbolic acid is so great that 1 part of it to 
50 or 100 parts of water is suflicient for ordinary purposes. 

For drains, sewers, foul heaps, stables and earth closets 
the cheap "dead oil" of coal tar, or the crude carbolic acid, 
answers every purpose, when freely and persistently applied. 
Coal tar is also available as a disinfectant to paint upon the 
walls of stables, privy vaults and drains. By mixing with 
dry lime coal tar may also be used on foul grounds or heaps 
of refuse. 

Borax alone, or dissolved in water, used freely to pour down 
sinks, etc, removes all noisome smells, acting as a purifier. 
It will sometimes even render impure water wholesome. It 
should be used freely where sewer or other unwholesome 
gases are suspected. A strong solution of common sal soda, 
or washing soda, with hot water, is also good to keep sink 
drains clean. It should be poured down hot no less than 
once a week. 

Permanganate of potash is another most convenient and 
useful disinfectant. It is cheap, and a small bottle of crystals 
should always be kept in the house. For general purposes, 
1 teasp of the crystals dissolved in 1 gal water is the best 
strength. — [F & H. 

If a small jar or box filled with lime be kept uncovered in 
a pantry or cellar, the air will be dry and pure. — [B. E., Ore. 

When cistern water has become unfit for use take 1 lb pul- 
verized alum, dissolve it in 1 qt water, and after pouring it 
into the cistern stir thoroughly with a long pole. This 
should be done toward evening. The next morning add 1 lb 
borax and stir again. Allow, from 10 to 15 hours to settle. 
This will render the water perfectly clear and pure. 

One of the most delicate ways of perfuming a room is to 
fill a dish with boiling water, and then pour in % teasp oil 
of lavender. 

To clear blackened or oily water, add 2 oz each of powdered 
alum and borax to each 20 barrels of water. The sediment 
will settle in a few hours and the water be clear and fit to 
use for washing. — [W. N., Texas. 




Housekeeping and Housecleanin^ 

YSTEM is good, but too much system is as 
bad as too little. Whatever you do, don't 
spoil the peace and comfort of the entire 
household by upsetting the whole place in 
a grand effort to have " cleaning over and 
done with " in some certain period of time. Don't 
take the stoves down the first warm spell in March 
or April. Let the stoves alone a while and begin clean- 
ing up garret, working gradually downward to the 
cellar. Wear comfortable clothing, for you have to lift, 
climb, reach and stoop, and you need garments which 
give free play to all the muscles. Plan meals with a 
view to saving time and strength. Give the family 
plenty of nourishing and appetizing food, but when you 
begin real hard housecleaning, have on hand a liberal 
supply of food, which can be used cold or warmed over 
for one or two meals. Every day, take an hour off to 
rest. This is not a waste of time. It is an economy. You 
will resume work refreshed by the short rest and be able 
to plan and perform much better than if you had toiled 
steadily onward. 

The Garret 

The garret should never be the privileged place of disorder, 
the one spot where all rubbish is consigned, where chaos reigns 
supreme, and the accumulated rubbish of years is stored to 
mold, rust, draw moths, and attract dust, dirt and disease. 
Keep the garret windows open all summer, but screen them. 
Always have a current of air passing through, unless, perhaps. 



24 THE HOUSEKEEPER'S REFE RENCE BOOK 

in time of heavy storms. Don't forget to sweep it. No house 
can be absolutely clean that keeps a reservoir of dust at the 
top. It will sift down, despite closed doors. 

Don't keep so many useless things. Get rid of all that you 
can, and sort the rest systematically. Put white rags in one 
bag, the colored in another, silks and velvets in a box, etc, 
and label all bags and boxes plainly. Put all boxes on shelves 
and underneath them hang the bags and any cotton garments 
not needed. Do not hang up woolen garments at all. They 
are simply breeding places for moths. Air and brush them 
and pack in a carefully aired and cleaned trunk or box, with 
newspapers between, above and below them, and a sprinkling 
of camphor or moth balls between each layer. The floor should 
be washed well with a solution of carbolic water. 



The Cellar 

Remove all removable things, sweep every nook and cranny, 
including ceiling, clear out all cobwebs, open bins and closets 
and set doors and windows wide open. In every bin, or 
inclosed place, put a dish with several lumps of quicklime in 
it. Sprinkle a little copperas over it, let it slake, but add no 
water. This takes away bad odors. Scatter fresh, dry borax 
all around, in corners and along the walls. Wherever it will 
not be in the way, hang a piece of netting with some fresh 
charcoal lumps tied inside. Charcoal has a marvelous power 
to absorb bad smells. Apply a good coat of cellar whitewash 
(see whitewash recipes) to all walls, wash and paint shelves, 
and then have a free, unobstructed current of fresh air allowed 
free access, since an unhealthful, close, dark cellar usually 
means an ailing family above it. 



Stoves and Chimneys 

Clean stoves thoroughly, inside and out, and rub well with 
kerosene or linseed oil those that are to be set away for the 
summer. This will prevent rust. If convenient, wrap paper 
or gunny sacks around them. It is an easy matter to clean 
a chimney, says one woman who has tried it. Just throw 
a piece of zinc into the fire — a piece ripped off your old wash- 
board will do — and it will do the work, and do it well. This 
hint is worth remembering and passing along. A good polish 
to cleanse and brighten the nickel plating on stoves can be 
made as follows: Take equal parts of whiting and baking 
soda and mix to a thin paste with water. Apply with a soft 
rag, rub a little, wipe off with a clean, moist rag, and then rub 
dry with tissue or any other soft paper. 



HOUSEKEEPING AND HOUSECLEANING 2S 

Closets, Chests and Cupboards 

Clean the closets thoroughly. Remove all contents and sort 
them. Remove to garret all that for which you have no 
possible use the coming season, clean all that need cleaning, 
replace what is wanted, after thoroughly washing, and dis- 
infecting, if need be, all shelves and parts of the closet. If 
you find moth traces, sprinkle borax in all dark corners and 
spray some Persian insect powder into cracks and corners. 
Or use liberal quantities of borax mixed with a little powdered 
sugar to destroy insects. 

When cleaning chests or closets where clothing is kept, 
heat a small piece of iron red hot, place it in a metal bucket, 
put it in the cupboard and pour over it a small cup of vine- 
gar. Shut the door quickly and tightly and you will not be 
troubled with moths, as the steam permeates every crevice 
and kills everything. Of course, contents should first be 
removed from the closet. — [R. D., Md. 



Shades and Curtains 

Take the old shades ofE the rollers and with a long stitch 
hem the top ends on sewing machine. Put the sticks in the 
new hems and tack the old hems to the roller. 

"When your window curtains acquire that dingy, dust-stained 
appearance, so annoying to a neat housewife, try cleaning and 
freshening their surfaces with corn meal. Spread the shades 
flat on a large table, heat the meal thoroughly in oven, then 
rub the shades with the hot meal with a brisk circular motion 
of the hand, as though trying to rub it into them. Then, 
with a clean, dry cloth, remove all traces of the meal. You 
will note with pleasure that dirt and dust .stain have disap- 
peared with the meal dust. — [F. T., N D. 

To mend curtains, wash^ starch and iron, or dry on frame 
in usual way. Then cut generous pieces of some old curtain 
large enough to more than cover the torn or worn places. 
Dip these pieces in thin starch, lay over the holes, and iron 
dry. The pieces will adhere, and, skilfully done, the mend- 
ing will not show. 

Screen Doors and Windows 

Clean and paint window and door, screens early in the 
spring, so they will be ready in time. Wash or scrub with 
soapy water, rinse and dry in sun and air. Paint with very 
thin, black or dark green paint. It is improved if mixed with 
a small part of varnish. 



26 THE HOUSEKEEPER'S REFERENCE BOOK 

Window Washing 

Don't forget the blinds. BruBh the dust from all slats 
and corners and wipe with a damp cloth. Dust sash and 
glass before washing. Have plenty of water, but don't slop. 
Wash sash first with borax water or soapsuds, and dry with 
a soft, thick cloth. For the glass there are many good com- 
mercial, non-scratching scouring soaps to be had. It is better 
not to use much soap. Put kerosene or ammonia in the 
water, or a combination of both, allowing 1 tablesp of each 
to a qt of water. Dry with a soft cloth and polish with a 
lint-free cloth, or with tissue paper. Never wash windows 
when the sun is shining on them. Remove paint spots with 
clear ammonia, kerosene, turpentine, oxalic acid, or strong 
solutions of vinegar or sal soda, hot. Can also be rubbed off 
with coin. 

Floors and Walls 

If you have fitted carpets, take them up. You would do 
better not to relay them, but to paint and varnish floors and 
convert your carpets into rugs. Fitted carpets are more or 
less unsanitary, hard on the housewife, and entirely out of 
date. Clean floor thoroughly, fill cracks (see directions else- 
where), and either stain or paint, and then varnish. This 
will kill vermin and germs. 

Carpets should be carried out of doors, spread on the 
grass, and thoroughly beaten on both sides — the wrong side 
first. If very dirty, hang up on a line and beat some more. 
But the very necessity of so much cleaning proves that fitted 
carpets are not sanitary. The colors of old carpets can be 
brightened by wiping with ammonia and water. 

When laying matting, first wash and dry the floor thoroughly, 
then place several thicknesses of newspapers under it. It will 
prevent wear and catch any dust that sifts through. When 
matting gets dingy, wipe off any stains or spots with damp, 
soapy cloth, and then sweep thoroughly, lastly freshening it 
by going over it with a cloth dipped in ammonia water. To 
clean, sweep twice, the first time along the grain of the straw, 
the next crosswise with a soft broom. Then dissolve a hand- 
ful salt in a pail of tepid water and wash quickly. Use well- 
wrung cloths. Cover grease spots thickly with prepared 
chalk and soda, wet with turpentine, let it remain two days, 
then brush off with stiff brush. 

Linoleum or oilcloth, after being washed, can be bright- 
ened by wiping with skim milk. Floor varnish applied to 
new linoleum will save the pattern from wearing off. 

After carefully cleaning stained and varnished floors, dry 
thoroughly and wipe with a cloth dampened with kerosene 
and dipped in furniture polish. 



HOUSEKEEPING AND HOUSECLEANING 27 

Clean papered walls by wiping with a clotli mop tied over 
the broom brush, and remove stains or streaks with a dough 
made of bread and ammonia water. 

To clean painted walls, make a thin paste of baking soda 
in a dish, using cold water. Dip a moist sponge or cloth 
in this and apply to painted walls. Wash off with warm, 
thin soapsuds, and dry with a clean cloth. This is an 
excellent method, as it leaves no streaks, and the walls will 
look like new. — [W. M. G., N J. 

Floor and Wall Crack FiUers 

For the floors these are made of boiled flour paste con- 
taining alum, and .shredded newspapers stirred in until thick 
enough. Boiled glue and sawdust are used the same way, or 
just plain putty. For wall or ceiling cracks use plaster of 
Paris mixed with vinegar and water, or borax and water, to 
prevent too rapid hardening. 

Whitewashing, Painting or Papering Walls 

Directions for this work will be found in other chapters 
of this book. But if you have no need of so treating the walls, 
simply brush and wipe them. New walls that have never 
been papered must first be treated to a coat of glue "size." 
The same holds good when new walls are to be painted with 
oil paint. Whitewashed walls must be washed off with vine- 
gar and water, before papering. To make size, soak 1 lb 
glue in enough cold water to cover it for 12 hours, then add 
12 qts boiling water and 1 tablesp powdered alum. Before 
putting this sizing on walls, wash off all kalsomine or white- 
wash. If the walls have been rough plastered, smooth down 
the projecting grains of sand with a piece of hard wood, and 
if they are very bad, apply a thin coat of paste and allow 
it to dry, before papering. — [M. G. W., Col. 

Beds and Bedding 

Corn husks and sweet straw both make good, comfortable 
beds. The husks should be free from stalk or silk and per- 
fectly dry. Dry oat chaff or white printing paper, cut fine, 
make good filling for pillows. 

To clean feather pillows, empty the filling into a bag of 
cheesecloth, tie the mouth tight, and wash in a tub of strong 
white soapsuds, slightly tinged with ammonia. Souse up and 
down 10 to 15 minutes, then rinse in clear, warm water twice. 
Do not squeeze, but hang to drain and dry in a slightly warm 
and breezy place. When half dry, shake up the feathers 
several times. When all dry, place the bag in a thicker one 



28 THE HOUSEKEEPER'S) REFERENCE BOO K 

and whip vigorously with a whip or switch. The feathers 
will then be as good as new. A feather bed can be washed 
in the same way, but it takes much time, patience and water. 

Feather beds or pillows should be thoroughly aired every 
week. It is better not to place them in the sun, as there is 
sometimes oil left in the quills, which the rays of the sun 
make rancid. They need air rather than heat. When you 
want to put them away for the summer, tie them loosely in 
sheets and hang them in an airy garret or room. Packing 
in chests hurts the feathers. 

Our grandmothers used to expose feather bedding to heavy, 
warm, spring showers, letting them become fully .soaked, then 
dry them in the wind, and while drying, shaking and turning 
and stirring often. They also waxed the inside of the ticks, 
to prevent feathers working through. 

Now that wire and chain springs are used so much on 
bedsteads, it is economy to buy a piece of felt to place between 
the wire and mattress. Newspapers will do as well, but need 
replacing often. Otherwise the cover of mattress will be 
rusted, or worn out. 

See chapter on household pests for bug remedies. 



Mending and Cleaning Furniture 

If you have any furniture that needs mending, attend to 
that before the actual housecleaning begins. The articles 
will then be all ready to replace, when you are through. 

See chapters on glues and cements, also paints and stains, 
including crack fillers, etc. Use benzine to clean upholstered 
furniture and banish moths. White stains or discolorations 
on the highly polished wood can be removed by gently rubbing 
with spirits of camphor or essence of peppermint. The stains 
will disappear in a few hours. 

Leather furniture should be washed clean with warm water, 
thoroughly dried, and then polished off with a mixture of 
equal parts white of egg and water. Flaxseed water is also 
good. 

Equal parts of skimmed milk and water, warmed, will 
remove fly specks from varnished wood without hurting the 
varnish. 

Old mahogany is apt to get filmy, no matter how well cared 
for. Wash it, when it gets so, with weak, tepid suds, and 
then polish with French polish, being careful not to use it 
near any fire or flame. 

The stains left by jugs or cups of hot water or hot dishes 
may be removed by rubbing with kerosene oil, afterward 
pouring on a few drops of alcohol, and rubbing it dry with 
a soft cloth. 



HOUSEKEEPING AND HOUSECLEANING 29 

To Clean Tables, Tubs and Sinks 

Rub enameled sinks or tubs well with a cloth saturated in 
kerosene oil. Then rinse with warm water and soap. 

Kitchen tables may be made very white and clean by using 
% lb sand and Vz lb lime. Work some dissolved soap into the 
dry ingredients. Apply the mixture with a scrubbing brush 
and wash off with plenty of cold water. — [B. E., Ore. 

Polished tables may be kept in good condition if about 
once a week they are rubbed with a mixture of equal parts 
of turpentine and olive oil. Apply with a piece of flannel, 
afterward polishing with a dry cloth. — [A. R. D., Ida. 

My sink is iron. I keep it from rusting by cleaning well 
every night before retiring, drying with a dry mop cloth, and 
then rubbing well with kerosene. — [A. G., Mass. 

Furniture and Metal Polishes 

See chapter under this head containing recipes for preparing 
home-made articles. They are very satisfactory and can be 
made cheaply. Always remember not to use anything con- 
taining benzine or naphtha in a room with light or fire. 

A Substitute for Hardwood Floor 

If you want to use a rug in parlor or dining-room, and 
your floors are of soft wood or otherwise impossible, make 
a border of a cheap grade of oilcloth, using the underside, 
painting it the color of hard wood, and tacking it around the 
sides of the room. It is an excellent substitute. 

To Clean Kitchen Drain Pipes 

Once a week, in the evening, just before retiring, pour into 
the sink drain a strong and hot solution of lye or of sal soda. 
It will mingle with the grease in the drain pipes and form 
crude soap during the night. Next morning pour in a kettle- 
ful of boiling water. Use a fine strainer tin in your sink, 
and never pour in grease, tea leaves, or coffee grounds, or 
anything that will clog. 

About Dish Cloths and Towels 

In all too many homes these articles are neglected and 
allowed to do duty while in a filthy and highly unsanitary 
state, constituting a serious menace to health. It is a small 
matter, entailing practically no expense and little expendi- 
ture of time, to have on hand always a sufficient number of 
clean dish-cloths and towels. The former should be boiled 



30 THE HOUSEKEEPER'S REFERENCE BOOK 

every day in soda or borax water and dried in the fresh air, 
while the latter should be washed often and thoroughly 
enough to insure a towel as clean as those used for the face. 
The so-called "chain dish cloths" should also be frequently 
scalded with soda water. 

To Make Brooms Last Longer 

Scald the broom with hot soda water or soapsuds. Do 
this every week and the broom will last many weeks longer. 
While wet, the broom should be pressed into natural shape 
and dried. Hang the broom up. Put a little hook in the 
end of handle and have a nail for it. It will last twice as 
long as if stood in a corner. — [D. H. I., Del. 

To Remedy Damp Walls 

Line the damp part with sheet lead, not thicker than that 
used to line tea chests. Fasten with copper nails to the 
wall. Paper can then be put on wall. Another method is 
to cover the damp part with a varnish made of % lb shellac 
to 1 qt naphtha. The odor soon disappears and the wall is 
covered with a hard coating impervious to damp and to which 
the paper may be attached in usual way. Another remedy 
is to wash the walls with a strong solution of alum and water. 

Scouring Soap 

Dissolve a cake of white soap in a little water by gentle 
heat, then mix in equal quantities of sifted whiting and very 
fine white sand, and about one-quarter that quantity of pow- 
dered sal soda and borax. [See laundry chapter for other 
soaps, and homemade cosmetics for toilet soaps.] 

Benzine for Cleaning 

Benzine as a cleanser is invaluable in every household, not 
only for cleaning spots on clothing and kid gloves, but for 
various purposes about the housework. Unsightly grease 
spots, finger marks on woodwork, or dirt on windows yield 
to a few drops of benzine with scarcely any labor expended. 
The rims formed on bath tubs or wash basins, and the spots on 
marble, vanish quickly if rubbed with a cloth saturated with 
benzine. In fact, all bath or bedroom necessities can be kept 
spotless with benzine. Care should be taken not to use it 
near or in a room with a fire or flame, and also remember 
that but a few drops of the powerful benzine is all that is 
needed at a time. — [F. T., N D, 



HOUSEKEEPING AND HOUSECLEANING 31 

To Glean a Clock 

Many an old clock which refuses to run or fails to keep 
good time could be made to do duty again by soaking the 
works in kerosene oil. If the clock is of metal, the kerosene 
may be poured by the spoonful over every part of the works, 
but if the clock case is of any material which would be 
injured or made unsightly by the kerosene oil, the whole 
works should be carefully removed and thoroughly cleaned 
with kerosene oil, and then returned to the clock. It is said 
a tiny dish or tin cover, containing a sponge and kerosene 
oil, placed inside of the clock, will prevent dust from accumu- 
lating on the works and keep the clock in good condition. 

To Clean Paint 

All the caustic alkalis deface paint. In washing painted 
surfaces, therefore, it is best to use borax soap or borax 
powder, reinforcing both with liquid ammonia, for very dirty' 
paint. Whiting mixed to a cream with tepid water is also 
good. 

To Freshen Gilt Frames 

Carefully dust them, then wash gently with 1 oz baking; 
Boda beaten with the whites of 3 eggs. Touch up scraped', 
places with gold paint. Or, take sufficient flour of sulphur, 
to give a golden tinge to 1% pts of water, put 4 or 5 onions 
in this, and boil until the onions are very soft. Strain, and 
when cold, wash the frames with this solution, using a 
soft brush. When dry, the frames will look like new. — 
[M. H., S D. 

To Mend Kettles 

When a water pot rusts through where the sides join the 
bottom, it is not necessary to throw it away, or to carry it 
to the tinner's. The holes may be effectually stopped by 
covering them inside with a small piece of linen dipped in 
copal varnish, the tin being previously well cleaned and dried. 
Allow the varnish to harden thoroughly before using and the 
vessel will be perfectly water-tight. 

Holes in iron kettles may be stopped by driving in plugs 
of lead and heading them down well on both sides of the iron. 
So long as water is in the kettle, the lead will not melt. 
[See also chapter on soldering.] 

A Handy Wood Box 

Don't keep your wood box in the kitchen to make dirt and 
catch dirt, but have it on the porch or in the woodshed, built 



32 



THE HOUSEKEEPER'S REFERENCE BOOK 



against the wall, and have a small door made opening from 
this into the kitchen. It is easily emptied, easily filled and 
saves much space. 





v/i"m^) 



OUTSIDE AND INSIDE VIEW OF WOOD BOX 



Cleaning Hints 

To clean soiled sponges dissolve a piece of soda or a spoonful 
of borax in a basin of hot water. Let the sponges stand in 
this for some time, to allow the dirt to soak out. Rinse 
thoroughly in hot and then cold water. Let dry in the sun 
out of doors. — [E. K., Mass. 

Wet Indian meal, scattered generously over the carpet, 
before sweeping, will brighten and cleanse it wonderfully. 
Salt and small pieces of wet newspaper or damp tea leaves 
will also brighten it, but are not so effective as the meal. — 
ED. H. I., Del. 

To remove match marks from paint, rub the spot with a 
cut lemon. Then, to prevent a repetition of the offense, apply 
a little vaseline and rub the spot dry with a rag. It will 
be difficult to again strike a match thereon. — [F. E. F., O. 

Moth infested clothes closets may be cleaned by washing 
with a strong decoction of tobacco and spraying with spirits 
of camphor. 

Broken egg shells and soapsuds will clean a bottle. Rinse 
thoroughly. A small handful of shot will also cleanse them, 
but be careful not to break the bottle. To remove odor from 
bottles fill with cold water, let stand in any airy place, un- 
corked, for 3 days, changing the water each day. 

Cooking utensils and other articles which retain the smell 
of fish can be cleansed by being filled with fresh earth. 
Knives and forks can be stuck into fresh earth and left there 
for an hour. Then wash, and the odor will be gone. — ' 
IF. E. F., O. 



HOUSEKEEPING AND HOUSECLEANING 



33 



y^'ht.. ' ' not lift all my carpets in the spring, I scatter 
salt lihe il V er them before sweeping; if I think necessary, 
I repea. ; j.; acess several times. Then I go over the carpet 
with ai; ' it vater, using 1 teasp to 1 qt water. It is won- 
derful L. "liu. will brighten and help the appearance of a 
carpet.— ; C, N Y. 

DoF't ! org'j the backs of the pictures or the tops of the 
doors, t i,u: i es of dust settle in these places, and vermin 
are of* ". i r ' there. 

After rn.: i has been squeezed from lemons do not throw 

away ; This is excellent for cleaning brass articles 

of all , 'ip the peel in salt and fine bath brick and 

rub bri. the article. — [Mrs G. E. R., Mass. 

If till ■:;■ 13 rusty, remove all the rust possible with a 
stiff wir .^ b;iic>i and wash with strong vinegar before polish- 
ing. Tbeu proceed as usual. 

Wheu you upset hot fat on floor or table, throw cold water 
ou it at once. This cools and hardens the fat, and prevents 
it fvom spreading and sinking into the wood. Scrape it ofC 
B.n''A wa'sh with hot soda water and sand. 

To n-.'ikp a ]-frosene dust cloth, saturate a soft cloth with 
T-crr(. ^ -- -■ let it evaporate. The cloth will then dust 

/'.. . ich better results than usual. 

mers and polishers, washing and cleaning 
and furniture polishes, etc, see other chap- 
These articles can easily be made at home. 



ptLates ana :C . .. 
ters in this l*co 
at &mail exp-^ir- 



All Sorts of Pointers 



3k-ened with whiting and rubbed into a leak 
ip a leak when other things fail. This, of 
■y to the smaller leaks and is at best but a 



Tack ece of rubber overshoe to bottom of step- 

ladder ^jy will not slip on a wet floor. It's better 

to use prs'.-!.n and save a hard fall with a broken leg or 
arm as a result. Most accidents come as the result of haste 
or lack of precaut;on. 

Take the ha ' : of a worn-out mop, and fasten a large 
bunch of old dngs securely to it, in convenient shape. 

It is best to ^.plit > em open from top to bottom before fasten- 
ing them to the handle. This makes a good mop. — [M. B. 
M., Ind. 

If the cpn-ir !F cl rk, paint the bottom step white. This will 
prevent ui.i;; in -ips. 

Insert i art. o: -i old broom handle in the tin handle of 
your dustpan. Yov need not stoop then to use the dustpan. 



34 THE HOUSEKEEPER'S! REFERENCE BOOK 

When you need a small funnel to pour some liquid into 
a bottle, just take a thick, smooth white paper, roll into a 
cornucopia, cut off a bit of the point, pin securely, and use. 

Throw copperas on decaying matter and it will kill the foul 
smell that rises from it. — [C. L. A., O. 

To Stop Leaks Around Chinmeys 

Leaks around chimneys may be stopped effectively by apply- 
ing a paste made of tar and dry sifted road dust, '."le paste 
should be well lapped over the shingles, to form a c> r \ar. 

To Harden Wooden Pulleys ' 

Boil the pulleys about 8 or 10 minutes in olive oil, after 
which let them stand in a warm place for a few days before 
using. Treated this way the pulleys will not be so easily 
affected by weather conditions. 

To Bronze Plaster Oasts 

To make a good, green bronze, such as is used for Fren'ch 
statuary, dissolve 1 oz salammoniac, 3 oz cream of tartar and 
6 oz common salt in 1 pt hot water; then add 2 oz coppei" 
nitrate dissolved in a pint of hot water. Mix well together 
and apply with a brush. 

To Preserve Steel from Bust 

Sleigh runners, skates and other steel articles, which are 
only in use for a limited time during the year, may be effect- 
ually preserved from rust by giving them a coating of common 
lard (free from salt and water), and pulverized black lead with 
a little camphor. To remove rust from steel, apply kerosene 
oil freely. Allow the oil to remain on until the rust is loosened, 
when it can be rubbed off easily. 

Cheap Burglar Alarm 

A simple little brass wedge with a small piece of the same 
metal attached to its sloping side makes a cheap but effective 
burglar alarm. The wedge has only to be pushed from the 
inside between the closed door and the door sill. Any 
attempt to open the door from the outside would only tighten 
the wedge. A percussion cap can be inserted between the 
wedge and the piece of the metal riveted upon it. The slightest 
attempt to force the door would explode the cap. This style 
of wedge may also be made of hardwood with a little piece 
of tin riveted on. A hole may be bored in the wedge, so that 
it may be temporarily secured to the floor with a nail, about 
3 inches in front of the door. 




Vermin and Insect Pests 

Dangerous to Health and Prosperity 

'E are all agreed that vermin and noxious 
insects are unclean and undesirable. It 
may not be as well known that these pests 
are, also, a positive danger to human 
health and prosperity. Careful investiga- 
tion shows that flies, mosquitoes, fleas, rats, and biting 
insects generally, carry and cause such terrible diseases 
as yellow and typhoid fevers, malaria, diphtheria, dysen- 
tery, and other intestinal disorders. They are a dis- 
tinct menace to the health of infants and are justly held 
responsible for the deaths of many helpless children. In 
many agricultural sections the prevalence of the insect 
plague has reduced largely the value of both real estate 
and live stock. Dairies have been abandoned and large 
areas of land lie idle in excellent localities because of the 
nearness of mosquito breeding swamps, which send forth 
millions of these blood-sucking pests to torment man and 
beast, and drive them to retreat. Moths and carpet beetles 
destroy much valuable property and are unprofitable 
creatures. They should be killed. Cockroaches, bed- 
bugs, ants, fleas, rats, are all filthy, all more or less dan- 
gerous to health, and certainly inimical to human happi- 
ness and prosperity. They can all be kept out of our 
homes by watchfulness, care and cleanliness. In using 
the recipes that follow every care should be taken to pre- 
pare exactly as described. If unsuccessful, the trouble 
can usually be traced to some error in manipulation, 
quantities used, or, possibly, poor material. " Try 
again," is an excellent motto in such cases. The recipes 
given are the best of a large collection, carefully selectedj 



36 THE HOUSEKEEPER'S REFERENCE BOOK 

How to Avoid Them 

An ounce of prevention is always worth sixteen of cure. 
It is best to say right here that most pests exist and thrive in 
and around homes because of the carelessness or indifference 
of the occupants. Take the mosquito nuisance. Mosquitos 
cannot live without water. They don't need much, either. 
They will increase and multiply in an old can, a discarded 
cup, a broken bottle, in any hollow or hole which will contain 
the least bit of moisture. The remedy is simple. Destroy 
all such breeding places. If they come from a pond which 
cannot be drained, pour kerosene oil over the surface. It 
takes but little and it will kill them. One ounce of oil to 
fifteen square feet of water, renewed every month, must be 
used. There are bodies of water where oil is impossible of 
use. Certain fish can then be introduced to these places, which 
feed on the larvae. 

Flies are found on all filth or garbage. They are nature's 
scavengers. It is their duty to try and "clean up," by con- 
suming all putrefying matter, whether it be stable manure or 
decaying food. They carry disease germs, and as one mother 
fly lays over a hundred eggs at a time, most of which become 
adult flies in two weeks, their menace to health is appalling. 
If, however, every home is kept absolutely clean, well aired, 
well screened, and if no vestige of food or filth is left about 
for the insects to feed upon, their numbers would be appre- 
ciably reduced in a very short time. Take strict care of barns, 
sheds and houses, keeping them absolutely clean, and you 
avoid these pests. 

The hardest insect to destroy is the bed bug. Eternal 
vigilance is the price of freedom from this dirty pest. It 
is hardy and prolific. It inhabits both clothing and furniture, 
is found in cracks in floors and walls, behind loose wall paper, 
in nail holes, back of picture moldings, and they will travel 
from one apartment to another, and from one house to another, 
in search of victims. Daily watchfulness is necessary to avoid 
visits of these pests, as they are very tenacious of life. Each 
mother bug lays several batches of eggs every season, hatch- 
ing into life in about seven days. 

Moths may be avoided by careful and early storage of furs 
and all woolen garments, by early screening of doors against 
the moth miller, and by admitting sun and air liberally to all 
parts of the house, as well as by discarding heavy carpets and 
tapestries. 

To discourage ants from one's home, leave no crumbs of 
food anywhere. Cover tightly all sweet and fatty foods, and 
thus fail to offer them any inducements to come. The same 
course will eliminate rats and mice. They come to eat. If 
they find nothing they will try some more profitable place. 



VERMIN AND INSECT PESTS 37 

Fleas may be largely eliminated from one's list of pests 
by the kindly and proper care of pet dogs and cats. If you 
keep tbese creatures free from such parasites, you help your- 
self also, as fleas and their eggs usually come from the coats 
of pet animals. The absence of floor cracks is a help in avoid- 
ing the flea pest, as their eggs hatch in such crevices. Fill 
up all such cracks. Remember that sunshine, fresh air in 
plenty, absence of food to attract insects or vermin and clean- 
liness are indispensable adjuncts to aid in a complete and 
permanent extermination of any kind of vermin or insect. 

About Flies 

The fly is largely a domestic insect, the most common species 
being the ordinary non-biting house fly. Its mouth is 
peculiarly adapted to the lapping or sucking of foods and 
liquids, and it cannot bite or pierce flesh. The female lays 
her eggs in any kind of manure or decaying matter of any 
description. Each mother fly lays one hundred or more eggs 
at a time, and these pass through the four stages from egg 
to adult life in ten to fourteen days. This accounts for the 
immense numbers of flies, when they are permitted to breed 
unmolested. 

The blowfly, or "bluebottle," deposits its eggs on any handy 
animal substance, preferably rotten. These eggs are called 
"fly blows." They hatch in a few hours into maggots. To 
show their voraciousness, Linnseus says that the maggots 
formed from three flies would consume a dead body more 
quickly than a lion would. So rapacious are they that they 
increase two hundred times their original weight in twenty- 
four hours. The flesh fly is a larger species. It drops living 
worms on dead flesh, the worms, or maggots, being formed 
within the fly. 

The cheese fly is small, black, with transparent wings. 
It lays its eggs in cracks in cheese, two hundred or more at 
a time. These develop into skippers, which live in and 
consume this cheese. 

Some fly maggots spin cocoons. Others are simply encased 
in hardening skin, a sort of chrysalis, from which the fully 
developed fly escapes by forcing its way out with its head. 

The plague of flies would be insufferable did not so many 
die. Few grow old. Most of those hatched during the 
hot weather die when frosts come. A very few escape, finding 
warm shelter, and a few more nass the winter in a chrysalis 
state. 

There are dozens o^ methods by which to reduce their 
numbers or get rid of them altogether. Fly papers and 
poisons of various kinds, insect powders, screens, traps, fly 
drivers and fly spatters are all efficacious. 



38 THE HOUSEKEEPER'S REFERENCE BOOK 

Traps of various kinds, from the patented wire cage to the 
tumbler half filled with strong soapsuds, covered with a card 
or slice of bread, a hole made in center, and under side 
smeared with molasses, are effective in a more or less degree. 

The ordinary whisk broom is a good individual fly catcher, 
as is the ordinary fly "spatter," To drive them out of a room, 
nothing is better than many long, narrow strips of newspaper 
tied to a flexible stick. The flies are frightened by noise and 
movement, and if there is only one avenue of escape left, they 
seek it. Following are some useful recipes: 

Fly Poisons and Repellents 

Mix together 1 teasp each of ground black pepper and brown 
sugar. Moisten with thick cream or condensed milk. Very 
effective. — [A. G., Mass. 

Beat the yolk of 1 egg, add 1 tablesp molasses and 1 tablesp 
black pepper, and spread thin on paper or plate. — [P. L., S C. 

Boil ^ oz quassia chips in 1 pt water. Mix with 4 oz 
molasses. Put in shallow plates. — [S. D., Man. 

Boil together equal parts glue and molasses. Spread, while 
hot, over common brown paper, with a brush. Place a sheet 
wherever the flies congregate and you will soon be rid of 
them. — [E. K., Mass. 

Boil together 4 oz lard and 1 lb rosin. Spread thinly on 
manila paper, place one sheet on top of another, and press 
together. When wanted, tear them apart and they are ready 
for use. — [Mrs A. R. D., Ida. 

To 7 oz each of raw linseed oil and molasses, add 2 lbs 
yellow rosin. Mix by heating. Spread while warm on sheets 
of manila paper. — [R. M. F., Me. 

Add 2 teasp formalin (40 per cent formaldehyde) to a soup 
plate of water. This is very effective, but is a deadly poison 
and must be used with care. — [A. G., Mass. 

Make a very strong green tea. Sweeten well and place in 
saucers where flies are most numerous. — [L. E., Mich. 

Procure some quassia chips from your druggist, put a few 
on a dish, pour hot water over them and sprinkle with a little 
brown sugar. Place where flies are most troublesome. — • 
[Mrs C. S., Okla. 

Put a few drops of oil of lavender on a sponge, place in a 
small dish, and pour some boiling water over the sponge. 
Place this near screen doors where flies gather. The odor 
will scatter them, and if placed in a room, will make it much 
easier to drive them out. — [Mrs J. I., O. 

To drive flies from the house, saturate small cloths with 
oil of sassafras, and suspend them in windows and doors. 
The flies will soon leave. — [F. B. F., O. 



VERMIN AND INSECT PESTS 39 

Try keeping flies off the screen doors and windows by rub- 
bing the framework of them over with kerosene occasionally. 
The odor seems to be offensive to flies. — [Mrs Mary E. 9., 
N Y. 

The germs of consumption have been discovered in the 
bodies of flies caught in rooms occupied by consumptive 
patients. 

Don't let flies come in. Well-fitted screens will keep them 
out. 

You can't keep flies out of a house if there are piles of 
horse manure near the premises for them to breed in. 

Sometimes flies are found in a well-screened, well-kept 
house. The smell of food draws them down chimneys where 
there are open fireplaces. 

It is said flies will not alight on frames or furniture brushed 
over with water in which three or four to a pt of onions have 
been boiled. 

Mosquitoes 

This common pest needs no description. Every one recog- 
nizes it at sight or hearing. Its habits are interesting and 
not so well known. The adult insect lives on land, feeding 
on liquid food, which it sucks up through its tongue. The 
female is obliged to lay its eggs in the water, because the 
larva and young can only exist in water, coming to the surface 
for air. If this air is cut off, they die without developing 
into mosquitoes. It, therefore, follows if we render it impos- 
jsible for them to secure this air, that we exterminate them 
easily and thoroughly. They lay their eggs on calm waters. 
Running water does not attract them. So cover the rain 
barrels, drain pools, or cover them with oil, and allow no 
breeding places anywhere. 

To discourage mosquitoes, mix equal parts of sweet oil and 
oil of thyme. Spread on paper and hang the paper in your 
room. Also rub a little on face and hands when going to bed. 
[A. A., Ga. 

To keep away mosquitoes, dip a piece of sponge or flannel 
in camphorated spirits and tie to the top of the bedstead. — 
[M. A. P., III. 

To drive out mosquitoes and gnats, when it is impossible to 
keep them out, as in the case of camping out in tents, a 
little brown sugar burned on coals is generally effective. — 
[E. M. P., Mo. 
I A bottle of oil of pennyroyal left uncorked in a room at 
night will drive out mosquitoes. — [L. E., Mich. 
I Mosquitoes dislike tobacco. A bit burned on a hot stove 
lid will often dispel them. 



40 THE HOUSEKEEPER'S REFER ENCE BOOK 

Cockroaches 

This title is applied to several species of the roach family. 
In some places they are called "water bugs," in others "black 
beetles." But whatever called, they are the most disgusting 
insects known. They spoil more food than they eat, and their 
fetid odor betrays their presence in a house, even when they 
are themselves invisible. General rules for abolishing them 
include light and sunshine freely. They are distinctly crea- 
tures of the dark and dampness, and do not like fresh air and 
sunshine. Do not leave a drop of liquid or a crumb of food 
within their reach. It will call forth an army of them. They 
often, especially the beetle specie, migrate from clean, whole- 
some homes to those more agreeable, because more dirty. 
Roaches are wary. Try new remedies when the old ones fail. 

Spread insect powder liberally over the floor of the room 
they infest. Puff it into cracks. Pill the air with it. Scatter 
it everywhere, and then close the doors and in the morning 
sweep up the powder and the roaches and burn them, — 
[E. P., Mass. 

Boil poke root until tender. Mix the water in which it 
was boiled with molasses, to the thickness of syrup, and 
spread on plates. The roaches will eat and die by scores. — ^ 
[Z. T. T., N C. 

Mix together i/^ lb powdered sugar, % lb borax and 5 cts 
worth of paris green. Puff this (with bellows) around the 
haunts of the roaches. They will speedily disappear. If you 
have children or household pets, omit the paris green (deadly 
poison), for fear of accidents. — [M. P., 111. 

Use equal parts of powdered borax, powdered sugar and 
cayenne pepper. Sprinkle this mixture on pantry or cupboard 
shelves under the paper, under the paper in drawers, along 
edges of carpet, over top of window and door casings, or any 
place the roaches are apt to frequent. If used persistently, this 
will not fail to rout them. — [B. P. H., Okla. 

Equal portions of corn meal and red lead, mixed w:ith 
molasses, and spread on plates, will destroy roaches. — [A. A. 
S., N J. 

Slices of cucumber placed generously in and around the 
haunts of roaches will banish them entirely, after three nights' 
application. — [A. A., Ga. 

Mix equal parts wheat flour, plaster of paris and powdered 
sugar. Distribute on shallow plates or boards, and place in 
corners frequented by the roaches. — [V. D., Ala. 

Put a qt of molasses sweetened water in the bottom of a 
deep, smooth, round bowl. Set it near roach retreats. Place 
a piece of carpet around it to give easy access to top. They 
will enter in crowds, but cannot get out. — [R. E., Ky. 

Make a paste of red lead, flour and water, roll out thin and 



VERMIN AND INSECT PESTS 41 

■dry into wafers. They are highly poisonous and must be kept 
out of the way of children and pets. Placed in haunts of pests, 
they eat them and die. — [A. G., Mass. 

Fleas 

Once installed in a house, these voracious mites are hard to 
exterminate. The most thorough methods must be used. Car- 
pets should be taken up, steamed, beaten and purified. Floors 
should be washed in the hottest soapsuds possible. A thin 
coat of paint on floors is useful in killing the flea and its eggs. 
All dust must be removed, as the eggs thrive best in dry, dusty 
places, and hatch in two days after being dropped. Fumiga- 
tion is an excellent way of destroying these blood-thirsty pests. 
/They are small, shiny insects, black, reddish or brown; have 
long legs, especially adapted to leaping purposes, and increase 
rapidly. From the time the egg is laid until the pupae becomes 
a full-grown adult flea is a scant forty days. Ordinary reme- 
dies are scorned by this hardy mite, clad in mail and able to 
live, if necessary, on dust, if no other food be obtainable. 
Since this pest can jump two hundred times its own stature 
and recognizes danger at a glance, it is practically impossible 
to catch and kill him. He must be dealt with otherwise. A 
flea bite poisons some people, but, though annoying by the 
intense itching it causes, it is never serious, and applications 
of salt water usually give speedy relief. The swelling resembles 
that of hives, for which it is often mistaken, but it may be 
distinguished by the fact that flea bites usually come in 
clusters of three or five, while hives are separated. 

Take air-slaked lime, fairly strong. Scatter it liberally 
over barn, cellar and house and porch floors, removing all 
coverings. Cover every foot of surface. Let it remain over 
night. Sweep up in morning and then mop up with hot 
water. When dry, sprinkle lime dust thinly over same places. 
If carpets are relaid, sprinkle them with insect powder. — 
[H. M., Mass. 

Place sticky fly paper in flea haunts. It is especially useful 
under beds and large pieces of furniture. The fleas are unable 
to extricate themselves when they jump on the paper. — • 
[S. L., Miss. 
. Spray every article in infested room with benzine, taking 
every precaution against fire and flame coming in contact 
with the fumes; both during and for some hours after the 
operation. Spray floor and corners liberally. — [R. M., Ga. 

To kill fleas in beds, spread insect powder over mattress. 
Sift it over the springs and in every crack of bedstead. Use 
it most liberally, and repeat until fleas disappear. — [L. W., N J. 

In a room infested with many fleas, a boy may catch many 
l)y wrapping a piece of fly paper about each bare leg above the 



42 THE HOUSEKEEPER'S REFER ENCE BOOK 

ankle, and walking up and down the room. They jump 
for his legs and stick to the paper. — [Mrs P., Mass. 

Fleas dislike the odor of oil of cedar, dried or green tansy, 
moth balls, oil of pennyroyal, oil of sassafras, tobacco, cam- 
phor and kerosene oil. — [B. L., Ct. 

Bed Bugs 

Powders are practically useless in getting rid of this elusive 
pest. They conceal their eggs so deeply and penetrate so far 
into concealment themselves that the faithful and persistent 
use of various liquids is the only effective remedy. Whatever 
liquid is used should be poured liberally into every suspicious 
hole or crack, or injected with a syringe or a spring bottom oil 
can. Boiling water will kill them. Kerosene oil is sure death. 
Oil of cedar is good, but more expensive. Probably the best 
way to get rid of bed bugs, if the room can be made aii* 
tight, is to fumigate it with sulphur. Take out any furniture 
likely to be injured by the fumes (especially metal), close 
windows and door, and put an oz of powdered sulphur on an 
iron pan of hot coals placed on some bricks in the middle of 
the floor. After it has burned out, paint all the cracks with 
a strong solution of corrosive sublimate and wood alcohol 
(both poisons) and carefully examine all furniture before 
replacing it. 

When papering a room where bed bugs swarm, put a cupful 
of household ammonia in the paste used, or stir in a pt of 
powdered alum. Fill every tiny hole in walls with putty. 
Leave no hiding places. — [E. T. M., Neb. 

Fill every crevice in bedstead with soap or putty and give 
wooden bedsteads a coat of varnish. Use metal beds and 
springs when possible. Shake out clothing and discard stuffed 
furniture from rooms which they infest. — [L. F., Kan. 

Mix wood varnish with turpentine, equal parts, and apply 
it to all places where bed bugs congregate. — [E. L. M., N Y. 

Mix 1 oz corrosive sublimate (poison) with 8 oz turpentine. 
Apply with brush. The bugs shun a place once coated with 
this mixture. — [F. B. H., Okla. 

Mix equal parts carbolic acid (poison) and coal oil, and 
apply with a small paint brush to each crack and crevice in 
the room, and to the bedsteads. Have the doors and windows 
open when using the preparation, or it will make you sick. 
When done close the room tightly for two days. Air well 
before using room. — [J. C. V., O. 

Put red precipitate in coal oil, and apply the mixture to 
the bedstead and crevices where bed bugs may hide, using 
a feather. — [Mrs C. S., Okla. 

To 4 oz oil of cedar add 4 oz corrosive sublimate. Use this 
in all cracks and crevices about floor, walls and bed, applying 



VERMIN AND INSECT PESTS 43 

with small paint brush or feather, or atomizer, being very care- 
ful in handling, as the preparation is a deadly poison. — • 
[Mrs C. E. S., Cal. 

Beat the white of an egg to a stiff froth, add as much quick- 
silver as it will take up, and apply with a soft brush to every 
crevice in bedstead and to the woodwork. — [Mrs S. E. K., R I. 

Mix together 7 oz turpentine, IVz oz camphor, and y^ oz 
corrosive sublimate. Apply with brush to bedsteads several 
times a week between each application. This is sure to kill 
them, but must be handled carefully, as it is a deadly poison, 
[J. L., Pa. 

Gasoline is a sure remedy for bed bugs. It will not hurt the 
finest fabric, but it is inflammable and should not be used near 
a fire, or a light, and no light should be carried into the room 
until the odor has disappeared. Take removable articles out 
and apply the liquid with a whisk broom, rag or brush. Floors 
and woodwork may be washed with gasoline. The bedstead 
and springs should be thoroughly saturated. The remedy is 
effective. No bug can survive such an application. — [E. G., la. 

Remove all furniture. Wash woodwork and walls with a 
solution made by mixing 1 tablesp carbolic acid in 2 qts water. 
Wash bedstead and springs and all wooden furniture with 
same. Fill up every nail hole and crack in the room with 
carbolized soap or putty. Whitewash ceiling. If room is 
papered, do not leave a hole in which a bug can hide, and 
put on paper with paste in which oil of sassafras has been 
dissolved. Use 1 oz to each 2 qts paste. Before returning 
bedstead, fill up every crevice with carbolic soap or putty, 
and varnish it and the springs with prepared varnish made 
by allowing V2 oz carbolic acid to every qt varnish. — [L. P., O. 



So common a plague is this four-footed pirate that he 
hardly needs description; but it is well to say that the rat is 
far more than a mere nuisance, or destroyer of property. He 
is a danger because of his traveling propensities. He goes 
from the house of disease, to carry its seeds to those in health, 
on his feet and in his mouth and excretions. Many a case of 
illness, whose cause was mysterious, has been traced to this 
filthy rodent's agency. 

Bat Poisons 

Melt 1 lb lard in a jar plunged in hot water at 150 degrees. 
Mix with it % oz phosphorus to each lb lard. Add 1 pt whiskey. 
Close the jar while at high temperature, withdraw from water; 
shake until the phosphorus is diffused. The liquid, cooled, 
will be a thick white compound. As the spirit separates, pour 



44 THE HOUSEKEEPER'S REFERENCE BOOK 

it off. It can be used for more compound. When slightly 
warmed, the mixture may be poured into another of wheat 
flour and sugar, and after mixing, be flavored with oil of 
rhodium or anise seed. Make into pellets and place in rat 
holes. Being luminous it can be easily seen, and as it is 
palatable, it will be eaten greedily, proving fatal. — [Ex. 

Mix equal parts fine plaster of paris and flour. Keep dry. 
Put the mixture near rat holes and put a vessel of water beside 
it. The rats eat and then drink. The plaster hardens and 
kills them. 

Thoroughly mix 3 lb flour, % lb powdered sugar, 2 lb 
sulphur and 2 lb phosphorus. Place in and around rat holes. 

Mix powdered nux vomica with oatmeal and lay it around 
rat haunts, out of reach of children, chickens, pets and stock. 

Cut corks as thin as wafers. Stew them in grease and 
place them in rat holes. Dried sponge bits dipped in honey 
sprinkled with oil of rhodium is said to cause them to depart. 

Buy 5 cts worth of calomel at drug store. Spread bread 
with butter, and then spread the calomel into the butter. 
Place where the rats come, also put water where they can 
drink. They will disappear in a few days. — [Mrs A. A. S., 
N J. 

A lb of moth balls, carefully distributed around the haunts 
of rats, will drive them away. — [W. H. H., Va. 

On pieces of old shingles place 1 teasp molasses, and on it 
scrape a very small amount of concentrated lye or potash. 
Put the shingle where the rats run, and the result will sur- 
prise you. — [R. M. F., Me. 

Rat Traps 

Cover a barrel with stout paper, tying the edge around the 
barrel. Tilt a board up to it, so the rats can easily reach 
the top of barrel. Place food on top for several days, until 
the rats think they are safe in going there for food. Then 
fill the barrel half full of water. Replace paper, cutting a 
cross in the center and the first rat goes through. The 
paper returns to place and many rats share his fate. 

Fill a large, deep vessel to within six inches of top with 
water, cover remaining space with bran and set near rat holes. 
Dozens have been drowned by this simple device. 

Why not keep a good cat? Or a goat? Rats are said to 
hate goats and they are known to dislike cats. 

To discourage rats, stuff rags on which cayenne pepper has 
been sprinkled into their holes. They don't like it. 

A ferret, loosened in a building infested with rats, will 
clean them out in a week or less. But look out for your 
chickens and small pets — the ferret will kill them, too, if 



VERMIN AND INSECT PESTS 45 

you don't watch out! Be sure to remove the ferret after he 
has done his work. 

Cover the floor near rat holes with a thin layer of caustic 
potash. This makes their feet sore. They lick their feet, thus 
making their mouths sore. They then shun the place. 

If rats refuse to enter traps or touch bait, pour a few drops 
of oil of rhodium on the cage top. This is said to attract them. 



Mice do great damage to property, as well as being dirty 
little nuisances. Besides the ordinary boughten traps, there 
are some good homemade ones. Try this easily made mouse 
trap. Get a shingle, or small board, a bowl and a thimble 
filled with corn meal, dampened with soap or gravy. Place 
bowl upside down on board; under the bowl's edge put the 
filled thimble, so that the bowl's edge rests on the small end 
of the thimble, the open end facing the center of the bowl. 
The mouse will creep under to eat. The slightest movement 
causes the bowl to slip, securing the mouse. Mice that shun 
others will enter this trap. — [E. H., Mass. 

Soap mixed with pepper to a paste is useful to stop up 
mice holes, or bits of cloth sprinkled freely with red pepper 
may be used. — [H. D., Mass. 

Scatter any kind of mint over shelves and in closets. The 
mice will leave. — [V. R., Tex. 

Gum camphor sprinkled around the haunts of mice will 
keep them away. — [M. H., S D. 

Bore one-inch holes two inches deep in big blocks of wood. 
At bottom of holes place poison made by mixing 1 part arsenic 
with 5 parts sweetened corn meal. Place where the mice 
can reach the poison. The blocks should be burned when 
discarded. — [L. P., Vt. 

Mix tartar emetic with any favorite food of mice. They 
eat it, become ill and die or leave. — [P. R., Tenn. 

Moths, Beetles, "Silverfish" 

The clothes moth is an insidious enemy to housewives. It 
rarely appears before May, and the "miller" seen then is the 
mother moth seeking a suitable place to deposit her eggs. 
It is the last flight she takes, as she dies soon after laying the 
eggs. Guided by instinct, the mother moth places its eggs 
where the larvae may obtain suitable food, when hatched. 
She chooses the folds, creases, wrinkles and gathers of woolen 
garments, the seams of trousers, collars, folds and underarm 
spaces of coats and dresses, and has a special liking for 
dusty, dark and greasy places. 

The eggs hatch in six days. The moth worm is whitish, 



46 THE HOUSEKEEPER'S REFERENCE BOOK 



small, with a dark head. It has sharp jaws and it begins 
to eat as soon as it has built for itself a sort of coat out of 
the material on which it came to life. It usually eats path- 
like courses, but may cut straight through the goods. As it 
increases in size, it inserts a piece to broaden its jacket 
and lengthen it also. It is seldom found outside this case, in 
which it lives. The moth dislikes strong odors, but these do 
not kill moths. They merely, sometimes, repel them. All the 
moth balls procurable are useless if the eggs are in the house. 
The worms must be sought and destroyed. 

Moth Remedies and Preventives 

Scatter insect powder freely over, in and around trunks, 
boxes and floors. Puff it into closets and close tightly for 
several hours. Spread liberally everywhere and shake some 
over the clothing. — [R. P., Mass. 

Saturate bits of sponge or blotting paper with turpentine. 
Place in trunks, drawers, between clothing, under rugs, in 
furs. It will not injure any garment and the odor evaporates 
in time. — [D. S., Ore. 

To kill moths in carpets, take a coarse towel, wring out 
in clean water, spread it smoothly over the places where the 
moths are, and iron it dry with a hot, heavy iron. A tailor's 
goose is excellent. It will not harm the carpet and will kill 
the worms. — [E. K., Mass. 

Take % oz each of ground clove and caraway seed, 1 oz 
fine salt, i/o lb lavender flowers, and V2 oz each dried mint and 
thyme. Mix well; put in cambric or silk bags. These should 
be placed among clothing likely to be troubled with moths, 
and will help to keep them away. — [F. T., N D. 

When laying woolen carpets, sprinkle the floor with turpen- 
tine and rub freely around the edges. Insect powder used 
in the same way kills the worms and helps to keep moths 
away. — [M. A. P., 111. 

If carpets become infested with moths, take them up. Beat 
well. Before relaying, mop the floor with hot water contain- 
ing 1 tablesp carbolic acid to each gal water. After floor is 
dry, sprinkle powdered borax freely along edges of base- 
boards. — [L. M. H., 111. 

Moths can be driven from upholstered work by sprinkling 
it with benzine. The benzine is put in a small watering pot, 
such as is used in sprinkling house plants; it does not spot 
the most delicate fabric, and the unpleasant odor passes off 
in an hour or two in the air. Care must be used not to carry 
on this work near a fire or flame, as the vapor of benzine 
is very inflammable. If a little spirits of turpentine is added 
to the water with which floors are washed, it will prevent the 
ravages of moths. — [J. B., Kan. 



VERMIN AND INSECT PESTS 47 

Thoroughly wet the floor around the edge of the room with 
spirits of turpentine. Apply with a brush as you would paint. 
It kills the moth eggs under the base. Salt sprinkled freely 
about the edge and over the entire carpet, while sweeping, 
is also hard on moths. — [H. H., O. 

To kill moths in carpets sprinkle floor thickly with tobacco 
near the edges of carpet. Put lots of it around mop-boards. 
EE. M. T., Kan. 

When a house is closed for any time, pans of water left 
in the center of floors will catch moths and other insects. 
Evaporation can be prevented by spraying a thin coating of 
sweet oil over the surface. — [R. S., Vt. 

To fumigate clothes for moths, shake out all clothing so 
that the fumes may enter them freely. Place either a sulphur 
candle or a cupful of sulphur on hot coals in an iron pan, 
standing on bricks in center of room. Close room tightly 
and do not open for several hours, when the moths will be 
dead. — [D. P., Me. 

Beetles and Buffalo Bugs 

At the risk of killing some innocent beetle, it is yet best 
to destroy all sorts found in the house, where they are super- 
fluous. The latest discovered beetle was found in Buffalo, in 
1872. Hence its name. The buffalo bug is tenacious of life, 
prefers wool, but will eat silk, carpets and books. The com- 
mon species is covered on the back with tiny scales and has 
a stripe down the center, which widens along its path into 
three distinct spots. The young are very vigorous, voracious 
and present a hairy appearance, because usually covered with 
the fuzz of the material they are eating. The larvse are espe- 
cially fond of carpets, which they eat from the under side, thus 
often defying detection until the carpet is a ruin. It is often 
found in silk umbrellas and will spoil silk waists and coats 
in an incredibly short time. It has but one good point. It 
confines its depredations to the summer months, while its 
detested brother, the smooth, black beetle, works equally well 
in all seasons. The larvse of this pest is light brown with a nar- 
row body. When you bring flowers into the house, be careful 
that there are no buffalo bugs on them. They are often 
brought into houses in this way and are especially fond of 
tulips. — [B. P., Ct. 

Silverfish 

While not a beetle, these creatures may be exterminated by 
similar methods to those used for moths and beetles. It is 
popularly known as the "silverfish," or "fish moth," and 
"shiner." It is a smooth, slender insect, wingless and worm- 



48 THE HOUSEKEEPER'S REFERENCE BOOK 

like, with two long antennae on its head. It is found in old 
houses, in attics and closets, and has a good appetite for lace 
curtains, cotton shades, books, and all starched goods. It 
does its largest damage in houses closed for any length of 
time. They are especially susceptible to insect powder, 
which should be used freely around their haunts. The same 
remedies used for moths apply to all beetles and to silverfish, 
but must be more persistently applied, because they are so 
tenacious of life. 

Get 5 cts worth of carbolic acid at the drug store. Put 
it in a sewing machine oil can, and run it along in all the 
cracks of the floor, and you will soon get rid of buffalo 
bugs. It does not stain. — [Mrs A. S., N J. 

Mix 2 oz oil of red cedar with 1 qt turpentine. The turpen- 
tine cuts the oil so that it will not spot. Sprinkle in and 
around haunts of moths and beetles. — [C. B., N H. 

If uncertain as to whether all moths have been destroyed 
or not, try hanging a strip of woolen goods in closets where 
their presence is suspected. Moths like red or white flannel, 
and when they enter it, it should be burned at once and the 
moth crusade resumed. — [P. K., Wis. 

House Plant Pests 

Housecleaning is as necessary in the care of plants as in the 
care of a house. Every faded leaf and flower should be care- 
fully removed daily. The stands, pots and leaves should be 
kept clean and sweet, free from dust and dirt. Plants, to 
thrive, must have fresh air, sunshine and room to expand. 
An even warmth of about 60 degrees in the daytime, never 
lowering beyond 48 degrees at night, and this gradually, will 
carry all but the most delicate plants through the winter. 
Plants have their insect enemies, the principal ones being lice, 
red spiders and worms. 

To kill plant lice shave % lb pure, hard soap, and dissolve 
it in 1 pt hot water. Stir it into 4 gals water and spray on 
wash plants with it. — [E. E. R., Me. 

Sprinkle a tablespoonful fine cut tobacco over infested plant 
and spray it with tepid water. Let the mixture soak into the 
earth around plants. — [R. P., Mass. 

To rid plants of red spiders, frequent washing with tepid 
water is excellent, and also the use of lice remedies. 

For worms in plant soil, dissolve a piece of fresh lime, size 
of a lemon, in 5 gals water. Saturate the soil freely with 
this mixture. Discard the sediment. — [R. O. D., N J. 

Sprinkle fine cut smoking tobacco over the earth in pots. 
Pour clear water on this slowly, letting it drain down to the 
bottom of pots. Sometimes worms come to the top, again 
they die, and may be easily removed. — [M. C, Cal. 



VERMIN AND INSECT PESTS 



Spiders 

The presence of spiders in a house indicates that flies are 
also there. There are few spiders in flyless homes. Such 
as remain may be readily removed with broom or brush, and 
if no food in way of insects is allowed in the house, they 
will not return. 

Ants 

However interesting ants may be to entomologists, to the 
housewife they are a pesky pest. The most common specie is 
the tiny red ant which infests pantries and kitchens in great 
numbers. These live in the house. They are domesticated. 
They have searching members who are constantly looking 
for supplies. When they find the food, carelessly or acci- 
dentally left in available places by housewives, they carry the 
news to their colony. The workers there sally forth to feed 
and forage, and soon the housekeeper finds her closets swarm- 
ing with the insects. The large, black ant is an outdoor crea- 
ture. Their nests will be found under stones and in holes and 
must be destroyed to afford permanent relief. Black ants 
have a strong appetite for sweets, and some form of sugar 
makes a good bait for them. 

Whenever possible, trace these insects to headquarters. Find 
their nest. It may be in the house or in the ground. Saturate 
it with kerosene, or boiling water, or use strong tobacco water. 
If in the ground, drop some quicklime in the mouth of the 
nest and wash it down with hot water. Ants dislike strong 
scents. Try sprinkling infested spots with oil of pennyroyal. 
Scatter powdered clove or camphor around their haunts. The 
odor of tar, wormwood leaves, or tansy, will often scatter them. 
So will oil of sassafras and raw, sliced onions. Oil of cedar 
poured on cotton batting and placed where ants congregate is 
a simple remedy and the same may be said of the use of 
green cracked walnuts, similarly placed. 

Sprinkle a sponge with sugar. Lay it on the shelf ants fre- 
quent. Next day plunge it in boiling water to kill the ants it 
has collected, and then set it again. — [E. T., N Y. 

Cover plates with a thin coat of lard. Set them in infested 
spots. Place bits of wood at the sides for the ants to climb 
up on. When full of insects drop them in a pan of boiling 
water. — [E. P., Mass. 

A few drops of paregoric in sweetened water will attract 
and kill ants. Put it in a shallow dish. — [M. T. R., O. 

Ants dislike sulphur. Put small bags of it in infested places, 
or with bellows puff it into cracks and crevices. Also scatter 
it on closet shelves. — [B. E., Wis. 



50 THE HOUSEKEEPER'S REFERENCE BOOK 

Equal parts of borax and sugar will scatter and kill ants. 
[M. B. A., N H. 

Boil 1 lb alum in 2 qts water. Apply with a brush or swab 
to all places where ants congregate. — [E. K., Mass. 

Cut small squares of wood from an old cigar box. Cut 
sticky fly paper same size and tack on the wood. Put a com- 
pleted "trap" under each leg of table or infested ice box, to 
keep the ants from crawling up. — [A. G., Mass, 

Make rings of borax and plaster of paris around each leg 
of table or ice chest. The ants will not pass it. If they eat 
it, they will die. — [E. P., Mass. 

Fill 4 tin cups half full of a solution of carbolic acid and 
water or kerosene oil. Set each leg of table or chest in a 
cup Ants climbing will be killed. — [A. A., Ga. 

An oz of oil of sassafras applied with a cloth to every spot 
infested by ants will exterminate them. Pour a little down 
the cracks of the floor. — [G. B. S., Mass. 

Mix equal parts of carbolic acid and water. Apply with 
brush to edges of shelves, legs of tables, corners of rooms 
and wherever ants are found. It will scatter them. — 
[E. P., Mass. 

Idee 

The most cleanly kept child may contract lice. An adult 
is also in more or less danger of an assault from these crea- 
tures, as they travel rapidly from the unclean body to the clean 
one, and multiply so secretly and so swiftly that one's head 
is infested before the presence of the pest is suspected. Care 
and the use of simple remedies will soon rid one of the small 
torments. 

Cocculus Indicus is an inodorous, almost tasteless berry 
found in India, and imported here for medical uses. It can 
be procured at most druggists' for use in the formulas 
appended. If the fruit is not obtainable, a tincture may be 
substituted. Cocculus Indicus is a poison. A decoction con- 
taining it should be properly labeled and kept from reach of 
children. 

One of the most effectual remedies for vermin in the hair 
is Cocculus Indicus. It is poisonous when taken internally. 
Have the druggist fill a pint bottle half full of the berries and 
then fill up with whiskey. Moisten the scalp thoroughly at 
night, and in the morning wash the hair in tepid water. This 
will kill both lice and nits; it will not harm the hair, and 
two or three applications are enough. — [F. E. F., O. 

Alcohol and coal oil are a standard remedy. Mix in equal 
quantities and apply freely, being careful not to get any in the 
patient's eyes. Follow by a pure soap shampoo the next day, 
and rinse thoroughly. — [P. T., Ore. 



VERMIN AND INSECT PESTS 51 

Comb the hair with a fine-tooth comb. This removes adult 
vermin. Apply lard or vaseline to roots of hair and scalp. 
Repeat in a day, comb again, and wash with soap and water 
in equal parts. — [Edith P., Mass. 

Dissolve in 14 pt alcohol as much gum camphor as it will 
take up. Rub this mixture well into the roots of hair and 
over scalp, wetting the hair, if long. Comb out with fine-tooth 
comb. Repeat if necessary. — [T. K., Mass. 

Use a good shampoo of soap and water, rinse thoroughly, 
then apply a mixture, obtainable at drug store, of 2% grs 
bichloride mercury and 1 oz aromatic acetic acid. — [O. R., La. 

After an application which kills the vermin and eggs, comb 
well, wash out all remaining ointments, and finally wash 
with equal parts vinegar and water. This removes clinging 
nits. — [J. T., 111. 

Two oz tincture of larkspur, procured at a drug store, will 
usually permit of two applications. Rub well into scalp with 
fingers and leave on over night. Then wash the head and 
apply a second time^ if necessary. — [A. F., Mass. 

Mix 2 oz powdered sulphur with I cup lard. Rub with 
fingers well over scalp. Let it remain several hours. Comb 
out first, then wash with warm soap and water, and rinse 
thoroughly. — [E. W., Mass. 

It is often hard to remove tiny lice with a comb. Rub 
vaseline, lard or grease of any kind on the comb. They stick 
to it and are then easily removed. — [B, L., Va. 



Sings and Snails 

These are, naturally, out-of-door pests, but are sometimes 
found in cellars and kitchens. Being slow of movement, they 
are easily caught and removed. They dislike salt and quick- 
lime or chlorate of lime, and avoid spots sprinkled well with 
either powder. Once removed, applications of this will keep 
them away. Dryness and light are also disliked by them. If 
the cellars and kitchens are kept dry and well ventilated and 
lighted, they seldom infest them. 



To Protect Fruit from Birds 

Take some brown thread, fasten the end of it to one of the 
twigs of the tree or bush, and then cross the thread backward 
from twig to twig in a dozen different directions and fasten. 
The birds will come boldly to settle on the trees, and when 
they strike these to them invisible snares, they will fiy off in 
a terrible hurry, not to return again to that particular tree 
or bush. 



52 THE HOUSEKEEPER'S REFERENCE BOOK 



Pop Additional Memopandal 




The Qare of Pets 

How to Maintain Health and Cure Sickness 

HE law to be regarded in our guardianship 
of the brute creation is, emphatically, the 
law of love. This does not mean weak 
dealing with them. A firm discipline, pro- 
ducing excellent results, may be so tem- 
pered with kindly consideration that the 
animals will respond and obey with pleas- 
ure and alacrity. They will like to obey, 
because they instinctively recognize the 
justice of their masters. Animals usually possess a like 
character with their owners, especially when they have 
been in one master's care all their lives. The gentle 
master will own gentle animals that will love to work 
for him. The other possesses animals that grudgingly 
respond to all his orders because they have to. If only 
for selfish reasons, kindness to animals should be always 
practiced. The efficacy of the soothing touch and word 
to a frightened or stubborn beast has only to be tried 
to be appreciated. A pleasant word, an encouraging 
caress, bring forth better results, in the long run, than 
are ever reached by the harsh command and the sting- 
ing blow. It pays to be kind. The dumb creatures are 
placed in our hands to minister to our comfort and our 
pleasure and the least we can render in return is to treat 
them wisely, lovingly and tactfully. Often wrong treat- 
ment is given through ignorance of their needs and how 
to meet them. That is a situation easily remedied, es- 
pecially in the case of house animals or pets of any kind. 
It is hoped that the following paragraphs will be found 
helpful as well as interesting. 



54 THE HOUSEKEEPE R'S! REFERENCE BOOK 

noGs 

The dog is man's most faithful ally, servant and friend. He 
is almost the only animal which, besides giving to his owner 
loyal and useful service, unites with this a loving attachment, 
and sincere affection, deep and true. Proverbially ungrateful 
as man is, he cannot, usually, help returning some fraction of 
this wealth of love, and therefore man and dog are often 
comrades, rather than master and servant. 

The Care of Dogs 

Cleanliness is essential. Short haired dogs do not need 
washing very often, and when it is done, a pure, non-irritant 
soap and tepid water should be used. A comb and brush give 
a good, dry cleaning and can be used profitably several times 
a week. Long-haired dogs, especially house pets, such as 
poodles, terriers and the like, need bathing often. Such dogs, 
left unwashed, often contract disagreeable odors and become 
alive with fleas. Every vestige of soap should be removed 
or the dog will be uncomfortable and refuse to lick himself. 
A robust dog often enjoys and is better for a plunge and 
swim, but no dog should be thrown into a pond or pool, if he 
evinces a dislike for it. It destroys his spirit. 

The dog needs a clean and comfortable bed and kennel. 
The latter should be dry and warm, in a sheltered situation 
and raised a little from the ground, to insure dryness. Damp- 
ness is dangerous to his health. If the dog is chained, be 
sure to give him shade, into which he may retire when he 
chooses. Unless absolutely necessary, do not chain a dog at 
all. The happiest dog and the healthiest is the one who runs 
at large, exercising his muscles, enjoying to the full his short 
life. If he must be fastened, to give him certain daily exercise 
is a moral obligation, and no dog will live long or happily 
without seasons of such freedom. Also, he must have grass 
to eat when he wants it. 

Plenty of pure, cool water is a necessity. It is cruel to 
overfeed a dog. Equally so to underfeed him. Either extreme 
must be avoided. Young puppies need more than adult dogs. 
They should be fed six times daily, reducing gradually the 
number of meals as the puppy grows. They may be given 
bread and milk, boiled rice and milk, oatmeal porridge, boiled 
dog biscuit, and lamb broth in which bread or rice is soaked. 
The adult dog should have a regular time for feeding. Don't 
expect him to forage for himself. Don't limit his diet to 
chance scraps, although these, from his master's table, may 
be given him at a regular mealtime, with other food. Once 
a day is often enough to feed a dog — preferably in the morn- 
Jng, or at noon, if he is a watch dog. Give all he will eat 



THE CARE OF PETS 55 

with relish, but do not leave food around for him to return 
to, or he will overeat. Don't give raw meat to a dog. It 
makes him cross and causes disagreeable odors. Don't give a 
dog warm, burnt, smoked or tainted food. He may occa- 
sionally have cold, coarse, boiled meat, otherwise dog biscuit, 
crackers, bread, table scraps, and he will delight in a good 
bone. Gnawing a bone keeps a dog's teeth in order. 

Fleas are a source of misery to a dog. They should be 
exterminated. A small dog may be given an insect powder 
bath, by placing him in a bag with a cupful of insect powder. 
Tie the bag around his neck so that it will not choke him, 
and let his head protrude. He will tumble around and 
thoroughly dust himself. Kerosene oil can be safely rubbed 
into a dog's coat and will kill vermin, but makes the dog 
smell bad for a while. To wet the dog down with clear, 
tepid water and comb out the fleas is as good a way as any 
to get rid of them. After the dog'.s body is free of the pests, 
cleanse the kennel. Sluice it with boiling water and spray 
with disinfectant. The odor will soon evaporate. 

How to Administer Medicine to Dogs 

If it is a liquid, stand in front of the dog and pull away 
the skin of the cheek from the teeth, making a natural funnel, 
through which pour medicine. Don't let him shake his head 
before swallowing. Have someone hold the dog if it is neces- 
sary. Don't force his mouth open. It is unnecessary. If the 
dog is large or hard to manage, let a helper sit down and 
take the dog between his legs, holding him with knees and 
keeping the dog's head up with his hands. Give pills and 
powders by forcing the mouth open and dropping them far 
back in the mouth. Or, wrap the stuff in a piece of meat. 
Give the patient two or three pieces first, and then follow 
with the doctored bit. 

Diseases of Dogs 

The sick dog needs, first, care and quiet. He should be given 
a cool, quiet and comfortable place, and all symptoms should 
be carefully noted. When the disease is decided, treat him 
according to directions given, and be gentle and firm in all 
actions. 

Indigestion 

From this disease arise many ills. It is the primal cause of 
Other complaints, and should never be neglected. Its principal 
symptom is a dislike for natural, wholesome food, and a crav- 
ing for sweetened and spiced kinds, with an abnormal appe- 



56 THE HOUSEKEEPER'S REFERENCE BOOK 

tite for trash, such as paper, wood, strings and cloth. Diet 
the dog on plain food in small quantities. The trouble is 
caused by overeating or improper food. 

Distemper 

Distemper is characterized by a discharge from nose and 
eyes, great lassitude, disinclination to play, exercise or move, 
loss of appetite, fever, a short, dry cough, sneezing and low- 
spirits ; the bowels are always deranged, sometimes relaxed, 
again constipated; the urine is scanty and high-colored, and 
a dangerous symptom is the swift loss of flesh. The disease 
lasts six weeks, sometimes longer, and is often followed by 
complications, as in scarlet fever among human beings. Feed 
good, strengthening beef tea, fresh milk, mutton and lamb 
broth, oatmeal porridge, and allow plenty of clear, cold water. 
All broths must be skimmed of all fat and every bit of food 
be cold. A tonic pill to be given three times daily for a 
week in any stage of the disease is: Two scruples disulphate 
quinine, 2 scruples sulphate of iron, 4 drams extract of 
gentian, and 1 oz powdered quassia. Mix into 15 pills. For 
the catarrh, blow powdered sulphur into the animal's nostrils, 
by means of a quill, or have the animal inhale fumes of 
burning sulphur for five minutes each day. 

Worms 

Worms cause offensive breath, uncertain appetite, diarrhea, 
fever, fits and an annoying itching, to cure which the dog 
often drags himself on the ground. Any worm cure used for 
children is good for dogs. An adult dog must not have 
food for 24 hours after giving the medicine, and should then, 
before feeding, be given a wine glass of olive oil, to cause 
evacuation of worms. Then feed lightly. Allow water. 

Rheumatism 

The exposure of a dog to cold and wet or a damp kennel 
brings on this distressing complaint. He may have rheu- 
matic fever, even. In this, the dog shrinks from every touch, 
however kindly. He will have a low fever and retire to some 
dark corner, if he can find one. Don't pat or stroke him. 
It causes anguish. Speak gently and don't be angry if he 
snaps and snarls. He is not responsible while in torture. He 
is constipated and the urine is scanty and high-colored. If 
he is fat and gross, a slight bleeding by clipping of the ear 
may help. Otherwise, try' a dose of physic — castor oil or 
tincture of rhubarb. A strong, large dog may have 2 table- 
spoonfuls, a small dog, half the quantity. Keep the dog in 



THE CARE OF PETS 57 

a dry, warm place. Much the same treatment may be used 
for any form of rheumatism, with the addition of local appli- 
cation of this liniment: Mix Vz oz each of spirit of turpen- 
tine, liquor of -ammonia, and laudanum. Shake well and rub 
in on affected parts. Don't urge exercise. Let the dog rest. 

Fits 

Don't mistake fits for hydrophobia and kill the victim. 
The dog is usually seized suddenly with fits, while hydropho- 
bia gives a long warning of its approach. In fits, the creature 
suddenly halts, looks around dazedly, and then drops on its 
side, emitting a peculiar cry. His limbs become rigid, then 
relax; he kicks and twitches violently, and foam falls from 
his mouth. He needs care, but must be handled gingerly, 
as he will snap. As soon as he is able to stand, he runs home, 
often snapping at persons in his path. He should be kept in 
a quiet place, given little to eat and plenty to drink. Some- 
times slightly bleeding the dog by making i/4-inch cuts in 
the tips of his ears, and bathing the cuts with warm water, 
will afford relief. Use sharp, pointed scissors, and wear gloves. 

Diseases of Mouth or Teeth 

Some dogs loose their teeth early and suffer from spongy 
gums and tartar collections. The dog seems cross and snap- 
pish and is made so by suffering. Examine the dog's teeth 
occasionally. If any are decayed, extract them, or have it 
done by a veterinary. Wash the mouth occasionally with a 
lotion composed of two parts tincture of myrrh and 6 parts 
water. Don't neglect this. Sometimes canker or watery 
swellings appear in mouth or under tongue. Lance the swell- 
ings and use the lotion for both these ailments or any kind 
of mouth sore. 

Paralysis 

This is a result of overfeeding. The dog flounders around, 
dragging his hind parts, which seem benumbed. Administer 
a cathartic pill or a tablespoon of castor oil on alternate 
days for 8 days, and diet the sufferer. A full-grown dog 
need only be fed a reasonably good meal once a day. He 
should have bones occasionally and clean water at all times. 

Hydrophobia 

It is said that this terrible disease is never spontaneous, 
but must be communicated from one animal to another. If 
one is positive that his dog has no bite or scratch, even the 



58 THE HOUSEKEEPE R'S REFERENCE BOOK 

tiniest, from any other dog, it is reasonably sure he has not 
this disease, even if he has some of its symptoms. Yet the 
symptoms are so clear that anyone may know the complaint, 
and it must be remembered that the slightest hidden scratch 
may mean innoculation. 

The dog with hydrophobia is ill long before the crisis of 
the disease. He is snappish, cross and changed from his 
ordinary self. He seeks solitude. The sun troubles him. 
It makes his head ache. To ease pain he finds dark holes 
and corners, and stays in them during the early stages of the 
trouble. His appetite changes; he craves unnatural sub- 
stances, and, in an attempt to ease the torture of his burning, 
inflamed stomach, he eats all sorts of things — tar, stones, 
shavings, dung, hair and straw. Then comes a restlessness 
only stilled, temporarily, by travel. He takes long journeys, 
moving in a slouching half trot. His air is dejected, his eyes 
dull, his parched tongue hangs from his mouth, from which, 
contrary to the popular idea, there drops no foam. His course 
is crooked. At times he cannot see. He does not go out 
of his course to bite — indeed, he would gladly pass, unmo- 
lested and unmolesting, if he could. But he is very sick. A 
deadly disease grasps him. He bites at anything in his way, 
just as a man, gripped with a terrible, torturing illn,ess, might 
strike at opposing forces. If not slain while on such a jaunt, 
he will return home. Thirst increases as the disease develops. 
He craves water, longs for it, but cannot swallow. Then he 
has spasms of rage. His suffering is pitiable. He knows 
nothing, recognizes no one. He tears to pieces everything 
within reach. The noise he makes in this final stage is 
unmistakable. It starts as a bark, changing to a short, stifled 
howl, and soon relief comes in a merciful death. 

The disease is incurable. As soon as it is correctly diag- 
nosed, kill the dog in some humane manner. Chloroform on 
a sponge at the end of a stick may be used, or a good marks- 
man can send a merciful bullet into the creature's brain. 

For Mange 

A soap made purposely for this disease may be bought at 
druggists'. The kennel should be disinfected by burning sul- 
phur in it. Change bedding frequently and keep the kennel 
warm, dry and well ventilated. 

For Sore Eyes, Ears or Mouth 

Wash eyes with boracic acid solution, one teaspoon to four 
of water. Use also in mouth or ears. For sore ears and 
mouth, use alum water as a wash, one teaspoon powdered 
alum to six of water. 



THE CARE OF PETS 59 

Poison 

Give an emetic as soon as possible. A generous dose of 
lukewarm, slightly salted water will do; a good dose of sweet 
oil or melted lard is better. If the nature of the poison can be 
ascertained, the same antidote can be used that would be 
given a person, remembering the general rule that alkalies 
neutralize acids, and vice-versa. As a general rule, where no 
knowledge of the nature of the poison is known, milk may be 
administered and followed by raw eggs. After such a trouble 
the dog needs rest and quiet. 

Pointers 

Remember, the dog who has real hydrophobia does drink, 
or try to. He is wild for water, but often cannot swallow. 

It is not the mad dog that froths at the mouth. It is the 
dog in a fit. 

The dog that is often beaten becomes a cringing brute. His 
slinking ways tell what kind of a master he has. 

If you swear at your dog, don't be surprised if he snaps or 
growls at you. That's his only way of talking back. 

Never let an animal suffer for want of fresh, clear water. 

Love me, love my dog. 

"The more I see of dogs and mankind, the better I love 
dogs." 



GTiTS 

The cat is emphatically man's most domestic animal. The 
fireplace which lacks a purring pussy reposing peacefully 
thereon seems strangely bereft. Whatever may be said of 
the cat's admitted independence, it cannot be denied that she 
Is intelligent, pretty and reciprocates human affection. 
Famous characters in ages past, by the scores, have owned and 
loved cats. Coming down to modern days it may interest 
some to learn that the government at Washington carries on 
its pay roll over 1000 cats that are cared for because they 
guard mail matter from rats and mice. At a recent cat show 
in New York city, two cats, valued at $1000 each, were 
exhibited. The trade in well-bred cats is increasing yearly. 

Care of the Cat 

The cat is the cleanest and daintiest of animals, and its 
assiduous attempts at cleanliness should induce every owner 
of such animals to provide them with clean food, clean 



60 THE HOUSEKEEPER'S REFERENCE BOOK 

dishes to eat from, and clean beds to sleep on. They need 
food at least twice a day, morning and evening. A small mid- 
day meal will not harm them, if of proper material. For 
breakfast, bread and milk; for dinner, a small dish of meat, 
and at night, bread or oatmeal and milk, with perhaps a little 
meat. They should have fresh fish once in a while, and are 
very fond of liver and kidneys, which are good for them. 
Raw meat will not harm them, if it is perfectly sweet and 
is not fed too often or in too large pieces or quantities. 
Cats are often fond of vegetables. They may be allowed to 
eat in moderation of any kind they like. Fresh water should 
be always accessible, and they need much milk. 

One of nature's aids to digestion is grass, which every cat 
craves and which is necessary for their health. Catnip, dried 
or green, is a strong-scented perennial plant with medicinal 
properties. Cats love it and eat and roll on it with mad 
delight. Some should be given them often as a tonic, and 
to make them happy. The cat responds to kind treatment and 
loving care in a high degree. It becomes, under harsh and 
unkind rule, a timid, wild, shrinking creature, slinking along 
as if fearing a blow, and betraying in every movement that it 
is an abused animal. It needs considerate treatment, and 
under it is a beautiful, affectionate companion. Hungry or 
starved cats do not make good mousers. They are then too 
restless and miserable to watch patiently for mice, as well- 
fed cats will. 

To Give a Cat Medicine 

Put the cat in a bag with drawing strings. Tie loosely 
around the neck, leaving head out. Take the cat between 
your knees, or have some one hold it. Procure stout gloves 
to protect your hands. Open its mouth and lay a meat skewer 
or penholder across its jaws just beyond the eye teeth. Pour 
the medicine down the cat's throat. Give no more than can 
be easily swallowed, then remove the stick and hold head up 
until pussy swallows. Wipe off any smears, as the cat will 
not, and is thus made miserable. This will frighten the cat 
and must be as gently done as possible. Do not feed for at 
least two hours. 

Disease Remedies — ^Fits 

A terrifying trouble is this one. The cat rushes here and 
there wildly, with staring eyes and upright fur, finally seek- 
ing refuge in some dark corner. These fits rarely bother the 
adult cat. They are caused by worms, indigestion, blows or 
overheating the brain. Another kind of fit is that which 
resembles an apoplectic attack. The cat, usually adult, does 



^ THE CARE OF PETS 61 

not run, but falls over, is in apparent distress, and becomes 
more or less unconscious. In either case, a method which 
gives relief is to slightly slit one or both of the cat's ears in 
its thinnest part. The slit should be done with sharp, pointed 
scissors and should not be over % inch in length. A few 
drops of blood ensue and the cat is thus relieved. The running 
fits cease as the cat grows older. Particular care to diet 
should be given, and if worms are suspected, give % teasp 
castor oil. 

Diarrhea 

The victim loses flesh, is untidy and dull-eyed. Give 1 oz 
fresh mutton suet melted in ^4 pt hot, new milk. If the 
cat will not lap it, put I or 2 spoonfuls in its mouth every 
two hours. In severe cases of long standing give a spoonful 
of chalk mixture, procurable at any drug store, with 8 drops 
of tincture of rhubarb in it, three times a day. Once a day, 
give 2 drops laudanum. 

When Cats Are Poisoned 

The same general rules given for dogs may be followed for 
cats. A general tonic after such an experience is flour of 
sulphur mixed with lard — 1 part sulphur to 3 of lard. Smear 
it on the cat's paws. She will lick it off at her leisure. 

Cold and Catarrh 

Cats are very sensitive to dampness and cold, running, if 
neglected, into bronchitis, and even pneumonia is not unknown. 
When the cat neglects its toilet, refuses food or seems torpid, 
it is probably a cold. Administer a teaspoon castor oil, and 
give it a warm, secluded, dry bed. Use sulphur and lard, 
mixed in equal parts, for catarrhal cold. Let the cat lick it off 
her paws. Feed her warm milk often, and in severe cases 
give her pure cod liver oil, until recovered. 

Sores in Ears 

When a cat jumps up from sleep, shakes its head and digs 
at its ears with its paws, it probably has sores in its ears. 
Pour a little diluted hydrogen peroxide down them, or inject 
it from an eyedropper. There is a mite which burrows to 
the ear drum and makes pussy deaf. To avoid this, wash 
ears often with borax water. 

Hair Balls in Stomach 

The cat is often made ill or killed by the collection of hair 
in its stomach. It swallows this while licking itself, and 



62 THE HOUSEKEEPER'Si REFERENCE BOOK 

when it remains undigested it gathers in balls or rolls, and 
causes illness. The cat should be given all the grass it 
chooses to eat, as this causes an ejection of the plague. Long- 
haired cats are especially liable to this trouble. Plant grass 
seed in boxes, for the winter, or let the cat eat from "umbrella 
plants." 

Cat Lore 

Petrarch had his favorite cat embalmed and kept it in a 
niche in his room. 

Cardinal Wolsey's pet cat sat beside him while he held 
converse with princes. 

Remember Dick Whittington, whose cat made him mayor 
of London? 

The cat inclines to C's. It loves Cleanliness, Care and 
Comfort. 



QTINTIRIBS 



The first consideration is the cage. It should be roomy, 
simple in construction, and easily cleaned. Have several 
perches of plain, unvarnished wood, of varied thicknesses. 
Have a small .swing at the top of cage. If the bird scatters 
his seed, make a cover of thin gauze. Gather fullness below 
to a center and tie with ribbon. Empty when desirable. 

The location of the cage is worth thought. Draughts, over- 
heating and chilliness are all to be guarded against. In 
warm weather, near a high, sunny window, where plenty of 
fresh, cool air blows about the bird, is an ideal place. In 
cold weather, a canary should not be near windows, where 
drafts are always present. But it needs sunshine and should 
have it, furnishing some shade in the cage for it to retire to 
when it wishes. Remember that in winter the air near the 
ceiling is often very hot, and do not hang the bird too high. 
If it is kept too warm, it will droop, molt and die. An even 
temperature should be maintained. It should not be over 
70 degrees. If there is any danger of a sudden drop after 
the bird is left for the night, cover the cage with some warm 
material, leaving an air hole open on one side. Next comes 
the care of the cage. Absolute cleanliness must rule. The 
cage should be cleansed every day. Twice a week dip the, 
perches in boiling water, to kill any possible vermin. Lice 
will sometimes cling to the inside roof of the cage. Lookl 
for them daily, as they increase swiftly. 

Every morning permit a bath in a sunny situation, free 
from draft and disturbance. Strew bottom of cage with fine 



THE CARE OF PETS 63 

gravel or sand. It is necessary to the bird's health. Give 
fresh water daily, twice a day in summer. Canaries need 
abundant and good food. A mixture of summer rape and 
canary seed is the best. It comes from Germany. If it cannot 
be obtained, a fair substitute is the prepared food always to 
be found in packages at all provision stores. Give fresh seed 
every morning, removing shells of that used previously. Birds 
need a variety of food besides this, which is their natural 
nutriment. Chickweed, fresh lettuce leaves, plantain leaves 
and seeds, a bit of tender cabbage now and then, will be 
relished. Avoid acid fruits, but give a piece of sweet apple 
or pear occasionally. While the bird needs a varied and 
generous diet, he must not be overfed and allowed to grow 
too fat. Observe the effect of his food, and regulate the bill 
of fare accordingly. A fertile cause of illness is poor or stale 
seed. If the bird droops, try seed from some other locality, 
and note its effect before giving medicine. Poor, stale or 
musty food causes disease. 

Remember, a bird's day is from sunrise to sunset, and it is 
best to see that there is some food left in his cage at night. A 
few hours' wait in the morning harms a bird. It should find 
food as early as it desires it for his breakfast. Attend also 
carefully to the water cups. The canary often scatters his 
water and it should be carefully replenished. See that at 
night there is enough for him to use until you arise. He 
is an early bird. 

A paste, good for young as well as old birds, is made by 
bruising with rolling pin a pint of rape seed, blowing away 
husks, and adding slices of dried bread. Reduce both to 
powder and mix. Make a small quantity daily into paste with 
a few drops of water, and add a spoonful of hard yolk of 
egg. Give this to young birds. Feed dry to old ones. The 
powder spoils in a week. It should not be kept longer. 



Molting 

This is a trying season for both bird and owner. The 
canary needs much care and a generous diet to help him 
Bafely through. Constant watchfulness must be exercised 
to prevent the taking of colds. If the feathers do not readily 
come through, a slight application of warm castor oil by the 
fingers may improve matters. Feed generously. Do not 
expect the bird to sing or be sprightly. Place a rusty nail 
in his drinking cup. Sometimes a little fat salt pork is 
relished, or a lump of sugar, or some red pepper mixed 
with hard-boiled egg, chopped fine. 



64 THE HOUSEKEEPER'S REFERENCE BOOK 

Asthma 

This is a common disease. The birds breathe shortly, open 
their beaks in a gasping way, and evince distress for breath. 
It is easily distinguished. It is caused by bad air, bad food, 
and sometimes by fright, which causes a sudden loss of breath 
or rupture of some tiny blood vessel in lungs. To cure, give 
plenty of fresh air, avoiding drafts. Change the food. A 
paste which has proven efficacious is made by boiling a piece 
of white bread, size of an egg, in a cup of fresh milk, stirring 
It with a wooden spoon until it is of the consistency of pulp. 
In violent attacks, feed this paste two days. For slight 
attacks, give the paste once in three days. Allow no hemp 
seed. Use rape seed entirely, and be sure it is fresh and 
wholesome. Give some green food, lettuce or watercress, or 
chickweed. With general good care the bird will recover. 

Atrophy or Wasting Away 

The bird's digestion is troubled here, either by overfeeding 
or unnatural or poor food. He disgorges, ruffles his feathers, 
becomes slovenly and thin. Often the bird has an abnormally 
great appetite. Green food is a remedy. Give it liberally. 
Be sure its usual food is pure, and decrease it until the bird 
is cured. Put a rusty nail in the drinking water. 

Constipation 

The symptoms are uneasiness and unsuccessful attempts at 
relief. Give 3 drops castor oil in teaspoon sweetened water. 
Repeat, with larger dose, if ineffective. Green food is desir- 
able, and anointing the vent with sweet oil relieves suffering 
caused by straining. 

Diarrhea 

Change of food, overeating, and impure food causes this 
disease. Boiled bread and milk is a good food to try in such 
cases. Mix y^. teasp powdered chalk, i^ teasp ground rhu- 
barb, and Vz teasp ground ginger. Mix it with seed and 
feed. A teasp chalybeate water, mixed with 6 teasp warm 
milk may be used as a drink. It has been known to cure 
advanced chronic cases. 

Pip 

This is a catarrhal complaint. The nostrils become stopped 
up and the membrane of tongue is hardened by inflammation, 
retarding appetite and hurting digestion, since no saliva can 



THE CARE OF PETS 65 

flow. At times an ulcer forms in mouth or throat. The 
symptoms are a ruffing of head feathers, a dry tongue, the 
beak held open and often yellow at the base, eyes red and 
watery, and general indications of a cold. Give a few drops 
of sweet oil in light cases. This relieves dryness of throat 
and keeps bowels open. Keep bird warm, but give fresh air in 
plenty. If an ulcer forms and can be reached, prick it, when 
ripe, with a needle sterilized by holding its point for a few 
seconds in a hot flame, then bathe gently with warm water, 
being careful not to frighten the patient. Use soothing words 
and gentle handling. Mix together a pinch of pepper, % teasp 
butter, and a pinch of sugar, and administer at frequent 
intervals. 

Baldness 

Some birds, for no apparent reason, become bald. Wash 
the head with a solution of salt and water, 1 teasp salt to a 
cup water, less salt if the head is tender or inflamed. After 
applying, rub softly with fresh lard. 



Give boiled milk to drink in place of water for a few 
days, then feed twice a day with finely scraped beef mixed 
to a thick paste with water and hard-boiled chopped yolk of 
an egg. 

Loss of Voice 

Make some gum water by dissolving 1 ounce gum arabic, 
procurable at all drug stores, in a cup of hot water, adding 
Yz teasp paregoric, and administer twice a day for two or 
three days, using % teasp at a dose. Give much green 
food. 

Choking 

Birds sometimes swallow foreign substances which stick 
in their throats. If a bird is noticed shaking its head and 
opening its bill distressedly, examine throat at once. The 
article can usually be extracted with a hairpin, by skill and 
careful handling. 

Lice on Canaries 

The canary has no deadlier enemy than this parasite. Even 
If none is discovered on the bird, they may be in the cage. 
If the pet is seen in an excited state, unhappy, plucking at 



66 THE HOUSEKEEPER'Si REFERENCE BOOK 

his body, his feathers awry, suspect lice. Search for them. 
^Perhaps they are up in a corner of the cage roof.- If you see 
a bit of reddish rusty looking stuff up there anywhere, it is 
lice. Get rid of them at once, for the comfort and welfare of 
the bird. Nothing is more injurious to his health. Hold a 
lighted candle under the red mass, and after extermination, 
cleanse cage thoroughly with hot soapsuds. Let the bird 
bathe frequently, and examine and remove any vermin found. 

Chirps 

Don't keep seed where mice can get at them. Birds will 
not eat seeds mice have been among, unless nearly starved. 

Don't think the bird is dead if it faints. Canaries faint 
just as human beings do, and often for similar causes. Sprinkle 
with water and give fresh air. 

If birdie refuses his seed and scatters it beyond reason» 
try some other. He may know that it is poor and be trying 
to tell you so. 

An occasional lump of pure white sugar, a cuttle bone, an 
apple core, make birds sing hallelujahs! 

In cleaning cages, why not have two, so as to disturb the 
bird as little as possible during housecleaning. The male 
canary, especially, shares with the human male his antipathy 
to housecleaning. 

Canaries show a great preference for women, and for that 
woman whose voice is sweetest and gentlest. You want the 
birds to love you. It is easily in your power. 

Never frighten a bird. They have been known to die of 
fright, a rude and sudden seizure, or a loud noise. 



PTIRROTS 



A parrot's first need is a strong, roomy cage. It is a mis- 
chievous and destructive bird. If it finds a weak place in its 
prison, it will work at it with claws and beak until it has 
broken it. Parrots, being tropical birds, must be kept warm 
and away from drafts. A large proportion of parrots die of 
asthma, contracted because of drafty surroundings. They 
need fresh air, pure water, good food, sunshine and kindly 
treatment. A pan of gravel is indispensable. Give water 
for bath once a week, and in summer if the bird will not 
bathe, sprinkle tepid water over him. Then dry him in 
sun or before a fire. Cages must be kept dry and clean. 

Parrots have varying tastes in food, but one rule must be 
observed. Meat is harmful. Feed none. Butter and greasy 
foods are objectionable. Ripe fruits, nuts, crackers, crusts 



THE CARE OF PETS 67 

of bread or toast, canary seed, bits of dry, mealy potatoes, 
dry breakfast foods, such as shredded wheat and like grains, 
are allowable in moderation. A little white bread soaked 
in fresh milk with a sprinkle of sugar may be given every 
day. With good care these birds live to a very old age, and 
are both amusing and affectionate creatures. The cage should 
be covered every night with a woolen blanket, allowing an 
opening for air. 

To Teach Parrots to Talk 

Speak to him at night, just as you cover his cage, repeating, 
in same tone, the sentence you wish him to say. Some day, 
usually unexpectedly, he will repeat the desired phrase exactly, 
tone and words, as he heard it. Reward him at once with 
any dainty he is fond of. Continue this method. Some par- 
rots never venture original sentiments, others soon under- 
stand and make remarks of their own inventing. 

Plucking Out Feathers 

Search first for lice. Remove them and clean cage, if any 
are found. Dust the bird's body well with insect powder. If 
there are no lice, an inflammatory condition of blood, causing 
itching, may be the cause. Gradually decrease dainties, which 
may have overheated its blood. The bird may be too closely 
kept. Try diverting its attention. Give it spools and bits 
of wood to bite. Smear its plumage with a tincture of bitter 
aloes. 

Dysentery 

Keep the bird warm; feed it a soda cracker soaked in 
brandy and sprinkled with cayenne pepper. In a severe case^ 
try 3 drops paregoric in a teaspoon boiled milk. Repeat in 
three hours. 

Fits 

Pour cold water over the parrot and put a few drops in 
the mouth. As soon as it revives, wrap it in warm flannel 
and dry. If the water does not revive it, cut a claw till it 
bleeds, or pluck one tail feather. A "fitty" bird should, once 
a week, have 10 drops spirits niter placed in its drinking 
cup. If constipated, give 3 drops castor oil. 

Asthma 

The symptoms are short breath, distressed breathing and 
gaping. Give moist, warm food. When very ill make a stiff 



68 THE HOUSEKEEPER'S! REFERENCE BOOK 

paste of boiling milk and wheat flour, and give no other 
food for three days. Should these prove ineffective, a remedy 
should be procured of some good bird dealer. 



PIGEOJVS 



The pigeon is the earliest domestic bird recorded in history. 
There are innumerable varieties, including that marvel known 
as the carrier pigeon, and their breeding may be profitably 
undertaken by young people or anyone who loves such occu- 
pation. They have all sorts of names — Pouters, Croppers, 
Runts, Dragoons, Horsemen, Shakers, Nuns, Fantails, Jacobins, 
and many more. All pigeon houses should be erected in some- 
what sheltered positions, near, if possible, a stream of good 
water. In addition, drinking water in vessels should be nigh. 
Once in two weeks give some salt and keep old mortar and 
grit and oyster shell near all the time. 

A stable loft makes a good pigeon house, apertures being 
made for their egress, and nests prepared. Pigeon houses 
may be made in a circular form and placed on tall posts, so 
that rats and cats cannot enter. The inside of all nests and 
all woodwork should be frequently cleaned, and whitewashed 
when possible. 

Pigeons will eat any kind of grain or seed, but a varied 
diet is best. Beans, peas, barley and wheat are good. Pigeons 
at large forage for themselves, but even with them it is 
well to feed once a day, at night, to get them into the habit 
of returning at a certain hour. 

Vermin cause much illness. Pigeons so afflicted mope, refuse 
food and lose flesh. First cleanse their houses and nests. 
Their feathers may be fumigated with tobacco smoke, being 
careful not to use too much, or each one can be well rubbed 
with insect powder. 

When pigeons quarrel, wounds result which often canker 
where feathers are torn away. Rub such places daily with 
an ointment of burnt alum and honey, in equal parts. 

Pigeons catch cold and cough. Give 2 or 3 peppercorns 
every other day. They should always be kept warm and dry. 
Lack of such conditions often means defective molting. 

The Carrier Pigeon 

The carrier pigeon is larger and has strong pectoral mus- 
cles. Its love of home is the instinct which makes it valu- 



THE CARE OF PETS 69 

able as a messenger. A bird unable to find its way home from 
any distant point is worthless. Carriers find their way home 
when 1000 miles from it, easily. While not as useful nowa- 
days as in more primitive ones, they are yet useful in 
emergencies, where more modern methods of communication 
break down or fail to meet conditions. 



GOJLD nND SIJLVBR PISH 

The average length of life of these ornamental fish is ten 
to twelve years. They may be kept in glass bowls or globes, 
and if young and healthy when procured, will live that length 
of time by the observance of a few rules and regulations. 

Allow one fish to each quart water. Use the same kind 
of water all the time. Choose the supply and use it con- 
stantly. Change water every day and frequently wipe the 
globe to remove any slime or dirt. Use deep vessels with 
clean pebbles at bottom. 

Keep them where there is light and air, but not in the 
sun. The fish should be nearly of a size, else the larger ones 
may kill the smaller. 

Use a small net when removing them to change the water. 

Diseased gold fish will come to the top of water for air and 
often make a clicking noise. They should be removed to a 
separate bowl. 

Don't shake the globe violently. These fish are susceptible 
to noise and it might kill them. 

. A prepared wafer is sold by dealers, which suits them 
better than any other food. If they cannot be obtained, a 
teaspoonful of very small, dried bread crumbs given once a 
day to every ten fish is sufficient. They find sustenance in 
the water. If the water ever looks turbid, change it 
immediately. 



WHITB RTITS TilVD MIGB 

White rats are interesting and affectionate animals. Tney 
are pretty and playful, very dainty in choice of food and in 
methods of eating it. They are capable of learning to do 
various tricks when kindly treated. It is said that other 
species of rats refuse to enter houses where white rats are 
kept as pets. Boys are especially fond of these rodents, and 
when affectionately treated, the little white creatures seem 
to love thedr young masters. They are fond of bread, cheese, 
crackers and bacon. They need a certain amount of liberty 
each day, for exercise, and a warm bed in cold weather, with 
plenty of good food, fed regularly and fresh water to drink. 



70 THE HOUSEKEEPER'S! REFERENCE BOOK 

The white mice are merely freaks; the albinos of the ordi- 
nary species. They are fond of music, and singing mice are 
not unknown. Their vocal efforts vary from low notes to high, 
acute ones, resembling, at times, the swallow's song. Mice 
need cages with sleeping nests. Constant care is needed to 
keep their cages clean, and cleanliness is necessary to their 
health. Strew sand over the floor; remove daily, and renew 
with clean sand. 

For food, dip stale bread in milk and sqeeze nearly dry. 
Also give crusts of dried bread to nibble, and as a tid-bit, 
now and then a scrap of cheese. Peas and beans are allow- 
able, but never meat. Allow some liberty each day. They 
thrive better if permitted a ramble around a closed room. 



RABBITS 

This is largely a child's pet. Most boys keep rabbits some- 
time in their lives. They increase rapidly, beginning to breed 
at the age of six months, bringing forth five to eight young 
at a birth, and litters four or five times a year. Young 
rabbits are born blind, bare and helpless. They cannot see 
for twelve days. 

The rabbit likes a dry, clean, airy habitation. The south 
side of a wall or house is an admirable place for a hutch. 
It should be strongly built, so dogs cannot effecc entrance. 
It should be surrounded by wire netting and boxes, separated 
by partitions, used as nests. The space partitioned off should 
be large enough to be sub-divided by wire netting or wood, 
to furnish a separate nook for the young, should it be neces- 
sary to isolate them. They must have dry, comfortable 
quarters. 

Feed raw the ordinary vegetables used in every family, also 
celery, parsley, the tops of carrots, lettuce, cauliflower, dan- 
delion and clover. It also likes to nibble dried bread. The 
rabbit is easy to rear and thrives with kindly treatment. 



GUINE71 PIGS 

This little animal is a native of South America, where it 
runs wild. It belongs to the tribe of rodents rather than of 
swine. While pretty, it is not always a desirable pet, as 
it frequently has no affection for its owner and seems incapa- 
ble of doing much but eat and keep clean. The male and 
female use up much time licking and cleaning each other, 
and the creatures must be kept scrupulously clean to be com- 
fortable. It resembles the rabbit, but is much smaller. Its 
feet are very short, the ears are round and nearly naked, and 
it is tailless. It eats grain and vegetables, breeds at two 
months and brings forth four to ten young at a time. 




The Laundry 

Time and Labor Saving Helps 

HEN we wash we want, first, clean cloth- 
ing; second, white clothing, to remain 
white, not to become yellow ; third, to keep 
all colored goods bright and clear; fourth, 
clean, soft, unshrunken flannels and woolen 
goods. These are the results we hope for and should 
have when laundry work is well done. To obtain 
them it is necessary to use the mind as well as the 
hands. Conditions differ. No general or explicit direc- 
tions can be given which would meet every crisis or 
which could be mechanically followed in every case. 
The power of water to remove dirt differs in many 
localities. All clothes are not soiled exactly alike; some 
soaps are stronger than others. Wash with brains as 
well as with soap and water, and note results, remember- 
ing, too, that " practice makes perfect," and one washing 
does not make a laundress. 

All About Water 

The best laundress, using the best methods, cannot get good 
results with poor water. The water needs to be soft, free 
from iron, decaying vegetable matter, mud or clay. Where 
the water supply is hard, or has any of these taints, it is 
best to use rain water, depending on cisterns and hogsheads. 
If this supply is inadequate, hard water may be softened, and 
muddy water be cleared. Hard water should be softened with 
some chemical. It is difficult to give the exact amounts, since 
water differs in its degrees of hardness, but the following 
directions apply to moderately hard water and may be 
increased or decreased as necessary. 



72 THE HOUSEKEEPER'S REFERENCE BOOK 

To Soften Water 

Use 1 level tablesp soda to each gal water. Dissolve the 
soda in hot water before using it. Let mixture come to a 
boil, skim, strain and use. Or use % tablesp lye to 1 gal 
water, and proceed as with soda. Another way Is to use 1 
tablesp powdered borax to each gal of water, and proceed as 
with soda. To soften water with ammonia, use cold or slightly 
warmed water. Add 1 teasp liquid ammonia to each gal 
water. Hot water causes rapid evaporation of ammonia. To 
soften water with wood ash lye, add 1 qt water and boil 5 
minutes, adding a pt more water as it boils. Remove from 
fire, add 3 qts cold water, let settle and strain. Use enough 
to make the water feel soft and sudsy. An excess of any one 
of these softening agents tends to yellow the clothes. To 
soften and purify hard water, put 1 gal wood ash lye into 
I barrel water. To purify it, suspend in the water a cheese- 
cloth bag containing a pound of lump charcoal. 

Time and Location to Wash 

Don't be conservative. The day that suits your needs is the 
best washing day, whether it be Monday or Friday. The best 
location is where it is warm in winter, cool in summer, always 
well ventilated and convenient to water. 

To Soak or Not to Soak? 

Some housekeepers prefer to soak white cotton or linen 
clothes over night in tepid suds, and some are very much 
opposed to this method. Both have their reasons. Waters 
in different localities differ, and all clothes are not soiled 
alike. This much, however, may be said, that as a general 
rule, when the water is hard and the clothes very much soiled, 
soaking in tepid soda or soapy water facilitates matters. The 
chemical changes that take place loosen the dirt and make 
washing easier. Sometimes soaking the clothes one or two hours 
is sufficient. The water should be well softened with soda, 
borax or soap. 

The Board or the Washing Machine? 

Every housekeeper who must do her own family washing 
should have a modern washing machine. This is true, even 
if she has a woman come to the house to do the washing for 
her. By the aid of a good washing machine, clothes of all 
kinds, from the finest to the coarsest, can be washed in half 
the time and with half the strength and labor required when 
only a washboard is used, necessitating back-breaking work. 



THE LAUNDRY 73 



A good wringer is another necessity. Get a good machine and 
wringer, handle them carefully, according to the directions 
that generally come with them, and you will have cause to 
bless the men who invented such labor-saving machinery. 

About the Wringer 

When buying a wringer, see if the rubber is thick. If it is 
only a thin coat over metal, the wringing will break buttons 
on most goods. Get one with a thick rubber roller. When 
the wringer has done duty on wash day, cleanse it well with 
kerosene, rub dry, loosen screws, and set away in a clean place. 

About Clothespins 

The advantages of patent clothespins are that they last 
longer, one loses less, they are always in the place where 
you use them, and are less apt to break. In any case, never 
use the cheap, splintery clothespins. To soak the clothespins 
in warm water before using makes them more pliable and 
easier to handle. 

Sorting Clothes 

Sort into heaps, each pile containing one kind only. If 
anything is torn, mend it; if there are stains, remove them. 
Shake and brush out the flannels and woolens and make one 
pile of them. Put the prints and colored things on another 
pile. Make separate piles of the stockings and handkerchiefs. 
Do the same to table linen. Make another pile of the fine, 
white wash, towels, bed linen, etc, and another of the kitchen 
and pantry towels, dust cloths, etc. The white clothes may 
or may not be soaked in suds the night before wash day, or 
only a few hours before washing, as preferred. To wash, pro- 
ceed according to the following directions: 

How to Wash White Clothes 

Prepare a good suds of soft water, as hot as the hands can 
bear. Put the cleanest pieces, half dozen at a time, in suds. 
Wash on both sides, right side first, and rub no more than 
necessary to remove dirt. Fold buttons and strings inside 
and wring well. The dirtiest parts will remain gray; soap 
these well and place the garments in tepid suds in boiler. 
Hot water would "set" any remaining dirt. Bring slowly to 
boiling point and allow to boil about five minutes. Do not 
permit them to cease boiling after they begin. Provide a tub 
of tepid water and punch each garment well under the surface 
as soon as removed from boiler. Rinse thoroughly to remove 



74 THE HOUSEKEEPER'S! REFERENCE BOOK 

every particle of soap. Use bluing or not, as one chooses, in 
final virater. If thorouglily rinsed, they do not need it. Few- 
linens need any starch, but if very flimsy, a very little starch 
improves them. 



To Wash Colored Clothing 



Set the colors if they are not fast. A black, blue, green, or 
combination of such hues, or clothing in which these colors 
predominate, should first be soaked for an hour in salt and 
water, % cup salt to each gal water, and have a handful of salt 
in final rinsing water. Linen, of natural color, should be 
cleansed in hay water, made by pouring boiling water over 
hay, straining it off and letting it partially cool, then washing 
garments as usual in this water. Use ox-gall, i/4 cup to each 
gal water, to .set color in gray or brown goods. Vinegar, % 
cup to each pail of water, will set purple, mauve, heliotrope and 
black. Soak the garments in such solution an hour before wash- 
ing. Red and various shades of pink take kindly to soaking in 
turpentine water, 1 tablesp to each pail water. Combinations of 
red, blue and pink should have 4 tablesp white vinegar added to 
a warm rinsing water, to brighten the colors, while a cup of 
salt in a second and final rinse will set them. Repeat the 
setting process every washing, to make sure of keeping the 
colors. Use plenty of bluing for light blue goods, and for pink 
color the water with color extracted from a piece of turkey 
red cotton by boiling same in a little water. Dyes for cotton 
may also be used. 

For coarsest colored garments have a slightly soapy warm 
suds. Wash the lightest colored pieces first, and do not rub 
on any soap. On very dirty places a little mild .soap may 
sometimes be used. Rub as little as possible, but squeeze 
or knead, or rub soiled spots between hands. If starch is 
needed, have it ready and use at once, to prevent colors 
running. 

On the finer grades of colored clothes, use greater care. 
Rubbing breaks the surface. Avoid it if possible. Put the 
articles in a tub of warm water in which enough soap jelly to 
make a good lather has been dissolved. Let soak ten minutes, 
then wash by lifting up and dropping, by squeezing and 
slight hand rubbing on most soiled spots. Do not wring. 
Squeeze as dry as possible and if still soiled, put through 
another water. Rinse in same way and remember, half the 
washing is in this process. Don't put tinted or figured goods 
in the boiler. Don't use strong soap, much soap, or any kind 
of washing powder on them. Don't let them lie wet any 
length of time. Rinse well and dry quickly. 



THE LAUNDRY 75 



To Wash Percale Garments 

Tie 1 qt wheat bran loosely in a sleazy cotton bag and boil 
it with. 3 pails of water. When cool, use half to wash the 
dress in, using a very little soap on the most greasy or soiled 
places. Rinse immediately in the remainder of the bran water, 
then in a pailful of lukewarm water. Turn, and dry in the 
shade on a clear, breezy day. Iron while damp. The bran 
water usually makes the goods as stiff as when new. Any 
colors that can be washed at all will bear this method safely. 
[R. W. H., Me. 

To Wash Handkerchiefs 

Very soiled handkerchiefs are disagreeable to wash. They 
should first be soaked in warm, salt water. Punch and stir 
them with a stick, and if necessary remove them to a second 
salt water bath, before placing in regular wash. After that 
proceed same as with other white clothes. Handkerchiefs 
from catarrh patients should be put through water to which 
some carbolic acid has been added. 

To Wash Dish Cloths and Towels 

Dish cloths should be washed after each using and be hung 
in the air and sun to dry. When weekly washing is done, wash 
and boil them thoroughly. This is most important. For both 
dish cloths and dish towels, the suds should be strong, and 
a tablesp kerosene to each gal water may be used for boiling 
with strong suds. The air clears away all odor and the 
boiling suds removes germs, grease and dirt. Rinse thoroughly 
through several clear waters. 

To Wash Flannels 

Stir into soft water just enough melted mild soap to make 
a good suds, using lukewarm water. Sort the flannels. Wash 
the lightest colored and least .soiled first. Place one at a 
time in suds, punch, shake, and knead until clean. Never 
rub flannels; it makes them rough and hard. If the wash is 
large, or very dirty, two tubs of suds should be used. Rinse 
through two tubs clear, soft water, .same temperature as that 
of the suds. Fold very smoothly, with buttons inside, and 
squeeze the water from garments with hands or wringer. Do 
not twist or wring flannels. Shake well to raise the soft 
fibers, crushed in the washing process. In nice, breezy weather, 
hang outdoors. In bad weather dry in house. They want to 
dry quickly, or they may shrink in the process. 



76 THE HOUSEKEEPER'S REFERENCE BOOK 

Wash colored flannels the same way, as swiftly as possible, 
and in the last rinsing water put vinegar, 1 tablesp to each 
qt water. This restores some colors. To prevent colors run- 
ning, if they show such inclination, dissolve 1 tablesp salt 
in each qt of the third rinsing water, just enough to immerse 
the article. Pull knitted and woven articles into shape with 
hands while drying. Borax may be used in place of soap, 
1 tablesp to each qt of water. 

When hard water must be used, make suds in same way 
and add 1 tablesp ammonia to each gal water. Wash swiftly 
as possible, especially colored goods, in which the color may 
start. It is easy to .soften hard water and better for the 
garments to use such water. When washing flannels it is 
important to note the following: Don't use waters of varying 
temperatures; don't use hard water; don't use strong soaps; 
don't leave flannel .soaking in any water; don't wash them on 
rainy or freezing days; don't hang where the heat causes steam 
to arise from them; don't iron with hot iron or while wet; 
don't soap them; don't rub them while washing. 

To Wash Woolens and Blankets 

One rule always to be observed is to have the temperature 
of the water the same from beginning to end of washing. 
Choose the temperature, but keep it at one point from first 
to last. Using first hot, then cold, then tepid, or any other 
change, brings poor results. Warm water is preferable to hot 
or cold. Hot water injures and starts colors more readily 
than tepid. Warm water removes dirt more easily than cold. 
Lukewarm water is advisable. Prepare two tubs of warm 
soapsuds, using a mild soap and soft water. Punch, knead 
and squeeze the blankets, but do not rub or soap them. Wring, 
and place in second tub, going through same process again. 
Rinse once in soft water and hang out at once. They must 
not freeze. Pin the blankets on line the long way of blanket, 
so that any colors, if they run at all, will do so down their 
line. Put blankets over line just enough to pin on, so as 
to expose all possible surface to sun and air. When firmly 
pinned (use enough pins), snap and pull into shape. When 
dry, fold nicely in exact lines. Do not press. If directions 
are followed, pressing is superfluous. 

To Wash Knitted Wear and Hosiery 

Babies' stockings, bootees, knitted jackets, shawls and sim- 
ilar garments, may be washed the same as woolens, but need 
to be pulled into shape while drying, or dried on frames made 
for them. Shawls may be dried on a sheet, pinned to it, 
or simply pulled into shape on line while they are drying. 



THE LAUNDRY 77 



The feet of socks and stockings require plenty of soap, and 
special rubbing. Wash both sides. Leave wrong side out 
until mending day. To preserve the color of black stockings, 
add 1 tablesp vinegar to the last rinse water. Do not iron 
them at all, as a hot iron takes out the color. 

To Wash Overalls 

Soak the garments over night in strong, tepid suds. In 
the morning, wring them out of this and put to boil in cold, 
soft water to which plenty of soap and a little kerosene has 
been added. Boil about ten minutes, then remove and put 
into a clean, warm suds, and boil again, if necessary, after 
which rinse in several clear waters. The soaking and repeated 
boiling in clean, strong, soapy water, with the addition of 
some kerosene, loosens the soil, so that no rubbing is 
necessary. 

To Wash White or Colored Silk 

For white silk, prepare a suds of tepid, soft water and mild 
soap. Squeeze through hands. Wash through several suds 
waters, then rinse in several clear waters. Iron as soon as 
dry enough, first under a thin cloth, then with bare iron, not 
too warm. If the silk is corded or is not smooth, iron wholly 
under cloth. If not rinsed thoroughly, it will be yellow. Iron 
on wrong side when bare iron is used. In washing colored 
silk, if danger of running is feared, soak the garments in 
salt water, a tablesp to 1 qt water, half hour before washing. 
Even then no assurance can be given that silk may not run. 
They are uncertain articles. Wash the same as white silk, being 
as swift as possible, and using only one suds, if possible. 
Iron on wrong side. 

To Wash Lace Curtains 

Gently shake out the dust and put to soak in a suds made 
of mild soap and soft water. Let soak half hour. Knead and 
squeeze gently, then put through another soap water in same 
way. When clean, place in a cheesecloth bag, put into a 
tepid suds and boil five minutes. Remove from boiler, rinse 
in clear water, then rinse again in bluing water, if v/hite 
curtains. If cream color, in starching add 1 tablesp coffee, 
or tea, to each pt of starch, using more or less, according to 
desired color. Fold each curtain evenly and put through a 
wringer. Dip in thin starch and squeeze out a little. It is 
best to stretch lace curtains, if possible, in frames, but if none 
are obtainable, they may be stretched on sheets laid on a 
carpet. They are apt to pull out of shape if hung on a line. 



78 THE HOUSEKEEPER'S REFERENCE BOOK 

If there are no conveniences at all for stretching, iron them 
on the wrong side while damp enough to smooth out, and iron 
as straight as possible. Ironing, however, flattens the pattern, 
and it is difficult to get them straight. Stretchers may be 
bought, or one can be easily made. Old-time quilting frames 
fastened with wooden pins, easily made into any size, are 
good. Tack a piece of muslin four or five inches wide to the 
under side of ends and sides of frame, to pin curtains to. 
Another easily made frame is simply a large wooden frame 
covered with cheesecloth. When used, pin curtains on securely. 
Two curtains may be pinned on one frame, but be sure they 
hang evenly, if for one window. 

To Ciean Fine Lace 

It may be cleaned by washing in benzine, out of doors, 
away from fire. The lace should be covered with pure benzine 
and be allowed to soak, with an occasional shaking, but should 
never be rubbed. This process may be repeated until lace is 
clean. While still wet it should be pinned on a flannel cov- 
ered board to dry. Do not use benzine near fires or any flame 
at any time, even while lace is drying. 

When you wish to launder laces, remember that very fine 
laces should always be basted to a piece of heavier material 
before being washed. Laces should not be rubbed. After 
being thoroughly soaped, they should be allowed to lie for a 
short time, and then be squeezed gently until cleansed. 
Rinse thoroughly. Laces should always be dried between clean 
towels. Pull out gently until straight, then lay between the 
folds of the towel. Press the towel carefully with a lukewarm 
iron until the moisture from the lace is absorbed by it. 

To Wash "Comforts" and Carpets 

The most successful way of washing comforts or carpets is 
to hang them on the clothes line, moisten all soiled places 
and rub them with soap, and then wash them thoroughly 
with the hose, and leave to drain and dry. When dry, the 
comforts will be sweet, clean and fluffy, with no matted or 
soapy cotton. The same method is fine for ingrain carpets. 
[F. T., N D. 

Kerosene Washing 

White articles, unusually .soiled, can be cleaned by first 
soaking over night in tepid soap water. Make a strong suds 
in the morning, and to each 6 gal water add 2 tablesp kerosene. 
Boil the clothes in this, having the water cool at the start. 
Let boil one-half hour, punching and stirring often, then 



THE LAUNDRY 79 



remove them into clean, warm water, knead and punch, then 
wring, and repeat rinsing process. They sometimes need sev- 
eral boilings. Rinse first in hot and then in warm, to remove 
oil. When the cleanest articles have been boiled, cool the 
water, add more soap and kerosene and keep on until washing 
is done. All articles used, boiler, tubs and wringer, need 
thorough washing to remove traces of oil. 

Washing Without Boiling 

Some housekeepers do not believe in boiling clothes, espe- 
cially when a good washing machine Is used. They claim 
that boiling injures and weakens the fiber of clothes, and in 
this they may not be so far wrong. With the aid of a good 
washing compound and a good machine, it is possible to get 
clothes' clean and white without undue work, and without 
the boiling process. Soak the clothes in tepid water to which 
some good washing fluid or soap has been added, and next 
morning rinse out loosely, rub soiled parts well with soft 
soap, put in washing machine, pour in boiling water, close 
machine, and turn ten to fifteen minutes. They will then 
be ready to rinse and blue. Very dirty white clothes may be 
bleached by laying the garments on grass after removing 
from the machine, then putting through another suds, and 
then rinsing and bluing. It certainly is not necessary to 
boil all your white clothes every week. Try to do without, 
and see how much easier wash day will be, while the clothes 
will be just as .satisfactory. — [A. G., Mass. 

To Wash White Silk 

Make lukewarm suds with a pure, white soap; put goods 
into this and let soak about one hour. Draw goods through 
the hands, but do not rub or wring. Rinse in sweet skim 
milk and water and dry in the shade. The silk will look 
as bright as new, if ironed while damp on wrong side, with 
not too hot an iron. 

To Wash Chiffon Veils 

Make suds of warm water and a good, pure, ivhite soap; 
dip the veil in and squeeze it gently until all the soil has dis- 
appeared. Do not rub at all. Rinse in several waters and 
pin out on clean ironing board, over which spread a clean 
sheet, and just before it is dry iron under a clean, white cloth. 
If one does not object to a crepy appearance, it is not neces- 
sary to iron chiffon veils at all. 



80 THE HOUSEKEEPER'S REFERENCE BOOK 

About Bluing 

While there are many varieties of bluing, the most common 
are Indigo, ultra marine and aniline blue. The ultra marine 
is a fine powder, insoluble in water, and if the laundress finds, 
sometimes, that there are specks of bluing on her washed 
clothes, she may suspect she is using this kind. It will adhere, 
at times, to side and bottom of tub, and therefore the bluing 
water should be frequently stirred. Aniline blue is satisfac- 
tory, unless a bleach has been used, which leaves a trace of 
acid in the rinsing water. In such cases, it may spot goods. 
Indigo is the most popular and reliable bluing procurable. 
If the bluing is in ball form, tie balls in a cloth. Strain all 
bluing into water through cloths, as they are apt to contain 
fine settlings, which spot clothes. Use little. Try the bluing 
water with a piece of white cloth and note the result, adding 
more water or bluing, as seems desirable. Have all garments 
rinsed before putting through bluing water. Shake out well 
before dipping in bluing water, to prevent streaks. Poor 
laundresses often use strong bluing water to cover up defec- 
tive washing and unremoved .stains. 

Homemade Bluing 

Powder I oz soft Prussian blue and put it in a bottle with 
1 qt clear rain water. Add M oz oxalic acid. Shake well. 
The acid dissolves the blue, and when used in just the correct 
proportion, holds it evenly in the water. Use about I tablesp 
for a large washing. — [R. R., 111. 

About Starch 

Starch is made, for laundry purposes, from rice, corn, wheat 
and potatoes. Corn starch has the highest and potato starch 
the lowest stiffening power. Corn starch will sometimes make 
fabrics so stiff that a pressure breaks them. It is the cheap- 
est starch made and must be carefully used, if alone, but can 
be combined with wheat .starch with good results. Wheat 
starch is good. It makes garments smooth and flexible. Rice 
starch is a favorite with laundresses doing fine and delicate 
work. Potato starch is good for ordinary starching and can 
be easily made in an emergency, at home. Corn starch is 
much in popular use, because it is useful in ordinary work, 
is very abundant and cheap. For finer work, it is advisable 
to keep on hand a little of the other kinds, and for medium 
work, to use a mixture of corn and wheat starch, two parts 
corn and one part wheat. Many materials are used in starch 
to give gloss and make the iron run smoothly. Among these 
are paraffin, borax, lard, kerosene, gum arable and wax. 



THE LAUNDRY 



Keeping the irons clean, smooth and bright usually produces 
good results, without polishing aid. 

Starching Clothes 

Starch, properly applied, gives clothes a nice appearance 
and keeps them clean longer. Only a little starch should he 
used on delicate material. When white goods are to receive 
a stiff starching, they should be dried first. Others, to save 
time, may be starched immediately after rinsing. Starches 
vary so much in strength that amounts in the following 
recipes are approximated, rather than arbitrarily given. Petti- 
coats should have the lower, or trimmed part dipped in thicker 
starch than the upper portions, which need very thin starch. 
Turn each garment to be starched inside out, and see that 
every inch is saturated with starch water. If the garment is 
dry, make the starch thinner than when the garment is wet. 
Wring or squeeze each garment medium dry and hang in shade 
as soon as ready. Do not hang in wind. In starching shirts 
use the stiff starch. Turn the shirt wrong side out and rub 
the starch on neck and cuff bands, and also the bosom. Rub 
these parts between the fingers until they are saturated with 
starch, and wipe off all surplus. Smooth out all wrinkles and 
hang the shirt out at once to dry. Starch collars and cuffs 
same way. 

Clear Starch 

For delicate fabrics, such as thin shirtwaists, muslins, and 
all fine goods: Dissolve 1% tablesp starch in I cup cold water. 
Boil well in a scant qt boiling water. Dilute, if it seems 
desirable. 



Thick Starch 

For cuffs, collars, shirt bosoms and any stiff work: Mix ^^ 
cup starch smooth with % cup water, add % level teasp 
shaven white paraflfin and 4 cups boiling water. Boil two or 
three minutes. Some laundresses add a few drops of bluing. 

Baw Starch 

To be used after the thick starch, for the same articles: 
Mix 1 tablesp starch smooth with % cup water, add % pt 
lukewarm water. Use at once. If it settles, stir well before 
using again. 



82 THE HOUSEKEEPER'S REFERENCE BOOK 

Thin Starch 

For garments needing less starch than cuffs and collars, 
but more than very delicate goods: In a clean pan stir 
smooth % cup starch in 1 cup cold water, then gradually add 
3 pts boiling water, stirring constantly. Boil five minutes, 
then add 1 pt cold water to reduce it. More cold water may 
be added if desired, a little at a time, till desired consistency 
is obtained. In all starches a few drops of bluing may be 
used, if the clothes are at all yellow. 



Colored Starch 

For black, brown, tan or green prints: Make the starch 
with weak, well-strained tea or coffee. Use more or less, and 
proceed as with other starched goods. For blue prints, add 
more or less bluing to the starch. For pink prints, make the 
starch with water obtained by boiling turkey red cotton in 
it. Starches of various tints can be bought, and when a 
lighter tint is required, mix to that tint with white starch. 
For ecru tint use 1 pt coffee to each gal liquid starch. Saffron 
tea in varied quantities, mixed with white starch, gives differ- 
ent shades of cream; a decoction of logwood makes a pink 
tint; cold tea the color of old lace, beet juice gives red hues, 
and spinach juice green tints. 

Rice Starch 

Cook 1/4 lb rice to a pulp in I^/^ qts water. Pour into this 
another 1 1/^ qts hot water, and strain through a flannel cloth. 
This is very good for fine waists, nice baby dresses and an^ 
very delicate fabric. 

Potato Starch 

It is cheaper to buy this starch, but if it cannot be procured, 
when a small amount is needed, try this method of prepara- 
tion: Wash a pared, large potato until perfectly clean. Put 
1 qt water in a bowl and grate the potato into it. Rub the 
grated potato with the hands, to extract starch. Pour the 
mixture into a cheesecloth strainer and let it strain through 
and settle. Pour the water off, put on more clean water, stir, 
let settle and pour it off again. There will remain a white 
starch. Use this to make a boiled starch, same as with any 
other starch powder. If more is wanted, use more potatoes, 
according to amount needed. — [F. C, Pa. 



THE LAUNDRY 83 



Flour Starch 

Flour is cheaper than starch, and makes clothes stifEer. I 
prefer it for colored clothes. It can be used for white clothes, 
but its continued use makes them yellow. Mix 4 tablesp flour 
with qt cold v/ater, and add 1 teasp kerosene to each of pre- 
pared starch. Beat until smooth as cream, and then add 
boiling water, little at a time, and keep stirring, until of the 
desired thinness, then place on the stove and boil for a minute 
or two, stirring it all the time. — [E. H., Neb. 

Bran Water Starch 

This is used for delicate colors that will not bear soap: 
Tie 1/^ lb wheat bran in a cloth and pour over it 2 qts boiling 
water. Cool and use as you would suds. Another method 
is to put in a bright, clean kettle 2 qts wheat bran. Pour over 
this 3 qts cold water. Heat to the boiling point, let it steep 
one-half hour, then strain. If garments are very much soiled, 
wash first, then wring and let them soak ten minutes in the 
bran water, if the color shows no signs of running. If it does, 
squeeze the garments in the bran water thoroughly, wring 
or squeeze medium dry, and hang in shade. When the clothes 
are only slightly soiled, simply squeeze and punch in bran 
water, rinsing in another less strong bran water. Bran water 
has considerable stiffening power, and cotton garments washed 
in it are generally stiff enough without any addition of starch. 

Starch Polish 

Take common, dry potato or wheat starch suflBcient to make 
1 pt prepared starch when boiled; then add i/^ dram each of 
spermacetti and white wax. When ironing clothes starched 
with this preparation, use a pretty hot iron and a brilliant 
polish will be produced. 

Gtun Arabic for Shirt Bosoms 

Put 2 oz white gum arable in a bowl and pour over it 1 pt 
boiling water. When dissolved, bottle and cork. A teasp of 
this mixture may be stirred in I pt starch, to be used on 
shirt bosoms. It gives a gloss usually only found on new 
goods. — [L. P., Va. 

Starch Hints 

Before making cold starch, try making soapsuds, not too 
strong, of white toilet soap, then add the clear starch to the 
suds. You will be surprised how nice the shirt bosoms, collars 



84 THE HOUSEKEEPER'S REFERENCE BOOK 

and cuffs, etc, will shine, besides ironing easier. — [E. G., O. 

When the starch is still hot on the stove, drop into it a 
lump of alum, the size of a hazel nut being about right for 2 
qts of starch. The flatiron will never stick, clothes will keep 
clean longer; the dirt does not grind in easily, and this starch 
gives the fabrics somewhat of a water and fireproof nature. 
Spots can often be rubbed off before the material has time 
to absorb them. — [C. B., N H. 

To starch lace curtains, use a very thin, clear, hot starch, 
and to each qt of this add scant % teasp borax and a lump 
of clean lard, size of hazel nut. Tint with bluing or coffee. 

Damijening and Folding Clothes 

Shake each piece when removing from line, to free from 
possible insects and loose dirt which may have fallen on 
them. Line the receiving basket with an old sheet and use 
a clean table when sprinkling the clothes. Have a basin of 
tepid water close by. Linen cloths and napkins need much 
dampening to give a good gloss when ironed. Sheets and 
underwear need less. Starched white clothes need more or 
less. Dampen nothing that has colors which may run. Iron 
these while damp, or dampen a short time before ironing. 
Dampened clothes may stand over night, but for quick work 
use hot water to sprinkle. 

Use the Hose 

Put a short garden hose on the faucet or pump and fill the 
tubs easily. If, as is done in many western and southern' 
parts, you wash out of doors, the regular garden hose is a 
great help in filling tubs. The hose with a fine spray attach- 
ment is also good to sprinkle clothes while still on the line. Let 
one person do the sprinkling, and another remove and fold 
the clothes at once, so they will be ready for ironing in about 
an hour. 

About Ironing 

The sooner clothes are ironed after washing, the better. 
They may get soiled, and it takes time to iron, air, mend and 
put away. Have clean, hot irons. Try one on a piece of 
white cloth to clean it and test its temperature. Iron muslins 
on the right side, prints, laces, embroideries and dotted mus- 
lins on the wrong side. Iron with the thread of the goods. 
Use a hot iron for table linens, sheets, muslins and plain 
work, but for prints a medium heat, since heat injures some 
colors. Ironing must be rapidly done, or the material dries 
out before finished. Iron around buttons, never over them. 



THE LAUNDRY 85 



Skirts must be stretched into shape while damp, and ironed 
into proper position, to avoid having them of varying lengths 
when done. This is not hard to do, if one follows the thread 
of the warp in ironing. Use a heavy, hot iron, and take care 
to avoid stretching bias parts out of shape, either in the first 
arrangement for ironing or in the ironing itself. In ironing 
the garment, on skirt board, place clean papers on floor, if it 
is likely to touch the floor. If any part of a garment becomes 
too dry, dampen with a wet cloth, using hot water. A plain 
ruflBe should be ironed straight with the threads, right up 
into the gathers. 

Sometimes irons need cleansing from starch which sticks 
to them. This can be done with a sharp knife. It is well 
to have at one's right side a clean folded paper, a piece of 
old, clean cloth, and a bit of beeswax tied in a cloth, also 
some salt on paper. When the iron is hot, rub the beeswax 
lightly over it occasionally, then rub the iron on the salt and 
paper to cleanse it, and finally test its heat on the cloth. 

The Ironing Table or Board 

This must be firm and smooth, and high enough to suit the 
worker. It should be covered with soft, heavy material in 
two thicknesses. A woolen blanket is excellent. Secure this 
underneath with strings and leave a space of a foot bare at 
the worker's right-hand side. On this spot place the iron 
stand, wax and salt papers, bowl of water, and cloths for 
dampening purposes. Have no patch, seam, or tear on any 
part of the surface portions of blanket or outside white cover- 
ing cloth, which may be an old bed sheet, stretched smoothly 
over the blanket. The skirt board should be covered similar 
to the ironing table. It is handier to have it without supports, 
so that one may stand it on chairs or tables and set it away 
in closet easily when not in use. The bosom board should 
be 18 inches long and 12 inches wide. Cover with felt or 
blanket in two thicknesses, with clean, white cloth on top. 
Absolute cleanliness of material is necessary to success in 
ironing. 

To Iron a Shirt 

Iron the band on the right side, then on the wrong, and 
again on the right, until perfectly dry. Iron the back of the 
shirt. Iron wristbands as the collar was done. Work quickly, 
so the bosom will not dry. Place bosom on small board, 
stretch into shape and begin to iron at bottom of bosom 
toward neckband. Press hard, stretch and have every inch 
smooth when the iron leaves it. Lastly iron sleeves and 
body. Polishing is done by pressure and friction. Move the 



8 6 THE HOUSEKEEPER'S REFERENCE BOOK 

iron rapidly and bear down heavily on the goods. Pressure 
and rapidity with a hot, clean iron are the necessary agents 
in this work. 

To Iron a Shirtwaist 

Iron neckband and wristbands first on the wrong, then on 
the right side. Next iron the sleeves, then the fronts and the 
back — the fronts first, because they are usually trimmed and 
iron nicer when quite damp. To iron the sleeves, fold at 
the seam side, but be careful not to iron across and make 
a fold down the center of sleeve. After ironing, loosen the 
sides with your hand, turn sleeve over and iron the other 
side. Now turn the sleeve with the hand so that the seam 
rests on table with the unironed strip above it. Smooth out 
this strip with a small iron, then slip the iron inside the 
sleeve and with its point toward the shoulder, iron the top of 
the sleeve and the gathers at shoulder. Iron gathered portion 
at cuffs in same way. 

To Iron liace 

In order to avoid the stiff, shiny appearance of most ironed 
lace, place the damp lace right side down on a thick, soft towel 
— one having a rather rough surface — and iron with an 
iron not too hot. Bear down on the iron sufficiently to make 
the figures on the lace stand out, and it cannot be distinguished 
from new lace. — [F. T., N D. 

How to Treat Fringed Goods 

Napkins, towels and tablecloths having fringed ends should 
have the fringe disentangled as much as possible before iron- 
ing. Straighten with hands, beat gently, then brush or comb 
out straight as possible, trim off even with scissors, and iron. 

Care of Irons 

Do not leave irons standing on the back of stove, to gather 
dust and splashes of grease, and to spoil temper of metal. Do 
not allow them to cool on the stove either, but remove them 
as soon as ironing is done, and after cooling put them away 
in a dry, clean place, and keep covered. 

Helpful Hints 

If you will hang out smoothly all such flat pieces as towels, 
sheets, pillow-cases, etc, and then fold them neatly when 
removing from the line, they will require only a little top- 



THE LAUNDRY 87 



rubbing or pressing with a warm iron, to be smooth and sweet 
and good enough for king or queen. Unironed goods have a 
sweet and wholesome outdoor odor that is removed by the 
hot irons. — [A. G., Mass. 

When washing in winter, add a large handful salt to the 
rinse water, and the clothes will not freeze so easily while 
hanging them out. Dip your hands in vinegar, and they 
will not freeze so easily. — [M. D., Mass. 

After washing and drying woolen blankets, hang them on a 
line in the open air and beat carefully with a carpet beator. 
This will make the wool soft and light. — [F. T., N D. 

In place of soap for washing delicate woolen goods, silks and 
ribbons, try potatoes. Grate two good-sized, pared potatoes fine, 
and dissolve in a pailful of lukewarm water. Strain and then 
wash the goods in the potato water and rinse thoroughly. 
For outside garments this method is especially good. — 
[F. T., N D. 

In hanging clothes to dry, hang the thickest part highest, 
otherwise the water would run into the thick part and the 
drying process be retarded. Hang everything inside out, so 
that any accidental soil will strike the least important portion 
of article. — [E. E. K., Mass. 

Do not use soap when washing soiled lisle thread gloves. 
Instead, use ammonia, I teasp to 1 qt water. By so doing you 
avoid streaks and spots, such as are apt to be left when soap 
is used. — [E. E. K., Mass. 

To the water in which the wash is put to soak, add a very 
small amount of kerosene. The kerosene loosens the dirt and 
renders the clothes whiter. A small quantity (about l^ teasp), 
may also be added to the starch. This gives a gloss to the 
ironing and causes the irons to run smoothly. No odor will 
remain in the clothes from the use of the kerosene, if they are 
aired before putting away. — FW. B. T., Va. 

To clean the rollers of a clotheswringer of the lint and 
stains that collect on them, rub with flannel cloth saturated 
with kerosene. — [M. J. L., Mich. 

Never use cleaning fluids in the same room with a lamp 
or a fire, as they are almost always explosive. 

In hot weather, if you use a fire on ironing day, make the 
hot oven useful by baking bread in it, and other things that 
require a hot oven. 

Denatured alcohol irons are now on the market. They are 
easy to handle. One filling will do three or four hours' work 
at a cost of about one cent per hour. The ironing may be 
done outside or in any cool room. 

Run your clothes lines north and south, so that clothes 
needing sun may get it in the morning. 

A wire line may be made from an old telegraph wire, if 
it is not rusted. Use it for colored clothes and leave it up all 



88 THE HOUSEKEEPER'S REFERENCE BOOK 

the time. Wipe it off with a damp cloth before using. If 
you use a rope, take it in after each washing. Repeated 
wetting rots and soils it. 

There are remarkably good clothes dryers on the market, 
that would save many a pneumonia victim brought to the 
grave because she attempted to hang out clothes in windy or 
freezing weather, while she was hot and perspiring from the 
washing. The clothes may be hung on these dryers from a 
window or veranda. If you can't afford one, use a double pulley 
line from the window. — [A. G., Mass. 

It is just as convenient to sit as to stand when ironing, and 
lessens the fatigue of the work. But if you must stand, put 
some soft padding on the floor you stand on. It will rest your 
feet. 

On the two posts supporting the clothes line I have wooden 
boxes, with tight-fitting hinged lids on a slant, nailed at a 
convenient hight, in which I keep my clothes pins. Until you 
try the same plan you will not realize the number of steps 
this saves. — [Mrs A. B. S., N Y. 

To Make Clothing Waterproof 

Close waterproof cloth fabrics, such as glazed oilcloth. 
India-rubber cloth, etc, are extremely unhealthful to wear 
for any time, as they do not permit perspiration and the 
exhaled gases from the skin to pass through them. They 
are air-tight as well as water-tight. To make a garment 
waterproof, but so that it will still maintain its porosity, pro- 
ceed according to the following directions, copied from a 
European army recipe: Dissolve 2^4 lb alum in 10 gals 
water. In a separate vessel dissolve the same quantity of 
sugar of lead in the same quantity of water, and then mix 
the two solutions. The liquor will appear curdled. Dip the 
well-brushed garment in this liquid until every part is well 
penetrated, then squeeze carefully (do not wring), and dry 
in the open air, or in a warm apartment. When dry, dip the 
garment in fresh, cold water and dry again. This is generally 
enough, but in some cases it is well to dip the garment twice 
into the waterproofing bath, drying each time, and then finally 
to dip into the cold water and to dry. This process will also 
render the garment partially non-inflammable. The water- 
proofing bath is said not to fade goods, but it would be well 
to experiment first upon an old coat which it is desired to 
wear at work in rainy weather. 

To Make Dresses Incombustible 

By putting 1 oz alum or sal ammoniac in the last water in 
which muslin or cottons are rinsed, or a similar quantity in 



THE LAUNDRY S9 



the starch in which they are stiffened, they will be rendered 
almost inflammable, or, at least, will with difficulty catch fire, 
and if they do, will burn without flame. If this simple pre- 
caution would be adopted by every housekeeper in the land, 
without doubt it would be the means of saving many grown 
people as well as children from death by burning, or being 
disfigured for life. The alum or ammoniac helps to brighten 
the colors of cotton goods. — [Mabel Page. 

To Shrink Cotton Croods 

To shrink cotton goods before making into garments, with- 
out destroying the new appearance, try this plan: Take old 
sheets and tear them to the width of the goods to be shrunk, 
sewing the ends together to make the strip as long as the new 
piece of goods. Dip the sheets in warm water and wring as 
dry as possible, with the hands. Spread out smoothly and 
lay a single thickness of the new cloth On the sheeting strip, 
keeping both as smooth as possible, to avoid wrinkles in the 
new goods. Begin at one end and roll them up together 
in a very tight, smooth roll. Wrap the bundle in a heavy 
blanket and let it remain over night. In the morning press 
with a hot iron, and though the goods will have lost several 
inches in length, the new look remains. — [H. M. W., 111. 

To Sponge and Shrink Woolen Goods 

Lav the goods perfectly smooth on a clean, smooth table. 
Cover all over with muslin cloth wrung from hot water. Care- 
fully roll both together on a stick, allowing no folds or 
wrinkles. Let lie several hours. Press with a moderately 
warm iron on wrong side of goods, always along thread of 
the goods. Use a smooth ironing table. To press folds or 
seams in heavy cloth, wring a piece of muslin from hot water, 
lay it on the fold or seam, and rub the iron along the seam, 
so as to open it. Then remove the muslin and press the 
cloth until dry. 

To Renovate Velvet 

Brush and clean as well as is possible, then pass the back 
of the velvet over several thicknesses of wet cloth laid on 
the face of a hot iron. The steam will penetrate the velvet, 
raise the nap and remove wrinkles. Repeat until smooth and 
satisfactory. Finally dry the velvet by passing the back of 
it over the face of a warm iron. To clean velvet coat collars 
and cuffs, dip a hair clothes brush in fine sand dampened with 
ammonia water, and brush lightly. — [Mrs J. C, N Y. 



90 THE HOUSEKEEPER'S REFERENCE BOOK 

To Remove Shine From Woolen Garments 

Either sponge on right side with ammonia water (use warm 
water) and iron dry on wrong side, or steam the shiny parts 
by passing them over a wet double cloth laid on the face of 
a hot iron. The steam loosens the grease, which can then 
be easily sponged or brushed off. 

To Freshen Black Dresses and Silk 

Sponge woolen or cotton goods with alcohol mixed with 
water, 1 part alcohol to 3 parts water. Sponge on the right side 
and press with warm iron on wrong side. To cleanse and 
freshen black silk, sponge thoroughly with cold, weak tea, then 
iron on wrong side with a cloth between the silk and iron. 
[P. R., La. 

To Remove Ironing Scorch 

A remedy for badly scorched places from a hot iron is a 
Yz pt vinegar put on the stove in a porcelain-lined saucepan. 
To this is added the juice of 1 large onion and 2 oz fuller's 
earth. This mixture should be boiled five minutes, strained, 
cooled and bottled. In removing the scorch, a little of the 
mixture is put on a clean, white linen rag and rubbed over 
the scorched place until it disappears. Several applications 
may be necessary. Another method is to expose the scorched 
spots to the sun until they have bleached out. Let the sun 
shine upon them through glass. 

To Dry Lace Curtains Without Stretchers 

Tack two sheets lengthwise, allowing ends to overlap, to a 
sunny house-side. Be sure that the sheets are straight, smooth 
and tight. After laundering curtains, pin to sheets, stretching 
carefully to retain shape of curtain. Pin upper edge of cur- 
tain first, putting a pin in each scallop to hold in shape. Leave 
curtain up till thoroughly dry. In case of a ruffle, hang from 
lower edge. While curtain is drying, go around ruffle several 
times, pulling and smoothing it out with the hands. This cur- 
tain will require no ironing. — [Mrs W. R. T., Va. 

To Hang Small Articles 

I find a strip of cotton cloth a great help in frosty weather. 
Take a strong strip of the cotton, say between I and 2 yards 
long and about 3 or 4 inches wide. Now stick strong safety 
pins along one side and fasten all small articles, such as col- 
lars, cuffs and pocket handkerchiefs with the pins before 



THE LAUNDRY 



91 



taking out to the line. The strip of cotton can be put on 
the line and held by the clothespins like the larger pieces, 
and taken in the same way, without getting frozen hands 
or tearing small pieces. Every housekeeper knows the trial 
of hanging out small, frozen pieces of clothing. — [Mrs Young, 
Mass. 

A Clothespin Bag 



For the clothespins make a sack of two pieces of bed 
ticking, each about 12x16 inches. In one cut a circular hole, 
large enough to slip the hand into 
easily. Hem this opening and run 
a small, stiff wire in hem to hold 
opening firm. Sew the two pieces 
of cloth together and finish with a 
small wire hook at center and at each 
upper corner. This sack may be hung 
on the clothes line and pushed ahead 
of one, when hanging out clothes, 
saving a great deal of time and worry. 
It should not be left hanging outside, 
however, to gather dust and soot. 
Have a place for it in the laundry, 
where the pins may be kept clean, and 
where you may always find them when 
you want them. — FR. R. H.. la. 

A HANDY ABEANGEMENT ^ tuciii. lxv. xv,. n., xd. 




To Renovate Black Silk 

Cut an old black kid glove into small shreds and steep it in 
1 pt water until it is reduced to % pt. Sponge the silk well 
with this, then roll up, and in about 5 or 10 minutes iron it 
on the wrong side, while it is still damp. The silk will retain 
its softness and luster, and at the same time have the "body" 
of new silk. 



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92 THE HOUSEKEEPER'S REFERENCE BOOK 

Pop TLdditional Memoranda 




Soaps, Washing Plaids and Bleaches 

Economical Homemade Preparations 

HE housekeeper who makes her own soaps, 
washing fluids, and bleaches economizes in 
more ways than one. She not only saves 
the difference of cost between the home- 
made and boughten articles, but by the 
use of pure homemade soaps and bleaches, 
instead of the all too often adulterated commercial stuff, 
she insures longer life for the clothes which must make 
more or less regular visits to the tub. In the average 
kitchen enough grease can be readily saved to make all 
the soap needed for laundry uses, and the making of 
soaps, washing fluids, bleaches, etc., is no great task, if 
the following directions are carefully followed. For 
toilet soap recipes, see chapter on Personal Hygiene. 

About Soaps 

What the housewife wants of soap is that it shall clean her 
garments with as little injury as possible to the fabrics. She 
asks nothing more. So soaps may be divided for laundry 
use into merely hard and soft, mild and strong. A strong 
soap is best for ordinary laundry work, though soft soap, 
usually the stronger, is generally too strong for ordinary wash- 
ing. It is largely used in washing greasy articles of clothing, 
unpainted floors, and for rough work and surfaces. It is 
economical to make one's own soap, because that which is 
bought is often adulterated, and therefore costly. Then, too, 
the refuse fat of the household can be used to good advantage. 

To Prepare Grease for Soap 

There is no greater disseminator of disease than that nui- 
sance, the oldtime grease pot, that disgusting receptacle into 

93 



94 THE HOUSEKEEPER'S! REFERENCE BOOK 

which the untidy housewife threw all the skimmings, drippings, 
rinds and bits of grease. In cold weather it was unsightly 
and nastily odorous; in summer unspeakably filthy and dan- 
gerous to health. Few exist now, but those few should be 
abolished. Try these ways: 

Boil in a little water all refuse grease. When all that will has 
dissolved, set the kettle aside to cool. The pure grease will rise 
to the top and can be lifted off, a clean, wholesome contribu- 
tion for the soap kettle. Throw away any unmelted parts or 
burn them. 

Preserve all the grease and fat scraps in a weak lye. The 
pure grease may be boiled in clear water. Let the mixture cool. 
The grease will come to the top and can then be easily removed. 
Dry off the grease carefully and be sure there is no water 
adhering to it, before adding it to the grease tub or jar. When 
saving grease^ for soap it is well to do this occasionally, as 
impure grease is liable to become very offensive. The above 
precautions will keep it sweet. 

If the grease is very foul in smell, it should be put in a 
boiler with water, on the fire (about three times as much 
water as there is grease), and a small quantity (say 1 teasp 
for 5 to 10 lb grease) of permanganate of potash added, by 
brisk stirring. After the mixture has cooled a little, strain 
and let cool. The cake of fat may then be taken out and 
put in a cool place, or in the pot in which it is to be remelted 
for transformation into soap. The purpose of the per- 
manganate of potash is to remove the rank odor of the grease, 
which otherwise would contaminate the soap also. 

To Prepare Tallow for Soap 

Tallow, when exposed at common temperature in the air, 
gradually acquires an unpleasant, rank smell. This can be 
prevented by cutting it in slices and boiling it in water con- 
taining for every 25 lb of fat I oz alum and 2 oz salt. This 
is boiled together and strained. After cooling the cake of 
strained fat is taken up and washed in clean water, and then 
remelted at a low heat and poured into a barrel containing 
twice as much water (by measure) as of the melted grease. 
To this water there should have been added about 10% of 
good, clear, sweet soap, compared to the amount of grease. 
The water is not to be more than blood heat, and the tem- 
perature of the grease about the same. The whole is then 
thoroughly stirred with a broad stick till cold, when it is 
allowed to rest and separate from the water, which is after- 
ward withdrawn. The fat remaining is in a granular state 
and should be completely drained and then packed in crocks 
or barrels. Grained fat thus prepared is kept sweet and is 
also acted on by the lye with far greater ease and rapidity. 



SOAPS, WASHING FLUIDS, BLEACHES 95 

in consequence, no doubt, of its grainlike state, which enables 
the alkali in the lye to act upon a greater surface at once, 
without requiring the boiling of the fat with the lye. It 
produces a soap free of rank smell, while the grained fat may 
be preserved sweet for soap-making purposes for years, if 
thoroughly dried before packing away. 

Caution! 

Be very careful when handling the soap lye or potash. The 
finest dust of it will burn your eyes and the tiniest speck 
will make holes in your skin or clothes. Open the can care- 
fully, and wear gloves on your hands. Add only cold water to 
the lye — it will become hot, and must cool to summer heat 
before the grease is added. 

To Shape Homemade Soap 

An excellent way to put up homemade hard soap is to use 
old corset boxes. Pour the warm soap into the box, lined 
with wax paper, and let it harden there. When hard, you 
can either pack it away in the boxes, or tear away the paste- 
board, leaving long bars of just the right size and shape. — i 
[E. K., Mass. 

White Lye 

Pour a pailful of boiling water over 4 or 5 qts of wood ashes. 
Oak ashes are strongest and those of apple tree wood are the 
whitest. Let stand a while to infuse and then pour in a 
little cold water to settle it, after which you can pour it off 
clear. This is good to use in boiling very dirty clothes. When 
made right it is equal to soda, but does not injure the clothes, 
unless used extremely strong. 

Hard Soap^ — ^I 

Dissolve 1-lb can powdered lye in 2% pts cold water. (Be 
careful in handling the lye, as even the dust of it affects 
one's eyes and burns one's hands, if it scatters. ) The resultant 
liquid will be hot. Cool it to summer heat, then stir in slowly, 
6 lb melted grease, which has also been cooled to summer 
heat. Stir, and when the mixture becomes the consistency 
of honey, pour it out to cool, in shallow paper-lined pans, and 
when stiff, cut in pieces of desired size. You will then have 
good, hard soap. By this process no boiling is required. 

Hard Soap — ^11 

Dissolve I-lb can of potash in 1% qts cold water, add Yz 
cup ammonia, 1 tablesp glycerine and 1 tablesp powdered 



96 THE HOUSEKEEPER'S REFERENCE BOOK 

borax. Have a 5-lb pail even full of clarified grease warm 
enough to pour. When the potash has cooled add the grease, 
a little at a tinae, stirring all the time with a wooden spoon. 
Stir for 10 minutes, then pour into a well-greased, flat baking 
tin, lined with white cloth or paper. When firm, cut into 
squares. Pile up in log cabin fashion. — [A. S. B., Mass. 

Hard Borax Soap 

Mix 1 lb potash and 1 tablesp powdered borax in 1 qt cold 
water. This mixture becomes very hot and^must be allowed to 
cool. Warm 5 lb of clean, strained grease. Turn the cold 
potash mixture on the Vi^arm grease in a very thin stream, 
stirring all the while. Stir ten minutes, or until it is thick 
and ropy and looks like strained honey. Then turn into 
molds or into agate or earthen dishes, and cut into squares, 
when cool enough. This is excellent for laundry use. Being 
so very hard, it does not waste in washing. — [M. J. L., Micli. 

Hard Soap With Iiard 

Dissolve and prepare 6 lb soda and 3 lb stone lime in 4 
gals soft water by boiling, settling and pouring off the clear 
fluid. Add this to 6 lbs melted lard and boil until it becomes 
soap. Pour into pans and when cool cut into bars. Allow 
a -veek to harden. — [F. M. T., Me. 

Hard Soap With Tallow 

Dissolve 2 lb salsoda in 1 gal boiling soft water, then add 
2 lb lime. Let stand a few hours, stirring occasionally, then 
let settle and pour off the clear liquid. In this boil 2 lb 
tallow until it is soap. If desired, scent with a few drops 
of sassafras oil. When cool, cut into bars or cakes. — 
[F. M. T., Me. 

Hard Soap — Boiled 

On 6 lb washing soda and 3 lb unslaked lime, pour 4 gals 
boiling water. Let stand until clear, then drain off and put 
in 6 lb clean, melted fat. Boil this about two hours, or until 
it begins to harden, stirring it most of the time. While boiling, 
thin it with 2 gals cold water, which was previously poured 
on the alkali mixture, after draining off the 4 gals. This 
must be clear before it is drawn off. Add it to boiling soap 
mixture, when there is danger of it boiling over. Just before 
taking from the fire, add a handful of table salt. Stir a 
little in a saucer to try the thickness. Wet a large dripping- 
pan, turn in the soap, and let it stand until hard, then cut into 
bars and put on a board to dry in the sun. — [Mrs M. W., Vt. 



SOAPS, WASHING FLUIDS, BLEACHES 97 

Soft Laundry Soap 

For one barrel, take s lb potash and 10 lb melted and clari- 
fied fat. Put the potash into a large iron pot of 3 or 4 gal- 
lons' capacity, with hot, boiling water to nearly fill it. Heat 
the fat in another iron pot quite hot. Put 3 or 4 gals of hot 
water in the barrel, previously cleaned and ready for use, and 
ladle into it alternately the hot fat and hot lye; stir the whole 
briskly for a while before more lye and fat are ladled in, 
and gradually add enough hot water to fill the barrel; stir 
the whole again, after each ladle of hot water, till the whole 
becomes a creamy mass, uniform in its appearance. Allow it 
to rest for three months in a temperate place or cellar. 

Soft White Soap 

To 1 lb good, white soap, cut fine (scraps from bathroom can 
be used), add 3 oz powdered borax and dissolve in 2 qts warm 
water. This mixture, when cool, should be of jelly-like con- 
sistency. To clean painted woodwork, use 2 tablesp to 1 gal 
of warm water. Also excellent for washing fine clothes, as it 
does not injure the fabric. — [A. B. K., S C. 

Soap Jelly 

Take 6 gals soft or rain water, add 3 lb best hard soap, cut 
fine, 1 lb salsoda and 4 tablesp hartshorn. Boil the whole until 
perfectly dissolved, then pour into vessels, and when cold it is 
fit for use. This makes 50 lb of fine jelly soap. — [C. L. A., O. 

Homemade Soda Soap 

Dissolve 3 lb salsoda in 2 gals warm water. In a separate 
vessel slack 3 lb of good quicklime; then add to it the soda 
solution and stir the whole thoroughly with a stick. Lastly 
add 2 gals boiling water, stir again and let it settle. Pour off 
the clear liquid into a soap-making vessel and stir into it 
6 lb of melted and strained grease and 2 oz powdered borax. 
Let it boil slowly till it gets thick and ropy (about ten min- 
utes' boiling), after which pour into forms and let get cool. 
This makes an excellent hard soap. After drying, cut into 
bars. 

General Purpose Soap 

Use 1-lb can potash, 5% lb strained grease, % cup ammo- 
nia, and % lb borax. Dissolve the potash in 3 pts cold water, 
(this causes the water to boil). When cold, stir in the melted 
grease, then the ammonia and the borax, stirring all the 



THE HOUSEKEEPER'S REFERENCE BOOK 



time. Pour into flat pasteboard boxes to cool. When cold, 
cut up in cakes. A good scouring soap can be made by lastly- 
adding fine, white sand and stirring thoroughly. Fine, ground 
oatmeal added makes a good toilet soap. — [Mrs. C. B., N. H, 

Prepared Laundry Soap 

A cheap, hard soap can be made by shaving 4 large bars 
of yellow soap into thin slices. Put it into 2 gals of soft 
water, and when nearly dissolved, add 3 oz borax and 2 lb 
sal soda. Stir till all is melted, and when nearly cool stir in 
slowly 1 oz liquid ammonia, mixing it well. Let stand one or 
two days, cut into bars, and dry in a warm place. It can be 
made for about 3 cents per lb and in less than half an 
hour, and it is good for all household purposes. — [S. L., Okla. 

Labor-Saving Soap 

Into 10 qts water put 2 lb salsoda and 2 lb common yellow 
soap cut up fine. Boil together about two hours, after which 
the soap will be ready to use. Allow about 1 lb of this soap 
for every pailful of water in which you boil the clothes. They 
will then require no rubbing, but need merely to be rinsed 
and will be found to be perfectly clean and white. 

Erasive Soap 

Cut up fine I lb of the best castile soap and dissolve this in 
1/4 pt hot water with %, lb carbonate of potash. Boil the 
soap with the potash until it is about thick enough to pour 
into molds, then cool and add % oz each of alcohol, spirits 
of camphor, hartshorn and pulverized charcoal, stirring well. 
Pour into molds to cool. This is good for stained hands. 

Soap Bark for Woolen Goods 

To prepare soap bark for cleaning dark woolen goods, pour 
1 qt boiling water over 2 oz soap bark. Let it boil gently two 
hours, then strain through cheesecloth into a clean pail. Have 
ready a smooth board, lay each piece of the dress separately 
on il (after the dress has been ripped and brushed), and 
sponge it on both sides thoroughly. After all the cloth has 
been sponged, fill a large tub with cold water and rinse each 
piece, so as to remove all traces of the soap bark, and then 
put them through the wringer. Roll them separately, laying 
them in a basket. When all are rinsed and wrung out, begin 
pressing the first that was rolled up. Iron on the wrong side 
until dry; then hang on a clothes horse to air for some hours. 
They will look like new. — [Mrs A. A. S., N J. 



SOAPS, WASHING FLUIDS, BLEACHES 99 

Chemical Washing Compound 

This recipe calls for ^ lb each of soap, washing soda, and 
quicklime. Cut up the soap and dissolve it in 1 qt boiling 
water. Pour 1 qt boiling water over the soda and 3 qts boiling 
water over the quicklime. The lime must be fresh. If it is 
good, it will bubble up when pouring the water over it; 
each one of the above must be prepared in separate vessels. 
When the lime has settled and the water on top is perfectly- 
clear, strain it carefully without disturbing the settlings. Put 
this strained lime water into a large vessel with the melted 
soda and soap, and let it scald long enough to dissolve all 
the ingredients thoroughly. The above amount will make 
8 to 10 gals of strong soap water. 

Washing Fluid — I 

This preparation will save considerable soap: Slake % lb 
of best lime in sufBcient boiling water, then add to it 3 lb 
sal soda previously dissolved in 4 gals hot water. Stir the 
whole thoroughly and allow to rest and settle, then pour off 
the clear liquid and bottle and cork. Allow 1 pt of this fluid 
to 2 pails of water. 

Washing Fluid — II 

Use I lb lye or potash, 1 oz salts of tartar, and 1 oz salts of 
ammonia. Put the potash and salts of tartar in 1 gal warm 
water, and when dissolved add the ammonia. Bottle and 
cork. Use % to % cup of the fluid to a boiler of soft water. 
Put the best white clothes in first, then the next best, and so 
on. Scald (not boil) 20 minutes. — [M. J. L., Mich. 

Washing Fluid — in 

Dissolve 1 lb potash in 4 qts cold water. Let cool, then add 
2 oz powdered salts of tartar, 2 oz powdered borax, and 2 oz 
liquid ammonia. Use % cup of this in a boiler of cold water 
for clothes that have not been very much soiled, more for 
very soiled ones. — [R. W. H.^ Me. 

Washing Fluid — IV 

Dissolve 1 lb potash, 2 oz ammonia, 2 oz salts of tar- 
tar, and 2 oz borax, in 5 qts warm water. After all is dissolved, 
add 3 qts cold water and 1 cup spirits of turpentine. Keep 
in bottles corked tightly.^[Mrs H. E. S., N H. 



100 THE HOUSEKEEPER'S REFERENCE BOOK 

Fluid Soap 

Cut one bar of good laundry soap into shavings, put in 2 
qts of soft water, and boil until dissolved. When it cools, add 
1 cup ammonia, 2 tablesp powdered borax and suflacient water 
to make the original 2 qts or more. Last of all add 1 cup 
kerosene, and stir well until cool, and a smooth emulsion is 
formed. Into about 3 or 4 gals of warm water stir 1 cup 
of this mixture, and soak the clothes over night. You will 
find that the dirt will wash out very easily, and you will 
be saved a great deal of unnecessary rubbing. Clothes washed 
in this manner will be as white as snow. — [F. E. F., O. 

The Removal of Stains 

Don't use acids except as a last resort, since they often 
attack the fabric itself, especially in unskillful hands. In 
using acids, the best manner of procedure is to fill a bowl 
with boiling water and over it stretch the stained goods. Use 
a medicine dropper to apply acid and use a very little at a 
time. Dip the saturated spot into the water often, applying 
the acid again if spot persistently remains. Always have 
another vessel near, containing about 2 tablesp liquid ammo- 
nia to 1 pt water, to rinse the cloth in, as soon as operation 
is over, so as to neutralize the action of acids. Stains are 
harder to remove when left on for any length of time. There- 
fore, tackle them at once. 

Oxalic Acid Solution 

A solution of oxalic acid will remove most stains from white 
material, but if used too often or very strong, weakens the 
fabric, and should be washed out as soon as expedient. Put 
I oz oxalic acid crystals in a pt bottle and fill with water. 
Unless the stain is old and fixed, dilute this with water when 
using. Make a swab on a stick for applying acid, as it will 
burn the fingers. As soon as the stain disappears, wash the 
spot with ammonia water and afterward rinse in clear water. 
Label the bottle of acid "Poison," and keep it out of reach of 
children. 

Javelle Water 

Boil 2 lb washing soda for ID minutes in 2 qts soft water, 
then add ^/^ lb chloride of lime, and lei dissolve and settle. 
Strain and bottle the clear liquid. It will take stains from 
linen and all washable goods, and in addition is excellent to 
bleach faded shirtwaists and dresses to pure white. Soak 
the faded garments for several hours in javelle water reduced 



SOAPS, WASHING FLUIDS, BLEACHES 101 

one-half with clear water. Rinse in clear, tepid water and 
lay garment on grass in sun, turning occasionally. If one 
application does not remove all discolorations, try another. — 
[G. B., Mass. 

To Remove Stains With Javelle Water 

This is for white or washable goods. Place the stained 
spots on some hard substance not susceptible to alkali — as 
the bottom of a platter — and apply the water with a brush. 
Rinse out in clear, cool water and again in ammonia water — 
1 teasp spirits of ammonia to each qt water. If the stain 
is obstinate, repeat operation, being sure to rinse well every 
time, to keep fabric intact. 

Mildew Spots 

It should be remembered that mildew is a plant growth. 
If it is permitted to remain and take root in a fabric, a time 
is sure to come when the mildew cannot be removed with- 
out removing the cloth with it. It should be tackled as soon 
as perceived. Soak the garment over night in buttermilk. 
Spread on the grass to dry. Salt and buttermilk are good 
for colored goods. Let lie on the grass for a day and night, 
renewing the application four or five times a day. The persistent 
use of salt and lemon juice, and exposing the wet goods to the 
sun, will also work wonders. 

Grease and Paint Stain Remover 

Cut up 4 oz white castile soap and dissolve in 1 qt water 
over a fire. When melted add 4 qts hot water. Let it become 
nearly cold, then add 5 oz spirits ammonia, 2 oz alcohol, 2 of 
glycerin and 2 of ether. This will keep for years. Use half 
quantity, if preferred. It will remove any paint or grease 
stain, no matter of how long standing. Saturate the stain 
with this mixture and rub gently with cloth, brush or sponge. 
[M. A. J.. Wis. 

To Bleach White Fabrics 

Here are some of the reasons why white clothes become 
yellow: Idle too long; drying indoors; insufficient rinsing; 
poor soap; not washing thoroughly; too much alkali used in 
softening water, and the natural tendency of many white 
fabrics to turn yellow, despite all possible care. 

Our grandmothers used this method of bleaching yellow 
fabrics; They began early in the spring before insects 
appeared to spoil their work. They boiled the clothes in 



102 THE HOUSEKEEPER'S. REFERENCE BOOK 

soapsuds, wrung them loosely and spread them on the grass 
to bleach. They repeated this process weekly until, with 
nature's aid, the color became white again. When this simple 
method failed, they tried another. They boiled and rinsed 
them and immersed them in a liquid made by using butter- 
milk and water in equal parts. Then let the garments lie 
in this mixture several days, then rinsed them out, boiled them 
in soapy water and kept on repeating the process until the 
garments were white. 

V/hile bleaching powders are plentiful and cheap, at least 
at first cost, it is well to recollect that the chemicals they 
contain are powerful and may destroy fabric as well as remove 
the yellow tint. The free agents of sun and grass, with a 
little aid from simple material and methods, are all any woman 
needs to bleach the yellowest of garments. Even that common 
bleaching agent, javelle water, is composed of chloride of 
lime and sal soda, and, too freely used, or insufficiently removed 
by rinsing, has power to corrode and weaken the articles on 
which it is used. 

Sometimes, to whiten yellow garments, after the usual 
process of washing, you may add a teasp powdered borax to 
every pail of water in the final rinsing. Another way is to soak 
the clothes over night in cold water. Next morning dissolve 
1/4 Ih chloride of lime in 6 pails of water. Let clothes soak 
in this solution two hours, stirring often, then rinse out and 
boil them. Rinse in clear water and then hang them out to 
dry. 

To Bleach Faded Garments 

All prints, muslins or colored cottons may be made entirely 
white by being thoroughly cleansed of dirt, then soaked one 
hour in hot cream of tartar water, 1 teasp tartar to 1 qt water. 
Wash the garments in the same water, heating it again before 
washing, and dry out of doors. — [G. B., Mass. 

How to Remove Stains 

ACID — From white linen goods. Tie a few teaspoons of 
pearlash up in the stained portions. Or, scrape some soap in 
cold, soft water, put the linen in, and boil. 

ALABASTER — To clean stains from alabaster, put white- 
wash on stains, leave on several hours, then clean off. The 
stains will come with it. 

APPLES — Saturate the spots with warm milk and rub as 
you would any stain. Repeat, if necessary. This is for any 
cotton goods. 

AXLE GREASE — Wash the spot in coal oil, rubbing it well; 
then wash in warm soapsuds and rinse thoroughly. 



SOAPS, WASHING FLUIDS, BLEACHES 103 

BLOOD — Moisten the stain with water and cover thickly 
with starch reduced to powder. When drj^ brush off. Repeat 
if necessary. 2 — Handkerchiefs stained with blood from nose 
bleed must be soaked in cold soda water before placing in 
soapy water. 3 — Blood stains on mattresses may be removed 
by making a thick paste of clear starch and spreading it 
thickly over the spots. Let it remain two days, then scrape 
off and sponge with tepid, soapy water first, and afterward 
with clear water. 4 — To remove blood stains from colored 
wash material, moisten spots with cold water and cover gen- 
erously with common salt. Rub the stain moderately and 
wash in tepid water. 5 — If of long standing, in white cotton 
or linen fabrics, soak in peroxide of hydrogen, and rinse 
thoroughly. 6 — ^To remove from white woolen cloth, saturate 
with kerosene oil, let stand a few hours, then wash as usual. 

BLUING — From white goods. Rinse in ammonia water, 1 
teasp ammonia to I pt water. If caused by too much bluing 
in rinse water, two or three washings without bluing usually 
removes all traces. 

CHOCOLATE — From any washable fabric except silks: 
Sprinkle with borax and soak in cold water, washing afterward 
and drying quickly. 

COCOA — Soak in a strong solution of cold water and borax, 
then pour boiling water through the stained goods. 

COFFEE — From woolen material: Saturate the spots with 
glycerin. Wash with lukewarm water and iron or press on 
wrong side until dry. 2 — Coffee from white and washable 
fabrics: Soak stained goods in cold water; wring; spread out, 
and pour a few drops glycerin on each spot. Use no soap 
until the stain is gone. 3 — Spread the stained soaked parts 
over a bowl and pour clean, boiling water through. 4 — If the 
stain is obstinate, rub on a little oxalic acid, pour on more 
boiling water, and soak in tepid water. 5 — From white cotton 
goods: Use the yolk of an egg mixed with 20 drops glycerin; 
wash off with warm water, and iron on wrong side. 

CREAM — A weak solution of 1 tablesp ammonia to 1 pt 
water will remove cream stains from any washable goods. 

EGG — From spoons: Rub well with whiting. 

FRUIT — From any kind of washable fabric: Pour a little 
whiskey on spots before it goes to laundry. If the material is 
delicate, use equal parts of whiskey and water. 2 — From 
white and ordinarily fast colored goods: Pour boiling water 
through stains spread over a bowl, from a hight of 2 ft or so, 
until the spots disappear. 3 — When the stains are old and 
set, use, for white and fast colored goods, a solution of com- 
mon table salt and water, in equal parts. Rub spots 
thoroughly and then wash. For white goods, in similar fix, a 
solution of ammonia to % water may be used. Wash the 
spots in the liquid and afterward launder garments as usual. 



104 THE HOUSEKEEPER'S REFERENCE BOOK 

4 — When the stains have been laundered several times, they 
become fixed as dyes and can only be removed by use of some 
bleaching material, as chloride of lime, javelle water or oxalic 
acid. In using oxalic acid employ two bowls. In one have 
a pt warm water and 1 teasp oxalic acid. In the other use 
same amounts water and spirits of ammonia. Stretch the 
stained part over a bowl and pour boiling water through it. 
While hot, dip in the acid water and rub; then dip it in the 
ammonia mixture and rub again. After this rinse in the 
ammonia water, then in clear water, removing all trace of acid. 
Javelle water may be applied in same manner and must be 
used with equal care. 5 — To remove red fruit stains from 
linen, moisten the cloth with warm water, hold it over 
a burning dish of sulphur, or a sulphur candle. Wash and 
rinse thoroughly. 

GRASS — From white and washable material: Apply ordi- 
nary molasses to stain and rub, then wash as usual. If 
molasses is unobtainable, moisten granulated or any soft sugar 
and rub on stain. 2 — From white fclothing: Pour boiling 
water through the stain. It loosens the greer, rinsing it away. 
No soap should be used on grass stains, as they leave an 
ugly, dirt colored blot. 3 — From unwashable material: Wet 
with alcohol and rub toward center with a white cloth. 4 — 
From washable goods: Wet the stain with strong cream of 
tartar water. Let soak three or four hours, then wash out in 
warm water. 

GREASE — From books and papers: Heat two blotters, place 
soiled places between, and press with a hot iron. Repeat with 
clean blotters until stains disappear. 2 — From broadcloth: 
Mix I oz pipe clay, ground fine, with 12 drops alcohol, and 
same amount of spirits of turpentine. When necessary to 
use, make it a little thinner with alcohol, and rub on spots. 
Let it remain until dry, then rub off with woolen cloth. 3 — 
Pour over the grease stain a small quantity of benzine, and 
it will disappear without leaving the least mark behind. It 
is said that colors can be so treated without fear of injury. 
4 — From linen : Wash in a strong solution of baking soda and 
soft water. 5 — From silk: Use fuller's earth, rubbing it in 
well. Let it remain 24 hours. Cover with a piece of brown 
paper and press with a warm, not hot, flatiron. Remove 
paper, brush off fuller's earth. Repeat, if necessary. 6 — 
PYom delicate colored fabrics: Scrape French chalk on the 
spots and rub it in. Let it remain 24 hours; cover with piece 
of brown paper, and press with warm flatiron. Brush off 
the chalk and repeat if necessary. 7 — From silk: Dampen 
a lump of magnesia and rub it on spots. Let dry and then 
brush the powder off. 8 — Petroleum, machine or axle grease, 
from men's working suits, and badly stained coarse goods: 
Dip in water and wring. Rub strong soap over the wet surface. 



SOAPS, WASHING FLUIDS, BLEACHES 105 

then pour kerosene oil over it, roll, and put away two hours 
or longer. Wash as usual, after stirring the garment in warm 
water to remove a portion of applications. 9 — Mix 4 oz spirits 
of turpentine, 1 oz sulphuric ether, 1 oz alcohol. Bottle and 
cork tightlj-, to prevent evaporation. Put on stains with a 
piece of cloth or sponge. A fresh stain yields at once. Old 
ones need several applications. Can be used for all ordinary 
fabrics. 10 — From wall paper: In I qt flour stir 1 cup ammo- 
nia and water (enough to make a stiff dough) and knead until 
smooth. Take a piece and wipe the spots, using until soiled, 
then discard and use another piece. 11 — From carpets: 
Melt half a cake white soap in I gal warm, soft water, and 
add 1 oz borax. Wash with clean cloth. Another way is 
to cover the grease spot with whiting. Let it remain until 
saturated with grease, then remove and repeat. Three appli- 
cations usually remove all grease. 12 — From silk: Place a 
sheet of thick, clean, soft paper or blotting paper over the 
spot, then rub a fairly hot iron swiftly over it and remove 
paper instantly. 13 — Grease spots and places where people 
have rested oily heads against the walls can be removed by 
mixing pipe clay with water until it is creamy. Place it on 
the spots and leave until following day, then remove with 
brush. 14 — From satin: Sponge with a weak solution of 
borax or benzine, moderately and lengthwise, never across the 
cloth. When partly dry, iron on wrong side with moderate 
iron. 15 — Grosgrain silk that has a general greasy look may 
be sponged with hot, strained, weak coffee. Do not wring 
the silk, but shake it to remove liquid and let it dry. Another 
method is to sponge both sides with alcohol, then iron on 
wrong side with a piece of fine cambric between silk and iron. 
IG — To remove grease or oil from marble tops of sideboards 
or any marble: Reduce French chalk to powder, dust over 
the spot, hold a hot flatiron very near, but not quite on, to 
soften grease and make chalk absorb it. If this fails, mix 
common clay with benzine to consistency of putty, and apply 
to stains. 

INK — Stains from fingers can be quickly removed by slightly 
dampening the finger, and rubbing the stain with the sulphur 
end of an old-fashioned match. Rinse with clear water. 2 — 
From oak, ash or mahogany: Use oxalic acid dissolved in 
warm water, to which is added a few drops spirits of niter. 
This preparation will remove the stains almost instantly. 3 — ■ 
From white marble: Make a little chloride of lime into a 
paste with water, and rub it into the stains. Let it remain 
a few hours, then wash off with soap and water. 4 — The 
best way to remove ink stains from wash materials is simply 
to smear the stain with mutton tallow before sending the 
garment to the wash. 5 — From any washable material: Soak 
the spots in buttermilk before the clothes are washed. Let 



106 THE HOUSEKEEPER'S' REFERENCE BOOK 

them be wet with it when they go to the laundry. 6 — From 
cloth: The moment the ink is spilled, saturate spots with 
sweet milk. Soak in well and remove with soft rag or sponge, 
then repeat milk treatment. 7 — From paper: Mix % Ih 
chloride lime with 1 qt soft water. Next day strain through 
a clean cotton cloth and add 1 teasp acetic acid to 1 oz of the 
water. Apply a little to the ink blot and remove with blot- 
ting paper. 8 — From unpainted floors: Scour with sand wet 
with a mixture of water and ammonia, equal quantities of 
each. Rinse the spots with strong pearlash water. 9 — Satu- 
rate the spots on white, colored cotton or woolen goods with 
spirits of turpentine. Allow it to remain several hours, then 
rub between the hands and rinse out in tepid water. 10 — To 
remove purple ink spots from white goods: Absorb all pos- 
sible with thick blotting paper, while the liquid is fresh, then 
apply alcohol and glycerin in equal parts, and rub and rinse. 
Sponge the parts stained until the spots disappear. — [G. B., 
Mass. 

IODINE — From all but the most delicate fabrics or silks: 
Wash spots with alcohol; then rinse in soapy warm water. 
2 — From any washable or woolen goods: Moisten some com- 
mon starch to a liquid. Pour on as soon as stained and rub 
out with cloth or sponge. 

IRON — To remove rust spots from any goods: Cover the 
stained parts thickly with alum, and lay over the open top 
of a teakettle of boiling water. Steam 10 minutes, then remove, 
shake off alum, and let lie in sun. Repeat if necessary. 2 — ■ 
If on white goods, saturate with salt and lemon juice, in 
equal quantities, expose the wet places to strong sunshine and 
then wash and rinse in tepid water. 3 — If on white goods, 
apply fresh rhubarb juice and lay goods in sun until dry. 
Then wash in ordinary manner. 

KEROSENE — From fabrics, wood or paper: It must be 
heated, so as to form an escaping vapor, when, if the oil is 
pure, it will completely vanish. Place a piece of clean cotton 
cloth over the spot, if on cloth, and iron with hot iron. Cloth 
or paper can be used on paper, and paper on floors. Floors 
are the hardest to clean, as often the oil left in the wood is 
attracted to the surface. But it will disappear if the treat- 
ment be persistent. 

LIMB — This does not actually stain, but spots by removing 
the color. A tablesp ammonia in a gal v/ater will often 
restore the color. If drops of whitewash have fallen on a 
carpet, woolen or cotton, this solution will remove them. 

MEDICINE — From silver spoons: Rub with a rag dipped 
in sulphuric acid and wash off with soapsuds. 2 — From bed 
linen or night clothing, or any white cotton goods: Rub with 
a rag dipped in sulphuric acid, then wash as usual. 

MILDEW — Prom white goods: Mix 1 cup soft soap with. 2 



SOAPS, WASHING FLUIDS, BLEACHES 107 

tablesp powdered starch, 1 of salt, and tlie juice of 1 lemon. 
Apply to spots, then spread in sun. Let remain over night 
and renew the application next day if necessary. Salt wet 
v/ith a little ripe tomato or lemon juice often removes set 
stains. 2 — From linen: Rub good soap on the spots, then 
scrape some chalk fine and rub that on. Let lie on the 
grass in sun. As it dries, wet it a little. Two applications 
generally remove all spots. 3 — Mix 1 cup soft soap with Yz 
cup powdered starch, i/4 cup salt, the juice of 1 lemon. Place 
on both sides of stain on washable fabrics. Let lie on grass 
until the spots disappear. 4 — Mix 3 tablesp salt in 1 cup 
vinegar. Soak the spots in this mixture and expose to the 
sun. 5 — Rub white goods with soap, then wash out, in an 
hour, as usual. Or, saturate spots with salt and lemon juice 
in equal parts, and expose to sunshine. Repeat until clear. 

MILK — If fresh, may be washed out of any fabric in cold 
water. Never use hot water first. The same is true of 
milk utensils. The cold bath may be followed by hot soapsuds 
and a final clear rinse. 

MUD — If unremovable by dry rubbing, use 1 teasp carbonate 
soda in 1 pt water. Wash out stains and dry quickly. 2 — 
From dark dresses or clothing: If it will not brush off, try 
rubbing spots with raw potato, cut in halves. 

OIL — From carpets: When oil has been spilled on a carpet, 
the latter must be loosened and the floor below well scrubbed 
with soap and water and fuller's earth. Also scatter the 
latter freely over the carpet, and then brush out. 2 — -To 
remove machine oil from white goods: Use tar soap, rubbing 
it in well with hands. Rinse out and hang in sun and air to 
dry. 3 — From white and fast colored goods: Mix 3 oz spirits 
of turpentine and 1 oz essence of lemon. Apply to spots lib- 
erally. After drying, launder as usual. 

PAINT — Equal parts of spirits of turpentine and ammonia 
will remove paint spots from white clothing and any wash- 
able goods. Saturate spots, let stand, and then wash with 
warm soapsuds. Or, apply to the paint with a bit of cloth 
the same color as garment. Rub gently the way of the nap 
until paint is gone. Then sponge with warm water and a little 
white soap. 2 — From flour sacks: Rub soft soap over paint 
on dry sacks, then soak in hot soapsuds and leave until 
next day. Wash and boil in usual manner. 3 — From hands: 
Rub with turpentine, kerosene, grease or butter, then wash 
in warm soapsuds. 4 — To remove dry paint from window 
glass: Put some baking soda on a cloth and rub spots, or 
rub off with a penny. Almost any good washing powder on 
a damp cloth will remove such spots, and if obstinate, try 
kerosene oil or turpentine. 5 — To remove dry paint from deli- 
cate colored goods, where the spots are of long standing: 
Saturate the spots with sweet oil, leave for an hour, then 



108 THE HOUSEKEEPER'S REFERENCE BOOK 

clean by dipping spots in chloroform and rubbing them care- 
fully. Finally, with a clean cloth wet in chloroform, rub 
from outside toward center of spot, to prevent a ring. Where 
colors are not delicate, turpentine may be used and oil and 
chloroform omitted. The turpentine may also be used alone 
on white goods spotted with paint. 6 — Fresh paint spots 
may be removed from unwashable goods by washing the spot 
in kerosene oil and hang the garment in a current of air 
until it evaporates. Benzine and naphtha will also remove 
the spots, but are very inflammable and must not be used 
near lamps or fires. 

PEACH — From white goods: Use a weak solution of 
chloride of lime, applied often. Solution may be 1 tablesp 
lime in 3 qts water. 2 — Sometimes a little alcohol rubbed on 
spots, allowed to evaporate, and then more applied, will be 
effective, but javelle water must be used to get rid of fixed 
stains. 

PLUM — From white and washable goods: Soak in javelle 
water. Sometimes, if not found until late in the season, the 
spots may be wet with tepid water and hung out in the frost. 
Repeat until stains disappear. 

PERSPIRATION — Lay the stained spot on blotting paper, 
and sponge with ether and alcohol, equal parts, mixed. If a 
blurred place is left, rub it with powdered French chalk on 
the wrong side. The blotting paper prevents a ring from 
forming around cleansed spot. This is for all washable goods. 
2 — To remove perspiration from colored goods, use boiling 
water, but if the goods are delicate or this method fails to 
remove the stain, wash with sweet milk and salt (1 tablesp 
salt to each pt milk), and let goods soak in the mixture for 
several hours. If the goods are not very delicate, let the milk 
sour on them. 

PITCH — To remove pitch, tar, or wheel grease from any 
kind of goods, rub lard or butter well into the stain, let 
stand % hour, then scrape off carefully. Repeat if necessary, 
then wash in warm water with plenty of soap. 

RUST — From washable goods: Fill a large bowl with boil- 
ing water. Have another filled with hot water. Place the 
spotted parts over the hot water. Wet a cork with muriatic 
acid and touch each spot with it. They will turn bright 
yellow. Dip in the boiling water, and they will vanish. Rinse 
in several waters. In the second rinsing put a tablesp liquid 
ammonia, to neutralize any trace of acid remaining. Two oz 
muriatic acid will remove a large amount of rust. Do not 
keep it in tin. 

SCORCH — From white goods: Soak in lukewarm water 
and squeeze lemon juice over spots. Sprinkle with salt and 
place in sun to bleach. 2 — Spread out scorched article in the 



SOAPS, WASHING FLUIDS, BLEACHES 109 

sun, on a chair in window will do, and keep it in the sun until 
spots disappear. It may take several days. 

SHOE — To remove leather stain from white stockings or 
skirts: Dilute % oz oxalic acid in 1 pt water. Wash and 
rinse thoroughly, or the acid will leave traces. 

SHOES — Stains may be removed from tan shoes by wash- 
ing them with soap and water, before applying the polish. 

SMOKE — From walls and ceilings: Wash dirty white- 
washed walls or ceilings, where new coating is undesirable, 
with cloths wrung out of tepid soda water, 1 teasp washing 
soda to 1 qt water. Ammonia water is also good. 

SOOT — If soot falls on a carpet, cover thickly with salt. 
Brush it up carefully. Do not spread it over any clean surface. 
If not enough salt is at hand, use some flour. 

SILVER — To remove stains from silver, steep it in weak 
soap lye for four hours. Cover then with whiting, wet with 
vinegar, so that it remains thick upon silver. Dry by a fire. 
Rub off all whiting, and then scour with dry bran or any 
prepared silver polish. Soaking in buttermilk will also remove 
stains from silver. 

TAR — From carpets: Tar is soluble in fats' and especially 
in butter. If butter is left on the tar for several days, both can 
be scraped off and washed out with soap and water. 

TEA — These are hard to remove. Sometimes they reappear 
and necessitate several treatments. Soak them in a solution 
of cold water and borax, in equal parts, and then pour boiling 
water slowly through them. 2 — From white goods: Mix 1 
tablesp salt in 1 cup soft soap, rub on the spots, and lay 
articles on grass to bleach. Wet spots occasionally while on 
grass. After two or three days send to laundry. 

VARNISH — From any material except silk or very delicate 
fabrics: Saturate with spirits of turpentine. Let dry and 
rub out with benzine, keeping it always away from fire and 
flame. 

VASELINE — From towels and clothing: Soak in kerosene 
or alcohol before washing with soap and water, which, alone, 
would set the stains. 2 — Soak these stains in kerosene before 
washing. If goods are too nice to be used this way, clean 
with chloroform by wetting the spots with this substance and 
rubbing well. 

WATER — To remove water stains from lavatory basins: 
Powdered whiting mixed with a little liquid ammonia will 
remove bad stains. Ordinarily one need only rub with a 
rag wet with kerosene or spirits of turpentine or benzine. 

WALNUT — Rub with slices of sour apple or lemon, then 
wash in clear water. Soap will set the stain. 

WAX — Use kerosene, benzine or naphtha, being careful to 
never use near fire or flame. 



110 THE HOUSEKEEPER'S REFEREN CE BOOK 

WINE — Cover with damp salt and lay in sun and dew. 
Repeat if necessary. This is for any kind of goods. 2 — From 
linen: Rub both sides of stains with pure soap; then lay 
on thickly a mixture of starch and cold water, in equal parts. 
Rub in well and then expose to sun and air. 3 — Stretch the 
stained part over a basin and rub with salt, then pour boiling 
water over it until the stain is gone. This is for colored and 
white goods. 4 — From linen: Dip the stained parts into 
boiling milk. Keep the milk boiling until stain disappears, 
then launder as usual. 



Pop Tldditional Memoranda 




Qare of Lamps and Stoves 

How to Get Best Results 

iSl a winter's night, when lamps burn bright, 
and you get up from a well-cooked dinner 
and, with a paper or book, settle down 
beside the cheerful warmth of a clear, 
crackling fire, what matters it if the ap- 
pointments of your home be humble, and 
the chill storm rages without? You may enjoy solid 
comfort, because of the bright lights and well-burning 
fires. These, in turn, mean good lamps and good stoves, 
and they certainly do play important parts in domestic 
affairs and are well worth careful attention, since to make 
your family comfortable is to cause them to become good- 
natured, and when they're good-natured they're happy, 
and when they're happy they're good. Seemingly small 
trifles have a way of merging themselves into large 
results. 

About Iiamps and Lights 

Good, bright lights are not a luxury, to be enjoyed by a 
few; they are an absolute necessity for all who do not "go 
to bed with the chickens," and all may enjoy them, provided 
the initial investment in lamps was wisely made, and the 
housekeeper understands the care of lamps. 

In the first place, get good lamps. They are the most 
economical in the end. By good lamps is not meant fancy or 
ornamental lamps, but lamps that are constructed on correct 
scientific principles, economical fuel burners and easy to 
care for. A study of advertisements in reliable papers, and 
careful reading of the lamp literature with v/hich the adver- 



112 THE HOUSEKEEPER'S REFERENCE BOOK 

tisers will supply you upon request, will lielp you to make 
wise choice. Put your money in a practical lamp, and eschew 
the ornamental which has nothing else to recommend it. 
The following items may offer some helps and suggestions to 
the home-maker, who has the comfort and welfare of her 
family at heart: 

To Test the Oil 

The quality of oil burned in lamps is highly important. 
Only the best astral oil will give bright and soft lights. The 
oil should be clear and light, like water. To test it for 
adulterations, proceed as follows: 

Into a flat plate or saucer pour a little of the oil, to a 
depth of about half an inch, then hold a burning match or 
paper near the surface. If the oil is adulterated, as soon as 
the light touches the surface a blue flame flashes across it, 
and in a few moments the body of the oil will be on fire. 
Such oil is dangerous, liable to explode in lamps, and to give 
off inflammable vapors at all times. It should not be used. 
Needless to say, the above test should be carried on out of 
doors, to insure safety. 

Wicks and Burners 

Much, also, depends upon the wicks and burners. The 
former must fit exactly and be neither too thick nor too thin. 
If too thick, pull out a few threads; if too thin, sew a layer 
of flannel to the wick. The wicks will burn more evenly and 
brightly if, when new, they are soaked in vinegar over night 
and then dried thoroughly. The holes in the burners must 
always be kept open — free from dust or smut — to secure 
ventilation and proper combustion. It is a good plan to boil 
them once or twice a month in sal soda water. Keep the 
wicks clean by using clean, filtered oil. 

Chimneys and Shades 

Here again, the best is the cheapest. Poor glass cracks 
and breaks easily. The chief cause for breakage, when it 
is not carelessly handled, is the contraction or expansion, due 
to changes from heat to cold, and vice-versa. To toughen 
glass, put the new shades or chimneys (provided the former 
are not painted) in cold water to cover and place on the fire 
where the water may heat gradually and come to a gentle 
boil. Then put on back of stove or remove from fire and 
let cool gradually. The glass may then be wiped dry. Another 
method of treating chimneys is to make two opposite, oblong 
cuts on the convex sides, with a diamond. This will permit 



CARE OF LAMPS AND STOVES 113 

expansion or contraction, it is said. When a lamp has been 
standing in a cold room, the chimney should be warmed slowly 
and gradually by keeping the flame low, when the lamp is 
lighted, and later turning it up to the desired hight. Avoid 
cold drafts. 

To Fill and Trim Lamps 

Have a regular time for filling and trimming lamps, prefer- 
ably in the morning, and attend to this duty faithfully. Never 
wait until evening and then fill and trim lamps in a hurry. 
Remove chimneys and place lamps in a row, then fill them all 
at one time, using a funnel to pour in the oil, so that none 
may be spilled. Screw in the caps, and then open the top 
of burners to trim the wicks. This should never be done 
by cutting. With a rag rub off the charred portion of the 
wick, having the latter even with the wick guard, then, if 
necessary, use scissors to trim off any straggling threads or 
unevenness. Wicks should be trimmed absolutely straight, 
and the corners may be very slightly rounded. After trim- 
ming, turn down the wick so it will be at least a quarter 
inch below the top of the wick guard. This is important, to 
prevent the oil from oozing out over the lamp, which, when 
lighted, would give off a bad odor. Next clean every part of 
the burner carefully, using a different rag from that which 
was used to clean the wick. To insure good combustion and 
a clear light, it is important that the burner be perfectly 
clean and all the little holes free from clogs. Next thoroughly 
wipe the outside of the lamp with another rag, and then 
clean the chimneys by holding them over the steam of a kettle 
and drying with a clean, soft rag. The final polishing may 
be done with another rag, free from lint. 

Put each lamp in its own place and have matches, match- 
scratcher, and burnt match receiver hung conveniently near. 
Careful attention to these details avoid confusion and insure 
comfort and safety. The lamp cleaning and trimming para- 
phernalia should be kept all together in a partitioned box, 
punched with plenty of air holes. Many a fire has started by 
spontaneous combustion among old oily rags. Burn the rags 
as soon as they become oil soaked. 

To Clean the Inside of a Lamp 

Pour out the oil through a filtering cloth, and set aside to 
use again. Put 1 teasp sal soda in the lamp and fill with 
warm water. Let this stand a few minutes and then, if 
you have no small brush on hand, such as is used to clean 
chimneys, drop in a few hard beans or pebbles and shake 
vigorously. Bird gravel or sand, combined with warm water 



114 THE HOUSEKEEPER'S REFERENCE BOOK 

and soda, are also good to clean the inside of a lamp. Rinse 
and dry thoroughly. 

To Extinguish Lamp Fire 

When a lamp is dropped or overturned and catches fire, 
don't attempt to extinguish the fire with water, which would 
only cause the burning oil to spread farther. Smother the 
flames by throwing on salt, sand, ashes, or flour. 

To Prevent Lamps Exploding 

The cause of explosion may be usually attributed to allowing 
the oil to get too low in the lamp. The vacuum is then filled 
with gas and when the lamp is moved about an explosion 
occurs. Other causes for explosion are neglect to remove the 
charred portion of the wick and to clean the burner thoroughly. 
Bad or adulterated oil is another prolific cause. 

To Repair Lamp Chimneys 

Apply a little carriage varnish with a feather to the crack 
in chimney and then burn it upon the lamp, several evenings 
before washing it. The heat makes it very hard and durable, 
though it discolors the chimney a little. This is a good emer- 
gency help, when it is not convenient to secure a new chimney. 

Homemade Lamp Wicks 

Take a strip of canton flannel three times as wide as you 
wish the wick to be, and of the usual length. Fold it with the 
fleecy side in, so that it will have three thicknesses, and baste 
or overcast it up the side. This is a great convenience when 
a new lamp wick is needed and there is no time to buy it. 

Don't Turn Down the Wicks 

' Many people, when burning night lamps, are in the habit 
of turning down the v/icks. This is all wrong. When the 
light of the lamp is turned down low the combustion is not 
perfect and the atmosphere will become vitiated by the un- 
consumed oil vapor, by the gas produced by combustion, and 
by particles of smoke and soot thrown off. All this will be 
taken into the lungs by the occupants of the room. Air thus 
poisoned is deadly in its effects and accounts largely for 
mysterious headaches, irritation of throat or lungs, dizziness, 
nausea, etc. 



CARE OF LAMPS AND STOVES 115 

Cement for Mending Lamps 

A cement particularly adapted for attaching the brass work 
to glass or porcelain lamps is made by boiling 3 parts resin 
with 1 part caustic soda and 5 parts water. This composition 
should be mixed with half its weight plaster of paris. It will 
set in about % to % hour. Zinc, white lead, or precipitated 
chalk may be substituted for plaster, but they harden more 
slowly and are not quite as satisfactory as plaster of paris. 
Another way is to mix liquid mucilage with enough plaster 
of paris to make a good cement. Still another is melted 
alum, which sets as soon as it cools. 

Oil Stoves and Heaters 

Every suburban housekeeper who cannot command the con- 
venience of gas or electricity ought to have an oil stove with 
which she may cook and bake during the summer months, 
when it is sheer cruelty to expect her to do such work on a 
coal range, with the thermometer in the hundreds. There are 
all sorts of oil stoves on the market — good, bad and indiffer- 
ent. Naturally, it pays to get the best. The latest pattern 
is a blue flame with a wick, the wickless blue flame oil stoves 
not having proved universally satisfying. Every stove is 
accompanied by plain printed instructions for handling, which 
should be carefully followed. For the rest, cleanliness is 
essential to obtain satisfactory results. Many women man- 
age to do all the baking, cooking, washing and ironing on 
oil stoves during the hot summer months. Oil heaters are 
also great conveniences, especially in country houses that are 
not equipped with modern heating apparatus. They heat up 
a room in five minutes and make comfortable dressing possible 
In bedrooms not heated by stoves. They should be cared for 
according to the maker's directions. 

To Save Oil 

In using an oil stove with two burners, place a piece of 
sheet iron large enough to cover the stove over the burners. 
Then turn on one burner. There will be heat enough to' 
cook with, placing the article needing the most heat directly 
over the burner. — [E. P., Mass. 

Care of Gasoline Stoves 

Never let a gasoline stove burn dry. Keep the burners 
clean. After each meal clean them with a tooth brush. 
Neglect invites danger and causes bad odors. — [Mrs D. A. S., 
Cal. 



116 THE HOUSEKEEPER'S REFERENCE BOOK 

To clean a gasoline stove of dust, use a bicycle foot pump. 
Insert end of rubber tube in each burner and pump by hand, 
and the dust and ashes just fairly fly. — [Mrs B. H., Iowa. 

How to care for all gasoline and oil stoves: First, be very 
careful not to overflow them when filling. Second, always 
have an improved dry powder fire extinguisher hanging within 
ready reach, in case they do behave unseemly. — [F. M., Me. 

About Lanterns 

It is much more advisable and safe to use lanterns when 
going to the cellar or attic after dark than to carry lighted 
candles or lamps, or matches to strike at random. Such 
practices have caused many fires and great loss of capital. 
Have a number of lanterns always ready for use. Care for 
them the same as for lamps. Have a little lantern for the 
children to take with them when they go up to bed alone. 
Many a distressing accident could be thus avoided. 

Miscellaneous Hints 

"Wash all your lamp chimneys in your warm, clean dish- 
water, before putting the dishes in. They are so easily cleaned 
this way every morning, in about three minutes, when, if 
neglected for two or three days, one must wash and polish 
for 15 minutes to get them clean. I rinse my chimneys in 
hot water and when they become accustomed to the heat you 
will have no more trouble with their breaking with cold and 
drafts. — [Mrs R. B. H., Iowa. 

To clean kerosene lamp burners, place about I pt water 
in an old tin can on the stove. Add 1 tablesp each of caustic 
soda and powdered borax and boil the burner for half an 
hour thoroughly. When this has been done, clean off the 
burner with a bit of cloth. "With a hairpin or small wire 
push a piece of cord through the little flue that supplies air 
to the wick^ and draw back and forth, so as to remove all 
clogging dirt. — [W. H. G., La. 

If the burners are boiled in the water in which beans were 
parboiled, they will be bright and clean, and will burn as 
good as new. — [Mrs C. L. "W. 

Put a small lump of camphor gum in the oil reservoir of 
the lamp when you want a nice, bright light. — [B. E. S., Ore. 

About Stoves 

A good stove, for cooking or for heating purposes, is one 
of the best investments the householder can make. The sav- 
ing of time, material and temper will more than make up 
for the initial cost. Having secured a good stove it needs 



CARE OF LAMPS AND STOVES 117 

be kept in good condition. This is best secured by thorough 
cleanliness, and careful handling of all parts. Get acquainted 
with your stove, find out the drafts and dampers, and use 
common sense in handling it. 

Making Fires 

It would seem as though no housekeeper worthy of the 
name need be told how to build a coal fire in cook stove or 
heater, and yet it is a fact that many otherwise competent 
women never succeed in getting up a good fire to bake or 
cook, without much "coaxing" and waste of time. If the stove 
and chimney are in proper condition, good fires can be 
quickly and easily built by following these directions: Have 
grate clean, empty out ashes, open all drafts, put in a good 
layer of crumpled paper (some greasy paper is good) and 
pack it down well, but not too tight; over this put fine, dry 
kindling and a few "fire kindlers," if you have them, though 
the latter are not necessary; then put on the larger kindling, 
packed pretty closely, and after putting the lids in place, 
apply a lighted match to the first layer of paper, through 
the grate openings. When the fire blazes up well and the 
wood has caught, put on more wood, pack down closely, and 
add a thin layer of small coal. After this has ignited, add 
more coal, and in a minute or two turn off some of the drafts, 
finally adjusting them all, so the fire will have neither too 
much nor too little draft. 

Sickroom Fires 

To make a noiseless fire, in the room of an invalid, put the 
coal in paper bags, and lay one bag at a time in the grate. 
Thus a fire can be kept up not only noiselessly, but without 
dust or dirt. Dampen the ashes well before removing and 
wipe dusty places with a damp rag. When the fire must be 
shaken down, do it slowly, a little at a time. 

To Keep a Fire 

If you are leaving your house for a few hours, and want 
the fire to keep, instead of throwing in a lot of coal, it is 
much better and safer to put a few pieces on, and then throw 
a handful of table salt over them. If this is done, you will 
find a good fire at the end of four or five hours. — [J. I., Neb. 

There must be a good fire when you are ready to bank it 
up for the night. Turn on all drafts, poke or shake fire until 
it is clear, put on coal packed tightly and evenly, and after 
a few minutes put on a layer of cinders and ashes. When 
the little blue flames are seen to leap through the ashes, turn 



118 THE HOUSEKEEPER'S REFERENCE BOOK 

off drafts, one at a time, and adjust for the night. In the 
morning turn on all drafts and after a few minutes put on 
coal. — [A. G., Mass. 

Clinkers 

Clinkers are really due to carelessness. If a stove is prop- 
erly managed and never allowed to get white hot, there will 
be no clinkers, which are unconsumed aggregations of mineral 
matter fused from the coal. The remedy is quicklime in its 
proper form, or as oyster or clam shells. Put the shells — 
which are preferable — over the very hot fire, and let them burn 
up. If quicklime is used, be sure the lumps are well burned 
and not too big. Shells make the fire hotter — quicklime has 
a tendency to put out the fire, if used too liberally. The 
clinkers should come away with the ashes or be easily removed 
from the grate, but if not, burn shells again and again, 
until clinkers are gone. 

To Economize on Coal 

This is a good way to keep down the coal bills and use 
up quantities of waste paper: Put the paper into a pail of 
water, let steep a little; then squeeze into loose balls. Put 
these on a clear, low fire of cinders or coke. On the balls 
throw coal dust mixed with cinders. Leave the fire untouched 
for hours. When poked, it lights up into a warm, glowing 
fire. This is a splendid way where fire is to be kept all 
night. — [B. E., Ore. 

To Keep the Chimney Clean 

Those who have trouble with the chimney becoming filled 
with soot will find a remedy in potato parings. Instead of 
throwing them in the garbage can, burn them every day, 
and there will never be any trouble with the collection of 
soot. If the chimney is badly filled up, throw a few scraps 
of zinc on the fire when it is very hot. This will clean 
it out, and the potato parings with them keep it so. — 
[Mrs H. M. W., 111. 

Fire Kindlers 

Melt together 1 qt tar and 3 lb resin, and when cool mix 
with as much sawdust as can be worked in, adding also a 
little charcoal. While still warm, spread out upon a board, 
and when cold break up into lumps the size of a small egg. 
This will give you at very small expense kindling material 
enough for an ordinary household for one year. It easily 



CARE OF LAMPS AND STOVES 119 

ignites from a match, and burns with a strong blaze. — 
[Mrs J. C. N Y. 

Buy a dozen cheap candles and cut them into two-inch 
bits. Put one of these bits in among the kindlings and 
light it. It will burn safely until the wood is strongly ablaze, 
and there is no danger of an explosion. — [C. T., Va. 

Dip dry corn cobs or splinters of wood into a mixture of 
resin and tar, and dry for use. Or, stand the dry corn cobs 
or splinters in an old tomato can filled with lierosene. Keep 
can away from the fire. 

A Fuel Saver 

Mix together 1 bushel each of small coal (coal grit and 
dust) and sawdust, 2 bushels sand and 1% bushels clay. 
Mix these together with water, like ordinary clay. The more 
this is stirred and mixed together, the better. Shape into 
balls or bricks and let them dry. When hard they are ready 
for use. A fire cannot be lighted with these, but when the 
fire is lighted, put two or three on behind, with some coal 
in front, and the fire will last much longer than ordinarily. 

Bricks for Keeping Fire 

Mix together 1 part of coal, charcoal or sawdust, 2 parts 
of sand and 1 part of marl or clay. Mix with water to the 
proper consistency, and make into bricks or balls of a con- 
venient size, and let dry. When the fire is sufficiently strong, 
place some of these bricks a little above the top bar. They 
will produce a heat a great deal more intense than common 
fuel, and cause a saving of coals. A fire thus made up will 
keep for ten hours or longer. 

About Stove Blacking 

Many housewives have some favorite blacking which they 
prefer to use to bothering with a homemade composition, but 
there may come a time to even the most careful housekeeper 
when she will need a polish which she can make herself, and, 
if ,so, there will certainly be some one among the following 
that will prove a "friend in need." Blackings should be kept 
cool and dry and tightly corked. 

Stove Polishes 

Mix together 1 lb black lead, 2 lb copperas, and 1 lb bone 
black. As the copperas comes in crystals it must be ground 
to a fine powder. The three ingredients are then well mixed. 
For use, add enough water to a little of the powder to make 



120 THE HOUSEKEEPER'S REFERENCE BOOK 

the liquid about the consistency of cream. Apply to the stove 
in the usual way and brush briskly. A lustrous and durable 
polish is obtained. There is no better article on the market. 
[F. E. F., O. 

Mix the beaten whites of 3 eggs with 14 lb finely powdered 
black lead; dilute with sour beer or porter till it is as thin 
as cream. Simmer for 20 minutes. When cold, it is ready 
to use. — [E. P., Mass. 

Mix black lead with white of egg to a molasses consistency. 
Put on with a small paint brush, and polish, when dry, with 
a heavy brush. — [No Name. 

Mix together in a stone jug 1 gal vinegar, 1 lb powdered 
ivory black, V^. lb sugar, 1/. oz oil of vitriol, and 6 oz sweet 
oil. Cork well and shake before using.— [Mrs Z. T. T., N C. 

Mix well together 4 oz powdered ivory black, 6 gills vinegar, 
1 tablesp sweet oil and 2 tablesp molasses. — [A. S. B., Mass. 

Stove luster, when mixed with turpentine and applied in 
the usual manner, is blacker, more glossy and more durable 
than when mixed with any other liquid. — [R. K., Neb. 

Mix the commercial stove blacking with soapsuds or vine- 
gar, instead of water. It will polish better and won't be so 
dusty. — [A. G. 

To blacken a stove while there is fire, let it go down some, 
then sweep off the top of stove, put a little old lard or grease 
on a newspaper and rub briskly. This blackens it nicely, and 
takes but a few moments after dinner. — [R. M. H., Mass. 

Polish for Stovepipes 

Mix 1 part turpentine with 1 part linseed oil. Apply with 
a cloth while pipe is slightly warm. — [L. L., Can. 

Stove Cement 

Take 1 part salt and 2 parts each of wood ashes and 
clay. Mix stiff with water. This will temporarily fill cracks 
in stoves or pipes in emergencies needing such aid. Apply 
and allow to harden while stove is cold. 

A good fireproof cement for iron is made by mixing finely 
pulverized binoxide of magnesia with a strong solution of 
silicate of soda (water clay) so it forms a thick paste. After 
filling the cracks, heat the stove slowly. — [E. P., Mass. 

Miscellaneous Notes 

Mica in stoves, when smoked, is readily cleaned by 
thoroughly washing with vinegar a little diluted. If the black 
does not come off at once, let it soak a little. — [Mrs H. K., 
Neb. 



CARE OF LAMPS AND STOVES 121 

Wear gloves when you black and polish stoves, or, if you 
can't do that, then grease your hands well, around fingers, 
nails and all, before touching the blacking. It will then wash 
off easily. — [A. G., Mass. 

Dry potato peelings mixed with the kindling wood makes 
the fires light easily. — [Bertha Evans, Sandy, Ore. 

If the range is wiped carefully with newspaper after every 
cooking or frying of greasy food, it can be kept bright with 
only one blacking a week. — [Mrs J. C, N Y. 

The Cause of Chimneys Smoking 

Smoking chimneys are the result of various causes. The 
chimney may not be tall enough or not properly constructed 
at the arch, or the flue may be clogged, or there may be 
openings along the chimney which lessen or destroy the draft, 
or the flue may be too narrow at the top, or there may be 
some partitions in the chimney that obstruct the drafts. 
Chimneys should be tall enough to out top any roof ridge 
or building nearby. If a fireplace is used, the flue should 
be large enough to allow free escape of smoke and gases. 
The flue should always be kept clear. If the flue is narrow 
at the top, the tendency is to drive the smoke back. If 
anything, the upper portion of the flue should be a trifle 
larger than the lower, but never smaller. If salt is mixed 
with the mortar which is used in building the chimney, the 
accumulation of soot will be prevented. The salt absorbs the 
moisture every damp day and imparts it to the soot, which 
thus becomes heavy and falls down into the fireplace. A 
remedy for a chimney on fire is plenty of salt. 

How to See Up a Chimney 

Place in the hole of the chimney wall into which the stove- 
pipe is to go, a piece of mirror inclined at 45 degrees. If you 
can see the light of the sky you will also see the whole interior 
of the chimney and any obstruction in the same. 

To Make Matches Waterproof 

It is said that friction matches can be made perfectly water- 
proof by dipping them in a solution of 2 parts glycerin and 100 
parts collodion. 



122 THE HOUSEKEEPER'S REFERENCE BOOK 



Pop Additional Memoranda 




Home Made Polishes 

For Leather, Furniture, Harness and Carriages 

OLISHES and cleansers should always be 
on hand and used liberally. They are 
labor-savers. In domestic economy our 
hard-working great-grandmothers used to 
accomplish much in this branch by the use 
of what they termed " elbow grease." That 
lubrication may be still a very necessary adjunct to a 
good polish, but the work can be made easier by calling 
upon the assistance of some one of the many excellent 
recipes that follow. 

Metal Polishers and Cleansers 

Mix % pt refined neat's-foot oil and % gill spirits of 
turpentine. Wet a woolen rag witli this mixture, then dip 
the rag into powdered rotten stone, and rub well over the 
metal. Wipe off with a soft cloth and polish with a dry 
chamois skin. 

When iron seems hopelessly rusty, scour it with salt mois- 
tened in scalding vinegar; soak it for 24 hours in kerosene 
oil, then dry and vigorously rub with a flannel cloth dipped 
in sweet oil. 

If new tinware be rubbed over with fresh lard and 
thoroughly heated in the oven before it is used, it will not 
rust afterward, no matter how much it is put in water. — 
[F. E. F., O. 

Use finely sifted coal ashes to polish tin,ware. Apply with 
a damp cloth. Also good for polishing steel knives and 
forks. 

To make old tinware look like new, put it in a boiler and 
cover with water to which you have added about a tablesp 
of lye, more or less. 

To clean pewter ware, mix 1 lb neat's-foot oil with 1 oz 
aqua ammonia and enough powdered rotten stone to make 
a thick paste. Rub with the paste and polish with a rag. 



124 THE HOUSEKEEPER'S REFERENCE BOOK 

The water in which common white beans have been boiled 
will cleanse brass not very badly soiled. A mixture of vine- 
gar and salt will do the same, but the salt must be fine 
and thoroughly dissolved in the vinegar, or it may scratch 
the brass. — [M. H., S D. 

Half a lemon dipped in salt will do all the work of oxalic 
acid in cleaning copper boilers, brass teakettles and other 
copper and brass utensils. — [P. T., N D. 

Badly tarnished brass may be cleaned with ease if it is 
first rubbed with salt and vinegar, or oxalic acid. Follow 
with a good washing of soap and water, then polish with any 
good cleaning preparation. — [F. E. F., O. 

Finely rubbed bichromate of potassa, mixed with twice its 
bulk of sulphuric acid, and an equal quantity of water, will 
clean the dirtiest brass very quickly. — [JVT. A. J., Wis. 

This is a good powder to polish brass and copper-. Thoroughly 
mix 3 parts powdered rotten stone and 1 part powdered white 
soap. When wanted for use, moisten with water. 

To cleanse bronze, dust it carefully, then wipe it with a 
soft cloth moistened with sweet oil. Polish with a soft 
chamois skin. — [F. T., N D. 

Silver Cleansers and Polishes 

Mix V2 oz fine salt, % oz powdered alum, 1/2 oz cream of 
tartar, and pour on 2 qts water. Stir frequently, until dis- 
solved. Place the mixture in clean bottles and cork closely. 
When using, shake well. Pour some of the liquid into a 
small bowl and wash the silver with it, using an old, soft 
linen cloth. Let it stand ten minutes and then rub dry. 

To 1 qt soft water, add 2 oz ammonia and 3 oz precipitated 
chalk. Put in bottles, keep well corked and shake before 
using. — [C. T., la. 

To keep silver as bright as new, without scratches, make 
a strong solution of sal soda and boiling water. Drop the 
silver in this, then take out and wipe dry and you will have 
accomplished the work of hours of scouring. — -[C. B., N H. 

Dissolve a quantity of alum in water, so as to make a 
pretty strong brine. Skim it carefully, then add some pure 
white soap to it. Dip a flannel rag in this and rub the silver 
until it shines to suit you. 

To Polish Gold Jewelry- 
Powder some whiting and make it into a moist paste with 
some sal-volatile. Cover the gold ornaments with paste, using 
a soft brush, and let it dry. Then brush it off with a moderately 
hard brush. To polish gold chain, put it in a glass bottle 



HOMEMADE POLISHES 125 

with water, soap and finely powdered chalk. Shake well, then 
rinse in clear, cold water and polish dry with soft flannel or 
silk. 

Boots and Shoes 

If boots and shoes receive proper care they will last much 
longer than they usually do, and at the same time fit the 
feet better and keep them more comfortable during inclement 
weather. The upper leather should be kept soft and pliable, 
while the soles should be hard, and as far as possible water- 
proof. Boots and shoes should be cleaned frequently and 
should never be allowed to stand in a damp place,' nor to 
be put too near the fire to dry. In cleaning, be careful to 
brush the dirt from the seams, and do not use a knife for 
this purpose, which is likely to cut the stitches. Do not 
put on too much blacking at a time. 

To Oil the Soles of New Shoes 

Set each new shoe on a platter or dinner plate and pour 
onto the plate enough boiled linseed oil to reach the upper 
edge of the soles. Allow the soles to absorb as much oil 
as they will, for about eight to ten hours. The linseed oil 
should never be applied to the upper leather, as it would 
render it hard and tough, but if the soles be saturated with 
this oil, it will exclude the dampness and also enlarge the 
pegs. Treated thus the soles will not get loose from the 
upper leather. Also, if the shoes be sewed, the linseed oil 
will preserve the thread from rotting. This treatment will 
also prevent the shoes from squeaking. 

To Break in New Shoes 

After the soles of new shoes have been treated as directed, 
put the shoes on the feet and wet the upper leather thoroughly. 
Keep them on the feet until they are dry. In this way the 
parts which are tight stretch, and the shoes will conform to 
the shape of the feet, making it easier to wear them there- 
after. After the shoes have dried, give the upper leather 
a thorough greasing with equal parts of lard and tallow, or 
tallow and neat's-foot oil. Treated in this manner, and with 
a row of round-headed shoe nails driven around the edge of 
the soles and heels they will wear twice as long as usual. 

To Dry Shoes 

When shoes have been thoroughly soaked by rain or snow, 
do not put them near the fire to dry. Wipe them as dry as 



126 THE HOUSEKEEPER'Si REFERENCE BOOK 

possible witli a soft cloth and then stuff the shoes full of 
Indian, or corn, meal. Set them away in a dry, warm (but 
not hot) place for 10 to 15 hours; then remove the 
Indian meal and grease the uppers well with a mixture of 
tallow and lard^ and wipe clean. 

To Make Boots and Shoes Waterproof 

Take 4 parts of spermacetti and 1 small part of India 
rubber. Melt with gentle heat, then add 10 parts of tallow 
or lard, and 5 parts of amber or copal varnish. Mix well and 
apply the composition to the leather with a paint brush. 
The rubber should be cut into very small pieces and allowed 
plenty of time to dissolve — about five to six hours. A coat 
of gum copal varnish applied to the soles of boots and shoes 
and repeated as it dries, until pores are well filled, will make 
the soles waterproof. 

Another waterproof composition is made as follows: Melt 
3 oz beeswax with the same quantity of resin, then add 1 pt 
boiled linseed oil. Stir well together, let it boil up, remove 
from the fire, and add 3 oz oil of turpentine. A more simple 
formula is melted beeswax and mutton tallow. 

Farmers and gardeners, from the nature of their work, are 
often exposed to wet feet. Some object to greasing shoes for 
the purpose of keeping them soft, saying it causes the leather 
to rot, and so makes it more pervious to dampness. My own 
experience has not confirmed this view, and I give a formula 
used by an old New England fisherman in his trade for over 
seventy years: Boiled linseed oil, 1 pt; mutton suet (fresh), 
V2 lb; yellow beeswax (clean), 6 oz; yellow resin, 4 oz. Melt and 
mix well, apply with soft brush, warm, but not so hot as to 
shrink the leather. With shoes so treated, you can stand 
in water for hours and your feet will not be damp. — [P. M. P., 
Me. 

To Clean White Canvas Shoes 

Stuff the shoe with cotton wadding so there will be no 
creases. Mix some pipe clay with water to a stiff paste. 
Wash the shoes with Ivory soap and water, and a nail brush, 
using as little water as possible to get the dirt off. When 
the shoes look tolerably clean, dip a piece of damp flannel 
in the pipe clay and rub well over the shoes, after which hang 
them out to dry. When dry, beat out the superfluous clay 
and wipe the shoes carefully. 

To Restore Kid Shoes 

Mix a small quantity of some good, black ink with the white 
of an egg, and apply this mixture to the shoes with a soft 



HOMEMADE POLISHES 127 

sponge. Wipe with a flannel rag. To soften kid shoes, apply- 
ing a small quantity of the following occasionally with a piece 
of flannel is fine: To % lb melted tallow add ^4= lt» olive 
oil; stir well. Use in very small quantities. 

To Renovate Patent Leather 

If patent leather shoes have cracks, brush a little blacking 
into the cracks, and then rub them over with French polish 
or common furniture polish, and finish off with a soft, dry 
rag. If no furniture polish is at hand, a mixture of sweet oil 
and turpentine will answer. 

A nice polish for enamel leather is made as follows: To 
2 pts thick, sweet cream add 1 pt linseed oil. Make them 
each lukewarm and then mix them well together. Before 
applying, clean the shoes and then rub them over with, 
a sponge dipped in the mixture, after which rub with a soft, 
dry cloth until a brilliant luster is produced. 

About Leather Blackings 

Both liquid and paste blackings should be stored in a cool 
and moderately dry place, and when in use should be kept 
corked or otherwise excluded from the air. Exposure to 
the air destroys its best qualities. Blackings containing vitriol 
in quantity are more or less injurious to the leather. The 
manipulations required in the manufacture of both paste and 
liquid blackings are essentially the same, the difference between 
the two articles depending mainly on the quantity of liquid. 
By diluting paste blacking with weak vinegar or stale beer, it 
may be converted into liquid blacking, and by using less fluid 
matter, the ingredients of liquid blacking will produce paste 
blacking. The ivory black used for liquid blacking should 
be a much finer powder than that used for paste blacking, 
as otherwise it is apt to settle at the bottom of the bottle 
and not readily mix with the liquid. 

Luster Shoe Polish 

Mix the whites of 2 eggs with 1 tablesp pure alcohol and 2 
teasp powdered sugar. Add enough finely powdered ivory 
black to impart the required color and thickness, but be 
careful not to use too much. Apply to the shoe with a sponge 
or soft brush, and when almost dry polish with another 
brush or a cloth. This polish is best adapted for shoes for 
indoor wear, for if exposed to the elements, it is liahle to 
crack off. 



128 THE HOUSEKEEPER'S REFERENCE BOOK 

Polish for Morocco 

Pound some black sealing wax and put in a bottle with 
alcohol. Shake frequently, and when dissolved, apply to the 
shoes. Let dry in the sun. 

The coverings of chairs or sofas in morocco, roan or skiver 
can be much improved by this reviver. If old and greasy, 
wash with sour milk first. The reviver should be applied 
with a piece of wadding and wiped one way only, as in glazing. 
The color can be matched by adding red Sanders. To % pt 
alcohol add 2 oz gum benzoin, and % oz shellac. Mix and 
shake up occasionally, until dissolved. 

Liquid Blacking for Shoes 

Mix together 14 lb ivory black, 6 gills vinegar, 1 tablesp 
sweet oil and 2 tablesp molasses. Stir the whole well 
together and apply with a sponge, first cleaning the shoes. 

To 1 gal vinegar add 1 lb pulverized ivory black, % lb loaf 
sugar, Vz oz oil of vitriol and 7 oz sweet oil. Another recipe 
calls for 12 oz each of ivory black and treacle (molasses), 4 
oz spermacetti oil, and 2 oz white wine vinegar. Mix 
thoroughly. As this contains no vitriol, it will not injure 
the leather. 

Mix 2 pts vinegar and 1 pt water, then stir into this % Ih 
glue, broken fine, % lb logwood chips, i^ oz finely powdered 
Indigo, y^, oz best soft soap, and y^ oz isinglass. Boil 15 
minutes, then strain, bottle and cork. Remove all dirt from 
shoes and apply polish cold, with a clean sponge. If too thick, 
thin by holding near a fire. 

Waterproof Blacking 

Melt 3 oz beeswax and 3 oz black resin, stir in 1 pt boiled 
linseed oil and 1 oz lampblack. When cooled, stir in 3 oz 
oil of turpentine. This is a good mixture for boots and shoes 
much exposed to rain, snow and dampness. 

Care of Harnesses and Carriages 

Mud and dust are highly destructive to harnesses and car- 
riages, or, in fact, any leather goods. The pores become 
clogged, the luster is deadened, and the life of the leather 
is destroyed. Harnesses and vehicles should be cleaned after 
each use, as soon as possible. Warm suds are best. Use 
mild soap and a sponge. Rinse with clear water and wipe 
dry with soft cloths. Never allow leather goods to be exposed 
to sun rays when not in use. Always secure loose bolts 
at once, and permit no unnecessary friction or rattling. 



HOMEMADE POLISHES 129 

Improve each rainy day by applying yourself to the care and 
renovating of leather goods on the farm. 

Harness Blackings 

To 2 oz mutton suet add 6 oz pure beeswax, 2 oz soft soap, 
2% oz lamp black, and % oz finely powdered Indigo. When 
thoroughly incorporated by gentle heat, remove from fire and 
thoroughly mix in % pt oil of turpentine. 

Mix together 4 oz melted mutton suet with 12 oz beeswax, 
then add 12 oz sugar candy and 4 oz soft soap dissolved in 
water, and 2 oz finely powdered Indigo. "When melted and 
well mixed, remove from fire and add ^2 pt oil of turpentine 
and mix well. Apply to the harness with a sponge and polish 
off with a brush. 

An excellent blacking is made by heating to boiling point 
4 oz hog's lard, 16 oz neat's-foot oil, 4 oz yellow wax, 20 oz 
ivory black, 16 oz brown, sugar, and 16 oz of water. When cool 
enough to handle, roll into balls. 

Mix 1 lb beeswax, 6 oz soft soap, ^4 lb ivory black, 1 oz 
Prussian blue, 2 oz linseed oil, % pt turpentine. Melt and 
pour into tins or jars. 

Soften 2 lb glue in I pt water. Dissolve 2 lb soap in 1 qt 
warm water. Melt the soaked glue and turn into a large 
pot. Place the pot over a hot fire and turn in the soap 
water, stirring slowly. When well mixed, add i/^ lb yellow 
wax, cut in pieces. Boil until wax is melted, then add ^^ pt 
neat's-foot oil and lamp black enough to give it color. Let 
it boil again five minutes and it is done. 

Dissolve by heat 4 oz gelatin or glue and 3 oz gum arable, 
in % pt water. Add 5 oz molasses and 5 oz finely powdered 
ivory black. Gently evaporate to proper consistency. When 
nearly cold, put it in bottles and cork them. When used, the 
liquid can be thinned by warming. This does not resist 
the wet. 

Waterproof Harness Blackings 

To 2 oz white wax add 3 oz turpentine and dissolve together 
over a slow fire, using great care so that the mixture will not 
catch fire. When dissolved add 1 oz ivory black and 1 
dram Indigo, well pulverized. Stir until cold. Apply this 
mixture to the harness very thin, and brush it afterward, to 
secure a beautiful polish. 

This is another waterproof liquid: Heat together 2 oz mut- 
ton suet, 6 oz pure beeswax, 2 oz soft soap, 2% oz lampblack 
and V2 oz powdered Indigo. When thoroughly mixed, add %' 
pt oil of turpentine and pour into bottles and cork. 



130 THE HOUSEKEEPER'S REFERENCE BOOK 

Dissolve together over slow fire 3 oz turpentine and 2 oz 
white wax, then add 1 oz ivory black and 1 dram Indigo, well 
pulverized and mixed together. When the wax and turpentine 
are dissolved, add the other ingredients and stir until cold. 
Apply thin and polish after it is dry. 

Harness Varnishes 

Take 3 sticks of black sealing wax, dissolve them in Vz pt 
alcohol, and then apply with a sponge. Lac dissolved in 
alcohol and colored with lampblack will answer the same pur- 
pose. This Is a quick-drying, hard varnish, liable to crack 
the leather, and should, therefore, be put on as seldom as 
possible. 

Put in a jug near a stove or in the sun 1 gal alcohol, IVz 
lb white turpentine, 1% lb gum shellac, and 1 gill Venice 
turpentine. When dissolved, add 1 gill sweet oil and 2 oz 
lampblack. This mixture will not crack when the harness 
is twisted. 

Carriage Top Dressing 

Take of ivory and lampblack 1 lb each, and 4 oz of gum 

arable, 6 oz of brown sugar, 1 oz of Indigo and % oz of glue. 

Dissolve in I qt hot water, and mix well together. If wanted 
thinner, add % oz alcohol. 

Oiling Leather 

Oils should not be applied to dry leather, as they will 
invariably injure it. If you wish to oil a harness, wet it over 
night, cover it with a blanket, and in the morning it will be 
dry and supple. After this you may apply neat's-foot oil 
in small quantities, using enough elbow grease to insure its 
thorough distribution throughout the leather. Never use 
vegetable oils on leather. Among all the animal oils, neat's- 
foot oil is considered the best. 

Oil for Carriage Wheels 

On the spindles of the axle tree nothing is better than 
castor oil. Little of this should be used, as the spindles fit 
so perfectly into the boxes that but little space is left for 
the lubricator. Never use lard upon any wheel with wood 
hub, as it will penetrate and follow the pores of the timber 
and loosen the spokes. On the fifth wheel, or circle, and 
other places of friction, outside the hubs, coal oil is good 
as a lubricator. 



HOMEMADE POLISHES 131 

Gumless Oil 

To 1 gt sperm oil add 1 gill refined coal oil, and mix 
thoroughly by shaking. This mixture is also very good to 
oil machinery, as it does not gum up. 

Furniture Polishes 

Mix % lb gum shellac and 1 pt alcohol. Keep in warm 
place until gum is dissolved. Moisten a cloth with the polish 
and rub on and over the furniture briskly, polishing with a 
clean, soft flannel. 

Mix equal parts of sweet oil, vinegar and finely powdered 
gum arable. Shake until dissolved and then apply with a rag. 

Mix 4 tablesp sweet oil, 4 tablesp spirits of turpentine, 1 
tablesp lemon juice and 10 drops spirits of ammonia. Shake 
well. Use three cloths in applying. Rub the polish in with 
the first cloth, and polish with second and third cloths. 

Raw linseed oil and spirits of turpentine, % oil and ^ 
turpentine, makes an efficient reviver and gives a fresh appear- 
ance to furniture treated with it. It will also remove finger 
marks. Another good mixture is 1 part alcohol to 3 parts 
sweet oil. Rub on with one flannel rag and polish with 
another. 

Still another is to melt together ^ lb resin, % lb clean 
grease, % pt spirits of turpentine and % pt kerosene. This 
dries hard in a few moments. Apply briskly to clean surfaces. 

Mix thoroughly together equal parts of olive oil and vinegar. 
Rub over the furniture with a soft cotton cloth and wipe it off 
with a piece of flannel. — [J. T., Neb. 

Dissolve cold, with frequent stirring, 1 lb pale shellac and 
1 oz mastic in I pt denatured alcohol. 

Melt Vz lb beeswax and put in I oz alkanet root to color 
it. Then strain and add I/2 gill each of linseed oil and spirits 
of turpentine. Bottle and cork well and shake before using. 
Apply with a small, soft sponge or flannel and rub off with 
a clean cloth. 

Mix 1 pt boiled oil, 4 oz vinegar, 2 oz spirits of camphor, 
1 oz spirits of ammonia and i/^ oz antimony. Shake and let 
stand two or three days before using. — [W. H. L., Minn. 

To 1 oz beeswax add V2 oz castile soap and 1 pt turpentine. 
Cut beeswax and soap fine and place in a qt bottle with the 
turpentine. Let stand 24 hours and shake often. Next day 
fill bottle with water, shake, and let stand over night. It 
should then be of the consistency of thick cream and ready 
for use. — [C. O. D., N H. 

Mix equal parts boiled linseed oil and common vinegar. 
Put a little on a woolen rag and rub the furniture well. — 
XL. E., Mich. 



132 THE HOUSEKEEPER'S REFERENCE BOOK 

To make a brown polisli, mix % pt alcohol, % oz powdered 
resin, % oz gum shellac and a few drops aniline brown. Let 
stand over night, then add % pt raw linseed oil and Vz pt 
spirits of turpentine. Shake well. Apply with one cloth and 
polish with another. — [C. S., Okla. 

A nice piano polish is made of equal proportions of tur- 
pentine, linseed oil and vinegar. Mix thoroughly and rub in 
well with soft flannel cloth. Then polish with chamois skin. 
Polish only a small part of the piano at a time, finishing that 
part before applying polish to next part. 

Pumice stone in lump is excellent for scouring wood in 
finishing work, for domestic scouring, and for reducing corns 
and callous spots on the feet. In powdered form it is the 
best material for scouring down varnish and for cleaning rough 
and dirty or stained hands. 

Furniture Creams and Oils 

Oils are used to freshen or revive oil or wax finished 
furniture. They are applied with a woolen rag and rubbed 
with the grain until the polish appears. For mahogany wood, 
mix 1 pt linseed oil with % lb alkanet root. Put in a warm 
place until color is well mixed with the oil. For oak, mix 
i pt linseed oil and V^ lb beeswax; melt with gentle heat and 
color with a little ocher. 

Cut into small pieces % lb yellow wax; melt it and add 
1 oz powdered black resin. When these are melted, pour 
in, slowly, quite warm, 2 oz linseed oil or spirits of turpen- 
tine, first removing from fire. Keep in covered vessel. Apply 
to well-dusted and cleaned furniture with woolen cloth. In 
a few days it is as firm and glossy as varnish. — [Mrs J. H., 

Mix together 2 oz pearlash, 4 oz soft soap, 1 lb beeswax 
and 1 gal water. Boil until smooth. Linseed oil mixed with 
a little turpentine for general use is the best thing that can 
be employed. Free the furniture from dust, apply with a 
woolen rag and rub. 

To remove stains and spots from furniture, mix Yz pt 
denatured alcohol, % oz each of pulverized resin and gum 
shellac, and % pt linseed oil. Shake well and apply with 
sponge. Sweet oil removes finger marks from varnished 
furniture, and kerosene removes them from oiled furniture. 
Ink spots can be removed with salts of lemon. 

An excellent homemade preparation for cleaning woodwork, 
or furniture, or hardwood floors that are not waxed, is pre- 
pared by shaving up two bars of common soap and dissolving 
them over the fire, then adding 1 tablesp turpentine and I of 
t)oilcd linseed oil. This should be stirred into the water used 
for cleaning and a liberal quantity used. It will give a good 
polish, besides cleansing well. — [L. P., Ore. 




Painting, Staining and Varnishing 

For Wood, Walls and Metals 

'HE occupation of painting, staining and 
varnishing is one that some housewives 
delight in, while others do it to economize 
in the matter of time and money, finding it 
easier to do the work themselves than to 
wait until it suits the convenience of 
mechanic or husband. Mixed paints, stains and var- 
nishes of good quality and almost any desired tint can 
be purchased at such reasonable prices that it hardly 
pays to mix them at home. There may be occasions, 
however, when the following simple directions for plain 
work in and about the house will be welcome. 

Practical Painting Rules 

Cleanse and dry the groundwork thoroughly before begin- 
ning the painting work. Let one coat become perfectly dry 
before applying another. Do not try to paint a light color 
over dark and expect success. Use just as little dryer in 
paint as suffices to do the work. Do not have too much 
paint on brush. Begin at the top of the work and proceed 
downward. Do not be in a hurry. Take time to do the work 
well. 

Paint Brushes 

A brush should never be left in the paint any length of 
time. If it is to be used frequently, it can be kept soft by 
being placed in water or oil. If only needed occasionally, 
clean and put away. A little spirits of turpentine will start 
the paint, and a good washing in a solution of washing soda 
and water completes the operation. Loosen up the bristles. 
It spoils a brush to have its fibers more or less cemented with 
paint. Let dry thoroughly. 



134 THE HOUSEKEEPER'Si REFERENCE BO OK 

KilUng Knots 

In doing indoor work, it is necessary that, before beginning, 
all knots in new woodwork be what is termed "killed," or 
else they will exude pitch when exposed to heat and impair 
the value of the work. In ordinary work a covering of knots 
with gum shellac, dissolved in alcohol and mixed to a cream 
with red lead, is sufficient. Another covering may be made 
of gutta percha, dissolved in ether to a liquid. 

Floor Fillings 

Before painting a floor or laying a carpet, it tends both 
to economy and healthfulness to fill every crack and hole 
in the floor. The even surface saves wear of carpets, and 
there are left no hiding places for insects. Here are some 
good fillers: 

Mix I lb flour with 3 qts water and add 1 tablesp powdered 
alum. Boil five minutes. Soak shredded newspaper in this 
mixture until it is as thick as putty. Placed in cracks of 
floors it will soon harden and can then be stained or painted 
to match floors. — [M. H., S D. 

Dissolve 1 lb common glue in 2 gals water; stir in, when, 
glue has dissolved, enough fine sawdust to make a paste, 
and fill cracks. The paste may be colored to match flooring. 
Or, soak finely shredded paper in water and boil until a soft 
pulp. For every 2 gals add 1 lb glue. Fill cracks solid and 
even with the boards. — [R. M. F., Me. 

Cut old papers, letters and envelopes into small pieces and 
add to every loose qt paper 2 oz gum arable, and boil the 
paper and gum in water until moderately thick. While boil- 
ing hot, pour it into the cracks and let cool. Properly 
smoothed in, the cracks will not be discernible when such 
a filled floor is painted. — [P. B., N Y. 

Sift 2 lb whiting into an earthen bowl; make a hole in 
the middle, and pour in gradually, stirring and pounding all 
the time, enough raw linseed oil to make it the proper 
consistency. Then take a small ball of this putty (size of 
walnut) in your hand, roll it long, like a worm, to the 
right thickness for the space it is to fill, and press it firmly 
into place. Run over it with a blunt broad-bladed knife to 
smooth it, and scrape off surplus. Paint, stain or varnish 
with rest of floor. — [Mrs C. O. D., N H. 

Fill cracks in floor with well-mixed putty. It is easily 
done and wears well. Fill up the nail holes in wood by a 
mixture of fine sawdust and glue. Pound well into the holes, 
and when it gets dry, and a little varnish is put over them, 
they will not be detected. — [M. B. S., N Y. 



PAINTING, STAINING AND VARNISHING 135 

This may be used to fill holes and cracks in furniture and 
may also be applied to floors or wooden partitions, or any 
■wood needing such repairing, before being painted, varnished 
or covered in any way. Mix equal quantities of plaster of 
paris and fresh melted tallow. The tallow may be colored 
the desired tint, with dry mineral paints. 

Reducing Paint 

It is often necessary to reduce paint when the regulation 
means (linseed oil or turpentine) are missing and some 
substitute imperative. A little kerosene oil may be used in 
such emergency, or you may boil a mixture of I lb gum 
shellac, % lb sal soda and 3 parts water. If the shellac does 
not all dissolve, add more soda. Put I pt of this to 1 gal 
of the too thick paint. You can then reduce it to required 
consistency with water. 

To Keep Mixed Paint 

After finishing a piece of work, if some paint is left, pour 
over sufficient raw linseed oil to form a coating % inch thick, 
cover and set away. When needed for use, pour off the oil 
and stir the paint. 

Getting Ready to Paint 

Old wood and walls are usually greasy and smoky. Wash 
with hot soapsuds or a mixture of washing soda and water. 
Putty up all holes and cracks. Where several coats are put 
on, let two or three days elapse between each painting. If 
soapsuds or soda solution does not remove grease, or if 
there is old paint to come off, try a stronger soda mixture, 
hot, applied with a brush and washed off with a mop. Diluted 
ammonia, Vz cup to 1 gal water, will usually remove grease 
and paint, while equal quantities of washing soda and quick- 
lime are always effectual. Before repainting, however, wash 
the wood with diluted vinegar, i/^ cup vinegar to 1 pt water, 
to remove any trace of alkali, and then let dry thoroughly. 

To Remove Paint from Glass 

When the paint brush touches the glass, the spot may be 
readily removed while fresh, with a rag wet with turpentine. 
After the paint has become dry, it may be removed by the 
use of a hot solution of sal soda applied with a flannel rag, 
or small spots may be rubbed off with a coin. 



1136 THE HOUSEKEEPER'S REFERENCE BOOK 

To Wash Paint 

A very good method to wash painted surfaces is to rub 
bath-brick fine, and after you have rubbed some soap on a 
soft, damp flannel rag, dip it in this finely powdered bath- 
brick. Carefully rub the painted surface with this, and rinse 
and dry well. This will remove the grease and dirt speedily, 
without injury to the painted surface. 

Japan Dryer 

Put into 1 gal linseed oil % lb gum shellac, % lb each of 
litharge, burned turkey umber and red lead, and 6 oz sugar 
of lead. Boil in the oil until all are dissolved, probably 4 
hours, then remove from fire and stir in 1 gal turpentine. 

Mixing Paints for Various Tints 

Mix red and black for brown. Brown and white for chest- 
nut. White, yellow and Venetian red for buff. Yellow and 
white for straw. Black, blue and white for pearl gray. Lamp- 
black and white for lead. Lampblack, white and Indigo 
for silver gray. Green and white for pea green. Light green 
and black for dark green. Red, blue and black for olive. 
Yellow and red for orange. Carmine and white for pink. 
Emerald green and white for bright green. Blue, white and 
lake for purple. Venetian red and black for chocolate. Lake, 
white and vermilion for flesh color. White and crimson lake 
for rose color. Blue and lead color for pearl. 

The above must be mixed in varying quantities. A very 
little crimson lake need be added to white to obtain a rose 
tint. It is best to try a small quantity of each paint until 
the correct amounts for the desired tint are found, and then 
proceed with larger quantities. 

Painting Whitewashed Walls 

First, prepare the walls. Scrape off all whitewash possible, 
being careful not to injure plastering, then sandpaper and 
brush off walls. Fill every hole and crack with plaster of 
paris wet with vinegar and water in equal parts. The vinegar 
prevents too swift hardening. For first coat of paint use 2 lb 
white lead to each qt of oil, and 1 gill of some dryer. For 
second coat, 5 lb lead to each qt oil with 1 gill of dryer. 
If a color is desired, add such pigment as will produce the 
tint preferred. Add a little at a time. If a gloss is desired, 
mix a little varnish in last coat, or use varnish in lieu of 
dryer. — [R. P., Fla. 



PAINTING, STAINING AND VARNISHING 137 

Kitchen Floor Di*essings 

This dressing, correctly applied, makes a floor easy to clean 
and less liable to retain dirt. Place on stove ^ gal linseed 
oil and, while hot, add, stirring constantly, either yellow ocher, 
Indian red, or vermilion, until the oil is slightly colored. 
Try a little on a board and add more paint until the desired 
color is obtained. Apply, while hot, to the floor. If it cools 
during the operation, heat it again. Apply with a long-handled 
brush, or place a brush in a mop handle and use it. — 
£L. S. D., Kan. 

To 3 lb of spruce yellow add IVz lb dry white lead, and 
mix well. Dissolve 2 oz glue in 1 qt water. Thicken this 
glue water with the lead mixture until it spreads smoothly 
on a board. Use common paint brushes. It will fill the crev- 
ices and harden in them. When dry, give it a coat of linseed 
oil and let dry. — [W. H. L., Minn. 

Floor Paints 

Use 4 oz best sheet glue, soaked over night in 1 qt water. 
Add this to 3 qts boiling water and stir in 3 lb of any mineral 
paint to make the color you desire. Apply hot, and reheat 
it if it cools while being used. When dry, oil the surface. — 
[T. v.. Wis. 

A good and durable paint for pine floors is made as follows: 
Mix 4 lb French ocher with I gal boiling water, to which 1 oz 
melted glue has been added. Paint the floor while the mix- 
ture is hot, using a whitewash brush for the work. If the 
work is done after supper, it will be perfectly dry by morning; 
or, if painted after dinner, will be dry by night. When dry, 
apply a coat of boiled linseed oil, and use the same brush for 
this work also, first cleaning it, of course, from the ocher. 
The amount given above paints a room 14 ft sq, and 3 qts 
of oil will be required. Some days before painting, all the 
nail holes and cracks should be filled with a mixture of 
sawdust and glue. — [J. J.^ Neb. 

A good floor oil finish is made by boiling together 1 pt 
linseed oil and 2 oz paraffin. Apply with a brush. — ■ 
[A. A. J., Wyo. 

Paint to Stand Boiling Water 

Yellow ocher mixed with linseed oil and a little dryer Is 
the best substance to withstand the application of hot water. 
Mix to the consistency of batter. Let each coat dry thoroughly 
before applying another. 



138 THE HOUSEKEBPER'Si REFERENCE BOOK 

Cheap Inside Paints 

» Milk may be used to mix paint, where economy is an object, 
or where the odor of oil is objectionable. Take dry lead, 
mix with milk, grind by rubbing through a cotton cloth and 
apply. A coat of varnish makes it more durable. — [E. M., 
Mass. 

Dissolve 5 lb gum shellac in 5 gals boiling water, adding 
15 oz saleratus. Mix this with an equal quantity of paint, 
prepared in the usual manner. This is good for cellar, wood- 
work and stairs and ordinary wood floors. — [C. P., Gal. 

White House Paint 

The ingredients are 2 qts skimmed milk, 8 oz fresh slaked 
lime, 6 oz linseed oil, 2 oz white Burgundy pitch, and 3 lb 
Spanish white. Slake the lime in water, expose it to the air, 
and mix in about % of the milk. The oil in which the pitch 
is previously dissolved should be added a little at a time, 
then the rest of the milk, and afterward the Spanish white. 
This makes a cheap paint, and the above quantity is sufficient 
for 30 sq yd, two coats. If other colors are wanted, use 
instead of the Spanish white any other coloring matter. 

Petroleum Paint 

Petroleum is not properly a paint. It is more in the nature 
of a preserver. It penetrates wood and excludes the action of 
air and atmosphere by filling up the pores. No coloring 
matter should ever be mixed with it. Old buildings from 
which the paint is worn off will be preserved by a generous 
coat of petroleum. Put it on with a whitewash brush. Get 
on as much as the wood will absorb. Go over the wood twice. 
It is also a preservative for shingles. 

To Paint Iron 

Mix sufficient lampblack with equal quantities of Japan 
varnish and boiled linseed oil. Apply two coats to the iron. 

To Bronze Radiators and Pipes 

Use ordinary chrome yellow mixed with linseed oil for 
the pipes. When nearly dry, rub in gold or bronze powder 
with a piece of fur. When this is dry, varnish with thin 
copal varnish. — [P. B., N Y. 



PAINTING, STAINING AND VARNISHING 139 

Paiiit for Buried Wood 

The simplest and best paint to prevent wood whicli must 
be put under ground, from decaying, is made of boiled linseed 
oil, into wbicb finely powdered charcoal has been stirred 
until of the proper consistency. Apply with an ordinary paint 
brush. 

Cheap Paint for Coai'se Work 

Tar mixed with yellow ocher, 1-3 ocher to 2-3 liquid tar, ij 

makes a heavy, dark green paint, suitable for outbuildings, 
pens and old fences. — [A. A. I., Wyo. 

Black Stains 

Take % lb logwood chips and boil until the extract is very 
dark. Put on three coats of this extract while boiling hot. 
Allow each coat to dry and then lightly sandpaper it. Next 
put a handful of rusty nails into a stone jar and pour some 
strong vinegar over them. Let them remain a few days and 
brush the resulting solution over the stained wood, which 
will then become black. When dry, it will be a dull, bluish 
black, but a coat of shellac will make it like ebony. 

A good black stain can be made by mixing pounded asphalt 
and mineral naphtha. The more asphalt the blacker the 
stain, but, as it is very volatile, it must be mixed in a corked 
bottle. 

Cover the wood with lampblack ground in gum arable 
water, and when it is dry, polish thoroughly. Or put pieces 
of rusty iron, nails and bolts in good black ink, and let it 
stand two weeks, then rub the wood with the liquid. After 
it is dry, polish. 

Pine can be made to resemble black walnut by putting 
pulverized asphaltum into a bowl with twice its bulk in tur- 
pentine. Keep it warm and shake from time to time until 
dissolved. Strain and apply with a cloth or brush. Try a 
little, and if it is too dark, thin with turpentine. When 
the wood stained is dry, polish with a mixture of 2 parts shellac 
varnish and 1 part boiled oil. Put a few drops on a cloth at 
a time and rub briskly over the wood. 

Mahogany Stains 

Mix together 1 pt boiled linseed oil, 1% gi^s turpentine, 
3 tablesp burnt sienna, 3 tablesp whiting, i/^ tablesp yellow 
ocher, % tablesp Bismarck brown and % teasp aniline black. 

Mix as for cherry, using less red and adding as much burnt 
sienna. Use colors sparingly until sure of your shade. Tlxe 



140 THE HOUSEKEEPER'S REFERENCE BOOK 

sienna gives a dull, soft effect. If too deep brown, add more 
oil and turpentine. 

Add lampblack to Venetian red and linseed oil. Try a 
little and use more of the powders to make darker tints. 
When the desired shade is obtained, use it, let it dry and then 
varnish. 

Mix Yz pt nitric acid, a piece alum size of a walnut and as 
much logwood as will give the desired tint. 

Burnt sienna or Vandyke brown, finely ground in linseed 
oil, and rubbed in with a flannel, stains a pretty color. The 
sienna gives a rich, red brown, and the Vandyke a much 
darker hue. 

Break 2 oz dragon's blood in pieces and put in 1 qt pure 
alcohol. Cork well and let the bottle stand In a warm place 
and shake it frequently. When dissolved it is ready for use. 
It makes an excellent imitation of mahogany. 

Oak and Walniit Stains 

Mix 1 pt boiled linseed oil, 1 1^ gills turpentine, 3 tablesp 
raw umber and 3 tablesp powdered whiting. Try the stains 
on bits of board. The shades may be darkened or lightened 
by increasing or diminishing the amount of coloring matter. 
Use raw umber to make oak and burnt umber for walnut. 

A good oak stain for floors is made as follows: To strong 
lye of wood ashes, add enough copperas to make the desired 
shade. Put on with a mop and varnish vv'hen dry. 

Cherry Stains 

Boil 3 qts rain water and 4 oz annotto in a copper kettle 
until the annotto is dissolved. Put in a piece of potash the 
size of a walnut and keep on fire 30 minutes longer. Bottle 
for use. 

Mix 1/^ gal raw linseed oil, % gal spirits of turpentine and 
1 oz Indian red. Try a little, and if too pale, add more color. 
Give one or two coats and finish by rubbing lightly with sand- 
paper and giving one coat of colorless shellac varnish. 

Yellow Stains 

Boil together for 2 hours 1 gal water, 1 lb French berries 
and V2 oz alum. Use hot. Another recipe is 1 pt spirits of 
wine (alcohol) and I oz turmeric. Let stand 14 days and then 
strain and use. 

For lemon yellow, boil 1 lb barberry root in 5 qts water 
for two hours and then add 1 oz alum. Or boil % lb saffron 
and 1/2 lb French berries in 6 qts water for three hours, then 
add 1-3 oz tartaric acid and the same of alum. Strain and 



PAINTING, STAINING AND VARNISHING 141 

keep in closely corked vessel. Another way Is to mix 1 oz 
picric acid with % oz liquid ammonia and add 2 qts water. 

About Varnishes 

Great care must be taken in making any kind of a varnish 
over a flame that it does not catch fire. Have ready, as a 
precaution, a board large enough to cover the surface of pot. 
If the varnish should catch fire, use board at once to cover 
the pot and remove it from fire. Always remove from fire 
before adding alcohol or turpentine. Any desired color may 
be made by adding a little of any suitable transparent color. 
If too thick, thin oil varnishes with linseed oil; alcohol var- 
nishes with alcohol. 

Care of Varnish and Brushes 

Pveep varnish cans well covered and in a dry place. The 
brushes used and the surface to be varnished must also be 
perfectly dry and free from any water or moisture. Varnishes 
are best applied in a warm place. Cold or dampness will make 
varnish "tacky." Clean brushes by soaking well in several 
baths of turpentine, then wash in alcohol and hang up 
to dry. 

Shellac 

This makes a splendid varnish for fine furniture, guns, etc. 
Moisten cloth with varnish and rub briskly. Twenty coats can 
be applied in as many minutes. It dries in a moment. Can 
be used for weather-beaten signs, cloth, etc. Dry paints may 
be ground in for painting signs on cloth or paper. It holds 
colors and will stand the weather. Put % lb best gum shellac 
in 1 pt alcohol. Cork well, shake occasionally and keep in a 
warm pla«e until shellac is dissolved. 

Clieap Homemade Varnishes 

Boil 1 qt best raw linseed oil 1 hour, then add % lb pow- 
dered pale resin. Stir well, and when dissolved remove from 
fire and add % pt spirits of turpentine. 

This is a clear varnish: Place I pt Canada balsam in a 
wide mouthed bottle. Set in warm place until it thins down. 
The back of a stove is a good place. While warm and thin, 
add I pt spirits of turpentine. Shake well. This is good 
for maps, prints, charts, cards and paper articles. 

To make camphor varnish, carefully heat 12 oz oil of 
lavender and % oz gum camphor in a pan. Stir constantly, 
and while stirring, add 4 oz gum copal, a little at a time. 
If too thick, thin with turpentine. This makes a nice trans- 
parent varnish for muslins, wire gauze and cloth. 



142 THE HOUSEKEEPER'S REFERENCE BOOK 

Elastic varnish is made by adding ^4 lb India rubber, cut 
fine, to 1/4 lb linseed oil, while oil is boiling. When rubber 
is dissolved, remove from fire and add ^ lb turpentine. 
Stir well and then strain. This is a slow dryer, but it makes 
cloth pliable and, in large degree, waterproof. 

Glass varnish is made by mixing white of egg and pulver- 
ized gum tragacanth in equal quantities. Let stand till dis- 
solved. Spread on glass with a brush. A thin solution of 
clear gelatin, applied to a plate of glass, placed horizontally 
until dry, makes a good surface for pen and ink drawings for 
transparencies. 

A polishing varnish is made as follows: Put % oz pow- 
dered sealing wax in 2 oz good alcohol until wax is dissolved. 
This gives a nice glazed polish to leather, paper and straw 
articles. 

Here is a glossy varnish: Melt 1 lb gum shellac in 1 pt 
linseed oil and then add this mixture to 3 pts boiling oil. 
Then add, gradually, % lb red lead, i/^ lb litharge, % lb umber. 
Boil until stringy. This gives paint a very high gloss. 

This is a cheap and common black varnish for rough work 
where a black fluid is needed. Boil 4 lb black pitch and 4 
lb asphaltum (from tar) eight or ten hours, then add 2 gals 
boiled linseed oil, and, very gradually, 214 lb red lead and 2i^' 
lb litharge. Boil three hours longer and thin to free working 
order with spirits of turpentine. It dries in a few moments 
and must be applied briskly. 

Another black varnish good for coal buckets, etc, is made 
of 1 lb asphaltum, ^4 lb lampblack, % lb resin and 1 qt 
turpentine. 

Copal Varnish 

Take I lb copal gum and % ib resin and put them into I qt 
linseed oil. Boil over a slow fire about 15 minutes, then 
add 2 oz sugar of lead and boil 15 minutes longer. Reduce 
to any consistency with turpentine. Wooden pails, given 
three coats of this varnish, will never become water-soaked. 



Black Japan 

Ingredients are 3 oz each of asphaltum and burnt umber, 
and 1 gal boiled linseed oil. Grind the umber with a little of 
the oil, then add it to the asphaltum previously dissolved 
by heat in a small quantity of the oil. Add remainder of 
oil and boil until well mixed. When cool, mix to the proper 
consistency with oil of turpentine. This makes a good, flex- 
ible varnish. 



PAINTING, STAINING AND VARNISHING 143 

Varnish for Trunks and Shoes 

Place V2 lb gum shellac, broken into small bits, in a qt 
jar or jug; cover with alcohol, cork tightly; put on shelf in 
warm place, shaking it several times a day; then add a piece of 
camphor size of hen's egg; shake again and add 1 oz lamp- 
black. It it is too thick when fit for use, in about three days, 
add alcohol to thin it. Pour a little out in a saucer and 
apply to trunk. It will, if good, dry in 5 minutes, giving a 
patent leather-like gloss, and will not come off till it wears 
off. It is durable and can be applied to shoes. It shines 
well, resists water and wears well. Is good to letter trunks 
and boxes and signs with. May be used for many purposes. 

Cheap Varnish for Fai'm Wagons 

Boil any quantity of linseed oil for an hour and to every lb 
of oil add 4 oz clear resin, powdered. Stir until the resin is 
dissolved, and then remove and add 1 oz of turpentine to 
every 16 oz oil. Strain, and when cool, apply it. 

Coachmaker's Varnish 

Melt in an iron pot 16 oz amber, then add to it % pt 
drying linseed oil, boiling hot and 3 oz each of powdered resin 
and asphaltum. Mix well by stirring over the fire, then 
remove. After cooling slightly, add 1 pt warm oil of turpen- 
tine. Mix thoroughly. 

Varnishes for Rough Work 

Any ocher or lead, mixed with coal tar in equal parts and 
thinned with turpentine, makes a nice varnish for any coarse 
work, and preserves wood from dampness. 

Dissolve 31/^ lb clear, pale resin in 1 gal oil of turpentine. 
Or melt together 3, lb resin and % gal drying oil and thin 
with 2 qts turpentine. 

Varnish for Iron and Steel 

Dissolve 10 parts of clear grains of mastic, 5 parts gum 
camphor, 5 parts elemi and 15 parts of sandarac in a sufficient 
quantity of alcohol by letting stand in a corked bottle several 
days and shaking frequently. This varnish is transparent 
and brilliant and will prevent rust. 

Varnishes for Machinery and Tools 

To give a neat and finished look to all kinds of machinery 
or ornamental iron work, take 8 lb asphaltum and melt It 



144 THE HOUSEKEEPBR'Si REFERENCE BOOK 

in an iron kettle; then add 5 gals boiled linseed oil, 1 lb lith- 
arge and % lb sulphate of zinc. Add these slowly or it will 
boil over. Boil over a slow fire two hours, then add 1% lb dark 
umber and boil two hours longer, or until the mass becomes 
quite thick. It may, when cool, be thinned to any desired 
consistency by slowly adding and stirring in some turpentine. 
Melt together 2 oz tallow and 1 oz resin. Strain while hot, 
to get rid of specks. Apply to tools with brush, while 
warm, and it will keep off rust. 

Stonelike Varnish 

The ingredients are 40 parts each of chalk and resin, and 
4 parts linseed oil. Melt together in an iron pot, then add 1 
part each of native oxide of copper and sulphuric acid. Apply 
hot to wood with brush. When dry it will be hard as stone. 

Waterproof Varnishes 

Mix 1 pt turpentine, 1% pts linseed oil, 7 oz litharge and 
1 oz sugar of lead. Strain, apply with a brush, and dry in 
the sun or a warm place. 

Mix 3 parts, by weight, of pale shellac, 1 part spirits of 
sal ammoniac, and 8 parts water. Place in bottle, cork, and 
leave for 12 hours, then place bottle in an earthen vessel over 
a fire and stir until every bit of shellac is dissolved. When 
mixed with about 10 parts water, with the addition of a little 
ocher, it is good for use in preparing oilcloth. It can also 
be used in various combinations to stain wood and make it 
waterproof. 

To 100 parts boiled oil add 5 parts each of finely powdered 
litharge and beeswax. Boil until thick and stringy, then 
pour off the clear varnish. 

To Remove Varnish from Old Work 

Cleaning off old work for repolishing or varnishing is usu- 
ally found difficult, and to occupy considerable time if only 
the scraper and glass paper be used. It can be easily accomw 
plished in a very short time by washing the surface with 
liquid ammonia, applied with a piece of rag. The polish 
will peel off like skin, and leave the wood quite bare. In 
carvings or turned work, after applying the ammonia, use a 
hard brush to remove the varnish. 

To Clean Varnished Surfaces 

Never use soap and water, or any other sharp cleaning prep- 
aration. Instead, use the regular tea you serve at table, 
without milk and sugar. Apply and rub off with a soft, clean 
flannel. 




Paperhattj^in^ and Whitewashing 

Directions for Amateur Workers 

y OR making a home sanitary , clean, and 
sweet, there is no better medium or one so 
easily obtained, as whitewash. A whole 
house may be made pure and wholesome by 
the judicious use of a half dollar's worth of 
lime. At this work, as well as paperhang- 
ing, women worked, without adverse criticism, in the 
past, when woman's occupations were limited to a very 
few branches outside of the domestic. The directions 
here given will be found helpful. 

About Paperhanging 

Paperhanging is more than spreading paste on a piece of 
paper and sticking it upon a wall. The paper must match, be 
free from wrinkles and finger or paste marks. A few rules 
to be observed in choosing paper are that large patterns 
make a small room seem even smaller and that papers present- 
ing sharp contrasts in colors, and very strongly marked pat- 
terns, make a poor background for pictures and an unpleas- 
ing accompaniment to draperies and furniture. The best effect 
is secured by using paper in which colors and pattern are 
quiet and harmonious. Striped paper, without border, makes 
the ceiling appear higher. 

To Measure a Room for Paper 

Measure the width of every side and add the number of ft 
together. Multiply this sum by the hight of room in ft. 
Unless there are a great many doors and windows in the room, 
do not deduct them. There will be some paper wasted and 
these will make an allowance for it. If, however, it be neces- 
sary, for any reason, to deduct them, do so by multiplying 
the hight of each by its width. Add together and deduct 



146 THE HOUSEKEEPER'S REFERENC E BOOK 

the amount from the first result. Then you have the net 
surface to be papered. Divide this by 60 and the result is the 
number of rolls required. 

Preparing Walls 

Old paper should be removed when a new one is going on. 
Wet a tenacious paper with hot water and scrape it off. It 
a wall has been whitewashed, paper will not adhere unless 
the wall is washed with a solution of 1 cup vinegar to 1 qt 
water, or 1 cup salt to 2 q.ts water. It is safest, even then, 
to apply paste to both wall and paper. Every hole in the 
walls should be filled with some good crack filler to keep out 
insects and make paper smooth. 

If you have any rooms that have been whitewashed over 
head, do not work long and laboriously over them, washing 
them off with any "sizing" preparations. It is a messy, hard, 
unnecessary task, more to be dreaded than hanging the new 
paper. Just make a paste of wheat flour and mix it up with 
boiling vinegar instead of water, and add 5 cents' worth of 
glue to the paste for each room. I have seen it done repeat- 
edly, and never an inch of paper peeled off. The vinegar 
neutralizes the lime in the whitewash, and the paper sticks as 
well as to any surface. — [F & H Reader. 

Brushes and Other Tools 

To paper a room the worker will need a good-sized paste 
brush and another one to use dry over the paper, sharp 
scissors and a knife, plenty of clean rags, two barrels, two 
long, smooth and clean boards, each 10 to 12 inches wide, 
or one 2-ft wide board and a stepladder. Make a long table 
by placing the boards on the barrels. 

Trimming and Cutting 

Cut the necessary full-length strips of paper, long enough 
to allow for waste in matching, and lay them all face down on 
the table, one on top of the other. Spread the paste evenly 
over the top or first strip of paper, taking care to cover the 
edges well, then turn down or fold over top and bottom 
parts of this strip evenly, so they will meet, bringing pasted 
parts together and leaving none of it exposed. Trim off edge 
on one side, using sharp scissors, or a sharp knife and a 
long, straight rule. Now lift up the paper thus trimmed and 
folded and you are ready to mount the ladder and put the 
paper on the wall — the largest wall space, next to door or 
window. 



PAPERHANGING AND WHITEWASHING 147 

Hanging the Paper 

Take hold of the top end of the strip, folded and trimmed 
as per above directions (the upper half will open and hang by 
the weight of the lower, still folded half), and adjust it to 
its proper place on the wall, being careful to start it straight. 
Then, with a large, clean rag in your hand, rub downward, 
never up or sideways. If you didn't start straight from the 
top, immediately loosen paper and start over again. Don't 
rub too hard, and do only a little at a time, lifting the paper 
occasionally, so that no air bubbles are left under it. When 
the upper part is done, dismount from ladder, undo the 
folded part at the bottom of the strip of paper, and proceed 
to adjust to the wall in the same manner. Trim with a sharp 
knife along the baseboard. Proceed in this way until all the 
full-length spaces are covered, and then match in the small 
spaces over and below^ doors and windows. 

Pastes for Papering 

Rub 3 pts flour smooth in 2 qts cold water, then add 8 
qts boiling water and let boil slowly about ten minutes, stirring 
constantly. When cold, stir in 2 tablesp powdered alum. 
This is enough to paper a room 16 ft sq. Do not use alum 
for red paper. — [E. M. P., Mo. 

Mix 3 pts flour in 4 pts water until lumps are all out, then 
pour in slowly 8 qts boiling water, stirring constantly. Dis- 
solve 2 oz glue and 2 tablesp alum in boiling water and add 
to the above, also 2 teasp carbolic acid, to guard against 
bugs.— [J. C. v., O. 

Use 3 parts sugar of lead, 3 parts powdered alum, 5 parts 
gum arable and 16 parts wheat flour. Dissolve the gum 
arable in 2 qts warm water and when cool stir in the flour, 
sugar of lead and alum with sufficient water to make a paste 
of proper consistency — neither too thick nor too thin — ^about 
like honey. Boil and then let cool. — [F. E. F., O. 

Mix sifted flour with cold water into a thick, well-blended 
paste. Add boiling water, stirring it in until paste can easily 
be spread with a brush. Then add 2 teasp brown sugar, % 
teasp corrosive sublimate (poison) and 6 drops oil of lavender. 

To ordinary flour paste, add 1 pt molasses to each gal paste. 
Glue may be used instead, in same proportions. The walls 
should be stripped of any old paper, holes filled with putty 
or plaster; then, to insure success, sized with thin glue water 
before applying paper. — [F. B. H., Okla. 

Soften 9 lb finely powdered bole in water enough to cover 
and soften it. Then drain off all surplus water. Boil % lb 
glue in water to make a thin solution of glue. Stir in the 
bole and 1 lb gypsum and force the mass through a coarse 



148 THE HOUSEKEEPE R'S REFERENCE BOOK 

sieve with a brush. Dilute to any desired consistency. This 
paste will adhere even to whitewashed walls. It is the best 
paste to use on old walls. — [S. R. D., La. 

Rye flour is more sticky than wheat flour, and therefore 
more satisfactory to use for pastes. — [A. G., Mass. 

Cover 4 parts, by weight, of glue, with 15 parts cold water, 
and soak for several hours. Warm moderately until the solu- 
tion is clear, then dilute with 60 parts boiling water, well 
stirred in. Prepare a solution of 30 parts starch in 7 times 
as much water, to form a thin liquid free from lumps, and 
pour the boiling glue solution into it, keeping both at a boiling 
temperature. 

A Waterproof Composition 

To render wall paper adaptable for washing with soap and 
water without destroying the colors, make a solution of 2 
parts of borax and 2 parts of stick lac, shellac, or other lae 
in 24 parts of hot water. Sti'ain the solution through a fine 
cloth filter and coat the paper with it several times, rubbing 
the latter with a soft brush after every application till a bril- 
liant polish is obtained. It is immaterial whether the paper 
is already pasted on the walls or still in rolls. 

The Government Whitewash 

Whitewash is the best substitute for paint there is, and 
in many cases serves the purpose quite as well, if not better, 
than expensive paint. That formerly known as the govern- 
ment whitewash has been passed about for some years, made 
notable by the fact that the White House was covered with 
it at one time. There is nothing that can compare with it 
for outside or inside work, and it retains its brilliancy for many 
years. Coloring matter may be put in, and made of any 
shade — Spanish brown, yellow ocher or common clay. 

The making of this v/hitewash is as follows: Take % bu 
unslaked lime, slake with warm water, cover it during the 
process to keep in the steam; strain the liquid through a fine 
sieve or strainer; add 1 pk salt previously well dissolved in 
warm water, 3 lb ground rice boiled to a thin paste ai.d stirred 
in boiling hot; % lb powdered Spanish whiting, and 1 lb glue, 
which has been previously dissolved in a little water over a 
slow fire. Add 5 gals hot water to the mixture, stir well, and 
let it stand for a few days, well covered. It should be put on 
hot. One pt of the mixture will cover a square yard, properly 
applied. Medium small brushes are best. 



PAPERHANGING AND WHITEWASHING 149 



Cellar Whitewash 

Tie 1 gal wheat bran loosely In very thin cheesecloth, and 
boil it for five hours in 5 gals water. As the water boils away, 
add more. Take out the bran, squeezing it well, and dissolve 
in the boiling size 2 oz carbolic acid. Stir well, then put in 
a gill of liquid Prussian blue; stir again, then add % peck 
unslaked lime. Stir, strain through a coarse sieve, and apply 
hot. It is best to take out a gallon at a time, leaving the 
whitewash pot where it will keep hot, but not boil. In apply- 
ing to wood, move the brush with the grain wherever possible. 
Do not try to whitewash a very greasy spot without scouring. 
The wash will cover it up, but in a week will begin to flake 
and crumble. 

Walls previously whitewashed need to be swept very hard 
with a stiff broom so as to remove all loose flakes. Brickwork 
or rock will take twice as much whitewash to the square yard 
as wood. It is poor economy to scant or skimp, especially 
at cracks or along seams of rock wall. Have two brushes, 
one long-handled, one short, with a stubby, round paint brush, 
for use in crannies and tight corners. Grease the hands very 
well before beginning to work, and protect them further with 
gloves of leather or rubber, coming as low as the fingers. 
Whitewash from the top downward, and, in working upon 
the ceiling, keep well back of the brush, on pain of getting a 
splash of whitewash in the eye. 

Outdoor Whitewash 

This is excellent for fences, walls, outbuildings, sheds, 
trellises, rough porches, or orchard tree trunks in need of 
protection from vermin. Break up 1 lb of clean glue in an 
earthen jar, cover it well with cold water, and set the jar in 
a vessel of boiling water. Keep the water-bath simmering 
until the glue is all dissolved — it should be clear, and rope 
slightly. Next morning heat it well, then stir it through 6 
gals hot water. Add 1 pt salt, and when it is thoroughly dis- 
solved pour the liquid, boiling hot, upon I pk unslaked lime, 
in a clean, wooden vessel. Stir hard for ten minutes. Add a 
little Prussian blue if wanted a clear white. Two oz of 
chrome yellow rubbed smooth in a cup of the wash, then well 
mixed with the mass, will give a lively cream color. Lamp- 
black sifted in makes gray, dark or light, according to quan- 
tity. This whitewash will stick either hot or cold, and keeps 
well for some time. It is much better to use it on a clear, 
warm day than one either cloudy or damp. Once the glue 
dries and takes firm hold, it is not easy to get it off, but, 
unless it dries quickly, it will neither look nor last its best. 



15 THE HOUSEKEEPER'S REFERENCE BOOK 

Quicklime Whitewash 

This is a good substitute for white paint inside the house, 
since it sticlfs to wood, planed or rough, and rubs off very little. 
Powder and sift quicklime without slaking, stir 1 qt of it well 
into 1 gal of sweet milk. It ought to be a little thicker than 
cream. If too thick, add more milk; if too thin, more lime. 
After mixing thoroughly, add 1 cup turpentine, stirring hard 
as it goes in. Apply with a paint brush. This is excellent 
for ceilings, upper walls, the inside of kitchen closets, pan- 
tries, dairies and so on. It can be tinted like the outdoor 
whitewash, but is of so soft and clear a white it is more 
agreeable without coloring. 



Lime and Alum Whitewash 

Dissolve 2% lb of alum in boiling water and add it to 
every pailful of whitewash. Lime whitevv^ash should be used 
very thin, and when it is sufficiently bound on the walls by 
means of alum, two thin coats will cover the work better. 
Some whitewashers apply their wash too thick, and do not 
mix a proportionate quantity of alum to bind it, consequently 
the operation of the brush rubs off the first coat in various parts 
and leaves an uneven surface, and the original smooth surface 
of the wall is entirely destroyed. 



Durable Whitewashes 

Add to I pk white stone lime, while it is slaking, 1 lb melted 
tallow and 2 qts strong rock-salt brine. Thin to proper con- 
sistency and apply hot. The tallow repels moisture and the 
salt hardens the lime. 

Put 5 lb unslaked lime in a pail, pour 1 gal water on 
it and let it slack. Take 2 qts of the cooled liquid and add 
water enough to make it creamy. Put in enough Indigo or 
bluing, about 1 cup, to make it the proper color, and also 
add I teasp salt and % teasp lampblack, stirring well. — - 
[P. G., Ala. 

Zinc Whitewash 

Slack % bu fresh lime by pouring over it water sufficient 
to cover it 4 or 5 inches deep. Stir until slaked. Add 2 lb 
sulphate of zinc, dissolved in water. The mixture should be 
as thick as very heavy cream, when ready for use. — ' 
[M. A. P., III. 



PAPERHANGING AN D WHITEWASHING 151 

Fruit Tree Whitewash 

Last spring I made a whitewash for apple trees with water 
in which tobacco steins and refuse tobacco had been boiled, 
using the usual amount of lime required to make a good, 
thick coat on the trees when applied. The effect was beyond 
my expectation. It made the bark look sleek and healtny, 
even on trees that had considerable moss on them, also the 
insects were destroyed on most of the trees. To spray an 
orchard thoroughly in early winter and again in the spring 
with the above whitewash will at least hold many insects 
in check. 

Whitewashing Smoked Walls 

Smoke on walls sometimes strikes through and turns the 
Vv'ash yellow. To prevent this, put 2 oz white pulverized 
vitriol in 2 qts cold water. Wash the walls with a white- 
wash brush dipped in this solution. Let it drj' over night, 
then apply a whitewash made by putting 4 lb white rock 
lime, which is sold in packages, in a pail, covering it with 
hot water and dissolving it. Add to this y^ cup bluing. 
Apply with ordinary whitewash brush. — [W. W., 111. 

To Mend Walls Before Whitewashing 

Mix V2 pt powdered unslaked lime, I gill plaster of paris 
and cold water and vinegar to make a paste. Fill the holes 
with this mixture and smooth off surface with a knife. Work 
swiftly, as it hardens rapidly. — [P. E. F., O. 

Whiting mixed with glue water makes a good putty for 
filling cracks. 

Mixing in Colors 

Whitewashes, kalsomines and all outdoor or indoor washes 
can be colored and tinted to suit. Small quantities of the 
desired color can be obtained from paint dealers at small 
cost. They should be added to the wash and well stirred in 
before it has been thinned, as otherwise the color will form 
in lumps and cause streaky colors. All color washes dry- 
much lighter. To preserve uniformity of tint, stir the wash 
frequently while using. A cup of alum dissolved in boiling 
water and added to each bucket of wash will prevent the 
latter from rubbing off. 

To Prevent Plaster of Paris Hardening 

When using plaster of paris it is often desirable to prevent 
it from hardening too rapidly. This may be easily done by 



152 THE HOUSEKEEPER'S REFERENCE BOOK 

adding a saturated solution of borax to the water. One part 
of the solution to 12 parts of water will prevent hardening for 
15 minutes. When equal parts are used, hardening will not 
take place for 10 or 12 hours. Adding vinegar to the water 
with which plaster of paris is mixed is another way of pre- 
venting rapid hardening. 

To Test Stone Lime 

The heavier the lime, the more certain it is to be good. 
Good lime is greasy or salvey to the touch, while poor lime is 
gritty and dry. When good lime slakes in water, it falls apart 
quickly and causes the water to boil up furiously and give 
out a great quantity of heat. The slaking of poor lime is 
attended with but a slight boiling of the water and a small 
increase of the heat. The quantity of water required to slake 
good lime is nearly one-half its bulk. Good lime when slaked 
will swell to twice its original bulk, and if exposed to water 
continually changed, the lime will be taken up without leaving 
any residue. 

Kalsomining 

This process, similar to whitewashing, gives a superior 
smoothness and gloss to the walls to which it is applied. It 
is suitable in appearance for the nicest house and is not 
costly or hard to apply. All kalsomine should be applied very 
smoothly with a finer and softer brush than is used for 
whitewashing. If it seems too thick to spread easily, add a 
little hot water. Two coats are usually all that are necessary. 
One may be enough. Before applying a new coat of kalsomine, 
wash off the old one with a sponge wet in tepid water. Before 
applying whitewash, if the ceiling has been coated several 
times, these coats must be removed, or the new wash will not 
stick. If the ceiling is smoked, wash it with a solution of 
washing soda and water, 1 tablesp soda to each gal water. If 
there are holes or cracks^ fill them with some good cement 
or wall filler and smooth down with trowel or knife. 

For the kalsomine wash, mix 8 lb whiting and % lb pre- 
pared white glue, adding hot water until it is the consistency 
of cream. — [C. T. L., Iowa. 

Here is another recipe: Dissolve 1 lb white glue in 3 pts 
boiling water; dissolve 20 lb whiting in hot water to con- 
sistency of batter; add the hot glue, 1 cup soft soap, and a 
piece of alum the size of an egg dissolved in a cup of 
water. Mix thoroughly. Cool before using. If too thick 
to spread readily, add water, a little at a time, until it is 
of correct thickness. This amount should cover ceilings 16 
ft square with two coats. — [E. M. T., Kan. 



PAPERHANGING AND WHITEWASHING 153 

Whitewashing Hints 

If put on too thick, it will begin to flake off after a few 
coats have been applied. Cross the stripes of brush each time; 
if you whitewash north and south the first coat, go east and 
west the second. A very little bluing, 1 teasp to 1 gal of the 
wash, may be put in the last coat, to make it a clear white. 

One oz carbolic acid (poison) to 1 gal prepared whitewash 
is useful in whitewashing cellars or any place where odors 
are or may be expected to gather. 

To remove smoke stains from plain, rough ceilings, mix 
1 pt wood ashes in each pail of whitewash before applying 
to ceiling. 

For common work, a mixture may be used of % bu of 
lime slaked with boiling water. Add 1 lb common salt, % 
lb sulphate of zinc, and 1 gal sweet milk. This is cheap, easily 
made and excellent for unpainted fences and outbuildings, 
whether of wood or stone. It may be colored any shade by 
using yellow ocher, lampblack, burnt umber, Prussian blue, 
etc. — [S. I., Okla. 

Mix the lime with fresh, sweet milk and add 1 pt salt to 
each gal whitewash. This makes a wash as white as paint 
and almost as lasting. Apply with ordinary whitewash brush. 
I do my whitewashing in the spring, when I have fresh cows 
come in, so do not have to use milk that could be used for 
the family. — [A. C, Miss. 

Good lime, slaked with sour milk and diluted with water 
to the consistency of ordinary whitewash, is recommended as 
an excellent coating for woodwork. The casein of the milk 
in combination with the lime forms a permanent film, which 
dries quickly in warm weather. 

Never use cheap washes, composed chiefly of lime or whit- 
ing, upon any valuable building, or one that at some future 
time you intend to paint with good material. 

Fireproof Washes 

To 2% parts crystallized sal ammoniac add 1 part white 
vitriol (commercial sulphate of zinc), 2 parts glue, 20 parts 
zinc white and 30 parts water. This can be applied to wood- 
work exposed to open air and will render it partially fireproof, 
or at least very slow to ignite. 

Slake stone lime in a covered tub. When slaked, pass 
through a fine sieve. It will then be a fine powder. To each 
6 qts add 1 qt of rock salt and 1 gal water. Boil and skim 
clean. To each 5 lb of this add I lb pulverized alum and % 
lb copperas; very slowly add to this % lb powdered potash 
and last of all 4 lb of hickory wood ashes or fine sand. Add 
any desired coloring and apply with a large brush. It is 



154 THE HOUSEKEEPER'S REFERENCE BOOK 

as durable as slate and looks as well as nice paint. It is 
incombustible, stops leaks and keeps bricks free from 
dampness. 

A Cheap Color Wash 

To 1 part fine sand add 2 parts wood ashes and 3 parts 
slaked lime. Sift through a fine sieve, mix well and then stir 
in linseed oil to make the mixture about the consistency of 
paint. If the color is wanted darker, add a little lampblack, 
or any other color preferred. This wash is durable, as well 
as cheap, and practically fireproof. Equally good on wood or 
brick, for outbuildings, fences, etc. 

Brick Wash 

To 3 parts Portland or Rosendale cement (if Portland, use 
a little less), add 1 part of fine, clean, sharp sand, mix 
thoroughly and reduce to proper consistency with cold water. 
This will give a granite color. Add any other color desired. 
Apply with a brush and stir the mixture frequently. 

Glue Wash 

Make 1 lb flour into a paste and add I lb hot glue, dissolved 
in warm water over a slow fire. While this mixture is still 
hot, add 1% pts linseed oil. Pour this mixture into 25 lb 
whiting previously mixed to proper consistency in water. 
Should be a little thicker than whitewash. Apply same as 
whitewash. 

Soap and Oil Wash 

This is a good, cheap wash for outbuildings: Mix 1 gal 
soft soap with 2 gals soft, warm water and when dissolved put 
in 1 gal raw linseed oil. Lastly mix in about 25 lb "mineral 
paint" — a powder which can be purchased from paint dealers, 

Compound Mineral Wash 

Make a thin wash of I pk lime, then add 25 lb each of 
whiting, "mineral paint," and finely sifted sand or road dust. 
Mix this to a thick paste with linseed oil and thin with fresh 
buttermilk. The addition of Vz gal soft soap improves this 
wash. 



FAPERHANGING AND WHITEWASHING 155 

Flaxseed "Wash 

Boil % lb flaxseed about two hours In a pail of water, then 
strain and add 2 qts each of common land plaster and sifted 
wood ashes, and 1 cup each of flour and salt. Let stand several 
days and stir frequently, after which it will be ready for use. 



Cheap Fence Wash 

Slake 1 bu white lime and mix it into a good whitewash 
with 40 gals water; add 20 lb Spanish whiting, 17 lb rock salt, 
and 12 lb brown sugar. Stir together well. It does not wash 
off and wears well, and it is adapted to use on outbuildings 
exposed to the weather. To make a cream color, add 3 lb 
yellow ocher; if fawn color is wanted, 4 lb umber, I of Indian 
red and 1 lb lampblack. For gray, add 4 lb raw umber and 2 
of lampblack. This is much more lasting and nearly as cheap 
as whitewash, while it looks much better on fences and 
buildings. 

Boof Composition 

To 1 measure of fine sand add 2 measures sifted wood ashes 
and 3 measures of lime ground up with oil. Mix thoroughly 
and put on with a painter's brush, first a thin coat and then 
a thick one^ after the first one has dried. This is a cheap 
composition and will resist fire. 

ArtiflLcial Stone 

Make sand or gravel into a paste with fluid silicate of soda 
(water glass). Mold to the desired shape and then dip into a 
solution of chloride of calcium. It is said that the mass will 
become solid in a few minutes, and become exceedingly strong 
and durable. 

To Preserve Garden Stakes 

Bring common coal tar to the boiling point in a kettle 
about 12 inches deep. Place the lower part of the stakes in 
the boiling tar, and after they have remained therein about 
10 minutes, take them out, allowing the surplus tar to drain 
off. Roll the tarred parts of the stakes in clean, sharp sand, 
covering every part of the tar. After they have become per- 
fectly dry, give them another coat of tar, completely covering 
the sanded parts. 



ij 



156 THE HOUSEKEEPER'S REFERENCE BOO K 
A Paint Board 

The amateur painter finds her chief difficulty, in painting, 
her liability to smooch parts not meant to be touched. A 
paint board is easily made and is 
a great help. It should be about 
8 in wide, 2 or 3 ft long and about 
% inch thick. Shape a hand hole 
and plane one long edge down sharp. Hold in the left hand 
against top of mopboard, or wherever desired, to protect 
paper or other wood. 



Pop Additional Memoranda 




Glues, Paste and Mucilage 

To Make and to Mend 

LUES are needed in every home and work- 
shop. Tin, glass, wood, leather, and paper 
require different kinds of glues or pastes. 
Sometimes there are also damp-proof, fire- 
proof, or waterproof requirements, as well 
as those of color. These varieties can all 
be easily and inexpensively made at home according to 
the following directions. Under the heading of cements 
a number of other valuable mending recipes will be 
found in another chapter. 

About Glues 

The best glue ever made will be useless if wrongly applied. 
The parts to be united must be clean, and they must be so 
united that no air remains between the parts. When warm 
glues are used the two surfaces to be joined should also be 
warmed. Don't use too much glue, nor too thin, nor too 
thick glue. The parts joined must be firmly held together 
until bone dry. Good glue is always crisp when in the cake 
or flake form and will bear little bending. It should be clear 
and have no taste nor smell. If it dissolves in cold water, it 
is of poor quality. Good glue swells in cold water, but needs 
hot water to dissolve it. Moist glue soon spoils. When a 
job requiring extra care or strength is contemplated, it is 
safest to make a fresh pot of glue. 

The Glue Kettle 

Glue made in vessels set directly upon a stove often cook 
too rapidly or burn. The glue pot should be set in another, 
containing hot water. Even then, incrustation near the top 
of dish often takes place, unless three or four small holes are 
drilled in the side of the kettle near the top rim. Then the 

157 



158 THE HOUSEKEEPER'S REFERENCE BOOK 

rising steam passes through the holes and keeps the kettle 
above the surface of the glue constantly moist. These holes 
should be made in only half of the kettle, so as to provide 
a place for pouring out glue, if desired. A very simple glue 
pot can be made by using a tin cup that will set evenly into 
the top of a teakettle, or it may be placed in a kettle of boiling 
water of any convenient size. 

Break the cakes, flakes or pieces into small bits, place these 
in tepid water and let the glue swell slowly. After it is 
thoroughly softened, set the glue cup into hot water; stir and 
add hot water until it is all dissolved into the consistency of 
medium, thick molasses. 

Liquid Glues 

There are many formulas for preparing glue. The most com- 
mon and easy way is to make the ordinary "hot glue," soaked 
in tepid, and dissolved in hot water to desired consistency. 
A little nitric acid, % oz to each lb glue, will prevent it 
from cooling into a solid mass, and 1 tablesp vinegar to each 
qt prepared glue will prevent molding. 

Place V2 lb dry glue in a wide-mouthed bottle and add % 
pt tepid water. Place the bottle in tepid water and heat until 
the glue dissolves. Remove bottle and gently stir in 2% oz 
nitric acid. Cork tightly. This is always ready and is useful 
in mending furniture and all articles not used for water. 

An excellent liquid glue is made by dissolving glue in nitric 
ether. The solution cannot be made too thick, as the ether 
will only dissolve a certain quantity of glue. It will be of 
about the consistency of molasses, and doubly as tenacious as 
that made with hot water. If a few bits of native India rubber, 
cut into scraps the size of buckshot, be added, and the solution 
allowed to stand a few days, being stirred frequently, it will 
be all the better, and will resist dampness much more effec- 
tually than glue made with water. 

Compound Glues 

Place equal parts of common glue and isinglass into enough 
alcohol to cover them for 24 hours. Melt them together by 
placing vessel in hot water, and when hot, stir in as much 
powdered chalk as will make the mixture an opaque white. 
This makes a very adhesive glue, especially good for white 
articles. 

An adhesive substance termed compound glue can be made 
from flour, white of egg and yeast. Use equal quantities 
of flour and egg and mix with yeast to a doughy consistency, 
so that it can be kneaded. Work in at this stage as much 
gum arable water as it will take. Then dry it in oven and 



GLUE, PASTE AND MUCILAGE 159 

cut into cakes. This may be colored with indigo for blue 
tints; with dry vermilion for red hues, and with tincture saffron 
for yellow. — [R. M., O. 

Melt together 5 parts liquid glue, 2 parts sugar and 8 parts 
water. Cast in molds. Dissolve in warm water when needed. 
This makes a good portable glue. 

Isinglass Glue 

Boil and strain until clear 1 lb best glue; boil also 4 oz 
isinglass until dissolved. Put both in a glue pot with % lb 
dry brown sugar and boil down until it will just pour. Place 
in molds. When cold, cut into small pieces and dry the pieces. 
This glue is liked by architects and artists, as it dilutes at 
once in warm water and can be carried around easily in a box 
or one's pocket. 

Elastic Glue 

Good common glue is dissolved in hot water after soaking ini 
cold. It is then cooked or evaporated down to a thick mass, 
to which a quantity of liquid glycerin, equal in weight with 
the glue, is placed. Then heat again until steam ceases to 
rise, when it may be poured into molds or on a marble slab. 

Fireproof Glue 

Mix 1 cup quicklime in 4 oz linseed oil; boil until thick as 
molasses or thicker. Spread on plates in shade and it will 
become hard. If it does not, boil again. When needed, dis- 
solve over fire. It resists fire after use. 

Waterproof Glue 

Add 1 oz white turpentine to 1 pt alcohol. Dissolve in this 
mixture 1 oz gum sandarac and 1 oz of mastic. Heat these 
to the boiling point carefully, as both liquids are inflammable, 
and add % pt thick liquid glue in which 2 teasp isinglass have 
been stirred. It must be used hot. It dries quickly and 
becomes very hard, so that surfaces of wood united by it do 
not separate in water. 

Glue for Damp Atmosphere 

Add % oz each linseed oil, varnish and turpentine to each, 
lb of glue prepared by mixing and boiling glue and flour in 
equal parts. Labels attached with this glue will adhere in 
the most damp places. 



160 THE HOUSEKEEPER'S REFERENCE BOOK 

Glue for Labeling Glass 

A glue for fastening labels on preserve jars or cans is made 
by soaking 5 parts of good glue in 20 parts of water, then add- 
ing 10 parts white sugar and 5 parts gum arable. Use it luke- 
warm. It keeps well, and when placed on labels adheres 
firmly. 

Glue for Labeling Tin 

Put 2 oz pulverized borax in 1 qt boiling water; add 4 oz 
gum shellac, and boil until it is dissolved. This glue is 
used for parchments, papers and cloth, as well as tin. 

Whisky Glue 

To any quantity of glue use common whisky instead of 
water. Put both together in a bottle, cork tight, and set away 
for three or four days, after which it will be fit for use without 
the application of heat. The whisky will only dissolve a 
given quantity of glue, so there is no danger of using too 
much. 

Marine Glue 

Dissolve 4 oz India rubber in 8 oz coal oil or coal tar naph- 
tha, aiding the solution with heat and agitation. The solution 
is then thick as cream, and to it should be added 1 lb pow- 
dered shellac, which must be heated in the mixture till all 
is dissolved. "When the mixture is hot it is poured on plates 
of metal, in sheets, like leather. It can be kept in that state, 
and when it is required to be used, it should be put into a 
pot and heated until it is soft, and then applied with a brush 
to the surfaces to be joined. It is said that two pieces of 
wood joined with this cement can scarcely be sundered. It 
also resists the action of water. 

Sheet Glue 

This is stronger than mucilage and is handy for quickly 
uniting small, light objects. Dissolve the purest glue you 
can find with V4, its weight of coarse, brown sugar in as small 
a quantity of boiling water as possible. When thoroughly 
dissolved, pour in thin cakes on a slightly oiled metal surface, 
and as it cools, cut it into pieces of convenient size. When 
used, one end may be moistened with mouth or sponge, to 
Tub on surfaces needing uniting. It is handy for travelers, 
and to keep in the work-box or desk. 



GLUE, PASTE AND MUCILAGE 161 

Glue for Stones and Steel 

This glue is used to unite precious stones to metallic sub- 
stances, as in rings, and is recommended as being able to 
unite two metallic surfaces, if desired. Dissolve 6 bits of 
gum mastic, the size of peas, in enough alcohol to make them 
a liquid. In another vessel, dissolve in brandy as much isin- 
glass, softened in water, as will make a strong glue and fill a 
2 07, bottle, adding 2 small bits gum ammoniac. As soon as 
this substance dissolves, unite the two mixtures by heat. Keep 
in a bottle closely corked. When it is to be used, soften by 
setting bottle in hot water and letting it come to a boil. 

Rice Glue 

The Japanese boil rice in water till it is reduced to a thick, 
fine paste. This makes a fine, clear, almost transparent glue, 
very useful in pasting white paper. 

Shellac Substitute 

A solution of cake shellac and alcohol in equal parts, by 
weight, forms a fair substitute for glue, but is far inferior. 
It can, however, be used when glue is unobtainable. 

Easily Made Mucilages 

Mix 3 oz gum arable, 3 oz vinegar and 1 oz white sugar. — • 
[H. W., Pa. 

Dissolve 2 oz gum arable in 4 oz water. Add 2 drops glyce- 
rin to keep it sweet. 

Dissolve 1 heaping teasp gum arable in % cup warm water. 
This is cheaper than store mucilage and the simplest made. 

To make mucilage for labels, mix thoroughly 2 oz dextrine, 
2 oz glycerin, I dram alcohol and 1 oz hot water. — [F. A., 
Ore. 

Commercial Mucilage 

This is made by dissolving clear glue in equal volumes of 
water and strong vinegar; then adding % as much alcohol 
and a small quantity of powdered alum in water. 

Fruit Tree Mucilage 

A good mucilage can be made by using the gum from fruit 
trees. Fill a wide-mouthed bottle half full of the gum and 
pour strong vinegar on it. Keep it well corked. For the 



162 THE HOUSEKEEPER'S REFERENCE BOOK 



brush, put a featlier through the cork and let it remain in 
the bottle. — [L. T. T., N C. 

Pocket Mucilage 

Boil 1/4 lb best white glue in water, and strain. Boil 1 oz 
isinglass in water, strain, and mix the liquids. Place them 
over slight heat, or steam, adding 2 oz white sugar. Let the 
mixture evaporate till thick; then pour into molds and dry. 
;it can be carried in bags, trunks or pockets, dissolves at once 
in water, and fastens paper very firmly. — [T. K., la. 

Gum Arabic Mucilage 

Place % lb gum arable in a qt bottle; pour in water till the 
bottle is % full; then add about a wineglassful of vinegar, 
brandy, whisky, or alcohol, to prevent fermentation. Shake 
occasionally, each day, for a week. This will not spoil. 

Gum Tragacanth Mucilage 

Mix 2 oz gum tragacanth and 1 oz powdered gum arable; 
cover with cold water until dissolved; then reduce with water 
to desired consistency. Four or 5 drops of carbolic acid pre- 
vents its souring. — [R. P., Mass. 

Mucilage for Mounting Photos 

Soak I oz shredded gelatin in % pt cold water two hours. 
Drain off the water and put the gelatin into a wide-mouthed 
bottle, adding % oz glycerin and 10 oz good alcohol. Shake 
occasionally until dissolved. Warm before using. — [Mrs J. H., 
N Y. 

Damp-Proof Mucilage 

Dissolve 5 parts good glue in 20 parts water and to this 
liquid add 9 parts rock candy and 3 parts gum arable. Use 
lukewarm. This is a good mucilage for labels and will adhere 
firmly to glass bottles. 

Paste for General Use 

Dissolve Vz teasp powdered alum in 2 oz water. Moisten 1 
oz starch in 1 oz water. Mix the two liquids and heat it until 
it thickens, stirring constantly, then add 7 drops oil of cloves. 
As soon as removed from fire, strain through a cheesecloth and 
keep in covered bottle. — [A. C., Minn. 



GLUE, PASTE AND MUCILAGE 163 

Paste for Scrap-Books 

Mix together 1 teasp powdered starch, 1 teasp flour and a 
pinch of salt, then stir in 2 tablesp cold water and when 
smooth add M> cup boiling water. Stir and cook until the 
consistency of boiled starch for collars. Remove from fire and 
stir in 3 or 4 drops oil of lavender. 

Tin Box Paste 

To fix labels to tin boxes use either of these formulas: 
Soften good glue in warm water, enough to cover it, boil it in 
strong vinegar, and while boiling, thicken the liquid, which 
should be thin, with fine wheat flour, stirred smooth in cold 
water. Half cup flour will thicken a pt of the mixture. Or, 
use strong starch paste in which a little Venice turpentine has 
been mixed. Or, add sugar or molasses to the paste, in pro- 
portion of 1 qt molasses or 2 lb brown sugar to leach 8 qts 
of paste, 

Damp-Proof Paste 

Prepare a paste of rye flour and liquid glue — 1 part flour 
to 2 of glue. The glue should be prepared with linseed oil, 
•varnish and turpentine, % oz each to a lb of glue. Mix the 
rye flour in water and add it to the glue. This paste is 
damp-proof. 

Stickfast Paste 

Dissolve 1 teasp alum in 1 qt water. When cold, stir in 
enough flour to make paste of the same consistency as thick 
cream. Rub out all lumps and make perfectly smooth. Stir 
in % teasp powdered resin and over all 1 cup boiling water, 
stirring it well. Let boil, and when it becomes thick, pour 
into a jar with a few drops of oil of cloves, and keep in a close 
place. When required for use, take out a little and soften 
with warm water. It is more like a glue than paste, and 
is very useful for household purposes. 

Grafting Wax 

Melt together 5 parts resin, 1 part beeswax and 1 part tallow. 
When ready to use apply the mixture warm. Bandages will 
be required until every part has been well covered with the 
grafting wax, so as to completely exclude the air. 



164 THE HOUSEKEEPER'S REFERENCE BOOK 
Soluble Glass 

Thoroughly mix 10 parts carbonate of potash, 15 parts pow- 
dered quartz and 1 part powdered chareoal. The mass will 
become soluble in 4 or 5 parts boiling water, and the filtered 
solution, evaporated to dryness, yields a transparent glass 
permanent in the air. 

Silver Wash 

The ingredients are 1 oz nitric acid, 1 silver ten-cent piece 
and 1 oz of quicksilver. Put the ingredients in an open glass 
vessel, let stand until dissolved, then add 1 pt water and the 
wash is ready for use. It can be made into a powder by adding 
whiting, and may be used then on brass, copper, German 
silver, etc. 



Pop Additional Memoranda 



Qements, Putty and Solder 

How to Mend Breaks and Tears 



^j^EMENTING and soldering are not such 
m difficult jobs as some people imagine. Any 

^J^ handy man or woman can mend broken, torn 
or worn articles of crockery, glass, wood, 
metal, cloth, paper, leather, rubber, etc., at 
small expense and expenditure of time, with econom- 
ical and satisfactory results. The following recipes are 
varied and thoroughly reliable, if directions are care- 
fully noted. Don't throw away anything that can be 
mended and used again. 

About Cements 

A cement is often dubbed worthless because it has been 
used improperly, and, naturally, has failed to perform the 
work expected of it. Many people use too much cement. 
When broken parts are closely brought together there is left 
small space for the cement, and a small amount should be 
used. If the parts are separated by a sheet of cement, it will 
surely give way. The parts to be joined should be thoroughly 
cleansed and dried before the application of the cement, or 
they will not stick together. The complete seclusion of air 
by pressure, after the cement is applied, is absolutely neces- 
sary to effectual adhesion. When using warm glues or cements, 
be sure to warm the articles to be mended, to about the same 
temperature. 

Farm and Home Cement 

A good cement for mending almost anything may be made 
by mixing together litharge and glycerin, to the consistency 
of thick cream or fresh putty. This cement is useful for 
mending stone jars or any coarse earthen-ware, stopping 
leaks in seams of tin pans and wash boilers, cracks and holes 
in iron kettles, etc. It also may be used to fasten on lamp 



166 THE HOUSEKEEPER'S REFERENCE BOOK 

tops, to tighten loose nuts, to secure bolts whose nuts are 
lost, to tighten loose joints of wood or iron, loose boxes in 
wagon hubs, and in a great many other ways. In all cases 
the articles to be mended should be cleaned and not be used 
until the cement is hardened, which will require from one 
day to a week, according to the quantity used. This cement 
will resist the action of hot or cold water, acids and almost 
any degree of heat. — [M. A. J,, Wis. 

Cementing Dishes with Milk 

Our grandmothers often mended dishes by tying them firmly 
in correct positions and boiling them in milk. Sometimes they 
varied this by soaking the tied dishes in warm, fresh milk 
and allowing them to dry gradually when withdrawn. Some 
glutinous property of the milk, perhaps casein, penetrates to 
>the edges and congeals with tenacious clutch. — [E. K., Mass. 

China and Crockery Cements 

For fine china mix y^ lb rice flour in 2 qts cold water and 
let it boil slowly down to a paste. This is also excellent in 
making white paper boxes or uniting cards, and when made 
to the consistency of plaster clay, models may be formed of 
it, very pretty and durable when dry. — [M. S., Pa. 

Prepare a thick solution of gum arable and into this stir 
plaster of paris until it becomes of the consistency of heavy 
cream. Clean the china to be mended, warm it and apply the 
cement. Tie firmly and set away for three days. 

Mix enough powdered unslaked lime with the white of one 
egg to make a thick cream. Apply to the edges of crockery 
and fasten the pieces firmly together. Make only a little of 
the cement at a time, as it hardens quickly, and then becomes 
useless. — [P. B., N Y. 

For mending crockery and similar articles so that they will 
stand heat and water, use pure white lead mixed in linseed 
oil, and use it very thick. It unites very firmly, but takes a 
long time to set. It is best to place the mended article away 
for several weeks. It will^ if joined correctly, never come 
apart. Prepared white lead can be bought in 1 lb cans, and 
its adhesive qualities are better the longer it is kept. — 
[E. K., Mass. 

Take 2 lb white glue, % lb dry white lead, % lb isinglass, 
% gal soft water, 1 pt alcohol and % pt white varnish. Dis- 
solve the glue and isinglass in water by gentle heat, and 
then stir in the lead. Mix the alcohol with the varnish and 
then stir into the first mixture and mix the whole well 
together. 



CEMENT, PUTTY AND SOLDER 167 

Glass Cements 

Mix powdered glass, in equal quantities, with a concen- 
trated solution of silicate of soda. This will make an acid- 
proof cement. 

An old-fashioned recipe is as follows: Boil a piece of flint 
glass in soft water about 5 minutes, then pound and grind 
it fine on a flat stone, and mix with white of egg to a paste. — 
[E. P., Mass. 

Balsam of fir makes a good cement for joining lenses, 
mounting microscopic objects, or for any glass that will not 
be exposed to washing in hot water. When too thin, thicken 
by gentle evaporation over a fire. — [R. T., Ind. 

A cement for cracks in glass vessels, one that resists mois- 
ture and heat, is prepared by dissolving as muoh casein as 
possible in a cold saturated solution of borax. With this mix- 
ture, paste strips of hog's or bullock's bladder on the cracks, 
and dry with gentle heat. If the vessel is ever to be heated, 
coat the bladder strips on the outside, just before they dry, 
with a paste of a concentrated solution of salsoda and quick- 
lime or plaster of paris. 

Red Cement 

This is largely used in cementing glass to metal, although 
it may be used for cementing purposes generally, where col- 
ored cement is needed. Melt 5 parts of black resin with 1 
part yellow wax; then stir in gradually 1 part red ocher or 
Venetian red in powdered form. This cement requires melt- 
ing again before use, and adheres better if the article on 
which it is to be used is warmed. 

White Cement 

Melt together 1 oz beeswax and 4 parts resin, then add 5 
parts plaster of paris. Warm the edges of the articles to be 
united, and use the cement warm. Let stand three days. 

Gelatin Cement 

Mix together 5 parts clear gelatin and 1 part soluble acid 
chromate of lime. Cover broken edges of crockery with this, 
press together, and expose to sunlight. Dishes mended with 
this may be, with proper care, washed in warm water. The 
cement is said to be insoluble. 

Acid-Proof Cement 

Melt together 1 part pitch and 1 part resin, and then add 
1 part plaster of paris. The ingredients must be of the best, 



168 THE HOUSEKEEPER'S REFERENCE BOOK 

and perfectly dry, to get satisfactory results. Use at once, 
as tills cement hardens quickly. 

Waterproof Cement 

Mix % pt vinegar with % pt sweet milk. Let it stand a 
few minutes, then drain off the whey that has formed and 
add the beaten whites of 3 eggs to it. Beat together and add 
suflScient quicklime to make a thick paste. This is both 
fireproof and waterproof. To be used at once. — [B. J., Ark. 

Cork Cement 

When a cement is to be used to make corks of bottles 
perfectly air-tight, neither the extremely hard or the kind 
softened by chemical vapors is desirable. The best cement 
for such uses is red lead or finely powdered litharge mixed, 
in equal parts, with undiluted glycerin. This makes a hard 
cement and is yet easy to remove. 

Knife Handle Cement 

Mix well 1 tablesp melted beeswax, 4 tablesp powdered resin, 
and 1 tablesp plaster of paris or brick dust. If too stiff, add 
more beeswax, a very little at a time. Fill the hole in handle 
with cement and press the tang of blade down into it. — 
[B. J., Ark. 

Alabaster Cement 

Stir finely powdered plaster of paris into a cream with water. 
This will mend plaster images or join pieces of alabaster or 
marble. The cement hardens very quickly. Put some white 
vinegar into the water, if you do not wish the cement to 
harden so quickly, or use borax in the water. 

Powdered Cement 

Curdle 2 qts skim milk; press out the whey and dry the 
curd by gentle heat, but as quickly as possible. When quite 
dry, grind it to a powder in a coffee mill and mix it with 
1-16 part of its own weight of powdered quicklime; add Vs 
teasp powdered camphor to each oz of the mixture. When 
needed for use, mix to a paste with water and apply imme- 
diately to broken surfaces. 

Cement for Marble 

Mix plaster of paris with shellac previously dissolved in 
alcohol. Plaster of paris mixed with white of egg also makes 
a good cement. Use quickly. 



CEMENT, PUTTY AND SOLDER 169 

Hard Cements 

Take equal ctuantities of white lead and white sand and 
mix with linseed oil to the consistency of putty. It will 
become very hard. 

Powder well-dried clay to fine dust and mix with boiled 
linseed oil. Another cement calls for 2 parts sifted ashes, 3 
parts clay and % part sand, mixed with boiled linseed oil. 
These cements harden quickly. 

liitharge Cement 

For mending small tanks and such things, a good cement is 
made of equal parts of litharge, sifted sand and plaster of 
paris, made into a paste with boiled linseed oil. Mix only as 
much as is wanted at the time. 

Shellac Cements 

Dry shellac makes an excellent waterproof cement for repair- 
ing household articles where metals must be joined to wood, 
bone or porcelain, such as umbrella or cane handles, door 
knobs, knife handles, etc, also for many other things which 
must be cemented together. Ten to 15 cents' worth of flake 
shellac will last for years. Fill the hole in the article to be 
repaired with it, or spread a thin layer of it over the flat 
surface; heat the metal until it will melt the shellac readily, 
press the two together, and when the metal cools, the job is 
done. 

Here's another way: Put fine shellac flakes in a bottle and 
add same quantity fine alcohol. Cork bottle tightly and set 
it in a pitcher of warm water. Shake often, until shellac has 
dissolved. This is a handy, every-ready cement for gen- 
eral use. 

Cement for Small Iieaks and Breaks 

Beat yellow soap and whiting with a little water into a 
thick paste. Or prepare some strong alum water and mix in 
plaster of paris to a thick paste. Or prepare a strong solu- 
tion of gum arable and stir to a paste with plaster of paris. 

Mahogany Cement 

Melt 4 oz of beeswax and add 1 oz of red lead and enough 
yellow ocher to produce tint desired. Gse to fill cracks and 
holes in dark furniture.— [M. O. P., ill. 



170 THE HOUSEKEEPER'Si REFERENCE BOOK 

A No 1 Cement 

Take 2 oz of a thick solution of glue and mix into it 1 oz 
each of linseed oil and varnish, and V^ oz pure turpentine. 
The whole should be gently and carefully boiled together in a 
double boiler. The parts to be cemented should be clamped 
and held together for about two days after they are united 
to allow the cement to become dry. 

Never- Yielding Cement 

Pound calcined oyster shells, sift the powder through a 
fine sieve, and grind it on a marble slab till reduced to the 
finest powder; then take the whites of several eggs, according 
to quantity required; beat them well and having mixed them 
with the powder, form the whole into a kind of paste. With 
this paste join pieces of china, glass, or marble, pressing them 
together for a few minutes. The united parts will stand heat 
and water, and will not come apart if they should fall on 
the ground. 

Armenian Cement 

This glue will strongly unite pieces of glass and china and 
even polished steel. Dissolve 5 or 6 pieces of gum mastic, 
each the size of a large pea, in as much pure alcohol (rectified 
spirits of wine) as will suffice to render it liquid. In another 
vessel dissolve as much isinglass, previously a little softened 
in cold water (though none of the water must be used), in 
French brandy or good rum, as will make 2 oz of very strong 
glue, adding 2 small pieces of gum galbanum or ammoniacum, 
which must be ground until dissolved. Mix everything 
together with sufficient heat to properly incorporate all the 
ingredients. Keep this glue in a closely stoppered bottle, and 
when it is wanted for use, warm it by setting the bottle in 
hot water. 

Indian Cement 

Take 1 lb best glue, the stronger the better, add a little 
water, and boil and strain it. Boil also 4 oz of isinglass 
in a little water, then put both mixtures together, add % lb 
brown sugar, and boil the whole until it gets thick. Pour 
into shallow plates or molds, and when cold cut and dry in 
small pieces for the pocket. The glue may be used by merely 
holding it over steam or wetting it with the mouth. This is 
a most useful and convenient article, being much stronger 
than common glue. It can be used for all sorts of small frac- 
tures and will cement glass or china which will not be expected 



I 



CEMENT , PUTTY AND SOLDER 171 

to resist the action of liot water. It can be used, too, for 
parchment and paper, in lieu of paste. 

Japanese Cement 

Mix smooth best powdered rice with a little cold water, then 
gradually add boiling water until of proper consistency, 
stirring well all the while. Bring to a boil and boil one minute. 
This (Tlue is beautifully white and almost transparent. It is 
well adapted for fancy paper work, which requires a strong 
and colorless cement. 

Persian Cement 

To % oz of the best isinglass add 1% oz strong acetic acid 
(vinegar). Cut the isinglass fine with scissors, and dissolve 
by putting the tin or bottle in hot water. This cement will 
stand water and any amount of rough usage, but not strong 
heat. For joining marble or any similar material, a little of 
the powdered oyster shell (as directed in the Never-Yielding 
Cement recipe), should be added, and the parts made hot 
before joining; the cement to be used as thin as possible. 

Lamp Cement 

This is especially useful in fastening the loosened brass 
tops of lamps in place. Boil 3 parts resin with 1 part caustic 
soda and 5 parts water. This, mixed with half its weight of 
plaster of paris, makes a cement not penetrable by oil and a 
poor conductor of heat. It sets firmly in a short time. Com- 
mon alum melted in an iron spoon over hot coals forms a 
good cement for joining glass and metals together, and it is 
also good to hold glass lamps to their stands. 

Fireproof Stove Cement 

A cement for filling up cracks and holes in stoves is finely 
pulverized binoxide of magnesia, mixed with a strong solution 
of silicate of soda (water clay), so it forms a thick paste. 
Fill the cracks and heat stove slowly. Wood ashes and com- 
mon salt, wet with water will also stop the cracks of a stove. 

Cement for Mending Metal 

Mix 2 parts finely powdered litharge with 1 part very fine, 
clean sand and 1 part quicklime which has been allowed to 
slake spontaneously by exposure to the air. This mixture 
may be kept any length of time without injury. In using it. 



172 THE HOUSEK EEPER'S REFERENCE BOOK 

a portion should be mixed to paste with linseed oil, boiled 
linseed oil preferred. In this st-ate it must be quickly applied, 
as it soon becomes hard. 

Movable Joint Cement 

Where it is necessary to occasionally open a joint in iron, 
an easily removed cement is made by using equal parts of 
red and white lead, ground in linseed oil. Spread on canvas 
or woolen strips, both sides, and place between the parts to 
be joined. 

Cement for Steam Pipe Joints 

The following mixture, it is said, makes a cement imperme- 
able by air or water, hot or cold: Six parts of finely powdered 
graphite, 3 parts slaked lime and 8 parts of sulphur are mixed 
with 7 parts of boiled linseed oil. The mass must be well 
kneaded until the mixture is perfect. 

Cements for Leather 

A good adhesive material for mending boots and shoes may 
be made by melting together 1 lb gutta percha, 4 oz India 
rubber, 2 oz pitch, 1 oz gum shellac and 2 oz linseed oil. Use 
hot. Smear the patch with mixture and press on firmly. Let 
dry thoroughly. 

Here's another: Mix 10 parts bi-sulphide carbon and 1 part 
spirits of turpentine. Add enough gutta percha to make a 
thick, flowing liquid. In joining surfaces, cleanse them of 
grease by placing a woolen cloth on them and applying a hot 
iron to it. Apply this mixture to both surfaces, that of the 
article to be mended and the patch. Press hard until dry. 

Here's still another: Use the best glue; pour on it an 
equal quantity of water; let it soak over night; next day 
melt it over a gentle heat, then add 1 cup white lead to each 
qt of glue mixture. Mix well and add a little vinegar, carbolic 
acid or oil of cloves, to prevent putrefaction. This is good 
for all flexible articles, but does not withstand boiling water 
application, which softens the glue. 

This is a waterproof cement, useful for mending or joining 
leather goods. Melt in an iron vessel equal parts of common 
pitch and gutta percha. Apply while warm. 

Gutta Percha Cement 

A good leather cement is made by dissolving gutta percha 
in chloroform in quantity to make a fluid of honey-like con- 
sistency. When spread it v/ill dry in a few minutes. Heat 



CEMENT, PUTTY AND SOLDER 173 

the surface at a fire or flame until softened and apply them 
together. Small patches of leather can he thus cemented on 
boots, etc, so as almost to defy detection, and shoemakers 
employ it with great success for this purpose. It is water- 
proof and will answer almost everywhere, unless exposed to 
heat, which softens it. 

Sulphide of Carbon Cement 

A good material for cementing leather is made of 10 parts 
sulphide of carbon and 1 part oil of turpentine, with enough 
gutta percha to make a thick, flowing liquid. It should be 
remembered that leather filled with grease cannot be cemented 
as it should be, and where the parts to be united contain oil, 
trim them well, fold a cloth over them and apply a hot iron 
for a short time, then apply the cement to both parts, and 
press together until entirely dry. 

Cement for Belting 

This is a cement for leather belting: Common glue and 
isinglass, equal parts, soaked for ten hours in just enough 
water to cover them; bring gradually to a boiling heat and 
add pure tannin until the whole becomes ropy, or appears like 
the white of eggs. Buff off the surfaces to be joined, apply 
this cement and clamp firmly. Allow one day for drying. 

Cement for Belting 

A cement, made by dissolving India rubber, cut fine, in ben- 
zine, may be used to mend rubber boots and shoes. This 
cement will firmly fasten on the rubber patch. Put the pieces 
of rubber, in a wide-mouthed bottle and fill it about half full 
of the purest benzine. The rubber will swell up almost imme- 
diately, and if well shaken will, in a few days, assume the con- 
sistency of honey. If the rubber does not dissolve, add more 
benzine. If, when dissolved, the cement is too thin, add more 
gum. A piece of rubber I inch in diameter will make 1 
pt of cement. This dries in a few minutes and is very useful 
in uniting pieces of leather, as it is both elastic and durable. 
Another formula calls for powdered shellac, softened in 
ten times its weight of strong water of ammonia, whereby 
a transparent mass is obtained, which becomes fluid after 
keeping some little time^ without the use of hot water. In 
three or four weeks the mixture is perfectly liquid, and, when 
applied, it will be found to soften the rubber. As soon as 
the ammonia evaporates, the rubber hardens again — it is said 
1 quite firmly — and thus becomes impervious both to gases and 



174 THE HOUSEKEEPER'S REFERENCE BOOK 

to liquids. For cementing sheet rubber, or rubber material 
in any shape, to metal, glass and other smooth surfaces, the 
cement is highly recommended. 

This is excellent for placing patches on rubber boots and 
garments, or for joining rubber to any other substance, and 
can also be used as a general cement: Cut 4 oz India rubber 
into shreds and add it to 2 oz linseed oil. It will soften in 
three or four days. When soft, melt 16 oz gutta percha and 
2 oz pitch together and stir with the rubber solution. — 
[Mrs J. H., N y. 

Cement for Cloth 

To be used in renewing cloth on desks, tables, or any attach- 
ing of cloth to wood. Mix 1 lb wheat flour and 1 tablesp 
each of powdered resin and powdered alum to a smooth paste 
with a little cold water. Put over the fire and stir until 
entirely free from lumps. When it is so stiff that a spoon will 
stand upright in it, place in a covered receptacle, else a skin 
will form on its surface. Apply this cement in a thin layer 
to every inch of the surface. Place cloth or leather on it and 
smooth carefully down, to leave no wrinkles. 

Aquarium Cements 

This cement will resist the action of water for any length 
of time. It can be used for fresh or salt water aquariums. 
Mix 1 gill litharge, 1 gill plaster of paris, 1 gill dry, white sand 
and % gill fine powdered rosin. Sift all together and keep 
corked tight until needed. Then make into a putty by adding 
linseed oil in which a little dryer has been mixed. Litharge 
may be used, a tablesp to a pit of oil, as a dryer. Let it 
stand 16 hours or more, after oil is added, before using it. 
Let the tanks stand two or three hours to dry out before 
filling it. 

When an aquarium leaks, coat a piece of flannel with this 
cement and paste it over the leak : Mix to consistency of thick 
paste, 2 parts of white lead, 1 of red lead, and 1 part litharge, 
with sufiicient linseed oil. 

For cementing small tanks, the best mixture is equal parts 
of sand, litharge and plaster of paris, made to a paste with 
boiled linseed oil. 

Cement for Stone 

Melt together 7 parts resin and 1 part beeswax, and then 
mix in a sufficient quantity of plaster of paris. The stones 
should be hot enough to melt the cement, and the pieces 
should be pressed together as closely as possible. 



CEMENT, PUTTY AND SOLDER 175 

Pitch Cement 

Melt together in an iron pan 2 parts common pitch and 1 
part gutta percha, stirring them until thoroughly incorporated, 
and then pour the liquid into cold water. When cold, it is 
black, solid and elastic; but it softens with heat and at 100° 
F. is a thin fluid. It may be used as soft paste or in ai 
liquid state, and answers an excellent purpose in cementing 
metal, glass, porcelain, ivory, etc. It may also be used instead 
of putty in glazing windows. 

Roof Cement 

Melt over a slow fire in an iron pot 4 parts coal tar and 
then add 1 part air-slaked stone lime and 1 part cement. Mix 
well and apply hot. A second coat, after the first coat has 
dried, will insure the stopping of all leaks. Over the last 
coat, as fast as it is put on, sift some sand and pebbles. The 
cement hardens quickly, so the sand must be applied while 
still warm. 

Cement for Gutters and Roof Leaks 

Use boiled paint skins, to which, while hot and thick, add 
one-quarter as much fine sand and lime, sifted. The skins 
form on top of standing mixed paint. Use this cement hot, 
pouring or smearing it on the leaks, and when dry it will 
be as hard and impenetrable as iron. 

Floor Crack Cements 

Take equal parts of air-slaked lime, powdered clay and 
powdered oxide of iron. Mix all together and then mix to a 
stiff paste with water. This is a good crack filler. 

This makes a satisfactory filler for floor cracks: Make a 
boiled paste of % lb flour, 3 qts water and % lb alum, and 
into it stir as much shredded newspaper as it will take up. 
The mixture should be about the consistency of putty. It will 
harden like papier-mache. 

A thick, plastic crack filler is made of 1 part powdered air- 
slaked lime (moisten a piece of lime and let it fall to pieces), 
with 2 parts rye flour and a sufficient quantity of boiled lin- 
seed oil. Mix the dry ingredients well and use the oil hot. 

Cheap Cellar Floor Cements 

When a more expensive cement is inadvisable, take coal 
ashes and mix with water to thickness of ordinary mortar. 
Don't sift the ashes — the stones do no harm. Put this mixture 



176 THE HOUSEKEEPER'S REFERENCE BOOK 

on the earth floor, about 4 inches thick, let it lie 24 hours, 
and then tamp it with a heavy block of wood three or four 
times a day until it is solid. It will last almost as long as 
regular cement and is certainly cleaner and healthier than 
the bare earth, as well as acting as a barrier to the entrance 
of insects and vermin. 

Here is another: Sift 2 bushels lime with 1 bushel coal 
ashes and % bushel loam clay. Mix well and temper with 
water, stirring it into a heap. Let lie a week to partly dry, 
then temper with water again. Heap it up again for three or 
four days, then repeat the water process. It should now 
be smooth and yielding. It makes, using any amount in 
same proportions as given, an excellent cellar floor. It can 
be laid on level ground, and the hotter the weather the better 
the result is likely to be. 

Stormproof Mortar 

Mix together 3 bushels clean, sifted sand with i/^ bushel 
each of good lime and cement. Wet with cold water, mix 
thoroughly, and use at once. 

About Putty 

The use of putty being indispensable, nothing but the best 
should be used. The homemade may be a trifle more expen- 
sive, but being easily made, and so much better than the 
commercial putty, the time and money are well worth while. 
The commercial putty is usually made of Spanish whiting and 
linseed oil. The homemade, containing lead, is much better. 
To make putty especially hard and adhesive, mix it with hot 
glue. This will harden quickly and must be used immediately. 

The Putty Knife 

A good substitute for the putty knife, which is a necessity 
to turn out good finished work, especially on window sashes, 
can be made of an old table knife with the end cut or ground 
down to a triangular point. This knife will be found very 
convenient. 

To Keep Putty 

Do not put putty in paper or cloth, which would absorb the 
oil and render the putty brittle and useless. Oil silk or bladder 
is best to keep putty in, or, failing these, use paper saturated 
with linseed oil, or put in a small, well-covered tin. 



CEMENT, PUTTY AND SOLDER 17_7 

To Remove Old Putty 

To remove old putty from windows, dip a small brush in. 
caustic soda (concentrated lye) and anoint or paint over the 
dry putty. In an hour the putty should be easily removable. 

Another way is to pass a hot iron slowly over the putty. 
Any iron that permits a close contact is allowable. It should 
soften the putty which should be at once removed. Concen- 
trated lye, made of quicklime and potash, in equal parts, 
applied and left on for some hours, will usually rot off the 
putty. 

To Soften Hai'd Putty 

Break it into small lumps, size of an egg; add enough linseed 
oil and water to cover the putty, 1-3 oil to 2-3 water; boil in 
an iron vessel for five minutes, and stir it while hot. The 
oil mixes with the putty. Pour the water off and mold the 
putty into shape. 

To Color Putty 

It is often necessary to color putty. The coloring matter, 
which is usually oil paint, must be mixed with the oil before 
mixing with the putty. Then knead well, to incorporate the 
ingredients. 

A Substitute for Putty 

Mix plaster of paris and water to consistency of cream. Make 
only a small quantity, as it hardens swiftly. Before applying, 
brush the sash or wood with water. For mending windows 
this is a good mixture where putty is unobtainable. 

Filling Cracks and Nail Holes 

As putty is affected by the expansion or contraction of heat 
or cold on metal or wood with which it may be used, it is 
best to first oil or paint them before applying the putty. Let 
the paint dry partially, then put on the putty and brush over 
with paint. 

Imperishable Putty 

Mix 1 part white lead with 10 parts Spanish whiting and 
enough boiled linseed oil to make a mixture of proper con- 
sistency. A little sweet oil added, when mixing, prevents 
the lead from hardening and preserves the putty. 



178 THE HOUSEKEEPER'S REFERENCE BOOK 



About Soldering 

Soldering is not so difficult a job as is often imagined and 
the saving made by a proper use of good material, when needed, 
amounts to qaite a sum in the course of a year. Small house- 
hold outfits can be purchased at reasonable prices from mail 
order houses, or may be gathered together at home. The 
home outfit should consist of solder, a small soldering iron, 
copper, a vial of prepared muriatic acid, a small alcohol lamp 
and a lump of resin. 

Common Bar Solder 

Place in pot or crucible 2 lb of lead and melt it. When 
melted, add 1 lb of tin and melt together. When cool it can 
be applied to tin or iron surfaces -with powdered resin. 

Hard and Soft Solder 

An easily flowing soft solder is composed of lead in 1 part 
and tin in 2 parts. Melt the lead, add the tin and also throw 
in a small bit of resin. The heat of a lamp or candle will 
melt this solder. 

To make hard solder, melt together 2 parts copper to 1 of 
tin. Cool and leave In bars. 

To Make Solder Wire and Drops 

Take a sheet of stiff writing or drawing paper, roll it In a 
conical form, like the cornucopias sold by confectioners, only 
broader in proportion to its length. Make a ring of stiff wire 
to hold it, and attach a handle to this wire. The point of 
cone must be cut off to leave an orifice for the slow egress of 
the solder. When filled with melted solder, if held just above 
the surface of a pail of water, the stream of solder will congeal 
in wire shape. If held a little higher, it will break into 
elongated drops before striking the water. By holding it still 
higher, each drop forms into a thin concave shell. Solder in 
any convenient form may be made in this easy way. 

To Solder Tin 

When a hole appears in a tin pan, scrape the surface bright 
with a knife, sprinkle a little powdered resin over it, lay on 
a bit of solder, hold it over the lamp until it melts and flows 
over the fracture. If the pan is old, or rusty, or greasy, use 
the muriatic acid in place of resin. 



CEMENT, PUTTY AND SOLDER 179 

Gold and Silver Solder 

Put in pot 2 parts pure silver, 1 part clear brass and a small 
piece of borax. Melt and cool into a bar. Solder made from 
silver coin melts with, difficulty. To make liard silver solder, 
melt 4 parts of silver with 1 of copper. To make gold solder, 
melt together 24 parts of gold, 2 of silver and 1 of copper. 

To Solder Brass 

Cut out a piece of tinfoil the size of tlie surface to be 
soldered. Then apply to the surface a solution of sal ammoniac 
for a flux. Place the tinfoil between the pieces and apply a 
bot soldering iron until the tinfoil is melted. — [M. P., 111. 

Oil for Whetstones 

Good, sweet olive oil is commonly used upon whetstones. 
In testing a new stone try water first. If it glazes, oil is 
required. Almost all stones, unless oiled, become glazed or 
burnished on the surface, so that they no longer abrade the 
metal. Most stones, after being oiled, give a finer edge than 
they do in a dry or merely wet state. A dry stone is very apt 
to give a wire edge to a tool. Some stones, however, work 
better with water than with oil. Therefore, the test should 
be made before the oil is used. 



Pop Tldditional Memoranda 



180 THE HOUSEKEEPER'S REFERENCE BOOK 



For Additional Memoranda 



I 




Dyes, Inks and Sealing Wax 

Combining Home Art with Economy 

N case the housekeeper cannot obtain the 
simple dyes, inks, or sealing wax she re- 
quires from the home dealer in such articles, 
she need only turn to this chapter, and, 
after a brief visit to the fields or drug store, 
she will be ready to prepare the necessary article 
herself, and very likely do the work cheaper than she 
could have it done outside. Many a penny could be 
saved if faded garments were dyed instead of being dis- 
carded, and thus put into shape to remodel and use 
again. Inks of various colors, for home and school use, 
can also be made easily and cheaply, by following direc- 
tions here given. 

Home Dyes and Dyeing 

Various prepared dyes for wool, cotton and silk may be 
procured so easily and at such a small cost in these days that 
most housekeepers prefer purchasing the commercial dyes to 
making them at home. Still, the housewifely art of dyeing 
is not entirely extinct, and therefore no book of household 
help would be complete unless it contained a few of the simpler 
directions for dyes and dyeing. Many good garments are 
discarded v/hen the expenditure of a few dimes and a little 
time would make them as good as new. A garment may even 
be dyed several times by using a darker color at each dyeing. 
In some cases the old color can be removed by boiling the goods 
in very weak lye water, or using a manufactured bleach which 
is specially made for this purpose. In using any dye, manu- 
factured or homemade, always be careful to follow directions 
exactly. These directions are carefully compiled, and devia- 
tions mean failure. 



I 



182 THE HOUSEKEEPER'S REFERENCE BOOK 

To Prepare Goods for Dyeing 

Never attempt to dye soiled goods or garments. They should 
be first thoroughly washed in warm soapsuds, rinsed through 
several warm waters, and then hung up to dry. When they 
are half dry they are ready for the dye bath. This bath 
should be boiling hot and of sufficient quantity to cover the 
goods well. Put all the goods in at one time and punch and 
stir them with a stick, so as to keep them well under the dye 
bath, and evenly distributed. It is best to dye a little piece 
of the goods first, as a test, and to know the length of time 
required to secure the desired shade. Cotton or linen goods 
should never be put in any dye containing sulphuric acid, for 
it will rot the fabric. It has, however, no injurious effect upon 
silk and wool. 

To Dye Straw Hats Black 

Put the straw hats, which should first have been brushed 
and cleaned, into a boiling bath of logwood for four hours; 
then remove, and give them an airing, and add a little cop- 
peras to the bath solution, after which return the hat to the 
bath, repeat the boiling, and then allow the liquid to cool down 
with the hat in it. After drying the hat, dress it with a sponge 
moistened with sweet olive oil. Use very little of the oil, and 
dress the hat on both sides, after which press into shape. 

Black Dye from Butternut Bark 

Boil a large iron kettleful of butternut bark for four hours, 
then strain out the bark shells and into the liquid put about 
a spoonful of copperas. A deep black may require a little 
more copperas, but great care must be used, as too much 
will rot the goods. While the dye is boiling, put in the goods 
to be dyed, and keep punching and stirring and moving about, 
so that all parts may be dyed evenly. If left folded or packed 
too tight, the goods will be spotted. 

Yellow Golden-rod Dye 

Country housekeepers have for many years used the full- 
blown flov/ers of the golden-rod to obtain a nice yellow dye 
for carpets, etc. Gather the full blown flowers, boil them with 
water in a brass or copper kettle, then strain and boil the 
goods to be dyed in the liquid about one-half or three-fourths 
hour. After the goods have dried, set the color by plunging 
them in alum water. This is another way to obtain yellow- 
shades : Cut into small pieces i^ bu of the inside bark of 
trees, place in a wash Doiler, fill up % full with soft 



DYES, INKS AND SEALING WAX 183 

water, and let boil ei^ht hours, then strain. Dissolve 3 oz 
of alum in I gal warm water, wring the goods through this 
wash, and then place in the dye and stir and move around 
well. After they have boiled in the dye five minutes, hang 
out to dry. This will make a fast color in either wool or 
cotton. 

To Color White Goods Green 

Take 2 pails and put 6 qts of lukewarm water in each. Into 
one of them put 3 oz sugar of lead, into the other put 6 oz 
bichromate of potash. When thoroughly dissolved, dip the 
fabric first into the lead water, then in the potash bath, then 
in the lead water again, then in the potash bath again, and 
so on, back and forth, till the color suits. It will make a 
beautiful yellow. After this make a strong bluing water with 
liquid bluing, and dip the yellow fabric in this, and it will 
turn a pretty green. Or instead of the liquid bluing bath, 
you can fix up a bath of Prussian blue, using 4 oz to each gal 
of soft water. Keep the yellow goods in this until you get 
the green shade desired. 

To Dye Furs 

Prepare some lye strong enough to bear up an egg. To 1 
gal of this lye add 2 qts soft water and heat all in an iron 
kettle. In this lye bath dissolve, one at a time, 1 oz of acetate 
of lead, 1 oz of sulphate of iron and 7 oz of litharge. These 
ingredients should all be pulverized. When the bath is blood 
warm, put in the cleaned furs a few moments only, then 
take them out, air them, and dip them in strong vinegar, after 
which slick them off and hang them out to dry. The dye 
can be made stronger by adding more of the ingredients, and 
by brushing some of it on the fur afterward, if it is not dark 
enough. Remember that fur hides should always be handled 
with the greatest care. 

To Dye Wood and Wicker Ware 

Unpainted wicker or wood can be successfully dyed with the 
commercial or homemade dyes. Wet the surface with clear, 
hot water before applying dye, to make it take the color eveniy. 
If the surface to be dyed has been painted or varnished, this 
material must be removed before dyeing. (See chapter on 
paints and varnishes.) 

To Color Bags Yellow 

This is for white rags only. For 1 lb of rags use 3 oz of 
alum dissolved in sufficient water. Immerse the clean rags ia 



184 THE HOUSEKEEPER'S REFERENCE BOOK 

this over nig'ht. Next morning put a large handful of smart- 
weed in a new tin pan, cover with water, let steep one hour, 
and then strain through a cloth. Wring the rags from the 
alum bath and put them in this prepared smartweed water, 
and keep well covered, stirring frecLuently. Let stand one 
hour, then wring out and hang up to dry. To color the rags 
brown, follow the same directions as above, using butternut 
bark instead of the smartweed. — [M. W., Vt. 

Copper Color and Yellow 

Prepare some weak ash lye and add 4 oz copperas to every 
6 qts of this lye. Immerse the goods in this bath and boil for 
20 minutes. This will produce a pretty copper color. If you 
want a nice yellow, boil the flowers of golden-rod in the water, 
about 45 to 50 minutes. After the dyed goods have dried, 
soak them in alum water, to set the color. — [B. J,, Ark. 

Pink Dye 

To 3 parts cream of tartar add 1 part cochineal. Mix well 
together and then put about 1 teasp of this mixture in a little 
muslin bag and steep it in 1 qt boiling water. Into this bath 
dip the articles to be colored, which were previously cleaned 
and dipped in alum water. If you want the dyed article to be 
stiff, put a little gum arable in the dye bath. — [A. S. B., Mass. 

Black Dye 

Allow 1 oz blue vitriol to 1 lb extract of logwood. Dissolve 
the logwood in 5 gals water and boil in clean iron vessel. 
Add 1 tablesp pulverized copperas. Dissolve the vitriol in a 
separate vessel in 5 gals water and let boil. Scald the material 
first in the vitriol water and then in the logwood, letting it 
remain two hours in the logwood. The goods can be set by 
washing in a strong lather of homemade soap, and afterward 
dipping in salt and water, 1 cup salt to 2 pails water. 

Brown Dyes 

1 — ^A decoction of oak bark dyes will make a fast color for 
wool, in various shades, according to the amount used. 2 — ^A 
decoction of walnut bark dyes wool and silk brown. Both this 
and the preceding are brightened by passing through a rinse 
of alum water, 1 teasp powdered alum to 2 qts water. 3 — 
A decoction of horse-chestnut shells will impart a nice brown 
color. 



DYES, INKS AND SEALING WAX 185 



To Color Carpet Rags 

RED — Carpet rags may be dyed a bright red as follows: 
Take 2i^ lb of redwood chips, put them in a brass kettle, cover 
well with water and let them soak over night. Next morning 
add 1^ lb powdered alum and boil till the strength of the chips 
is boiled out in the water. Strain out the chips and put the 
rags in the dye and simmer, airing occasionally, until bright 
enough to suit. This will color 6 or 7 lb of rags. 

BROWN — To color brown, for 4 lb of rags, take i^ bu 
butternut bark (use walnut and butternut bark, half and half, 
if you want a darker shade), cover with hot water and steep 
till the strength is out. Then put in the rags and steep an 
hour, take them out and add I oz copperas to the liquor, and 
bring it to a boil. Put in the rags again and simmer until 
dark enough. It is claimed that scaly moss from rocks and 
ledges will color a pretty brown that will not fade. Simply 
gather the moss, put it in a brass kettle or tin pan, cover with 
cold water and let boil three or four hours. Skim out the 
moss, put in the goods and boil until you have the desired 
color. 

DRAB — ^^To color a pretty drab, take i/4 lb of cheap green 
tea, steep in 1 gal water in a brass kettle, then add 2 tablesp 
copperas and skim thoroughly. Put in the goods, stir and 
air till properly dyed. If this should not be dark enough, add 
more tea. This will color 5 lb of rags. 

BLUE — To make a blue that will not fade, for 1 lb of 
rags take 1 oz Prussian blue, i/^ oz oxalic acid, pulverize them 
together, and dissolve in hot water sufficient to cover the goods. 
Stir the rags in this dye until they are the desired shade, then 
wring out and rinse in alum water. 

BUFF — To color nankeen, fill a good-sized brass kettle with 
small pieces of white birch bark and let steep 24 hours, but 
not boil. Then skim out the bark, wet the rags thoroughly 
in moderately strong soapsuds and put them into the dye. 
Stir and air them often, until dark enough, then wash in 
soapsuds again. This is very pretty and inexpensive and 
does not fade. 

GREEN — Carpet rags can be dyed a "copperas" color by 
using this simple recipe: Dissolve % lb copperas in a bucket- 
ful of hot water. Also have ready a bucketful of lye made 
from wood ashes. First dip the rags in the lye, then dry 
in the sun and then dip them in the lye again, etc, alternately 
dipping them into the lye and copperas water until you have 
the desired color. The process is more satisfactory if the 
rags are dried after each dipping. 

YELLOW — Half lb sugar of lead dissolved in hot water, 
% lb bichromate of potash dissolved in a vessel of wood in 



186 THE HOUSEKEEPER'S REFERENCE BOOK 

cold water. Dip goods first in lead solution, wring out and 
then dip in potash. Do this alternately until desired shade 
is obtained. To make the yellow a bright orange, slake 
quicklime, drain off clear, add water enough so the goods 
will not be crowded and keep at a scalding heat for about 
an hour. 

BLACK — A nice black dye may be made by soaking logwood 
chips in warm, soft water one day to extract the strength. 
Strain the liquid and put in the rags to be dyed and let them 
soak thoroughly, turning them often and moving them about 
thoroughly. After the rags are well saturated with the dye, 
take out the goods and air them. Add to the dye bath about 
1 ounce of copperas, and when dissolved put the rags in again, 
proceeding as before. After dyeing enough, hang them out 
and when dry, wash in suds and sweet milk and then rinse 
and hang out to dry. 

About Inks 

All ingredients for inks should be good and used carefully 
in proper proportions to secure best results. Remember that 
mold is a vegetable product, and that whatever kills vegeta- 
tion protects ink from mold. Small quantities of creosote, 
carbolic acid, oil of cloves, acetic acid or alcohol are effective, 
recollecting that most of these articles are poisons and should 
be carefully handled. 

Plain Writing Ink 

Boil 8 oz coarse powdered nutgalls and 4 oz logwood 
chips in 12 pts rain water for one hour, then strain the product 
and add 4 oz green copperas, 3 oz powdered gum arable, 1 
oz blue vitriol and 1 oz coarse sugar. Stir until everything 
is dissolved, then let it stand for 24 hours, after which strain 
and put in stone bottles, well corked. 

Black Inks 

Boil slowly for 15 minutes, 2 oz extract of logwood in 1 gal 
soft water. Dissolve in a cup of hot water 24 grs bichromate 
of potash and 12 grs prussiate of potash, and stir this into the 
first liquid a few moments before removing from fire. Strain 
twice through cotton cloth. This ink is jet black and indelible. 

Put into a stone jar with 1 gal water, % lb bruised nutgalls. 
Let stand 24 hours, then add 6 oz gum arable and leave for 
24 hours longer. Next add 6 oz copperas, 6 oz gum arable 
and 5 drops of creosote. Do not use for two or three weeks, 
but shake up well every two days. At the end of these 
weeks, allow it to settle and you have a fine black ink. 



DYES, INKS AND SEALING WAX 187 

Boil 1 lb logwood two hours witli 7 lb water. Renew water 
as it evaporates. After cooling, add 50 grs yellow chromate 
of potash and strain through a cloth. 

Take one package of any standard slate dye and dissolve 
in 1 pt of soft, boiling water. It will make a pt of excellent 
jet black ink, at a cost of 10 cents. — [M. A. J., Wis. 

The ingredients for a cheap, black ink are 2 oz extract of 
logwood, % oz sulphate of potash and 1 gal boiling water. 
Mix well. This is an excellent ink and will cost about 15 to 
20 cents a gallon. 

Blue Ink 

The soluble commercial indigo makes a good blue ink when 
slightly diluted with water. It flows freely and does not cor- 
rode steel pens. Another way is to mix together 3 oz of 
Chinese blue, % oz pure oxalic acid, 1 oz powdered gum 
arable and 6 pts water. 

Steel Blue Ink 

Procure from your druggist an ounce of the extract of log- 
wood, which can be had very cheaply. Buy also an ounce of 
bichromate of potash. (Be sure to ask for the bichromate of 
potash, and do not make the mistake of getting the simple 
chromate of potash.) Take % oz of the extract of logwood 
and 10 grains of bichromate of potash, and dissolve in 1 qt hot 
rain water. When cold, pour into glass bottle and leave it 
uncorked for one or two weeks. Exposure to the air is indis- 
pensable. When ready to use the ink is at first an intense 
steel blue, but becomes quite black. 

Red Ink 

Mix together 2 grs best carmine, % oz rain water, 20 drops 
ammonia water and a little dissolved gum arable. Shake 
well and then strain. 

Violet Ink 

Boil 16 oz of logwood in 3 qts of rain water down to 3 pts, 
then add 3 oz of clean gum arable and 5 oz of powdered alum. 
Shake well until dissolved. It would be well to strain through 
a fine sieve. — [P. B., N Y. 

Green Ink 

Steep the inner bark of black oak until a yellow decoction 
is secured. By adding to this an equal quantity of strong 
prepared indigo, a beautiful green ink is made. — [P. D., Me. 



188 THE HOUSEKEEPER'S REFERENCE BOOK 

White Ink 

Mix pure flake white with water containing enough gum 
arabic to prevent the immediate settling of the substance. 
Five cents' worth of the flake white will usually make an 
ordinary bottle of the ink. — [M. A. J., Wis, 

Silver Ink 

Mix 1 oz of the finest pewter or block tin in shavings, with 
2 oz of quick silver, till all becomes fluid, then add to it suf- 
ficient gum arabic water to reduce to proper consistency. — > 
[P. B., N Y. 

Secret Inks 

Mix equal quantities of sulphate of copper and sal ammoniac 
and dissolve in water. Writing done with this ink is invis- 
ible until the paper is heated, when the writing will turn yel- 
low. Lemon juice, milk, juice of onions and some other 
liquids become black when the writing is held to the fire. 
To make invisible ink for postal cards, take 2 oz water, % 
oz cobalt dissolved in a little muriatic acid and i/^ dram 
mucilage of gum acacia. Write on postal with this liquid 
and it will remain invisible until heated. On cooling, it becomes 
invisible again. — [M. A. J., Wis. 

Maple Bark Ink 

A good homemade ink can be made by peeling the bark 
from a soft maple tree. Put the bark in an iron kettle, cover 
with water, boil one hour, and then strain and put in copperas 
enough to make it a jet black. When cold put into a bottle 
and cork tight. — [M. W., Vt. 

Substitutes for Ink 

Put a couple of iron nails in 1 teasp of sharp vinegar. In 
half an hour pour in 1 tablesp strong tea. This makes a 
pretty good substitute for ink. To make an inexpensive violet 
ink, take the stubs of indelible pencils, that the children have 
left from school, about 2 or 3 inches for an ink bottle. Add 
2 parts water and 1 part alcohol. To make traveler's ink, 
soak pieces of thick blotting paper in black ink. Let them 
dry and then place them in a small tin box. When traveling, 
where ink is not easily procured, but is needed for use, soak 
one or more of these bits in a little water and you will have 
a fairly good ink. — [E. K., Mass. 



DYES, INKS AND SEALING WAX 189 

Copying Ink 

Dissolve V2 oz gum arable and 20 grains Spanish licorice in 
13 drams water. Then add 1 dram lampblack previously 
mixed with 1 teasp sherry. Another way is to take 3 parts 
common black ink and mix it with 1 part sugar candy. 

Printing Ink 

This is a good ink for common printing purposes and is very 
cheap. Simply mix together equal parts of lampblack and 
oil, keeping the mixture on the fire until reduced to the right 
consistency. 

Ink for Marking Linen or Paper 

Dissolve 1 part asphaltum in 4 parts oil of turpentine. Add 
powdered lampblack sufficient to render of proper consistency 
to print with type on linen. To make ink for marking pack- 
ages, take lampblack and mix thoroughly with sufficient tur- 
pentine to make it thin enough to flow from the brush. Pow- 
dered ultra-marine blue makes a fine blue marking ink. — 
[M. A. J., Wis. 

Ink for Zinc Garden Labels 

Mix in an earthenware mortar or vessel, 1 oz verdigris, 1 oz 
sal ammoniac, % oz lampblack and % pt water. Shake each 
time before using, and use with a clean quill pen on bright 
zinc. 

About Sealing Wax 

When a scented wax is preferred, add to any of the follow- 
ing formulas 1 oz balsam of Peru or liquid storax, when 
partly cool. The variegated kinds are usually scented with 
a little essence of musk or any other preferred fragrant oil. 
Sealing wax adulterated largely with rosin or containing much 
turpentine, runs into thin drops on being applied to flame. 
The old style tin cans, sometimes used for fruit, can be sealed 
perfectly with sealing wax, which can be removed and used 
a second time when desired. 

Red Sealing Wax 

Melt 4 oz pale powdered shellac in a copper pan over a slow 
fire. When melted, add 1% oz Venice turpentine, and then 
3 oz vermilion. Cool a little, make into pieces of desired 
weight, and roll into stick shape on a warm marble slab, or 



190 THE HOUSEKEEPER'S REFERENCE BOOK 

pour into molds while hot. Here's another recipe for red 
sealing wax: Mix in same manner as above, 3 lb shellac, 19 
oz Venice turpentine, and 2 lb finest cinnabar. Or mix as 
before, 2 lb resin, 1 lb shellac, % lb red lead and Venice 
turpentine. 

Still another recipe for red sealing wax is as follows: Mix 
2 parts powdered shellac, 1 part each of resin and vermilion. 
Melt them together over a slow fire and when thoroughly 
mixed and partly cool, work into bars. If black is preferred, 
substitute ivory black for vermilion. 

Soft, red sealing wax is made by mixing 8 parts beeswax 
with 5 parts olive oil. Melt together and add 15 parts Venice 
turpentine. Add red lead to color as desired. Green is made 
by substituting verdigris for red lead. These are much in use 
for sealing documents and also as a cement. 

Black Sealing Wax 

Mix as directed above, 60 parts shellac, 30 parts very fine 
ivory black, and 20 parts Venice turpentine. Or substitute 
lampblack for ivory. Black sealing wax, good to cover bottles, 
is made by mixing as usual 1% lb black resin, % oz beeswax 
and 1/4 Ih fine ivory black. Marbled sealing wax is made by 
mixing two or three different colors, as they begin to solidify. 



For 2ldditional Memoranda 




Personal Hygiene 

Homemade Cosmetics and Soap 

■O many busy housekeepers neglect to pay 
sufficient attention to their own personal 
appearance and comfort that a chapter on 
this subject is not out of place in a book 
of household reference. We are not all 
born beauties, but neither are we born homely, unless 
the case be abnormal. A clean, healthy and pleasant 
person is never homely, while on the other hand a 
slovenly, sickly or cranky person is never pretty. 
However our features may differ, if we are normal, -we 
all have hands and feet and hair and complexion that 
need attention to keep them in good shape or order. The 
following toilet hints will be found helpful by those who 
are desirous of preserving in best condition the exterior 
or " shell " that nature provided. 

The Complexion 

The complexion is generally a pretty good indication of the 
health of the individual. No one in poor health can have a 
really good, clear complexion. The complexion that is "put 
on" deceives no one and only renders the wearer ridiculous. 
Some points to be remembered by those who would secure or 
preserve a good complexion are as follows: Keep bowels 
regular by natural methods; drink little coffee or tea, but 
plenty fresh buttermilk or pure water; eat liberally of fruit 
and vegetables, but stint yourself on red meats; exercise regu- 
larly in the open air and sleep enough and in well-ventilated 
room; wash your face carefully and thoroughly, and use onl^ 
pure soap and water. 

191 



192 THE HOUSEKEEPER'S REFERENCE BOOK 

To Wash the Face 

The usual quick wash in the morning is not sufficient to 
keep the skin of the face in fine condition. Every evening, 
before retiring, wash the face thoroughly in clean, hot water 
to which a very little borax has been added, and use a pure 
castile or ivory soap. Rinse thoroughly in clear, cold water 
and dry gently, always rubbing upward, never downward. 
Finish by gently massaging with a little cold cream of the 
best quality, then wipe off with a soft handkerchief. The hot 
wash opens the pores and removes the tiny particles of dirt 
lodged therein; the cold water closes the pores and removes 
the soap, and the cold cream makes the skin soft and fair. 
The upward massaging prevents the muscles from sagging. 
The water and soap used must be clean and pure. 

To Remove "Black-Heads" 

The so-called "black-heads," so disfiguring to the face, are 
nothing more nor less than plain dirt, stopping up the pores 
like corks. Pimples may be the result of impure blood, poor 
digestion or constipation, but black-heads have none of these 
causes, though they may develop into or cause pimples, because 
they cork up the secretions of the skin, which set up inflam- 
mation. To remove the black-heads, there is nothing better 
than a daily scrubbing of the face with hot water, pure, white 
soap, and a complexion brush, the latter not too soft nor too 
hard. The scrubbing is like any other scrubbing operation, 
but must not be too harsh nor too vigorous. Use a gentle, 
firm, circular, upward motion. Rinse thoroughly in several 
tepid waters, and then apply cold cream. Do this before 
retiring, and the next morning wash gently in warm water 
(use no soap) and rinse in cold water, after which apply a 
little astringent toilet water. If the skin is tender and sensi- 
tive, a scrubbing two or three times a week is enough. 

To Remove Pimples 

Pimples or boils are caused by impure blood, and therefore 
the cure must be effected through the blood. Diet and regu- 
lar bowel movements are important. Drink fresh buttermilk 
and plenty of pure water, and eat liberally of vegetables and 
fruit, but avoid red meats, pastry and sweets. Take plenty 
outdoor exercise and sleep in a well-ventilated and airy apart- 
ment. Keep clean, physically, mentally and morally, and be 
temperate in all things, including eating and drinking. Wash 
the face with hot water and pure soap, rinse with cold water, 
and then apply some astringent toilet water. Spirits of cam- 
phor applied to the pimples has a tendency to dry them. 



PERSONAL HYGIENE 193 

Massaging 

There are two ways of massaging. One puts on flesh and 
the other takes it off. Light massaging will do the first, and 
heavy, hard massaging will do the latter. The movements 
in either case should be firm and circular, upward for sag- 
ging muscles and across lines or wrinkles. Before massag- 
ing, wash clean in warm water and pure soap, and rinse 
thoroughly. Apply a good cold cream or skin food free from 
animal fats (the latter is apt to cause hairy growth), using 
the finger tips. Massage five to ten minutes, and then wipe ofC. 

About Bathing 

Frequent bathing is conducive to good health as well as 
comfort. It keeps the pores of the skin clear, so that they 
can perform their proper function of clearing the system, 
through the skin, of excretions which are not discharged 
through the mouth, nose or alimentary canal. Rinse with 
cold water. A brisk rub after the bath promotes circulation of 
blood. 

Cosmetics for the Skin 

As a general thing cosmetics of all kinds (except the most 
simple and harmless) should be avoided. Rouge and powders, 
although they may not be detected, cannot fail to injure the 
skin, whatever may be said to the contrary. On the other 
hand, simple washes, lotions, etc, are not only entirely inno- 
cent, but in many instances are beneficial, as well as refreshing. 

An infusion of horse-radish in milk is said to be a good 
cosmetic for the skin. Horse-radish steeped in vinegar will 
remove freckles or bleach them so that they will be less notice- 
able. The same is true of buttermilk, which whitens and 
softens the skin. 

Mix together equal parts of glycerin, bay rum, rose water and 
witch-hazel. This is excellent for rough skin, and especially 
good after shaving. — [A. S. B., Mass. 

To 2 oz cologne add 1 oz benzoin and I/2 oz spirits of cam- 
phor. Use 1 teasp in a basin of clear, cold rinse water. 

When clean, soft rain water is not obtainable, soften well 
or spring water by adding a little toilet ammonia or pure 
borax. 

This is a nice wash, but should be used only in cool or cold 
weather: Mix together 1 lb flake white with 1 oz glycerin 
and 1 oz oil of citrinila, pour on 2 qts boiling water, and gently 
boil ten minutes, then add a little extract of alkanet to color 
it pink. When cool, put in bottles and cork. — [M. S., Tex. 



194 THE HOUSEKEEPER'S REFERENCE BOOK 

This is a simple and harmless face wash, to use in place 
of powder: Half fill a bottle with Epsom salts, and then fill 
the bottle with rose water or equal parts of cologne and water. 
Shake until dissolved. After washing and drying, apply this 
to face, neck and arms, and rub until dry. This is a nice, 
velvety tonic which does not look "powdery." — [B. G., Mich. 

Soak % oz gum tragacanth in 3 pts soft, hot water 24 hours, 
then strain and add % pt each of pure alcohol, glycerin and 
rose water. — [Mrs F. A., Ore. 

This is a good cucumber wash: Slice cucumbers fine, cover 
with water, let simmer Vz hour on a slow fire and then strain. 
Add 10 drops of benzoin to each pt of clear cucumber fluid. 
Shake well and use as a face wash. This is good to apply to 
the face after it has been steamed and the pores cleansed. 
[L. J. P., Ore. 

Freckle and Sunburn liotions 

To 1 pt spring water add 1 dram muriate of ammonia and 
2 drams lavender water. Apply carefully with a small sponge 
2 or 3 times a day. Another pleasant bleach for light freckles 
is made by mixing together equal portions of peroxide of hydro- 
gen and aqua of ammonia. 

To y2 dram oxide of zinc add i/4 dram subiodide of bismuth, 
1% drams dextrine and 1% drams glycerin. Apply to freckles 
before retiring. — [F. E. F., O. 

To 1 oz lemon juice add i/4 dram borax and % dram sugar. 
Bottle and let stand three days. Apply to freckles before 
retiring. — [C. S., Okla. 

Here is a good freckle lotion: Mix together 1 qt rain water, 
1 oz benzoin, 1 oz aqua ammonia, 1 oz rose water and 2 oz 
glycerin. Shake before using. — [C. L. A., O. 

For freckles apply a mixture of 1 fluid dram each of acid 
lacti and glycerin. — [W. N., Tex. 

To remove sunburn bathe with a fresh infusion of sliced 
cucumbers in milk. A decoction of tansy mixed with butter- 
milk is also good. Witch-hazel is always efiicacious, as is 
also a good cold cream, applied before retiring. 

A good lotion to lighten "moth patches" is made of % dram 
salicylic acid and 2 oz bay rum. Any freckle lotion can be 
used. 

Cold Creams and Salves 

Melt and mix together 1 dram each of white wax and 
spermaceti and while warm add 2 oz each oil of almonds and 
rose water, and V2 oz orange flower water. Beat well until 
the mixture is of a creamy consistency. Put into small jars, 
cover well, and set away in a cool place. 



PERSONAL HYGIENE 195 

An excellent skin food is made as follows: Melt and mix 
together i/^ oz each of spermaceti and white wax, 1 oz each of 
cocoa butter and lanoline, and 2 oz of sweet almond oil. 
Remove from fire and add 1 dram tincture of benzoin and 2 
oz rose water. Beat until cold. — [C. S., Okla. 

This is a greaseless face cream: Put 1 oz almozoin in a 
fruit jar, add ^ pt cold water and 2 teasp glycerin, stir five 
minutes, then let stand until it is a jelly. Use it as you 
would cold cream. Apply and let it remain a moment on the 
skin, then rub with finger tips and remove with soft cloth. — ' 
[E. P., Mass. 

A nice cucumber cream is made of 4 oz almond oil, 1 oz 
each of spermaceti and white wax, and 2 oz cucumber juice. 
Select ripe cucumbers, chop them fine, pound to a paste, and 
extract the juice by squeezing through a jelly bag. Perfume 
with Vz dram of violet extract. Melt the spermaceti and white 
wax by putting them in a porcelain dish placed in a saucepan 
of boiling water, then add almond oil and cucumber juice. 
Beat until cold. — [Miss M., Neb. 

Here are the ingredients for orange flower cream: Six 
drams each of white wax and spermaceti, 2 drams borax, lYz 
oz glycerin, 2 oz orange flower water and 15 drops oil of neroli. 
Put the wax, spermaceti and the oils in a porcelain dish, placed 
in boiling hot water and heat until the ingredients are melted. 
Dissolve the borax in the orange water, then mix in the glycerin 
and pour gradually into the first mixture. Beat until cold, 
adding neroli while beating. — [Miss M., Neb. 

A good lip salve is made as follows: Melt together with 
gentle heat % oz cocoa butter and % oz oil of almonds; then 
add 6 drops essence of lemon. Mix well and pour into small 
molds to cool. 

To Whiten the Hands 

Cut up fine 1/4 lb pure castile soap, put in a jar in a warm 
place near the fire, pour over it 1 pt of pure alcohol and cover. 
When the soap is all dissolved and well mixed with the alcohol, 
add 1 oz each of glycerin and oil of almonds, with a few drops 
of essence of violets or otto of roses. Pour into small molds 
■and cool. 

This is the way to make camphor tablets for chapped hands : 
Melt some clean tallow and add a little powdered camphor and 
some glycerin, with a few drops of oil of almonds to scent. 
Pour into small molds and cool. 

A nice wash for the hands to prevent cracking and keep 
them soft, is as follows: To 2 oz glycerin add 2 oz rain water, 
^ oz camphor, ^ oz turpentine, ^^ oz hartshorn (ammonia) 
and 5 drops carbolic acid. Mix well and keep corked tight. 



196 THE HOUSEKEEPER'S REFERENCE BOOK 

Shake before using. Apply twice a day, or if hands are bad, 
every time after you wash. — [M. J. L., Mich. 

To prevent chapped hands, after having them in water, rub 
them each time in a stiff mixture of corn meal and a little 
vinegar, or with dry oatmeal. Can be used over and over 
again. 

Mix equal parts of glycerin and lemon juice, or equal 
parts of glycerin and listerine. Equal parts of bay rum, rose 
water and glycerin is another good mixture. Mix strained 
juice of two lemons with 1 oz glycerin and add 20 drops car- 
bolic acid. Or to 2 oz rose water add 2 oz glycerin and 4 oz 
rain water. 

Face Powders 

Fine, precipitated French chalk, or rice or talcum powder 
are the most harmless of face powders. White starch is also 
used, 1 lb of this sifted with 4 oz oxide of bismuth. Any 
cosmetic powders containing white lead should never be applied 
to the skin, as it is the most dangerous article that can be 
used. In general, face powders are not to be recommended, 
as they fill the pores and often cause skin troubles. How- 
ever, there are times when they are very useful and one 
should always have some on hand. 

Beet Rouge 

This recipe is over a hundred years old, is easily prepared 
and entirely harmless. Take the raw, red beets, and after 
carefully washing and drying them, rub them over a grater 
and thus extract the juice. The liquid can then be mixed with 
a like quantity of pure alcohol and a few drops of rose water 
or oil of lavender added, to perfume. Strain, bottle and cork 
tightly. Another recipe calls for 1 oz of alkanet root steeped 
in Vz pt pure alcohol about ten days. The liquid may then 
be poured off, strained and bottled. 

To Remove Perspiration Odor 

Frequently bathe the parts with a lotion made of 1 dram 
alum and 1 pt water, or 1 pt water and 2 heaping teasp bicar- 
bonate of soda. A powder composed of 1 oz alum, 2 oz orris 
root, and 2 oz powdered rice will also help to cheek exces- 
sive perspiration. 

Toilet Soaps 

There are always small pieces of good toilet soap left over 
in every household, and too often these are wasted. Collect 



PERSONAL HYGIENE 197 

them and weigh out half their weight in fine oatmeal. Put the 
soap into a pan, add just enough water to dissolve it, without 
scorching. When dissolved, add the oatmeal and a few drops 
oil of sassafras. Turn it into a pan to cool and when cool cut 
it into small cakes and let. them stand a few weeks to harden. 
[E. K., Mass. 

Scrape fine 1 lb pure castile soap. Put it over the fire with 
a little water and stir it to a smooth paste, then turn it into 
a bowl and when cool add some lavender water or any kind 
of essence preferred, and beat with a silver spoon till well 
mixed. Thicken it with Indian meal and keep it in small pots 
closely covered, as exposure to the air will harden it. 

Melt together I lb of white soap, cut fine, and 1 oz of sper- 
maceti, with water only just sufficient to mix. Then remove 
from fire, add 1 oz powdered camphor, and beat well. Put into 
molds to harden. 

Cut into very small pieces 3 lb white soap and melt it with 
% pt strained water in which 3 sliced lemons have been boiled. 
When melted remove from fire and add 1 lb powdered starch 
or fuller's earth and a little essence of lemon. Knead the 
whole into a paste and form into bars of the desired size. 

Melt together 1 lb white soap, cut fine, and 2 oz sperma- 
ceti, and when cool beat in 1 oz alcohol, 1 oz carbolic acid and 
a few drops oil of lemon. 

A nice shaving paste is made as follows: Melt together 4 oz 
best white soap and Vz oz each of spermaceti and olive oil. 
Remove from fire, stir and when nearly cold add a few drops 
of any preferred essential oil — lemon or almond are generally 
used. This paste produces a good lather with either hot or 
cold water, and does not dry on the face. Do not pour water 
on the soap, but put a small quantity of the latter on the 
face, and then apply a wet shaving brush to distribute it and 
rub it in. 

Make a flannel bag about 4x6 inches, put in it all the bits 
of toilet soap too small for other use, and use the bag as you 
would a cake of soap. By mixing in oatmeal a nice bath bag 
is obtained. 

Perfumery 

The too lavish use of perfumery of any kind should be 
avoided, as it shows a lack of taste and refinement. In mod- 
erate quantities fine perfumery is used by the most cultivated 
and genteel persons; it is only the excess that is improper. 
The various kinds of odor colognes are the most popular and 
most generally used perfumes. 



198 THE HOUSEKEEPER'S REFERENCE BOOK 

To Extract the Perfume of Flowers 

Procure a quantity of the petals of any flower which has an 
agreeable flavor. Comb thin layers of cotton wool, dip these 
into the finest Florence oil. Sprinkle a small quantity of 
fine salt on the flower petals and then place alternate layers 
of oil, cotton and flowers in an earthen or wide-mouthed glass 
vessel, until the same is quite full. Tie the top close with 
a bladder or oiled paper, and put the vessel in some place where 
it will be exposed to the sun, moving it around so as to keep 
it in the sun as long as possible. In about two weeks a frag- 
rant oil may be squeezed from the whole mass. If roses 
are used, this oil will be almost as fine as the highly valued 
and expensive otto of roses. 

Perfume Powder 

This is a nice powder to put in bags and distribute in shirt- 
waist boxes or bureau drawers. Mix together 2 oz each of 
coriander powder, Florentine orris powder, powdered rose 
leaves and powdered sweet scented flagroot, 4 oz powdered 
lavender flowers, 1 scruple musk and 1 dram powder of 
sandalwood. 

Perfumery Bags 

Besides being a very pleasant perfume, the following also 
acts as a preventive against moths: Mix together 1 oz each of 
ground cloves, carraway seeds, nutmeg, mace, cinnamon and 
Tonquin beans. Then add as much Florentine ground orris 
root as will equal the other ingredients put together. Put 
them in little bags and distribute these among your clothes, 
in bureaus, closets, etc. 

Otto of Roses 

Fill a large glazed earthen jar with rose leaves, discarding 
the flower cups, leaves, etc. Pour enough spring water over 
the rose leaves to just cover them; then set the jar with its 
contents in the sun for two or three days, taking it in during 
the night. At the end of the third or fourth day small particles 
of yellow oil will be seen floating on the surface of the water. 
This, in the course of a week or so, will have increased to 
a thin scum, which is the otto of roses. Take this up with 
a tiny, fine sponge or with a little cotton, and squeeze the 
precious otto of roses into a small bottle. 

Extract of Bouquet 

Mix together 1 pt pure alcohol, 2 drams each of oil of 



PERSONAL HYGIENE 199 

lavender, oil of cloves, and oil of bergamot, 20 drops each of 
otto of roses and oil of cinnamon, and 1 dram essence of musk. 

Violet Water 

To 1 pt of pure alcohol add 2% oz fine orris root and % oz 
violet powder. Let stand 1 week, shaking frequently, then 
filter and bottle. 

Lisbon Water 

To 2 qts fine alcohol add 1%' oz each of the essential oils 
of orange peel and lemon peel, and % oz otto of roses. Bottle 
and cork well. Let stand a week and shake well each day, 
after which it will be ready for use. 

Essence of Lemon or Orange 

To Vz pt pure alcohol add 3 oz orange peel cut small (use 
only the yellow part of the orange), 1 dram powdered orris 
root, and 2 grains musk. Let stand in a warm place for three 
or four days, then filter and bottle. For lemon essence, 
use the lemon peel instead of orange peel. 

Essence of Lavender 

To 1 qt of pure alcohol add 2 oz essential oil of lavender, 
% pt of rose water and % pt tincture of orris. Lavender water 
is made by mixing together 1% qts alcohol, % pt rose water 
and 2 oz oil of lavender. 

Essence for Smelling Bottle 

The smelling bottles may be filled with any porous absorbent 
material, such as asbestos or sponge cuttings, that have been 
well washed and dried. Mix together 1 pt strong aqua ammo- 
nia, 1 dram each otto of rosemary and otto of English laven- 
der, and % dram each oil of bergamot and otto of cloves. 
Shake well in a well-corked bottle, then pour over the filler 
contents of the smelling bottle and cork well. Another recipe 
calls for 1 dram each oil of lavender and essential oil of 
bergamot, 8 drops oil of orange peel, 4 drops oil of cinnamon, 
2 drops oil of neroli and 2 oz each of pure alcohol and aqua 
ammonia. 

Incense 

Mix together 2 oz powdered cascarilla and 1 oz each myrrh, 
stajrax, benzoin and Burgundy pitch. Form into small cones. 



200 THE HOUSEKEEPER'St REFERENCE BOOK 

Jots 

Give your face and neck an occasional bath in sour milk or 
buttermilk. You will find them great complexion beautifiers. 
[J. S. A., Vt. 

Use lemon juice and pumice stone to remove stains from 
hands. — [A. G., Mass. 

Bathe oily or shiny nose with borax water, or wash with 
corn meal, instead of soap. — [B. E., Ore. 

Bran will make hard water soft and is good for the skin. 
Put the bran in a cheesecloth bag. A few drops of tincture 
of benzoin or toilet ammonia will also soften water and make 
it agreeable to the skin. Do not use too much. — [F. E. F., O. 

The Hair 

Every man, woman and child desires to have a nice head of 
hair. How to preserve it if you have it, and how to secure it 
if you haven't it, is a vexing problem to countless people, as 
witness the large sales of hair tonics, washes, electric brushes, 
wonder combs, etc. But the only way to solve the problem 
is to go to the root of the matter. This root is good health 
■ — which means proper food, exercise, sanitation and ventila- 
tion, plenty of fresh air at all times, and an optimistic mind 
which refuses to worry. Do all in your power to secure these 
essentials to good health, and the battle is more than half 
won. Proper tonics will do the rest. 

Care of the Hair 

If the hair is oily it will need to be washed every two or 
three weeks; if not, every four or five weeks is frequent enough. 
Use only pure castile or ivory soap, with the addition of a 
very little borax. Make a nice warm suds of this, wash care- 
fully and rinse thoroughly, first in clean, warm water and 
then in clear, cold water. Rub gently with a towel and then 
go out in the sunshine and keep moving around until the hair 
is dry. Do not comb or brush the hair until it is perfectly 
dry. Fresh air with sunshine is one of the best hair tonics. 
Clip the hair about % inch once every month. Brush gently 
every evening before retiring to remove the day's accumula- 
tion of dust and dirt. A little vaseline rubbed about the roots 
of the hair is good for a dry scalp, or pure bay rum for an 
oily scalp, but do not use too much. Never use curling irons. 
Remove all pins and braid the hair loosely before retiring. 
Never wear "rats" or false puffs, and don't use any more 
hairpins than necessary. Wear light hats that permit free 
ventilation. 



PERSONAL HYGIENE 201 

Hair Shampoos 

Shave fine a 5c cake of best castile soap, dissolve in ^ 
pt rain water with gentle heat, partially cool, then stir in 
the beaten yolk of 1 egg and strained juice of 1 lemon. Stir 
until cold, when it will be ready for use. 

A nice shampoo mixture for a blond is made as follows: 
Dissolve 1 oz salts of tartar in 1 qt clean, lukewarm rain water 
(not hot), then add the strained juice of 3 lemons. Rub 
into the scalp and about roots of hair, and rinse well in 
several warm waters, the last rinse to be cold water. Dry 
in air and sunshine. 

One tablesp pure borax to 2 qts warm water makes a good 
shampoo. Use more or less borax, according to condition of 
hair — if very greasy more; if not greasy, less. Too much, 
borax cannot be used, as water will only dissolve a given 
amount. Thorough rinsing in several pure waters is 
necessary. 

Hair Brushes and Combs 

In order to have a nice head of hair one must have a clean 
scalp, and to keep the scalp clean one must use only clean 
combs and brushes. Wash frequently in ammonia water, rinse 
in several clean waters, and dry quickly in open air. Only; 
the bristles of the brush should be put in the ammonia water. 
Use a shallow dish. 

About Hair Dyes 

Dyeing the hair is a practice not to be recommended, for 
several reasons. In the first place, nature makes the hair 
and the complexion to match, and if one or the other is 
changed, there is lack of harmony. Hair dyes color the hair 
only as far as the roots and require to be applied frequently, 
as the growth of hair shows both the false and real color. The 
lead which forms so large a part of the various hair dyes in 
general use is injurious, if not actually dangerous. Headache, 
neuralgia, paralysis, etc, have in numberless cases been caused 
by lead preparations for the hair. 

To Prevent Hair Turning Gray 

It is claimed that an undue proportion of lime in the system 
is the cause of premature gray hair. If this claim is correct, 
it would be well to avoid using hard water for drinking or 
washing. A good remedy for hair which threatens to turn 
gray and fall out is the following: To 1 part bay rum add 3 
parts olive oil and 1 part brandy, by measure. 



202 THE HOUSEKEEPER'S REFERENCE BOOK 



Hair Tonics 

To 2 oz glycerin add 1 oz tincture of myhrr, 1 oz cologne, % 
oz tincture of cantharides and 24 oz distilled water. 

To 1 pt bay rum add % pt alcohol, 1 oz castor oil, % oz 
carbonate of ammonia and V4, oz tincture of cantharides. 
Shake well before using. Apply daily. 

Mix 1 oz carbonate of ammonia with 1 pt of sweet oil and 
apply daily until the hair stops falling out, or the new hairs 
have started to grow. 

Strong sage tea as a daily wash will promptly stop the hair 
from falling out, it is said, and if its use is persevered in, 
will cause the hair to grow thick and strong. 

To % pt alcohol add 1 qt best olive oil, 2 oz bay rum, 20 
grains quinine, 1 oz borax, 2 oz castor oil, 1 oz camphor, and 
a few drops of any of the essential oils you like. — [F. I. R., 
N H. 

To 2 oz glycerin add 30 grains quinine, 4 oz witch-hazel, 4 
oz bay rum, 2 oz salt and 1 pt of rose water. Rub well into 
the scalp two or three times a week. — [F. B. H., Okla. 

To 1 oz borax add % oz gum camphor. Pound these ingre- 
dients fine and dissolve in 1 qt hot water. When cool, the 
solution is ready for use. The camphor may form into small 
lumps, but this will not affect the utility of the tonic, as the 
water will be sufficiently impregnated. 

To 1 qt rain water, add 5-oz package of dried tansy. Boil 
down to half, then strain through a cloth and add 2 oz glycerin 
and 4 oz bay rum. Cork tightly and set away in a dark place 
two weeks. Wash, rinse and dry the hair before using. Us© 
this tonic every night for a month. — [A. A. S. 

Mix well together 2 pts bay rum, 1 pt alcohol, 1 oz each. 
castor oil and tincture of cantharides, and % oz carb ammo- 
nia. This compound will promote the growth of the hair and 
prevent it from falling out, it is claimed. 

Boil 2 tablesp red Peruvian bark in 1 pt soft water, then 
strain and add 1 tablesp borax and 5 or 6 drops of your favor- 
ite essential oil. Shake well before . using. Apply once or 
twice a week, rubbing it well into the scalp. — [E. M. F., Kan. 

Here is another recipe: To 2 pts bay rum add 1 pt alcohol, 
1 oz castor oil, % oz carbonate ammonia and 1 oz tincture of 
cantharides. 

To % pt castor oil add % oz alkanet root, 10 minims each 
oil of bergamot and oil of cloves and l^^ grains civet. The 
castor oil must be gently heated; when sufficiently hot, it 
should be poured upon the alkanet root, which immediately 
communicates its color. It must then be strained, and, when 
cold, the other ingredients are to be stirred into it. This 
oil will strengthen and improve the hair in every respect. 



PERSONAL HYGIENE 203 

Hair Dressings 

A good hair dressing is made by dissolving 4 oz pure glyce- 
rin in 12 oz rose water. Glycerin does not evaporate readily. 

Another recipe calls for 1 qt olive oil, 1 dram otto of roses 
and 1 dram oil of rosemary. This mixture may be colored 
red by adding a few drops of tincture of alkanet. 

Steep 1 tablesp of garden sage in 1 cup of boiling water; 
when cold strain. Wet the head at night all over and let it 
dry before braiding. This prevents the graying of the hair 
and is an excellent dressing. It keeps the hair glossy, clean 
and soft. 

To make the hair soft and glossy, apply this mixture every 
morning and brush well: To 1 pt best French bay rum add 
1 oz castor oil. Color with a little tincture of alkanet root 
and perfume with a few drops of oil of lavender. 

To 3 parts sweet oil add 1 part brandy. This, if used per- 
sistently, will help the hair wonderfully. Rub well into the 
scalp. 

Dandruif Cures 



Mix well together y^ dram carbolic acid, a few drops oil of 
bergamot and 2 oz glycerin. Rub thoroughly into the roots of 
the hair and follow by liberal application of the best bay rum. 
This used once a week will prevent dandruff from forming, 
keep the scalp healthy and make the hair soft and glossy. 

Dissolve % teasp refined powdered borax in 1 cup water. 
Part the hair and apply to the scalp with a small brush. 
Finish up by shampooing the hair, rinsing thoroughly with 
cold water and drying where the sun and air can get at it. 
Do this once or twice a week and the dandruff will be 
removed. 

A mixture of 1 tablesp pure, fresh lard, to which a few drops 
oil of geranium or bergamot has been added, will remove the 
milk crusts from baby's head and also soften the dandruff 
crusts sometimes found on young children's heads. After the 
dandruff has softened it can be easily combed off. The head 
should then be washed with weak borax water and carefully 
rinsed with clear water. 

Rub together 2 oz lard and 2 drams diluted sulphuric acid. 
Anoint the head once a day. 

Hard brushes and small-tooth combs should not be em- 
ployed to remove dandruff. Wash the scalp every week and 
use some reliable dandruff cure. 

It is said that onion juice has a stimulating effect and is 
of service in restoring tone to the scalp. 



204 THE HOUSEKEEPER'S REFERENCE BOOK 



Hair Curling Fluids 

To 2 oz borax add 1 dram gum arable and 1 qt hot water. 
As soon as the ingredients are dissolved, add 3 tablesp spirits 
of camphor. Wet the hair with this before putting It up in 
curlers. 

Mix together 1% drams gum tragacanth, % pt water, 3 oz 
alcohol and 10 drops otto of roses. Cover. and let stand 24 
hours, then strain. 

Another mixture is made by pouring about 1 tablesp boiling 
water on 1 dozen quince seeds. This mixture should be 
made fresh every time it is wanted. 

Another plain curling fluid is made by simply dissolving a 
small quantity of gum arable in hot water. Use a weak 
solution of this. 

Care of the Teeth 

If the teeth and mouth were always kept clean there would 
be fewer complaints about decayed teeth and toothaches. 
Begin with the milk teeth, take proper care of these and those 
that follow, and your tooth troubles will be few and far 
between. Clean the mouth after each meal. Rinse with 
water to which has been added a little lemon juice or salt, 
or alum, or borax, or bicarbonate of soda, or tincture of 
myhrr, or listerine, or peroxide of hydrogen — anything that 
is cleansing and antiseptic. Use the toothbrush up and down 
as well as crosswise, and on the inside of the teeth as well 
as on the outside. 

Tooth Powders 

Some prepared tooth powders contain powerful acids, which, 
will remove stains, but are harmful to the enamel, and there- 
fore should be avoided. The following are as harmless as they 
are effective: 

To 1 oz of prepared pulverized charcoal add 3 oz precipitated 
chalk. 

Mix 1 part of precipitated chalk with i/4 part powdered 
orris root and % part borax. 

To Vz oz prepared chalk add Vz oz ground camphor, % lb 
ground orris and % lb of rose pink. 

To 1 oz orris root add 6 oz precipitated chalk, % oz bicar- 
bonate of soda, Vz dram essence of violets, and rose pink 
enough to give it a pale violet color. 

Liquid Preparations for the Teeth and Mouth 

Mix 3 oz tincture of myrrh with 1 pt of cologne. Bottle, 
let stand 7 days and then filter. Another recipe calls for AYs 



PERSONAL HYGIENE 205 

oz camphor, 2 oz myrrli, 36 fluid oz rectified spirits (refined 
alcohol), and 8 oz distilled water. 

This is a good lotion for cleansing the mouth, removing 
unpleasant odors, and for purifying the breath. To 1 oz of 
liquid chlorinated soda add 19 oz of distilled water. Use a 
teaspoonful of this mixture in a glass of water. 

Mouth Pastiles 

These are nice for perfuming the breath: Mix together 3 
oz extract of licorice, 1% drams oil of cloves and 15 drops 
oil of cinnamon. Divide into 1 grain pills and coat with con- 
fectioner's sugar. Another compound, which is also good for 
disinfecting the breath, is made by mixing together 2 drams 
dry chloride of lime, 8 oz powdered sugar, 1 oz corn starch 
and 1 dram gum tragacanth, colored with 2 grains of car- 
mine. Form into small lozenges. 

Tinctures for Toothaches 

These are applied by moistening a little cotton wool or lint 
with the liquid and introducing into the cavity of the decayed 
tooth. Where there is no cavity they are sometimes applied 
to the gums surrounding the affected tooth. The cavity should 
be dried with lint before applying the remedy. Keep bottles 
out of the reach of children. 

Mix aqua ammonia with % the quantity of tincture of opium. 
Another recipe calls for 1 dram creosote, 2 drams spirits 
of camphor. The creosote and camphor may be mixed or 
either one may be used alone. Another recipe for tooth- 
ache drops calls for 1 oz pure alcohol, % oz camphor, 1 scruple 
opium and 80 drops oil of cloves. Still another calls for 4 
drams each of alcohol and creosote and 4 drops oil of 
peppermint. 

Get your druggist to put you up the following magic prep- 
aration to cure toothache: One dram laudanum, 4 drams 
camphor, % dram oil of cloves, 1 dram oil of lavender, 1 oz 
alcohol, 6 drams sulphuric ether and 5 fluid drams chloroform. 
Hub on face or gums. Also good for face neuralgia. It cost 
me 35c to have this prescription filled, but it's worth all that, 
and more. — [W. M. G., N J. 

Saturate a small piece of absorbent cotton with tincture of 
benzoin. It will cure the toothache at once, will leave a 
pleasant taste, and will benefit the gums instead of blistering. 
It is an excellent remedy for children. — [F. E. F., O. 

Cement for Pilling Teeth 

The following is a hard cement and intended to remain 



206 THE HOUSEKEEPER'S REFERENCE BOOK 

in the tooth for an indefinite time. In all cases the cavity of 
the tooth must be previously cleared from all extraneous mat- 
ter and wiped perfectly dry. Mix 12 parts of dry phos- 
phoric acid with 13 parts of pure pulverized quicklime. This 
will become moist in mixing, and while in this state it should 
be introduced into the cavity of the tooth. It hardens quickly. 
Gutta percha, softened by heat, is also recommended as a 
filling for teeth. 

Care of the Feet 

People would never suffer from burning and aching feet if 
they would bathe them every night. Add soda to the bath 
to allay soreness, or salt to harden them. The soles of the 
feet are full of sweat glands and are greatly benefited by 
bathing. It takes only a few minutes before retiring. After 
the bath, rub with alcohol. 

Corn and Bunion Remedies 

Soak a piece of copper in strong vinegar for 12 or 24 hours. 
Pour the liquid into a bottle. Apply frequently till the corn 
is removed. This preparation is a poison and should not be 
used on the corn if there is any cut or opening in the skin. 

Another corn remedy is made by mixing 1 oz of finely pul- 
verized carbonate of soda with % oz pure lard. Apply on a 
linen rag every night. 

Take 2 oz gum ammoniac, 2 oz yellow wax, 6 drams of 
verdigris and melt them together and spread the composition 
on soft leather. Cut away as much of the corn as you can, 
then apply the plaster and renew it every fortnight till the 
corn is removed. 

Touch a soft corn with a little turpentine every night for 
two weeks and it should come out easily. Apply with a small 
camel's-hair brush and be careful not to touch the adjoining 
skin. — [P. T., N D. 

Put a slice of lemon on the corn and wrap a cloth around 
the toe. Do this every night for a week. Or poultice the corn 
for five or six days with a mixture of glycerin and borax on 
a small piece of cotton, and cover with oiled silk. Tincture 
of iodine applied to the corn every day till cured is another 
remedy. 

Boil the tender outer layer of an onion, apply it to the 
corn warm, and secure with a bandage. Do this every night 
for a week. Another way is to poultice the corn every night 
for a week with bread soaked in strong vinegar. 

A good bunion plaster is made of pulverized lime mixed 
with equal quantity of lard. Spread on a piece of white silk 
and put on the bunion. Do this for a week, and bathe the 



PERSONAL HYGIENE 2 07 



feet in soda water every night before applying the plaster, 
which should be made fresh every time. — [Mrs G., N Y. 

Frosted Feet aud Chilblains 

Never allow pressure on the affected parts. Shoes that are 
ordinarily large enough become too small, because the feet 
swell from frostbite. When feet become frosted, rub them 
at once with snow, using plenty of hard snow and "elbow 
grease," and then wrap the feet in flannels. 

Carbolic acid salve is said to be a good remedy, and bathing 
in salt and vinegar gives relief. Painting with tincture of 
iodine is another cure. This must be repeated three nights 
in succession. An ointment for frosted feet is made of 2 
parts lime and 1 part lard. Apply once or twice a day. A 
foot bath of strong tea made of beech leaves is also recom- 
mended. Soak feet half-hour, two or three nights. Raw onion 
juice applied frequently will allay the intense itching. Bind 
cotton over the affected parts steeped in a very strong alum 
solution. 

A good mixture for frost bites is made of equal parts of 
olive oil, spirits of turpentine, aqua ammonia and oil of pep- 
permint. Apply night and morning. A cure for cold feet is 
made of 8 oz lard and 1 dram powdered cayenne pepper. Apply 
every alternate night, and every odd night bathe the feet in 
cold or almost cold sal soda water, and after drying rub with 
alcohol. 

For Ingrowing Toe Nails 

Take a piece of broken glass or a file and scrape the nail 
very thin from the middle of the bottom to the top. Then 
cut the nail straight across the top and make a V at the 
middle top of the nail. Where the nail protrudes into the 
flesh, raise nail with a thin knife and insert a small piece 
of cotton under the nail. Be careful not to cut into the flesh. 
[C. L. A., O. 

Wart Cures 

Warts can generally be removed by the application of strong 
acetic acid or chronic acid, but great care must be used when 
applying the acid, not to get it on any of the neighboring 
skin, as it would occasion inflammation and much pain. Cut a 
hole the size of the wart in a little piece of court plaster and 
put this on before applying acid. Remember that saleratus 
(baking soda) will counteract the action of the acid. Never 
try to remove warts from elderly people, or when the warts 
appear irritated, as they are apt to degenerate into a malig- 
nant cancerous growth. 



208 THE HOUSEKEEPER'S REFERENCE BOOK 

Long warts can be tied with fine, white silk and treated to 
a solution of soda or Epsom salts two or three times a day, 
when they will soon drop off. A mixture of 2 parts nitric 
acid to 1 part muriatic acid is a good remedy for warts. 
Touching the wart daily with aquafortis or nitrate of silver 
is another cure. The application of lunar caustic is also recom- 
mended. Pare the wart and repeat until cured. The juicd 
from milkweed is also said to cure warts. 

Rose Jar 

Save all petals of roses and any other fragrant flowers and 
the foliage of rose geranium, and make old-fashioned "rose 
jar" of them as follows: Spread petals thinly on paper and 
thoroughly dry in an airy and sunny room. Then mix with 
salt, ground nutmeg, cinnamon, cloves, allspice and a few bay 
leaves broken in small bits. A few drops of essential oils are 
fine to add to it, if one can afford it, also some ground orris 
root or sachet powder is desirable, but may be omitted. Place 
the mixture in closed jars and stir occasionally. It will not 
be fragrant until it matures, which takes about a month. A 
little placed upon a warm pie tin or stove lid will perfume a 
room agreeably. It retains its fragrance and keeps indefinitely. 
Always keep jar covered when not in use. 



For Additional Memoranda 




Health Hints 

Homemade Cures and Remedies 

►OME remedies, and those prescribed by 
physicians, have their uses, but the great 
triumphs of medical science in the future 
will be along the line of disease prevention. 
The doctor who points out the way to pre- 
vent a case of typhoid fever is a greater benefactor 
to mankind than the physician who cures a case. The 
homely old adage, " An ounce of prevention is worth 
a pound of cure," was never more apparent than 
today. Don't get mad when your doctor tells you that 
your case of typhoid fever is caused by your well being 
too close to the barnyard; or your case of diphtheria 
caused by a neglected and dirty sink spout; or your 
scarlet fever by an uncovered water closet ; or that your 
tired, neuralgic, nervous and discouraged wife is suffer- 
ing from slow poisoning from lead pipe water. If you 
have not sufficient confidence in your family physician 
to take his advice, consult some expert on sanitation, and 
follow his advice, no matter to what expense or incon- 
venience. Better spend money to secure sanitary con- 
ditions and preserve the health and working ability of 
the family than to let it find its way into the pockets 
of doctors, druggists or undertakers. Remember that 
health is normal, sickness and disease abnormal. But 
while you are striving to get back to normal condition, 
here are a few hints and remedies that may prove useful. 

209 



210 THE HOUSEKEEPER'S REFERENCE BOOK 

In Cases of Poisoning 

In the first place, preventive is better than cure. Label 
all poison bottles carefully and keep them in a separate place, 
apart from other medicines or remedies. Whenever you buy 
a remedy of any nature containing poison, attach to the can 
or bottle a label plainly marked with the antidote for that 
poison. As a general rule, it is well to remember that acids 
are antidotes for alkali poisons and alkalies antidotes for 
acid poisons. 

It is necessary, in all forms of poisoning, for the sufferer 
to vomit, and an emetic is the readiest way to accomplish 
this. Give 1 tablesp mustard stirred in a cup of lukewarm 
water, or 1 teasp salt in a cup of warm water. One or 2 tablesp 
syrup of ipecac is also an effective emetic. If the patient is 
unconscious and not able to swallow readily, pry the mouth 
open and depress the tongue with a spoon. After that, press- 
ing the jaw at the joints will usually force the mouth open. 

When the mucous membrane of the mouth is much inflamed 
or destroyed, give raw eggs, flaxseed tea, flour stirred in water 
and boiled, or any soothing drink. Stimulation can be accom- 
plished by means of hot water bottles or bags to the feet and 
over the heart, and by rubbing the extremities. Alcoholic stim- 
ulants are not to be recommended, and if used at all, should 
be given very cautiously. 

Some poisons paralyze the stomach so that emetics will not 
act, in which case the stomach must be washed out. Take 
a long piece of rubber tubing from a fountain syringe, put a 
little oil or vaseline on the end of the tube, hold the tongue 
down with the spoon, push the tube as far back in the mouth 
as possible, that it may enter the food passage, and not the 
air tract. When about 8 or 9 inches of the tubing has passed 
down, attach a funnel to the other end of the tubing, and 
holding above the head, pour in 2 or 3 pts lukewarm water. 
After this lower the funnel below the level of the stomach, 
and the water will run out. Repeat the process until the water 
comes away clear. In case of poisoning from strong acids, 
when the lining of the stomach and mouth are corroded, this 
means cannot be used. 



Common Poisons and Their Antidotes 

Following are some of the more common poisons by which 
human life is endangered or destroyed, together with the 
antidotes which may be used in emergencies to procure relief 
or save life. In severe cases a doctor should be summoned 
without delay. 



HEALTH HINTS 



211 



Name of Poison 
ALCOHOL 



ARSENIC 



Antidotes 
Excite vomiting by large drafts 
of warm water; pour cold, water 
on head and back of neck; keep 
up motion; whip the skin, palms 
of bands and soles of feet; use 
stomach pump. 

Ipecac; mustard tea; white of 
egg; milk; gruel; flaxseed tea; 
plenty of warm water; oil and 
lime water. 



BELLADONNA 



BUG POISON 
CARBOLIC ACID 



Vinegar and water freely; 
lime water; bitter infusions; 
stimulants; stomach pump; cold 
water poured on head. 

Whites of eggs or milk in 
large doses. 

Large doses of olive oil with 
a little castor oil; tablesp Epsom 
salts in water; boiled flour and 
water. 



CHLOROFORM 



CORROSIVE SUBLIMATE 



Dash cold water on head and 
chest; artificial respiration; try 
to keep patient walking in fresh 
air; use no chemical antidote. 

Whites of eggs abundantly; 
milk in quantity; boiled flour 
and water; boiled starch; excite 
vomiting by large drafts of 
warm water. 



FUNGUS 
(false musheooms) 



HELLEBORE 



LIME 



Emetics; purgatives; acid 
drinks, stimulants; bitters. 

Speedy vomiting by large 
drafts of warm water; molasses 
and water; oily drinks and 
purgatives; strong coffee; cam- 
phor in water. 

Vinegar; lemon juice; vege- 
table acids; emetics; warm 
baths. 



212 THE HOUSEKEEPER'S REFERENCE BOOK 



Name of Poison 
MOUNTAIN LAUREL 



NITER 



Antidotes 
Emetics and nauseating 
drinks; warm water; molasses 
and water; purgatives; stimu- 
lants; strong coffee; stomach, 
pump. 

Flaxseed tea; barley water; 
molasses and water; emetics; 
stimulants, etc. 



OIL OF VITRIOL 



OXALIC ACID 



Chalk or whiting mixed with, 
water; ashes and water; soap 
and water; white of eggs; milk; 
oil; if possible use stomach 
pump with great care. 

Chalk or whiting made in a 
cream with water; lime water 
with oil; carbonate of magnesia; 
emetics; stomach pump. 



OIL OF TAR Induce vomiting by copious 

drafts of warm water or other 
emetics. 



OPIUM 



Excite quick vomiting by 
copious drafts of warm water, 
mustard water and other 
emetics, and use stomach pump. 
Administer stimulants, brandy, 
strong coffee and tea; pour cold 
water on head and back of neck, 
and whip the skin, the palms 
of the hands and soles of the 
feet. 



PTOMAINE Promptly administer emetic 

and quick purgatives, also heart 
stimulants, such as brandy. 
Milk and egg white act as neu- 
tralizers. Summon doctor. 



PHOSPHORUS Fill up the stomach with 

magnesia and water and give 
emetics and nauseating drinks; 
keep up the vomiting until the 
danger is passed. 



HEALTH HINTS 



213 



Name of Poison 
POTASH 



PRUSSIC ACID 



POISON IVY 



POISON DOGWOOD 
PARIS GREEN 

STRYCHNINE 

SUGAR OF LEAD 
SULPHATE OF ZINC 

TARTAR EMETIC 



Antidotes 
Vinegar; lemon juice; tartaric 
acid in water; vegetable acids; 
, emetics. 

Application of strong ammo- 
nia to nostrils; stimulants; lin- 
iments to chest; cold water 
poured on liead and spine; give 
diluted solution of chloride of 
soda or lime. 

Bathe parts freely with spirits 
of niter; dissolve a handful of 
quicklime in water, let stand Vz 
hour and then paint the poisoned 
parts with it. Repeat applica- 
tions 5 or 6 times. Bathe affected 
parts with olive oil and take 
internally 2 tablesp olive oil 3 
times a day; lard mixed to a 
paste with prepared chalk, used 
as an ointment. 

Treatment is the same as for 
poison ivy. 

Milk; raw eggs; sweet oil; 
lime water; boiled flour and 
water; emetics; stomach pump. 

Mustard and water; sulphate 
of zinc; keep patient absolutely 
quiet and plug ears of patient. 
Send for doctor. 

Epsom salts; milk; whites of 
eggs; boiled flour and water; 
em'eties; stomach pump. 

Whites of eggs; boiled flour 
and water; large quantities of 
milk; infusions of tea or oak 
bark; emetics and purgatives. 

Warm drinks; strong, green 
tea; tea made of oak bark; 
emetics. 



214 THE HOUSEKEEPER'S' REFERENCE BOOK 

Name of Poison Antidotes 

GENERAL DIRECTIONS For acid poisoning give alkali 

remedies and for alkali poisons 
give acid remedies. Large 
quantities of milk and raw eggs 
are generally safe. Salt water, 
soap water or mustard water, 
lukewarm, are effective emetics; 
sweet oil or olive oil, or boiled 
flour and water, boiled fluid 
starch, or flaxseed tea, are sootli- 
ing drinks. 

List of Medical Necessities 

Those who live on farms or ranches, or in other places where 
medical help is diflScult to get, would do well to procure the 
following list of medical necessities for the household. With 
all these on hand, one will possess a medicine chest capable 
of meeting all the likely emergencies of everyday life. 

Graduated medicine spoon and medicine glass — Medicine 
dropper or drop bottle — Hot water bag — Enema syringe — 
Fever thermometer — Court plaster and surgeon's plaster — 
Caustic pencil — Absorbent berated cotton — Red cross band- 
ages — ^Tincture of arnica — Spirits of ammonia — Spirits of 
camphor — Carbolic acid — Castor oil — French brandy or 
whisky — Ground ginger — Ground linseed — Ground mustard — ■ 
Essence of ginger — Essence of peppermint — Bi-carbonate of 
soda — Chalk mixture — Vaseline — Paregoric — Tincture aconite 
— Sweet spirits of niter — Sal volatile — Witch-hazel— Quinine 
pills — Phenacetine — Boric acid — Charcoal — Cream of tartar — ■ 
Epsom salts — Glycerin — Iodine — Lime water — Linseed and 
linseed meal — Licorice powders — Calcined magnesia — Chloride 
of potash — Sulphur — Turpentine. 

Common Medicines and Their Uses 

ALBUMEN — This is white of egg and is used, outside of 
its culinary functions, as an antidote to metallic poisons, with 
■which it forms an insoluble compound. Should be given mixed 
with water. 

ALCOHOL — This is a stimulant and should be given mixed 
with water. Brandy or whisky come under the same head. 
Give with caution. 

ALUM — This is an astringent; used for gargles and injec- 
tions. For external use only. 

ANTIPYRINE — This is a febrifuge and lowers the pulse. 
Is given in case of fevers, feverish colds, influenza, headache" 
etc. Dose, 3 to 5 grains. 



HEALTH HINTS 215 



ARROWROOT — This is a nutritive and forms a pleasant and 
wholesonae food for invalids. 

BROMIDE OF AMMONIUM — This is a nervine, very useful 
in sleeplessness, hysteria and neuralgia. Dose, 5 to 10 grains. 
Use with caution. 

BORIC ACID — This is antiseptic, and as a 4% solution in 
water, it forms a very effectual lotion for the eyes. In powder 
it may be used for dusting purposes; mixed with vaseline it 
yields an excellent everyday ointment. 

BORAX — This is astringent and combined with glycerin or 
honey is used largely for ulcers of the mouth. Its solution in 
water gives an excellent gargle. 

CALOMEL — This is a purgative and is excellent in cases of 
bilious headaches. Is best if combined with other purgatives 
in the form of a pill. Use with care. Dose, ^ grain to 2 
grains. 

CAMOMILE — This is the common camomile flower, a bitter 
tonic, very useful in disorders of the stomach and indigestion. 
Can be taken as an infusion or in pill form. 

CAMPHOR — ^This is a stimulant and sedative. Ten drops on 
a lump of sugar will cure an incipient cold in the head. 
Camphorated oil is an excellent liniment to use in cases of cold. 

CARBOLIC ACID — This is antiseptic. Use 1 teasp to 1 pt 
water to wash sores. 

CASCARA SAGRADA — ^This is a laxative and beneficial in 
chronic constipation and dyspepsia. Dose of fluid extract, 8 to 
10 drops after each meal, in water, 

CASTOR OIL — This is cathartic and safe and effectual. 
Dose, 1 teasp to 2 tablesp. 

CATECHU — This is astringent and useful in diarrhea. The 
dose is % to 1 teasp of the tincture, combined with 1 tablesp 
chalk mixture. 

CHALK — ^This is astringent and anti-acid and is used as an 
antidote for poisoning by oxalic acid; also useful in diarrhea. 
Dose, 10 to 50 grains. 

CHARCOAL — ^This is antiseptic and absorbent, given largely 
for dyspepsia attended with flatulence and acidity. Dose, 2 to 
10 grains. 

COD LIVER OIL — This is demulcent and nutrient; useful in 
colds and chest diseases. Dose, 1 teasp to 1 tablesp, 2 or 3 
times a day. 

COLLODION — ^This is emolient, and painted on a wound it 
forms a skin, protecting it from exposure. 

CREAM OF TARTAR — This is diuretic and a pleasant spring 
medicine. Dose 1 teasp, in water, every morning, combined 
with the same quantity of Epsom salts. 

CREOSOTE — This is astringent and antiseptic, but a poison. 



216 THE HOUSEKEEPER'S REFERENCE BOOK 

and should be used with, great care. Useful for toothache. 
To be given internally only, by doctor's prescription. 

CORROSIVE SUBLIMATE — This is corrosive and antiseptic, 
and one of the most powerful remedies for destroying disease 
germs, but on account of its highly poisonous and corrosive 
nature, is highly dangerous to use. 

DANDELION ROOT — This is an hepatic stimulant, useful in 
cases of sluggish liver. Dose of the fluid extract, 1 to 2 teasp, 
in water, 3 times a day. 

DIALYZED IRON — ^^This is a tonic and can be taken by 
those who cannot digest the acid preparation of iron. Dose, 
10 drops in water after meals. It is also used as an antidote 
to arsenical poisoning. 

EPSOM SALTS — This is cathartic and mild and safe; useful 
in cases of obstinate constipation. Dose, i/^ oz to 1 oz in water. 

GENTIAN — This is a bitter tonic, valuable in cases of debil- 
ity of the digestive organs. Make an infusion and give small 
wineglassful as a dose. 

GINGER — This is an aromatic stimulant, given in cases of 
dyspepsia and flatulence. Dose of essence, 10 to 20 drops in 
water. 

GLYCERIN — ^This is emolient and prevents flatulence and 
acidity. Dose, 10 drops to 1 teasp in water. Used also exter- 
nally for softening the skin. 

GUM ARABIC — This is emolient and nutritive. A small 
piece allowed to dissolve in the mouth will relieve a cough. 

HORSE-RADISH — This is a relish and a stimulant, and 
useful as a spring medicine. 

IODINE — This is a resolvent and counter-irritant, used 
principally in the form of tincture or liniment, as an external 
application to reduce swellings, etc. 

IODOFORM — This is antiseptic, and in powder or ointment 
forms a good application for ulcers, etc. 

IPECAC — This is expectorant and emetic. In small doses 
it acts as an expectorant, relieving coughs, colds, etc., in 
large doses it forms a safe emetic, useful in cases of whooping 
cough, poison, etc. Dose as an emetic, 15 to 25 grains; in the 
syrup form as an expectorant, dose 5 to 35 drops; as an emetic, 
3 to 5 teasp. 

IRON — ^This is a tonic, and in its various forms is one of the 
best restoratives. Reduced iron, tincture of iron and dialyzed 
iron are the preparations most used. 

LANOLIN — This is emolient and useful for skin diseases. 

LEMON JUICE — This is citric acid and mixed with sugar 
and water forms a pleasant and refreshing drink for fever 
patients. 

LIME — ^This, when slaked and strained, forms a good addi- 
tion to infants' milk, when babies suffer from teething. When 
mixed with linseed oil, is a good application for burns. 



HEALTH HINTS 217 



LINSEED — This is a demulcent, and an infusion of the seed 
mixed with lemon juice is useful in colds. The clear infusion 
forms a good laxative. 

LINSEED MEAL — This is also demulcent, and is useful as a 
poultice, either alone or in conjunction with mustard. 

LICORICE POWDER — This is a laxative compound and a 
reliable remedy in cases of habitual constipation. Dose, 1 
teasp at bedtime. 

MAGNESIA— ^This, in calcined form, is a good laxative, use- 
ful in cases of dyspepsia, gout, sick headache and other com- 
plaints attended with acidity of the stomach and constipation. 
Dose, 1 teasp. In the citrate form it is also a useful and 
pleasant drink in hot weather. 

MALT EXTRACT — ^This is restorative and a good strength- 
ening medicine in cases of dyspepsia and pulmonary complaints. 

MANNA — This is a laxative, pleasant to the taste and 
replaces castor oil for children. Dose, % to 2 drams in milk. 

MILK SUGAR — This is recommended to replace ordinary 
sugar in infants' diet, as it does not ferment. 

MUSTARD — This is a counter-irritant and emetic, useful 
in the form of a poultice for a cold in the chest, and in cases 
of poisoning, as a drink, to induce vomiting. 

PEPPERMINT — ^This essence is an excellent remedy in cases 
of dyspepsia attended with flatulence. Dose, from 10 to 20 
drops in water. 

PEPSIN — This is a digestive, to be taken in the form of 
powder or ■ elixir, after each meal. Dose, 5 grains of the 
powder or 1 teasp of the elixir. 

POPPY CAPSULESi — These are a sedative and form a good 
fomentation for gum boils and painful swellings. Should be 
used in conjunction with camomile flowers, the whole to be 
boiled with water for some time, and applied as hot as 
possible. 

POTASH — The chloride of potash mixed with water makes 
a gargle in cases of sore throat and ulcerated mouth. A small 
lozenge held in the mouth is useful when it is not convenient 
to gargle. The citrate of potash is valuable in cases of gout 
and rheumatism, and in affections of the kidneys. It is slightly 
laxative. The permanganate of potash is a powerful antiseptic 
and in weak solution is much used as an injection. Is also 
a good general disinfectant. 

QUININE — This is perhaps the most universally used and is 
generally a valuable drug. Its principal uses are for reducing 
fevers, for nervous affections, and especially as a general tonic, 
in the form of quinine wine. Dose, 2 to 6 grains. 

RHUBARB — This is useful in disorders of the stomach, in 
combination with bicarbonate of soda. Dose, 1 to 15 grains. 

SALT — This is an emetic always handy in case of poisoning. 
To be given freely in warm water. 



218 THE HOUSEKEEPER'S REFERENCE BOOK 

SAL VOLATILE — ^^This is a stimulant and also an antacid, 
very useful in cases of flatulence; also as a stimulant in cases 
of faintness, etc. Dose, 20 to 30 drops in water. 

SENNA — This is a cathartic and a very well known and 
useful family remedy. To be given as in infusion or in the 
farm of a compound with figs, raisins, dates, etc. 

SODA — The bicarbonate of soda is useful in cases of flatu- 
lence and sour stomach; also as a gargle for sore throat and 
ulcerated mouth. Dose for internal use, % to i/4 teasp in 
water; as a gargle, 1 teasp to 1 glass of water. 

SULPHUR — ^^This is a useful laxative in hemorrhoids, in the 
form of a compound powder; also used externally as a lotion 
or ointment for skin disease. 

TURPENTINE — Applied externally, mixed with olive oil or 
camphorated oil, it makes a good liniment in cases of stiff 
joints, rheumatism, etc. 

VALERIAN — This is a stimulant for nervous cases; useful 
in hysteria. 

VASELINE — This is emolient and either compounded with 
other medicinal agents or alone forms an excellent appli- 
cation for wounds, etc. 

ZINC OXIDE — This is astringent and absorbent, and used 
largely externally as a powder and ointment, for its healing 
properties. 

Cough Syrnps and CompouiMls 

Flaxseed tea is soothing and good to loosen a cough. To 
1 oz whole flaxseed add 2 tablesp sugar, 2 tablesp lemon 
juice and 2 sticks shredded licorice root. Over this mixture 
pour 2 qts boiling water and let stand about four hours on 
back of stove, then strain. May be given in frequent doses of 
1 tablesp. — [J. S. A., Vt. 

I have found an effective cough cure in a mixture made 
'by boiling horse-radish roots in water, straining, adding 
sugar and boiling until it is a thick syrup. Take 1 teasp 
whenever necessary. This, of course, is only for unimportant 
colds, where it is not necessary to call a doctor. 

Put 1 qt horehound in 1 qt water and boil it down to 1 pt; 
then add 2 or 3 sticks of licorice, and when this has dissolved, 
add 1 teasp essence of lemon. Bottle and cork. Dose 1 teasp 
3 times a day, or at any time the cough may be particularly 
troublesome. 

For the cure of coughs, colds, asthma and whooping cough, 
the following preparation is said to be good: To 1 tablesp 
common tar, add 3 tablesp honey, yolks of 3 eggs and % pt 
wine. Beat the tar, eggs and honey well together with a 
knife and bottle for use. Dose: About 1 teasp every morning, 
noon and night before eating. 



HEALTH HINTS 219 



Soak 1 cup flaxseed over night. In tlie morning put 2 qts 
water in a kettle, a handful split-up licorice root and %, lb 
good raisins, broken in half. Let boil until the strength is 
thoroughly extracted, then add the soaked flaxseed. Let all 
boil % hour more, stirring, that the mixture may not burn. 
Dose: One teasp, warm or cold, 5 or 6 times a day. 

To 1% pts water add 2 large poppy-heads and 2 large lemons, 
and boil till they are soft. Press the lemons into the water, 
strain the liquor and add % dram saffron and 1 lb brown 
sugar. Boil all together till the sugar is dissolved, then stir 
until it is about ready to jelly. Strain it a second time and 
it will then be ready to use. 

A syrup for infants is made as follows: The ingredients 
are 1 lb best raisins, Vz oz anise seed and 2 sticks best, pure 
licorice. Split the raisins and extract the seeds, pound the 
anise seed and cut the licorice fine. Add to this mixture 3 qts 
strained, pure rain water, and boil it all down to 2 qts. Give 
a little dose 3 or 4 times a day. This syrup is harmless; the 
raisins are to strengthen, the anise seed is to expel the wind 
and the licorice acts as a mild physic. 

Mix together 1 pt gin or whisky, Vz pt glycerin, % lb rock 
candy and 1 oz horehound, which is an herb and must be 
steeped before adding to the first named ingredients. — 
[Mrs R. W. H., Me. 

Take 1 oz each spikenard, angelica, comfrey, horehound and 
campanula, well steeped and strained and make into a rich 
syrup with honey. The roots will cost about 25 cents and 
will make 1 qt of the liquid. Sugar may be used instead of 
honey. This will also relieve sufferers from asthma. — [Mrs M. 
A. J., Wis. 

The ingredients of another very good cough syrup are : One 
lb tar, 2 lb white sugar, 1 lb strained honey, 1 lb horehound 
candy and 2 large sticks licorice. Pour the tar into 2 qts 
boiling water and boil 2 hours, then set away to get cold. 
(Add water as it boils away.) Strain the tar water and add 
the other ingredients to it, and boil to a good syrup. Dose: 
1 teasp 3 or 4 times a day, or more if needed. — [Mrs T. V., Wis. 

An attack of coughing can sometimes be allayed by taking 
a lump of sugar saturated with spirits of turpentine. A few 
drops paregoric, oil of tar, spirits of camphor or essence of 
peppermint on 1 teasp sugar is also effective in emergencies. — 
[J. C, Mass. 

This is said to be a splendid remedy for coughs, especially 
where there is any soreness of the lungs: Put 2 tablesp flax- 
seed meal into 1 pt boiling water and cook five minutes, then 
add the juice of 1 lemon and 2 tablesp sugar. Dose: One 
teasp every hour, or if cough is very troublesome, dose can 
be doubled. This also acts as a laxative. — [Mrs W. L. S., O. 



220 THE HOUSEKEEPER'S REFERENCE BOOK 

Here is an old-fashioned cough remedy: To 1 cup molasses 
add 2 tablesp dark brown sugar and % lemon, cut fine. Boil 
over a slow fire until it begins to thicken, then remove and 
add 1 tablesp glycerin and vinegar enough to give a sharp 
taste. Dose: One teasp whenever cough is troublesome. — 
[S. A. W.. Ala. 

Here is a fine pine cough remedy: Put about 3 qts fresh 
picked pine needles in an agate or earthenware kettle, cover 
with water and let soak over night. In the morning put over 
the fire, and when it comes to a boil push back where it will 
simmer slowly several hours. Strain and add 1 lb sugar and 
boil to a syrup, then strain again and add i/^ pt gin, and 
bottle. Dose: One teasp every hour till relieved. Has cured 
many obstinate coughs, especially those left by grippe. — 
[Mrs W. C. D., N H. 

An onion cough syrup is made of 6 large onions cooked in 
1 qt vinegar until soft. Strain and squeeze out all the juice, 
add 3 lb sugar, and when cold add 2 oz tincture of lobelia. 
Very good for sore throat, and especially croup. — -[Mrs W. C. 
D., N H. 

Mix 2 oz glycerin, % oz concentrated oil of pine and % pt 
whisky. Shake before taking. Dose: One teasp to 1 tablesp 
every 3 or 4 hours. Be sure the ingredients are all pure and 
good. — [E. M. P., Mo. 

Boil 2 oz flaxseed in 1 qt water, strain and add to the water 
% lb sugar, 1 pt pure, strained honey, and the juice of 3 
lemons. Take 1 tablesp as a dose as frequently as necessary. 
[E. B. D., O. 

Take Vz lb dry horehound herbs, 3 tablesp flaxseed and 3 
tablesp ginger. Boil all in 3 qts water, then strain and add 
1 lb granulated sugar. Boil slowly, stirring often, until reduced 
to 1 qt of syrup. Take 1 or 2 teasp 5 times a day. — [Mrs M. 
W., Vt. 

An excellent cough remedy is made of 1 cup strained 
honey, 1/2 cup olive oil and the juice of 1 lemon. Cook five 
minutes, then beat thoroughly for three minutes, so that the 
ingredients will mix. Take 1 teasp every 2 hours. This is 
very effective in case of severe cough or cold on the lungs. 
[Mrs H. R. W., Mich. 

To make cough troches, mix together 1 oz each of powdered 
licorice root, powdered gum arable, powdered cubebs and 1 lb 
pulverized sugar. Add enough water to make a stiff paste 
like bread dough; roll out thin, and cut troches with an open- 
top thimble. Arrange upon sheets of paper and set away to dry. 
These troches will be found excellent. — [Mrs F. A., Ore. 

A pinch of a mixture of salt and sugar, taken now and 
then, will help to loosen an obstinate cough. Use 1 part salt 
to 2 parts sugar. — [A. G., Mass. 



HEALTH HINTS 221 



Whooping Cough Remedies 

Mix 1/4 lb ground elecampane root in % pt strained honey 
and ^ pt water. Put the ingredients in an earthen pot and 
place it in an oven with half the heat required to bake bread. 
Let it bake until about the consistency of strained honey. 
Administer in doses of 1 teasp before each meal to a child — 
if an adult, double the dose. 

To 2 tablesp molasses add 4 teasp castor oil, 2 teasp cam- 
phor and 2 teasp paregoric. Dose: % teasp 3 or 4 times a 
day. This will be found to be of great service when children 
have symptoms of croup. 

Unless there are complications, a tea or cough syrup made 
from chestnut leaves, and a laxative, are all that is necessary. 
Buy the leaves from a druggist, and follow directions on the 
package, for tea. If the syrup is preferred, add enough sugar 
to boil it down to proper consistency. Give as often as neces- 
sary. It is perfectly harmless, but needs a laxative occasion- 
ally. — [B. P. H., Okla. 

Take 1 oz each of thoroughwort, horehound, flaxseed, wood 
licorice stick and slippery elm. Simmer all together in 1 qt 
water until the strength is entirely extracted, then strain 
carefully. Add 1 pt best molasses and % lb white sugar. 
Simmer all together until like syrup, then add juice of 2 
lemons and bottle tightly. If kept in warm weather, a little 
spirit can be added. Cut or break the elm bark and licorice 
very fine. Dose: One tablesp 3 times a day. — [Mrs C. O. 
D., N H. 

Into % pt vinegar break I egg, beat, and add y^ lb rock 
candy. Dose from 3 to 4 tablesp a day. Here is another 
remedy: Slice V2. pt each of onions and garlic and stew them 
in % pt sweet oil in a covered dish. When all juice is extracted, 
strain and add V^. pt honey and 1 oz each of spirits of camphor 
and paregoric. Bottle and cork. Dose: One teasp 3 or 4 
times a day, or oftener. — [A. G., Mass. 

Mix well together 1 tablesp tar, 3 tablesp honey, yolks of 3 
fresh eggs, and % pt wine. Bottle. Dose: One teasp 3 times 
a day before meals. — [Mrs R. W. H., Me. 

Take 1 tablesp castor oil and 2 of syrup and mix well. Give 
1 teasp every hour. — [Mrs Mary J. L., Mich. 

Use the white of an qz%, beaten to a stifE froth and sweet- 
ened. — [B. E., Ore. 

Croup Cures 

Alum and sugar is an almost instantaneous remedy, if taken 
as soon as signs of croup appear. Use 1 part powdered alum 
to 2 parts sugar. Give 2 teasp as a dose. — [A. G., Mass. 

Mix together 2 teasp powdered alum, 1 tablesp molasses and 



222 THE HOUSEKEEPER'S REFERENCE BOOK 

1 cup hot water. Dose from 1 teasp to 1 tablesp every five 
minutes. — [Mrs H. W., Pa. 

The juice of onions, sweetened with brown sugar, is an 
agreeable and effective croup remedy. — [Ella L., N. Y. 

One teasp beat juice given every five minutes will help in 
oases of croup. So will white of egg with 1 teasp powdered 
alum stirred into it. Melted butter is another help, and lard 
and sugar mixed. If these remedies produce vomiting, so 
much the better. — [A. G., Mass. 

A quick relief for croup is an onion poultice. Slice the 
onions thin, putting them in a stewpan with just enough 
Vi^ater to keep from burning, and stir in a little corn meal. 
The onions may be used alone. Apply to throat and lungs, 
as warm as can be borne. — [Mrs C. B., N. H. 

Rub chest and throat of croup patient with turpentine and 
cover with flannel moistened with the oil. Also inhale the 
vapor. The turpentine may burn the skin, but sweet oil will 
relieve the burn. A strip of flannel wrung out of very hot 
water and put around the neck will also afford relief. 

Administer 1 teasp strong alum water and repeat dose every 
15 minutes until free vomiting occurs. Put the legs in hot 
water and then wrap in flannel. Place on the chest a poultice 
of corn meal sprinkled with mustard. Beware of cold drafts. 
As the attacks depart give a dose of magnesia, castor oil, or 
rhubarb. — [Mrs C. H., Pa. 

Mix equal parts of honey, linseed oil and Jamaica rum, and 
give 1 teasp as a dose three times a day, before meals, for 
child from 3 to 5 years — oftener, if the cough is very trouble- 
some. Pure whisky or brandy can be used instead of the 
Jamacia rum, if the latter cannot be obtained. This is Dr. 
Knight's specific for whooping cough. 

Sore Throat and Hoarseness 

The white of an egg, thoroughly beaten and mixed with 
lemon juice and sugar, will relieve hoarseness. Take 1 teasp 
occasionally as a dose. — [A. G., Mass. 

Place a piece of fresh rock-lime, size of an egg, in a quart 
bowl and pour 1 cup cold water over it. Have ready a funnel 
large enough to cover the bowl, and when the lime begins 
to slake, invert the funnel over the bowl and inhale the 
furnes of the lime as long as it steams, taking care to protect 
the eyes from the fumes. In addition to this treatment, take 
a small swallow of pure witch-hazel every hour, and the hoarse- 
ness will soon disappear. — [Mrs H. L., Va. 

This is effective treatment in cases of quinsy sore throat or 
tonsilitis: Make a gargle of 1 teasp each salt, saleratus and 
borax, and 1 pt hot water. Warm the mixture each time and 
gargle 3 or 4 times a day. After gargling swab out the throat 



HEALTH HINTS 223 



with a cotton wool swab securely fastened to a holder and 
dipped in this mixture: 1 oz glycerin diluted with 1 oz extract 
of iron. The throat, from ear to ear, should be covered with 
a hot iiaxseed meal or bread poultice, to be renewed every 1 or 
2 hours. — [Mrs H. L., Va. 

For sore throat, proceed as follows: Before retiring dip a 
folded white cloth in a cold salt water solution (use 4 tablesp 
salt to 1 pt water), bind it around the throat, with a dry cloth 
over it, and go to sleep, with the expectation that when you 
arise next morning, the soreness will be gone — unless it is an 
extraordinarily severe or chronic case. — [M. S., Tex. 

Gargles for sore throat are made of borax, or soda, or salt, 
or alum, or peroxide of hydrogen — any of these mixed with, 
water. A few drops tincture of myhrr or listerine may be 
added to the borax or soda solutions. Use gargle every hour 
faithfully until cured. — [A. G., Mass. 

Mix 1 gill strong cider vinegar, 1 tablesp salt, 1 tablesp 
strained honey and a pod of red pepper together, boil a few 
minutes, then pour over it % pt of strong sage tea. Take 
1 teasp as often as necessary. This has been used in our 
family for throat and nasal troubles with excellent results. — 
[Mrs E. A. R., Vt. 

The sweetened juice of a baked lemon (use enough sugar 
to make it syrupy) will relieve sore throat and hoarseness. So 
will equal parts of glycerin and lemon juice mixed. Take a 
little as often as necessary, but not often enough to sicken the 
stomach. — [Mrs J. C, N. Y. 

Miscellaneous Cold Cures 

For cold in the chest, rub with a hot mixture of 2 tablesp 
melted lard and 1 teasp each of spirits of camphor, turpentine 
and kerosene. Cover with flannel. Do this morning and 
evening for three days. Use a weaker mixture for children. — • 
[Mrs F. H., Md. 

Here's a good cure for colds: Boil 2 oz flaxseed in 1 qt 
water, then strain and add 2 oz rock candy, % pt honey and 
juice of 3 lemons. Let boil well. Dose: One cup at bedtime 
and % cup between meals, taken hot. — [Mrs W. S., Wyo. 

When baby's head is all stopped up with a cold, grease 
the bottoms of his feet, palms and nose thoroughly with pure 
lard, and see how quickly relief will follow. — [B. E., Ore. 

Sudden, sharp, shooting pains in the side, if attended to at 
once, can frequently be banished by repeated applications of 
a mixture of 2 parts vaseline and 1 part English (ground) 
mustard. Spread on thickly and cover with a cloth. — [R. M. 
F., Me. 

This onion gruel is excellent to check a cold: Slice a few 
onions and boil them in 1 pt new milk. Stir in a sprinkle of 



224 THE HOUSEKEEPER'S REFERENCE BOOK 

oatmeal and a very little salt. Boil until the onions are tender, 
then sup rapidly and go to bed. — [Mrs. R. W. H., Me. 

Drinking this mixture hot, before retiring, will often prevent 
a cold, after one has become thoroughly chilled: Slice up 1 
lemon and remove seeds, add % cup sugar and 1 tablesp ginger, 
and pour over 1 pt boiling water. Let it steep a little and 
settle. Drink it as hot as you can, and get into bed imme- 
diately. — [Mrs W. H. L., Minn. 

To break up an insipient cold in the head, smell strong 
ammonia every 5 or 10 minutes. Remember that a threaten- 
ing cold can be warded off by getting the blood in rapid cir- 
culation. — [A. G., Mass. 

Sweet, heavy cream is excellent to use in place of cod liver 
oil, and far pleasanter to take. — [B. E., Ore. 

The powdered berries of the ripe, red, non-poisonous sumach, 
smoked as a cigaret, forcing the smoke out through the nos- 
trils, will afford immense relief in cases of catarrh, and has 
even been known to effect cures before many ounces were 
used. — [P. J., Neb. 

Rhemnatism Remedies 

There are many different kinds of rheumatism and hardly 
two people suffer exactly alike, but as a general rule, it may 
be said that rheumatism is primarily the result of wrong feed- 
ing, which affects the blood — rheumatism being a blood dis- 
ease, due to the presence of uric acid, because the kidneys 
could not keep up with the excessive work piled onto them. 
Wet feet and exposure to cold are contributory causes. Every 
condition must be known before remedies can be prescribed. 
Consult a physician, but avoid "patent" medicines, which all 
too often only aggravate the matter. Regulate diet and bowels, 
eat fruit and vegetables, and drink plenty of pure water. 

A remedy for rheumatism and stiff joints is made of 1 pt 
spirits of camphor, 1 pt coon, bear or skunk oil and 1 pt 
spirits of turpentine. Shake before using and apply 3 times 
daily. Rub vigorously for 20 to 30 minutes. 

A German recipe for rheumatism calls for % oz each of 
oils of hemlock and cedar, 1 oz each of oils origanum and 
sassafras, 1 oz each of aqua ammonia and pulverized capsicum 
and l^ oz each spirits of turpentine and gum camphor. Put 
these ingredients in a qt bottle and fill it with pure alcohol. 

A good liniment useful for rheumatic complaints is made 
of 2 oz each of olive oil, spirits of camphor and chloroform, 
and 1 teasp sassafras oil. First add the oil of sassafras to the 
olive oil, then the spirits of camphor, and shake well before 
putting in the chloroform. Keep well corked, as the chloro- 
form evaporates easily. Shake well before using. Apply 3 or 
4 times daily, rubbing it in well. 



HEALTH HINTS 225 



Some of the following remedies are said to be effective in 
cases of rheumatism : 1 — Apply sweet oil to the affected parts, 
rubbing in vigorously before a hot fire, just before going to 
bed. The bowels should be kept regular. 2 — Bathe the parts 
affected with water in which potatoes have been boiled, using 
the water just as hot as can be borne. Do this just before 
going to bed. 3 — Bathe the parts affected with Vz oz pulver- 
ized saltpeter put in l^ pt sweet oil. 

Rheumatism has sometimes been eased by a persistent use 
of lemon juice, either undiluted, or in the form of lemonade. 

It is said that for inflammatory rheumatism in the joints, 
linseed meal poultices made with a strong decoction of valerian 
root are very effective. Poultices made of stewed pumpkin are 
also helpful. 

A good liniment which I can recommend is made of % pt 
spirits of turpentine, 1 pt vinegar, 10 drops oil of sassafras 
and the yolk of 1 egg. — [G. O. S., Pa. 

A rheumatism liniment in use in our family is made of 1 
part olive or sweet oil to 2 parts spirits of camphor and % 
part cayenne pepper. Shake well before using. — [A. S. B., 



An excellent remedy for rheumatism is made of 1 oz each 
of turpentine and gum camphor, 2 oz hartshorn and % pt 
alcohol. Shake before using, and rub in well.^[Mrs M. A. 
J., Wis. 

Here is a good rheumatism cure: Two oz English camomile 
flower, 2 oz celery seed, put in 2 qts water, and simmer down to 
3 pts. Strain, bottle and keep in a cool place. Dose: One 
wineglassful before each meal. — [Mrs R. W. H., Me. 

This simple rule, it is claimed, will cure rheumatic troubles: 
Dissolve 1/2 teasp bicarbonate of soda in % cup warm water. 
Take this dose three times a day, Yz hour before eating, for 
3 consecutive days, then skip 3 days, then take it again for 
3 days, and so on for 6 weeks or more, according to the severity 
of the case. The soda will neutralize the excess of acid in the 
system. — [E. A. M. 

GoOise oil mixed with a little wintergreen oil makes a good 
liniment for rheumatism. Salcylic acid is useful in cases of 
rheumatism, but should be taken only by doctor's prescription, 
as it can work great harm if taken in undue quantities when 
the system is not prepared to benefit by it. — [A. G., Mass. 

Take equal parts of strong vinegar, sweet oil and turpen- 
tine, and put in a well-corked bottle. Bathe the parts affected 
with rheumatism with hot water, wipe dry and then apply this 
liniment, rubbing it in well. Do this every night until relieved. 
[Mrs R. D., Wis. 

This is blood purifying and often will give relief in case of 
rheumatism: Mix together % teasp red pepper, 1 teasp sul- 



226 THE HOUSEKEEPER'S) REFERENCE BOOK 

phur and 2 teasp molasses. Take this as a dose every morning 
for a week, then skip a week, then take it for another week, 
and you will experience great relief. — [M. M., Pa. 

Poultices and Plasters 

Flaxseed meal poultices are made as follows: Have 1 pt 
water boiling in a saucepan and stir in sufficient flaxseed meal 
to make it stiff enough so it will not run when spread — it 
will probably take nearly 2 cups of the meal. Boil a few 
minutes, then spread the desired size on a larger cotton cloth 
and fold over the four sides of the cloth, so none of the 
contents can leak out. Apply to the affected parts as hot as 
can be borne, covering with a flannel cloth. Have ready 
another hot poultice as soon as the first one has cooled, the 
contents of which can be heated over and used again. 

Bread poultices, used for boils, felons, etc., are made by 
crumbling light bread, free from crusts, into boiling milk and 
cooking to the proper consistency. Add a small piece of lard, 
and apply hot in cloths, same as directed for flaxseed meal 
poultices. If it is desired to hasten the formation of pus, "to 
bring to a head," baking soda should be added. This makes 
it a little more painful, but disposes of the trouble more 
quickly. Bread soaked in vinegar makes a good poultice for 
isprains and bruises. 

Mustard plasters will not blister if mixed with white of egg 
or part sweet oil. From % to % part flour added to the 
ground English mustard makes a "slower" plaster, good to 
use for children. Use cold water and do not boil, but other- 
wise proceed the same as with flaxseed meal poultice, by 
spreading on cloth, etc. Mustard plasters need not be renewed, 
as a general rule. After removing a mustard plaster, rub sweet 
oil on the affected part, to soothe and allay possible itching. 

Dry mustard plasters are made by spreading a thin solution 
of gum over clear and smooth white cloths, and sprinkling 
coarsely powdered black mustard seed evenly over them. Dry 
in a warm place. When wanted, they may be cut any size 
or shape. Before applying, quickly dip in tepid water. 

A good plaster can be made of 2 oz beeswax and 6 oz each 
of tar and resin, melted together and spread on muslin. 

This is an excellent poultice for cases where pneumonia is 
threatened: Peel and chop fine 6 or 8 onions, put in a sauce- 
pan over a hot fire, add about the same quantity of rye meal 
and enough vinegar to make a thick paste. Stir well and let 
simmer 8 to 10 minutes, then put in a cotton bag of suitable 
size and apply to patient's chest, as hot as can be borne. 
When it cools apply another and reheat the first by steaming. 
From 4 to 6 applications are usually enough to start profuse 



HEALTH HINTS 227 



perspiration. Another poultice, more quickly prepared, is 
made of lard and ground English mustard, spread on flannel 
and applied to chest and back. 

An excellent plaster is made of 2 tablesp flaxseed meal and 
2 teasp ground mustard. Mix with boiling water to proper 
consistency. — [Mrs. A. A. S., N. J. 

This is a good stimulating spice plaster: Mix together 1 
oz each of powdered cloves, ground cinnamon and ground 
allspice, 2 oz ground black pepper and 3 or 4 oz flour. Mix 
to a paste with a very little water and spread on muslin. If 
a more powerful plaster is required, substitute cayenne for 
black pepper. — [A. G., Mass. 

If, when making mustard plasters, ground ginger and mus- 
tard are used in equal quantities, and diluted with about % 
the quantity of flour, the plaster will not blister. The ginger 
is better for all colds of a grip nature. If mustard plasters 
are mixed with hot water, they act quicker. — [F. T., N. D. 

For Headache and Neuralgic Pains 

Mix together equal parts of opodeldoc, spirits of wine (refined 
alcohol) and sal ammoniac. Apply as any other lotion. — 
[Mrs J. C, N. Y. 

Hop pillows are good for nervous patients and those afflicted 
with headaches and neuralgia. Heat them well and place 
under the head. — [E. L. M., N. Y. 

A simple remedy for neuralgia is horse-radish. Grate and 
mix it in vinegar, the same as for table purposes, and use as 
a plaster. — [J. S. A., Vt. 

Half cover a thin cloth with flour, then dust ginger liberally 
over the flour, fold the cloth over, thoroughly dampen with 
whisky, and pin on, with the ginger side next to the face. 
[W. H. H., Ariz. 

Neuralgia is a nerve disease, and therefore quiet is 
necessary to the patient, to soothe the nerves. Hot applica- 
tions will sometimes relieve or put the pain to rout. Drinking 
very hot milk with a pinch of salt in it will sometimes work 
wonders. — [M. E. S.^ N. Y. 

Neuralgia of head and face may often be relieved by the 
application of a spice plaster of ginger, cinnamon, cloves, etc., 
instead of the usual mustard plaster. — [P. J., Neb. 

A pinch of salt on the tongue, followed 10 minutes after- 
ward by a drink of cold water, will often cure a sick headache. 
Other headaches will sometimes yield to a hot foot bath and 
hot water applications to back of neck. — [B. E., Ore. 

For a sick headache, nothing is better than a cleaning out 
of the stomach. To do this quickly and easily, simply drink 
lukewarm water until you can't drink any more. Drink until 
you're "full to running over," and your stomach will empty 



228 THE HOUSEKEEPER'S REFERENC E BOOK 

itself without any difficult retching. Follow the cleaning out 
^ith a small dose of bicarbonate of soda in water, and lie down 
to rest. — [M, A. M., Wis. 

Remedies for Bowel Disorders 

The following is said to be an excellent cure for diarrhea: 
To 2 oz laudanum add 2 oz each spirits of camphor, essence 
of peppermint and Hoffman's anodyne, and then add 2 drams 
tincture of cayenne pepper and 1 oz tincture of ginger. Mix 
all together. Dose: One teasp in a little water and % teasp 
an hour afterward in 1 tablesp brandy. This preparation, it 
is said, will check diarrhea in 10 minutes and abate other 
premonitory symptoms of cholera immediately. In cases of 
cholera, it has been used with great success to restore reaction, 
by outward application. 

In cases of diarrhea it is important that the patient keep 
quiet. Bind a stout piece of flannel tightly around the abdo- 
men, so as to be doubled in front, and lie down in bed. Eat 
nothing but parched rice, boiled and seasoned with salt. 
Drink no liquids. 

To make blackberry cordial for diarrhea, mash Yz bu black- 
"berries, boil slowly, and then strain through muslin or flannel. 
To the strained juice add % lb allspice and 2 oz each of cin- 
namon and cloves. Bring to a slow boil, after which add for 
each pt of the juice 1 lb of sugar. Boil 10 or 15 minutes, then 
remove from fire, and while cooling, add % gal best French 
brandy. 

Here is another blackberry cordial recipe: To I qt black- 
berry juice add 1 lb sugar, 1 tablesp each of cloves, allspice, 
cinnamon and nutmeg. Boil all together 15 minutes, then add 
a wineglass of whisky, brandy or rum. Bottle while hot, cork 
tight and seal. This Is almost a specific in diarrhea. One dose, 
which is a wineglassful for an adult — half that quantity for 
a child — will often cure diarrhea. It can be taken 3 or 4 
times a day, if the case is severe. 

To make slippery elm bark tea, break the bark into bits, 
pour on boiling water, and let it draw like any ordinary tea, 
then strain and sweeten. This can be taken for bowel dis- 
orders, and in cases of cold can be used with the addition of 
lemon juice. — [E. M. T., Kan. 

"When there is urgent need for a diarrhea remedy, and 
the usual cures are not at hand, the following will help out 
in the emergency: Mix together 3 teasp salt, 4 teasp black 
pepper and Vz cup each of cider vinegar and warm water. 
For an adult dose, take 1 tablesp every 30 minutes, or more 
in severe cases. — [Mrs H. W., Pa. 



HEALTH HINTS 229 



When the baby is troubled with colic, rub the abdomen well 
with warm sweet oil, and it will cause relief almost at once. — ■ 
[Bertha E., Ore. 

A cure for mild cases of cholera infantum is to use the beaten 
white of egg with a little sugar added. Give 1 tablesp or more 
every hour. — [Mrs W. S., Wyo. 

For sour stomach take % teasp bicarbonate of soda in a 
little water and repeat dose in half hour. If accompanied by 
flatulence, add a few drops essence of peppermint. Use half 
doses for babies. 

For stomach cramps and colic, usually caused by indigestion, 
administer a purgative injection, and apply warm plasters, 
bags, bottles or bricks to stomach, bowels and feet. Mix equal 
parts castor oil and spirits of turpentine, and take 1 or 2 
tablesp of this mixture. In mild cases, 6 to 12 drops essence 
of peppermint in water will do. 

Constipation of the bowels is a common complaint, but all 
so-called remedies only make a bad matter worse. To effect a 
real cure one must be patient and persistent. The first thing 
to be done is to establish the habit of attempting to evacuate 
the bowels at a particular hour of every day. Whether suc- 
cessful or not^ the effort should on no account be omitted. 
Drink plenty of good water, eat liberally of fruit and vege- 
tables, substitute brown and bran bread for white bread, and 
avoid puddings, cakes, pies, doughnuts, etc. In short, eat 
laxative foods and drink laxative liquids. Exercise between 
meals. Bathe frequently and use water injections. Be regu- 
lar, systematic and sensible. You can effect a cure — so don't 
give up. 

Obstinate cases of constipation have sometimes been cured 
with charcoal. Take 2 tablesp of the pulverized charcoal at a 
dose, and repeat every hour, until it has the desired effect, 
which ought to be in about 10 to 12 hours. It is a slow but 
sure cure and has the advantage of being perfectly harmless. 
A tablesp 2 or 3 times a day will promote regularity. In 
smaller doses it may be taken to correct bad breath and to 
prevent belching of wind from the stomach. 

Scalds and Bums 

If your clothing catches fire, DON'T run, but lie down and 
roll around, and scream at the top of your voice. The rolling 
will help to put out the flames, and by lying down you save 
your head from fire and the deadly inhaling of flames. The 
screaming will likely bring help. Roll yourself in a woolen 
blanket or rug, if you can, or when help arrives tell them to 
give you these articles, and to throw water over you. Above 
all, don't lose your head and you'll have some chance of saving 
your life. — [A. G. 



230 THE HOUSEKEEPER'S REFERENCE BOOK 

A practical remedy to have on the medicine shelf is a bottle 
of collodion. When a burn or cut occurs, wash the wound 
quickly and pour on a drop or two of the collodion. The effect 
is instantaneous. An artificial skin is immediately formed over 
the hurt. The collodion is a strong disinfectant, so the sore 
heals rapidly and no further discomfort will be felt. — [J. A. W. 

Molasses and flour is the best thing for burns or scalds, no 
matter how severe. As soon as possible pour the molasses 
over the burn, then cover thickly with flour and wrap cloth 
around. The molasses keeps the flour moist and prevents it 
from pulling the little hairs in the skin, and both together 
keep the air out. If this simple remedy would be used before 
the doctor gets there with his linseed oil and cotton, many 
valuable lives would be saved. — [Mrs A. T., Del. 

Immediately make a paste of bicarbonate of soda and water 
and cover entirely the burned part. Tie up with a cloth and 
keep renewed until all soreness has disappeared, which will 
probably be, according to the burn, from 3 to 12 hours. This 
will not alone heal, but prevent any blister. — [Mrs L. C. P., 
Miss. 

Add 2 teasp tincture of arnica to 1 pt sweet oil, for use in 
the case of scalds or burns. In either scalds or burns the first, 
best, and often the only remedies required are sheets of wad- 
ding or cotton wool; in default of these, toilet powder, flour, 
magnesia, chalk, pure lard, or oil should be used. These sev- 
eral articles will exclude the air from the injured part. 

To make chalk ointment for scalds and burns, mix as much 
prepared chalk as you can into some pure lard, so as to form 
a thick ointment. To make lime and oil ointment, take equal 
parts of common linseed oil and lime water, and shake well. 
Soak lint with this, and apply to burns and scalds. 

A poultice of tea leaves will afford almost immediate relief 
in cases of burns. — [Mrs F. L., Miss. 

Make a paste of 1 cup lard and whites of two eggs, and 
apply to burns. When it dries, make a fresh application. — 
[Mrs A. A., Ga. 

Pie crust, without salt, is one of the best applications for 
a burn. Roll thin, and apply to the entire surface of the burn, 
and leave till it drops off. No inflammation or scar will remain, 
but a second application may be necessary. — [B. E., Ore. 

One teacup lard, whites of 2 eggs made into a paste and 
applied will certainly help a burn. Change as often as it gets 
dry. — [Mrs A. A., Ga. 

Apply a poultice of tea leaves and an immediate relief is 
obtained. — [Mrs F. L., Miss. 

A good remedy for a scald is a poultice of grated raw pota- 
toes, bound on the burn. The poultice should be changed 
every hour until the burn heals. — [Q. McF., Ga. 



HEALTH HINTS 231 



The instant and free application of a mild, soft soap to a 
fresh burn almost immediately removes the fire from the flesh. 
If the pain is very severe, apply linseed oil, and then dust 
over with fine flour. — [M. A. P., 111. 

A glue mixture made of 1 lb white glue melted in 1 qt water, 
with 2 oz glycerin and 6 drams carbolic acid added, makes an 
excellent elastic covering for burns. — [Mrs W. H. L., Minn. 

A mixture of linseed oil, whiting and cider vinegar to about 
the consistency of thick paint should be always kept on hand, 
in case of burns or scalds. It has been used in both hospital 
and private practice for over 40 years by a noted physician, who 
says no application can compare with it as regards relief of 
pain and curative results. Spread on linen and apply. — 
[R. M. F., Me. 

For carbolic acid burns use alcohol. If you have no alcohol 
at hand, use brandy or whisky, or even beer, as each contain 
an amount of alcohol. It is wise to keep some alcohol on 
hand when using carbolic acid in case of burns. — [Mrs A. L. 
A., N. Y. 

If you burn your hand, put it in cold milk immediately and 
keep it there about 10 minutes, then dredge with flour or 
starch. Burns can be greatly relieved by covering with wet 
cloths dipped in a solution of alum — 4 oz to I cit water. Keep 
wet until healed. Powdered alum, fresh lard and white of 
egg, mixed, is also very soothing. — [A. G., Mass. 

Outs and Bruises 

To stop the bleeding of a cut (unless a vein or artery was 
severed) use equal parts of arnica and warm water, or strong 
alum water — about 1 heaping teasp alum to 1 cup water. 

When the blood from a cut is bright vermilion color and 
flows in spirts and jerks, an artery has been severed, and a 
physician should be summoned as hastily as possible. Mean- 
while apply a ligature between the wound and the heart, a 
little way above the wound. (A ligature is a narrow bandage 
twisted very tight, to stop the flow of blood in veins and 
arteries.) If the wound is so located that a ligature cannot 
be applied, endeavor to stop the flow of blood by pressure of 
fingers, until surgical help arrives. Ice placed directly on the 
wound will sometimes coagulate the blood and reduce the flow. 

Cuts should be cleaned of all foreign matter as quickly as 
possible. Use peroxide of hydrogen, arnica, turpentine, witch- 
hazel, alcohol, alum, or a solution of carbolic acid. Clean cuts 
heal quickly. Salt will stop the bleeding of small cuts and so 
will powdered resin. Bind with antiseptic cloths. 

Oil of eucalyptus is one of the best antiseptic and healing 
drugs. If applied to a fresh cut it will seldom get sore, and 
will heal without pus. — [Mrs W. L. S., O. 



232 THE HOUSEKEEPER'S REFERENCE BOOK 

A good antiseptic for bathing cuts and wounds is composed 
of 20 parts each, of listerine and glycerin and 1 part carbolic 
acid. A solution of boracic acid is also good. Another healing 
lotion is made of 1 oz lanolin or unsalted suet, 20 grains cam- 
phor and yz oz glycerin, melted together and then allowed 
to cool. 

A bruise may be treated with either heat or cold. Apply 
iiannels wrung out of boiling water or ice water, and continue 
applications for Vz hour. If this is done immediately, there 
will be no discoloration. Arnica or witch-hazel may be added 
to the cold water with good effect. Poultices of bread and 
vinegar are also good. 

Salves and Liiniments 

A liniment good for wounds, stiff joints, rheumatism, etc, 
is arnica liniment, made as follows: Add 2 tablesp tincture 
of arnica to 1 pt sweet oil. 

This is a good chilblain liniment: To 1 oz camphorated 
spirits of wine, add Vz oz of sub-acetate of lead (liquor). Mix 
well and apply 3 or 4 times a day. 

A good camphor liniment is made as follows: Sixteen oz 
rectified spirits, 2 oz aqua ammonia, 2 oz camphor and 5 drops 
oil of lavender. 

Here is a recipe for the old-fashioned Good Samaritan lini- 
ment: To 2 qts pure alcohol add 1 oz each oil of sassafras, 
hemlock, spirits of turpentine, tinctures of cayenne, catechu, 
guac and laudanum, 4 oz tincture of myrrh, 2 oz oil of origa- 
num, 2 oz gum camphor, Yz oz oil of wintergreen and 1^^ oz 
chloroform. 

A good liniment, claimed to be very effective for rheumatism 
pains, is made of 2 oz each olive oil, spirits of camphor and 
chloroform, and 1 teasp oil of sassafras. Add the oil of sassa- 
fras to the olive oil, then the spirits of camphor, and shake 
well before putting in the chloroform. Keep well corked and 
shake before using. Apply 3 or 4 times a day, rubbing well. 

A liniment for sore throat is made of 2 oz gum camphor, 1 
dram castile soap, shaved fine, 1 tablesp oil of turpentine, % 
oz oil of origanum, % oz opium and 1 pt alcohol. Bottle and 
cork securely, and let stand a week or ten days. For external 
use only. Bathe the parts freely 2 or 3 times a day. 

Here is a good liniment for those suffering with spinal 
trouble: Take a pint bottle and put into it 1 oz each of oil 
of origanum, wormwood, spirits of turpentine and gum cam- 
phor, and then fill the bottle with the best alcohol. 

The old-fashioned brown salve is made as follows: Take 
5 lb resin, % lb each Burgundy pitch, beeswax and matton 
tallow, 1 oz each oil of hemlock, balsam of fir, oil of origanum, 
oil of red cedar and venice turpentine, and % oz oil of worm- 



HEALTH HINTS 233 



wood. Melt the first-named ingredients together, then add the 
oils, stirring well, after which pour into cold water and work 
like wax until it is cool enough to roll. 

The well-known balm of Gilead salve is made as follows: 
Take % lb mutton tallow, 2 oz balm of Gilead buds, 1 oz white 
pine gum, 1 oz red precipitate, 1 oz hard soap and 1 tablesp 
sugar. Stew the buds in the tallow until the strength is 
obtained, then strain. Scrape the soap and add it with the 
other ingredients to the tallow. Use sufficient sweet oil to 
make it the proper consistency to spread easily upon cloth. 
When nearly cool stir in the red precipitate, mixing thoroughly. 

A good salve for felons is made as follows: Burn 1 tablesp 
copperas, then pulverize it and mix it with the yolk of an egg. 
This will cure a felon in 24 hours, after which apply a healing 
lotion. 

This is a fine salve easily made at home: One lb each of 
bitter-sweet and sweet-elder roots, % lb each of hop (vines 
and leaves), and garden plaintain (top and roots) and 2 oz 
of tobacco. Boil all in rain water, to get out the strength, 
then put the herbs in a thick cloth bag, press out the juice and 
boil down to % pt. Then add. 1 lb unsalted lard or sweet 
oil and 1 oz each of beeswax and resin. Simmer over a slow 
fire until the water is all evaporated. 

A salve which the Russians use for all kinds of wounds is 
made of equal parts yellow wax and sweet oil, slowly melted 
together, and a small quantity of glycerin stirred into it while 
cooling. 

A black salve, said to be very healing, is made as follows: 
Melt together 3 qts olive oil and 3 oz each of common resin 
and beeswax, raise almost to the boiling point, then gradually 
add 2% lb of pulverized red lead, if in summer; if in winter, 
use % lb less of the red lead. In a short time the lead will 
be taken up by the oil, and the mixture will become brown 
or black. When it has reached this stage, remove from the 
fire, and when nearly cold add % oz pulverized camphor. 

This liniment has the value of being harmless and easily 
made at home: Thoroughly beat I egg, then add 1 cup each 
of sharp vinegar and turpentine. Put in a bottle and shake 
well. — [Mrs R. D., Wis. 

Here is a good salve for burns: Melt together beeswax and 
lard, each about the size of a walnut. While hot add 1 tablesp 
linseed oil. — [C. L. A., O. 

This is a good salve for fresh wounds: Melt together 1 pt 
olive oil, 14 oz beeswax, and Vz oz resin. Then add 1 teasp 
lard and 1 oz powdered borax. — [B. B. D., O. 

This recipe has been in our family over a hundred years. 
It can be applied to old sores and fresh wounds. To 3 lb 
lard add % lb resin and % lb beeswax. Put the ingredients 
in an earthen dish over a good, hot fire and stir 3 hours, then 



234 THE HOUSEKEEPER'S REFERENCE BOOK 

add 2 oz oil of spike and stir 1 hour longer. — [Mrs T. V., Wis. 

This is called magnetic ointment, and is claimed to be good 
for man and beast: To 1 lb elder bark add 1 lb spikenard and 
1 lb yellow-dock root. Boil these in 2 gals water down to 
1 gal, then strain and press the strength out of the roots, and 
boil the liquid down to Vz gal, after which add 8 lb best resin, 
1 lb beeswax, and tallow enough to soften. Work into small 
rolls and apply by warming and spreading on linen. — 
[Mrs M. A. J., Wis. 

This ointment is excellent for piles, ulcers, burns and scalds: 
To 1 oz lard add 1 dram extract of stramonium. — [Mrs H. 
W., Pa. 

This is a good lotion for tetter: To 1 qt pure cider vinegar 
add 1 oz blood root. Shake well and let it stand a few hours. 
Bathe the parts affected 2 or 3 times a day until cured. — 
[B. E., Ore. 

Powdered slippery elm bark made into a poultice by mixing 
with either hot or cold water and laid right next to a wound 
will draw out inflammation and help the healing process at the 
same time. — [C. L. A., O. 

A simple salve, very helpful for cases of erysipelas, is made 
of scraped carrot and unsalted butter stewed together. — • 
[Mrs M. P., 111. 

This is fine for ringworm and scald head: Melt together 
equal parts of tar and mutton tallow, and stir well until cold. 
[Mrs H. W., Pa. 

This is Dr Daniels' recipe for chloroform liniment: To 1 oz 
sweet oil add % oz oil of sassafras and 4 oz aqua ammonia. 
Shake well, and then add 1 oz laudanum, 2 oz tincture of 
arnica, and % oz chloroform. This is fine for rheumatism, 
sprains, etc. Rub in thoroughly. Shake well before using. — • 
[Mrs M. A. J., Wis. 

This is a fine household liniment: Mix equal parts sweet 
oil, spirits of camphor and turpentine. A little ammonia can 
be added, but that makes it rather strong. — [Mrs H. W., Pa. 

This is a sort of cure-all liniment. It will give quick relief 
in cases of sort throat, cold on the chest, bruises, etc. Add to 
kerosene all the gum camphor it will dissolve, then add equal 
part sweet oil. — [Mrs T. V., Wis. 

This is a good ointment for itching skin: To 3 oz fresh, 
unsalted butter add a lump of beeswax the size of a hickory 
nut, 5 tablesp ground juniper berries and 3 tablesp ground 
cloves. Melt and mix well and when nearly cool add 1 tablesp 
sulphur. — [Mrs G. O. S., Pa. 

This is an ointment for eczema, open sores, etc., and, it is 
said, will also heal mange on dogs and skin sores on other 
animals: To 1 tablesp pure witch hazel add 1 tablesp glycerin 
and 2 tablesp oxide of zinc. Mix to a cream. — [Mrs H. L., Va. 

Camphor liniment is made as follows: To 16 oz best alcohol 



HEALTH HINTS 235 



(rectified spirits), add 2^/^ oz aqua ammonia, 2 oz spirits of 
camplior and 6 drops oil of lavender. Another way is to mix 
together camphorated oil and spirits of turpentine, of each 2 
parts, 1 part water of hartshorn and 1 part laudanum. Shake 
well. 

Here is another camphor liniment: To 2 oz spirits of cam- 
phor add 1 oz spirits of turpentine, % oz laudanum, % oz 
castile soap, finely powdered and 3 oz alcohol. Put in a bottle 
and let remain three days in a warm place, shaking frequently. 
This liniment should be gently warmed before using. Valu- 
able in cases of whooping cough and bronchitic affections. 
May be advantageously rubbed in on the chest and along 
the spine. 

Camphorated oil is made as follows: Put 2 oz gum cam- 
phor in 1 pt of olive oil, cork the bottle and expose the 
materials to a moderate heat by placing the bottle in warm 
water. As an external stimulant application it is more power- 
ful than the spirits of camphor. To obtain its full value, the 
parts treated should be covered with flannel and oil silk. This 
camphorated oil is a valuable liniment in cases of rheumatism 
and other painful affections, like sore throat and inflamed 
bowels. 

Spirits of camphor may easily be made at home, for cam- 
phor may be dissolved without limit in alcohol. A good pro- 
portion for family use is 2 oz of gum camphor to 1 pt of 
alcohol. 

This is a good itch ointment: To 1 lb of clear melted suet 
add 1 lb olive oil. When melted, strain and add 3 oz each of 
alum, niter and sulphate of zinc. Mix until the powders are 
well incorporated with the oil. 

This is a fine cooling and healing salve: Take 3 lb of fresh 
elder leaves and bruise them, 4 lb of beef suet and 2 lb of 
lard. Boil all together until the leaves become crisp, and 
then squeeze through a linen cloth. Elder flower ointment 
is made the same way, using 1 lb of flowers and 1 lb of lard. 

This liniment will relieve rheumatism: To 1 gill alcohol 
add 1 beef's gall, 1 gill spirits of turpentine, 1 gill sweet oil 
and 4 oz camphor gum. Put all in a bottle and shake well. 
Use 2 or 3 times a day, rubbing in about 1 teasp of the lini- 
ment at a time. This is also good for frost bites. 

Stings and Bites 

For a bee sting, place a lump of soda on the wound, drop 
some vinegar on the soda, let it bubble a minute, and then 
bind up the wound with soda. There will be no swelling. — 
[No Name. 

For any kind of sting or bite of insects, apply dampened 
salt and bind tightly over the spot. It will relieve instantly 
and usually cures very quickly. — [Mrs H. L., Neb. 



236 THE HOUSEKEEPE R'S REFERENCE BOOK 

For stings of insects, to relieve immediately, wlien far from 
usual remedies, clap a handful of damp dirt or moist clay 
on the wound, removing when dry and heated and replacing 
with a fresh application. — [E. P., Mass. 

For wasp or bee sting apply honey. For the stings of 
"chiggers" use butter thickened with salt. — [P. J., Neb. 

An old-fashioned remedy for the sting of a bee or other 
insect is the juice of a raw onion applied immediately. If the 
sting remains in the wound, it should be extracted and the 
puncture dressed with a little weak ammonia. 

Simple remedies for bee and insect stings are a piece of 
raw beef, a strong solution of ammonia, vinegar and salt, or 
borax moistened with lemon juice, or tincture of myhrr. 
Nettle sting may be cured by rubbing the part with rosemary, 
mint, sage leaves or dock leaves. 

The most effectual remedy for the bite of the harvest bug 
is benzine. A minute drop of tincture of iodine is another 
cure. The attack of these insects may be prevented by sprin- 
kling a little benzine over the stocking. 

The bites of bees, wasps, hornets, scorpions, etc., may be 
instantly relieved by the immediate and free application of 
spirits of hartshorn (ammonia). The part may afterward be 
covered with a little sweet oil. To relieve the itching of mos- 
quito bites apply at once a few drops of aqua ammonia or an 
infusion of tobacco. Carbolic acid, very much diluted, may 
also be used. 

In the case of a bite from a rabid dog or venomous snake, 
the first thing to do is to stop the circulation of the poison by 
binding a handkerchief, towel or rope around the limb, between 
the wound and the heart, and then, if you have no sores on 
your mouth or lips, suck the wound and spit out the blood 
that comes from it, and bathe it with warm water to make 
it bleed. The wound should be made larger with a clean, 
sharp knife, so as to cause the blood to flow freely. If any 
of the following remedies are available, use them with discre- 
tion: Press a hot iron or live coal into the wound to cauterize 
It, or a drop of pure carbolic acid may be applied to the 
wound, or a strong solution of permanganate of potash, or 
strong spirits of ammonia, or full strength peroxide of hydro- 
gen poured into the wound. 

Bites of dogs should in every instance be first of all 
thoroughly cleansed with warm water, which encourages the 
bleeding of the wound, and afterward the raw surface should 
be cauterized either by lunar caustic or carbolic acid, then 
dressed with carbolized oil or carbolized zinc ointment. 

Hives, Prickly Heat and Eczema 

Hives are itchy eruptions, due to impure and overheated 



HEALTH HINTS ^^^ 



blood and also to indigestion. External applications afford 
nSv temDorary relief. It is necessary to take a cooling and 
wood P^nWs medicine to effect a cure. As an external 
appncation use^ teasp carbolic acid to /.P^ sweet oil. Apply 
PVPrv I or 2 hours first day, and 3 or 4 times a day thereatter. 
When reUring take I teasp Epsom salts. This treatment 
SrsSted in ffr three days will usually effect a cure 
%athe Mves with a strong solution of baking soda or with 
strong vinegar Slightly diluted ammonia will relieve the 
intenfe itchfng. The same is true of alcohol, which may be 

"'pr'ckly"heat is a very common affection in infants. This 
condition is aggravated by perspiration. It is seen chiefly n 
ho? weather and especially on children who are too warmly 
clothldTreSment'^ consists chiefly in avoiding or removing 
the cause The irritated skin may be ducted with a camphor- 
zfnc powder, made of 1 dram f^^^-^'f.^'^^^^^^^^'i 
oTiH n, CM starch all three finely powdered. Keep tne cniia 
nS . Hirht diet and give it a dose of magnesia. Itching may 
Z relived bf a soluUon of 1 teasp baking soda in 1 pt water. 

'^Thls makef a'soTtMni^was'h for prickly heat: Mix % pt 
wheal b"an In \ pt watef , then let it stand and use the clear 

'"'E'czema'lf a'-tT^ubiefomf dfsease, particularly prominent in 
infants Some of the principal causes are inherited tendency. 
debiUty of constitution, imperfect hygiene, i^P^^Pf ,^f ^' ^T^^: 
feed ng, digestive disturbances, irritating soap, and the contact 
of soiled diapers. Owing to the disposition of the rash to 
snread every case should early be put under a Physicians 
Sre Thltreatment open to the mother is to relieve the cause 
Resides this she may give a laxative. The skm, if red and 
Seening may be dusted frequently with a drying powder 
I!T nf V It. each oxide of zinc and subnitrate of bismuth. 
SurflceS which touch Sch other should be separated by plac- 
ing betweln them a thin layer of absorbent cotton dusted with 
SI powder To remove crust, soak thoroughly with sweet oil 
and proceed very carefully and gently. 

Sumac and Ivy Poisoning 

Ivy poisoning, if taken in the beginning and treated with 
applications of bicarbonate of soda, can generally be checked. 

^%^SthTtr;ar\s"affST^^vy^po^o^n^^^ 2 or 3 times a day 

""^elTflf sate? t^%^ fc Ihe^parts affected by ivy 
poSonSg and allowed to dry on, is said to be a very effective 
remedy for ivy poisoning.— [Mrs M. A. J.. Wis. 



238 THE HOUSEKEEPER'S REFERENCE BOOK 

For ivy poisoning in its early stages, powdered chalk wet to 
a paste with water and applied thickly will give swift relief 
and prevent further inflammation. — [E. K., Mass. 

A standard antidote for poisoning of wood ivy, sumac, etc., 
is to take a handful of quicklime, dissolve it in water, let it 
stand % hour, and then paint the poisoned parts with it. Three 
or four applications, it is said, will cure nearly every case. 

A simple but efficacious remedy for ivy poisoning is a mix- 
ture of lime water in sweet oil, applied frequently. — [C. L. 
A., O. 

I have seen many remedies prescribed for sumac poisoning, 
some of them (like sugar of lead) unsafe to use except by 
advice of a physician. My boy was so badly poisoned by sumac 
as to be unable to see out of his eyes, on account of the swell- 
ing of his face. A neighbor recommended a tea made from new 
corn cobs. The cobs were broken up in small pieces and 
boiled in a porcelain-lined kettle until the water was a deep 
golden color. Into this we dipped clean towels and wrung 
them out as hot as possible and laid them over the face of 
the little sufferer, changing them as soon as they cooled. I 
kept this up about six hours, and by that time he could open 
his eyes and was able to laugh. The swelling disappeared 
entirely and left no scars. This is a safe remedy that anyone 
who can obtain fresh corn cobs can prepare. — [Farmer's Wife. 

Worms and Riiig>vorms 

Worms are very prevalent among children. They are more 
annoying than dangerous, though they sometimes give rise to 
serious complications, such as convulsions. Delicate and 
weakly children, especially those of a scrofulus habit, are more 
liable to worms than strong children. These parasites are 
always introduced into the body either by means of food or 
water. The treatment of worms which invest the lower bowel 
is best carried out by means of injections combined with bit- 
ters containing calomel. A scant tablesp of common salt dis- 
solved in 1 cup of an infusion of quassia is very efficacious in 
dislodging these parasites. The food of the child should be 
well cooked and eaten with plenty of salt. Give 15 drops of 
tincture of iron in water three times a day after meals. 

For roundworms the best remedy is santonine, in doses 
from 1 to 2 grains. Give at bedtime (the child having no 
supper that night), followed by a dose of castor oil in the 
morning before breakfast. This may be repeated every third 
night, three times. 

Tapeworms are sometimes very difficult to remove, from the 
fact that the head is not easily dislodged, and if every vestige 
of the worm is not gotten rid of, it v/ill grow again. One of 
the most popular remedies is oil of male-fern. Give 10 to 30 



HEALTH HINTS 



drops in milk, the patient having fasted some hours, and follow 
with a dose of castor oil at bedtime. The next morning give 
another dose of male-fern, and in 4 or 5 hours follow with, 
another dose of castor oil. 

When worms have been gotten rid of, it is always wise to give 
the patient a tonic of tincture of iron and. infusion of quassia, 
for a few weeks afterward. Eat no meat. 

Mix % oz oil of turpentine with the yolk of 1 egg and then 
add % pt of thin gruel. Use as an enema for worms. 

A tea made of the bark of the American poplar is very useful 
in cases of debility, feeble digestion and worms. When chil- 
dren are troubled with worms, give them the following: One- 
half oz each spirits of turpentine, oil of anise seed, and castor 
oil, and 1 oz wormseed. The dose for a child one or two years 
old is 10 to 20 drops every 2 or 3 hours. In three days a brisk 
physic should be given. 

Here are some worm cures: Finely powdered sage mixed 
with honey, 1 teasp for a dose. Give sweetened milk with the 
addition of a little alum. Flour and sulphur mixed with honey 
is very good. 

Worms, and even tapeworms, it is said, can be gotten rid of 
by eating a large plateful of grated carrots mixed with syrup, 
for supper. Next morning take a large dose of castor oil. 
Repeat if necessary. — [E. M. T., Kan. 

The seeds of the pumpkin afford a well-recognized remedy 
for worms. The oil of the seeds operates as a speedy diurectic 
in doses from 6 to 10 drops, 4 or 5 times a day. A tea of the 
seeds may be drunk freely at intervals of 2 or 3 hours. Another 
way is to peel the pumpkin seeds and make into a paste with 
sugar. Dilute this with milk and drink freely, always on an 
empty stomach. In the course of a few hours take an active 
cathartic. One tablesp of turpentine and the same quantity 
of castor oil is good. Druggists now furnish a fluid extract of 
pumpkin seeds for the destruction of the tapeworm. — ■ 
[Mrs J. B., Kan. 

For worms in children, steep very strong the bark of spotted 
alder or witch-hazel. For a year-old child give 1 tablesp. 
Increase the dose according to age. Give 4 or 5 times a day, 
for several days. To prevent worms, let children eat onions, 
raw or cooked — raw are the best. 

To cure a ringworm, paint with equal parts tincture of 
iodine and olive oil, night and morning, being careful to cover 
the outer edges of the ring, to prevent its spreading. — 
[Mrs W. M. G., N. J. 

Ringworm is contagious, but easily cured. Dissolve oom- 
mon black gunpowder in strong vinegar, and thoroughly satu- 
rate the ringworm twice a day. — [Mrs T. V., Wis. 

To cure ringworm, take yellow dock root, wash and cut in 
small pieces, simmer in vinegar, and when the strength is 



240 THE HOUSEKEEPER'S REFERENCE BOOK 

extracted, strain and apply the vinegar to the parts affected 
three times a day. 

Minor Eye Troubles 

To cure a sty on the eye put 1 teasp saleratus on a 3-incli 
square piece of muslin, fold so that the soda cannot fall out, 
and before going to sleep dip this muslin in water, lay it on the 
eye and fasten in place by means of a thin cheesecloth bandage. 
This will drive away unripe sties before morning. If the sty 
has come to a head, break open with a needle sterilized in a 
flame, and bathe the eye in warm bicarbonate of soda water, 
which may be followed by the application of a little vaseline. 
[Mrs H. L., Va. 

This is a good wash for tired and weak eyes: To 1 teasp 
borax add 30 drops spirits of camphor and 1 pt hot water. Put 
in a clean bottle and cork. — [Mrs A. S. A., N. Y. 

To relieve inflamed eyes, bathe them frequently with a 
solution of 1 level teasp borax and 1 cup cold water. — 
[C. L. A., O. 

For sore and inflamed eyes there is nothing better than a 
poultice of cold tea grounds. Renew it when it gets warm 
and dry. — [Mrs F. M. G., Me. 

When the eyes are tired, bathe with soft water, or slightly 
diluted witch-hazel will generally afford relief. — [A. G., Mass. 

Immediately after the eye has been struck with force enough 
to make it black, apply a cloth wet with water, just as hot as 
can be borne. Keep this up for 20 minutes. This treatment 
will prevent discoloration. 

To extract any foreign substance from the eye, fill a saucer 
overflowing full with warm water, bring to a level with the 
eye, and raise and lower the eyelid several times, so as to 
let the water enter the eye and wash it out. — [A. G., Mass 

This is a cure for sore and inflamed eyes: Pare and quarter 
a potato, wash, dry and grate as fine as possible. Place be- 
tween pieces of cambric and put the poultice over the inflamed 
eye, keeping it there about 15 minutes. Continue the opera- 
tion three successive nights. 

A good eye wash is made of equal parts rose water and 
witch-hazel. Apply to the eyes as often as necessary. If you 
should happen to get some lime in your eyes, syringe them 
well with 1 part vinegar and 8 parts water. When the lime 
has been thoroughly washed out, use a little olive oil, and 
give the eyes a rest, excluding the light. 

Minor Ear Troubles 

Earache should be looked after immediately. Very serious 
results may follow a neglected earache. If the cause of the 



HEALTH HINTS 241 



earache is not known, consult a physician without delay. When 
an earache is simply the result of a common "cold," some of 
the following old-fashioned remedies may be of help: 

Heat is generally the best remedy for earache. Apply a 
warm poultice or rub in back of the ear with warm oil. In 
case of a discharge, syringe the ear with warm water, and 
consult a physician. 

To cure earache induced by neuralgia, insert cotton plugs 
dipped in a warm mixture of glycerin and witch-hazel, or 
glycerin and rose water. — [Mrs H. L., Va. 

Neuralgic earache may be relieved by rubbing around and 
back of the ear with equal parts of turpentine and lard. — 
[B. E., Ore. 

Thoroughly heat a large onion in the oven, wrap a piece of 
flannel cloth around it, and apply to the ear affected by ear- 
ache. When it cools renew the application, and keep this up 
until the pain has gone. The heat will probably melt the 
hardened ear wax, which must afterward be removed with 
great care. Protect the ears from further cold by plugging 
with a little cotton batting. — [E. E. K., Mass. 

Dr Hutchinson, of London, Eng, says that the safest and 
most effective way of removing foreign substances from the 
ear is to make 6 inches of very fine and flexible wire into a 
loop. Carefully pass it down to the tympanum and turn it 
gently around. Dr Hutchinson thinks this method far pref- 
erable to syringing. 

To remove an insect from the ear, pour lukewarm water 
in the ear, hold the head to one side for a moment, then turn 
the head; the water will run but, carrying with it the insect, — 
[C. S., Okla. 

Felons and Boils 

As soon as a felon is noticed apply the following remedy: 
Mix to the consistency of putty equal quantities of soft soap 
and quicklime, make into little flat balls, and as often as one 
dries apply another. They will need to be changed about 
every half hour and are likely to cause pain, but in 3 or 4 
hours they will have done their work, and the felon will be 
all drawn out, leaving a little hole, which will soon heal up, 
needing only to be washed daily with pure soap and warm 
water and covered with a light bandage to keep clean. Another 
remedy Is to apply a poultice of onions, morning, noon and 
night, for 3 or 4 days. — [A. G., Mass. 

Here is a simple felon cure: Insert the finger or thumb 
into a lemon and keep it there 12 to 24 hours. This will relieve 
the pain, and cure, if taken in time. Another cure is common 
rock salt mixed with spirits of turpentine, in equal parts. 
When it dries put on more. In about 24 hours the felon will 
be cured. — [Mrs J. C, N. Y. 



242 THE HOUSEKEEPER'S REFERENCE BOOK 

When you fear a felon is coming, put 1 pt boiling water on 
the back of the stove, add 1 teasp saleratus and 1 wineglass 
vinegar. Hold your finger in this as hot as can be borne. 
Reheat and repeat about every half hour, till all the matter 
has been drawn to one place, then open the felon with a 
sterilized, sharp knife, remove the foreign matter and clean 
and bandage. 

When I notice I have a felon coming, I bind up the finger 
in cloth and keep it wet with oil of spike, until all soreness is 
gone. — [Mrs M. W., Ida. 

The habitual sufferer with boils needs a constitutional treat- 
ment, as generally there is some lack in the blood which must 
be supplied. It will be necessary to have a physician prescribe 
in that case. A boil should always run its course and should 
not be disturbed, except to apply a flaxseed poultice when pain- 
ful. An incipient boil may be stopped by touching it with 
lunar caustic. It is well to poultice a boil 2 or 3 days after it 
opens, and after that apply a stimulating salve. 

At the very first indication of a boil, touch it with pure 
carbolic acid, being careful not to allow the acid to touch the 
surrounding surface. By this treatment the boil will be 
aborted. 

Melt some shoemaker's black wax, shape into a small, flat 
plaster, and press gently but firmly over the boil. This treat- 
ment will draw out all the pus and inflammation and leaves 
no scar. — [C. L. A., O. 

Thin slices of salt pork put between clean, white cloths are 
good for boils. Change 2 or 3 times a day, until the boil has 
been drawn to a head. — [M. J. D., Mich. 

To cure gum boils, wash them out with warm water, adding 
% teasp tincture of myrrh and a pinch of saleratus to each 
cup of water. — [Mrs H. L., Va. 

Warts and Proudflesh 

Milkweed is a cure for warts. Break a full-grown stalk 
and let the fresh juice fall on the wart and let dry on. Repeat 
application frequently until warts are gone. — [E. P., Mass. 

Warts may be frequently washed with a strong decoction of 
oak bark and will generally disappear under this treatment. 
Another way is to wet a stick of lunar caustic and rub it on 
the warts a few times. 

A solution of vinegar and baking soda will cure warts. If 
the wart is kept moist with it for 10 minutes 3 or 4 times a 
dav, they will disappear in the course of a week or so. — 
[Mrs J. S. A., Vt. 

Take a thin straw or slightly pointed headless match, dip 
in nitric acid, and apply to warts once a day, being careful 
not to let any of the acid touch the surrounding surface. 



HEALTH HINTS 243 



Under this treatment the warts will disappear in a week or 
10 days. — [Mrs F. L., Miss. 

Rub wart with a slice of raw potato once or twice a day 
for a few days, and the wart will gradually disappear, without 
causing soreness, discoloring the skin, or leaving a scar. — 
[Mrs L. E. H., Kan. 

Carefully remove the rough outer surface of the wart and 
apply oil of thuja once or twice a day. This treatment will 
not cause pain or leave a scar. The warts will gradually dry 
up and disappear in about two weeks. — [N. S. B., Ore. 

To remove proudflesh burn a piece of alum, powder it, and 
apply directly to the affected spot. Repeat every day if neces- 
sary, till clear. — [Mrs H. W., Pa. 

Indigestion Cures 

Never eat when very tired, angry or excited. Don't over- 
eat nor take many condiments with your food. Eat slowly. 
Chew well. Don't wash down your food with water. Avoid 
any food that has a tendency to disagree with you. 

I have cured myself of spells of indigestion by adhering to 
a strictly fruit diet for 2 or 3 days. Eat nothing but fruit 
during that time. Dyspepsia, heartburn and indigestion are 
often relieved by a cup of hot water in which a small teasp 
salt has been dissolved. — [B. E., Ore. 

If troubled with indigestion and constipation, eat 2 or 3 
tablesp bran moistened with a little milk and seasoned with 
salt and sugar, after each meal. A tablesp of pure olive oil 
taken 3 times a day will cure indigestion, banish sick head- 
aches and put flesh on a slim person. — [B. E., Ore. 

When you have partaken of anything which does not seem 
to digest well, you may obtain relief by drinking a glass of 
water to which has been added % teasp bicarbonate of soda 
and 10 to 12 drops essence of peppermint. — [Mrs M. J. L., Mich. 

This is good to relieve indigestion and constipation: To 
% lb each of figs and raisins add % lb sugar and % pt boil- 
ing water. Tie up 3^ oz senna leaves in a small cheesecloth 
bag, put this in the above mixture, and let the whole simmer 
slowly 20 minutes. Then pour out on oiled paper to cool. Eat 
about an inch square piece of this at bedtime. — [E. M. T., Kan. 

Cures for Insomnia 

To induce sleep at night, try a glass of hot milk just before 
going to bed. A warm bath sometimes brings sleep to suffer- 
ers of insomnia. — [E. E. K., Mass. 

A good cure for sleeplessness caused by derangement of the 
nervous system is a dish of baked onions.— [Mrs M. H., Wis. 

If you cannot sleep, though you are not ill, try eating a 



244 THE HOUSEKEEPER'S REFERENCE BOOK 

thin slice of bread and butter, sprinkled with a little cayenne 
pepper. This is sure to induce sleep, but do not try the 
remedy too often, for the pepper would soon injure the stom- 
ach if too frequently used. 

A remedy for sleeplessness, which many people never think 
of trying, probably because it is so cheap and easily obtained, 
is plenty of fresh air in the bedroom. — [A. G., Mass. 

Some people find hop or pine needle pillows a help toward 
inducing sleep. Keep the feet warm and the head cool. 

Cures for Drunkenness 

The following is a tonic used by reformed drunkards to 
restore the vigor of the stomach: To % oz gentian root, add 

1 dram valerian root, 2 drams rhubarb root, 3 drams bitter 
orange peel, i^ oz cardamon seeds and 1 dram cinnamon bark. 
Having bruised all the above together in a mortar (druggist 
will do it, if requested), pour upon it ll^ pts boiling water. 
Cover up close, let it stand till cold, then strain, bottle and 
cork securely. Keep in a dark place. About 2 tablesp may 
be taken every hour before meals, and half that quantity 
whenever the patient feels the distressing sickness and pros- 
tration so generally present for some time after alcoholic 
stimulants have been abandoned. 

Following is another cure for drunkenness: To 10 grains 
sulphate of iron add 20 grains magnesia, 20 drams peppermint 
water and 2 drams spirits of nutmeg. Dose: 1 tablesp in water 

2 or 3 times a day. This preparation acts as a tonic and stim- 
ulant, and so partially supplies the place of the accustomed 
liquor, and prevents that absolute physical and moral pros- 
tration that follows a sudden breaking off from the use of 
stimulating drinks. Take above tonics only as long as is 
absolutely necessary. Eat well-cooked food and masticate 
thoroughly. Be resolutely cheerful and keep in open air as 
much as possible. Pray without ceasing. 

Tonics and Blood Purifiers, Etc. 

This is a liver tonic: To 1 pt hot water add the juice of 1 
lemon and % teasp salt. Sip this % hour before breakfast 
every morning for 2 weeks, then skip 2 weeks. This is espe- 
cially beneficial if taken during the months of March and 
April. — [Mrs M. J. L., Mich. 

This is a good spring medicine: Mix together i^ oz each 
of dandelion root, gentian root, prickly ash bark, red clover 
flowers, hops and Jacob's Ladder. This will make 1 qt. Steep 
it in 1% qts water for 3 minutes, then strain, and when cold 
add Vz pt molasses. Keep in a cool place. Dose, % wineglass 

3 times a day. — [Mrs C. O. Dias, N. H. 



HEALTH HINTS 245 



Sassafras tea, drunk freely in the spring, is a great blood 
purifier. It may be drunk hot or cold, and sweetened to taste. 
Some prefer a slice of lemon added to it. It is a very refresh- 
ing and palatable drink. — [Mrs F. B. H., Okla. 

Purchase from the druggist about 5c worth each of sassa- 
fras, sarsaparilla, yellow dock, burdock root and dandelion 
root. Mix well together and put about 1 generous handful of 
this mixture into 1 qt water and boil 2 hours. Dose, 1 small 
wineglassful 3 times a day. This is an excellent blood purify- 
ing medicine. — [Mrs A. A. S., N. Y. 

An old-fashioned and reliable spring purifying tonic is made 
by mixing together, % and %, powdered sulphur and syrup or 
molasses. Dose, 1 teasp every morning before breakfast for 
1 week. When taking this tonic guard against catching cold, 
as this treatment will open the pores of the skin. — [P. E. P., O. 

Dandelion root as medicine: The best way of preparing it 
is to gather the roots in August and September. Evaporate 
by exposing to dry warm air. A decoction of dandelion will 
correct an unhealthy state of the stomach and liver. It is 
diuretic and very beneficial in jaundice. 

Tea made from dandelion root is a good liver medicine, 
as is also the dried powdered inner bark of the barberry. The 
dose is as much as can be put upon a dime taken 3 times a 
day. — [Mrs P. B. H., Okla. 

Boil 1 lb wild cherry bark in 1 qt water till reduced to I pt. 
Sweeten and add a little rum to preserve, or, if to be used 
immediately, omit the rum. Dose, 1 small wineglassful 3 times 
a day, on an empty stomach. This is good for yellow jaundice. 
Give half doses to children. 

For the Little Ones 

To make lime water, take a piece of unslaked lime the size 
of an egg and pour over it 1 qt pure water. Let stand a few 
hours, then filter through a clean, white cloth. Put it in a 
clean bottle and cork. Keep in a cool place. If tlie baby 
needs lime, put 1 teasp of this lime water in 1 cup milk. — ■ 
[Mrs A. S. A., N. Y. 

To cure baby's sore mouth and tongue, wash the mouth after 
each feeding with a soft, clean, white rag dipped in a solution 
of borax and warm water. — [Mrs H. L., Va. 

When a child chokes on a bone or other object that it has 
tried to swallow, promptly turn the youngster upside down 
and hold it by the feet. In most cases the troublesome object 
will be quickly ejected. — [E. E. K., Mass. 

To give children castor oil, warm the spoon by dipping in 
hot water. The oil will then slip easily off the spoon and be 
swallowed before the patient realizes it. A few drops of lemon 
or orange juice over the castor oil will make the taking of it 



246 THE HOUSEKEEPER'S! REFERENCE BOOK 

more agreeable. Give a pincli of salt or a little chocolate or 
peppermint candy after the oil has been taken. 

Parched corn is an excellent remedy for dysentery, diarrhea 
and bowel complaints in children. Parch some corn, then 
grind fine in a coffee grinder. Boil in sweetened and salted 
milk and feed to the patient. It is a palatable and healthful 
food and generally relished by the children. Let them eat 
as much of it as they please. — [B. E., Ore. 

If your children are thin and scrawny and take cold easily, 
give them from a teasp to a tablesp pure olive oil after each 
meal. Give them a pinch of salt as soon as they have swal- 
lowed the olive oil, and no taste of the oil will remain in 
the mouth. 

When a child comes running to you with a splinter in its 
hand, you can extract it easily by steam. Nearly fill a wide- 
mouthed bottle with hot water, place the injured part over the 
mouth of the bottle and press tightly. The suction will draw 
the flesh down and in a minute or two the steam will extricate 
the splinter. — [F. T., N. D. 

To keep a bruise from turning black, cover thickly with a 
paste of starch and water. Repeat when dry. — [P. J., Neb. 

If a child with scarlet fever is well rubbed once or twice 
each day all over with oil, as long as the fever lasts, half the 
danger will be averted, and it will not be so contagious, as 
the patient will not scale. — [W. N., Tex. 

To stop nose bleed, let the child snuff powdered alum up 
the nostrils. The same remedy will stop bleeding when a 
tooth has been pulled, if applied to the cavity. — [W. N., Tex. 

It is sometimes dangerous to use a hot water bag for chil- 
dren. Here is a good substitute: Make a strong bag of linen 
or denim and fill with good, clean sand. Heat thoroughly in 
oven and then slip into another bag of flannel. This retains 
the heat a long time. — [E. E. K., Mass. 

The American senna grows well in almost all sections of 
this country. It is very easily raised from the seeds, and 
ought to be cultivated in every garden. It is well known as a 
physic for children. Steep a handful of the dried leaves in 1 pt 
boiling water. Sweeten the resultant tea islightly and give as 
a dose 1 small cup or less every hour or two, until it operates. 

An infusion of elder flowers is good for feverishness and 
sore mouth in children. Add 1 pt boiling water to 1 tablesp 
of the flowers. The inner bark of the elder mixed with cream, 
fresh butter, tallow or sweet oil, makes a nice cooling oint- 
ment for burns and other inflamed sores. 

A tea of the leaves and bark of witch-hazel is useful to wash 
putrid sores. It is claimed that it will also help to remove the 
substance known as proudflesh. For this purpose a poultice 
should be made of a strong infusion. 



HEALTH HINTS 247 



Constipation Cures 

This is excellent to relieve constipation: Wash and clean 
8 oz each raisins, figs, dates and prunes, removing all the seeds 
and hard portions of fruit. Chop fine and wrap 1 tablesp of 
the mixture in pieces of waxed paper and put in a glass jar to 
keep fresh. Take 1 or 2 as a dose before retiring. — [C. L. A., O. 

Another cure for constipation is made as follows: Steep 
2 tablesp senna leaves in 1 pt boiling water slowly about 2 
hours, then strain and put in a stewpan with 1 lb washed 
prunes. Cover and simmer until the prunes have absorbed 
all the senna water, then put in a glass jar and keep in a 
cool place. Take 1 or 2 tablesp before retiring. — [C. L. A., O. 

Pain Killers 

Put 1 tablesp cayenne pepper in a wide-mouthed bottle, add 
% pt pure alcohol and a small piece of camphor. Cork and let 
stand 12 or 14 days. This is an excellent internal and external 
remedy. One teaspoonful is a dose for internal use. 

Hot Drops: To 1 qt pure alcohol or brandy add 3 oz best 
gum myrrh, pulverized and V4, oz African cayenne. Bottle 
and cork securely. Dose: 1 teasp or less. 

Add 2 handfuls of the root of the blackberry plant to 3 pts 
of milk and boil down to 1 qt. This is very useful in cases of 
diarrhea and dysentery. The dose is 1 cupful every 2 or 3 
hours. 

Homemade Court Plasters 

Soak bruised isinglass in a little warm water for 24 hours, 
then evaporate water by gentle heat. Dissolve the remainder 
in a little pure alcohol and strain this through a piece of loose 
weave linen. It will be a stiff jelly when cool. Pin a piece 
of fine, white silk on a small wooden frame and apply the 
melted jelly thinly and evenly. When the first coat has dried 
apply a second coat, and when this has dried cover the surface 
with a coating of balsam of Peru. 

This is a good substitute for court plaster: Take 1 doz 
pig's feet, well cleaned for cooking, and boil down to a jelly 
of about Vz pt or less. The fatty substance will rise to the 
surface and should be removed. While this jelly is still warm, 
spread with a brush on scraps of clean, white silk. This is 
equal to any of the commercial court plasters. 

Sprains 

As soon as possible, after sustaining a sprain, bandage the 
injured member with cotton wet in cold water. Use a narrow, 
long bandage, bind it closely and keep it wet. Rest and 
keep quiet. 



248 THE HOUSEKEEPER'S REFERENCE BOOK 

This is a good lotion with which to bathe sprains: Into 1 pt 
rose water put % pt cologne water and 1 oz sal ammoniac. 
Keep the injured parts wet with this. — [Mrs J. C, N Y. 

Oil of sassafras will cure a sprain if bathed thoroughly and 
bound with a thick bandage of flannel. — [C. L. A., O. 

To cure a sprain, take the white of 1 egg, 1 tablesp vinegar 
and 1 tablesp turpentine. Mix in a bottle, shake thoroughly 
and bathe the sprain as soon as possible. — [Mrs P. A., Ore. 

Sunstroke, Lightning and Fainting 

Individuals of intemperate habits are much more liable to 
sunstroke than those who live a temperate life. Constipation 
is also a condition which superinduces sunstroke. The symp- 
toms are dizziness, followed by general prostration and vomit- 
ing. The treatment should be very prompt. Apply cold water 
or ice to the scalp at the base of the brain and at the same 
time give the patient a quick-acting purgative. Apply mustard 
poultices to the abdomen and soles of the feet. Keep up the 
cold applications to the head, pending the arrival of the doctor. 

A stroke of lightning, even though it may not kill, will 
invariably seriously derange the nervous system. In such 
cases it is essential that the animal warmth be maintained, 
which in consequence of the shock is liable to become dimin- 
ished. If the respiration is feeble, artificial respiration may be 
employed, just as in the case of drowning. A little stimulant 
may also be administered, and mustard poultices applied across 
the region of the stomach and heart and also to the spine. 

^Fainting or swooning usually arises from some nervoufe con- 
dition affecting the heart's action. The patient should be 
laid in a horizontal position, cold applied to the foreheao, and 
fumes of ammonia to the nostrils. When the patient is able 
to swallow, a little brandy mixed with water should be admin- 
istered. Loosen the garments and open the windows to admit 
plenty of fresh air. Apply hot bricks to the feet. 

A hearty sneeze is said to have the effect of warding off a 
threatening fainting spell. A grain or two of pepper, snuff or 
tobacco introduced into the nose, or tickling the interior of 
the nose a little with a feather, will usually insure a sneeze. 
The sneezing stimulates the blood vessels of the brain. It is 
handy to know this, when smelling salts and other means are 
absent. — [F. E. F., O. 

Miscellaneous Notes 

Excessive perspiration of the hands may be checked by 
squeezing lemon juice on them after washing. A solution 
of 1 oz alum in 1 pt water is also recommended in stubborn 
cases. Washing in a solution of bicarbonate of soda and water 



HEALTH HINTS 249 



is another effective remedy. Dust witli fuller's earth. — • 
[F. T„ N. D. 

When very weary or weak from exhaustion, heat some milk 
to scalding point, then drink it as hot as possible. It refreshes 
almost instantly. — [B. E., Ore. 

The white of an egg and the juice of one lemon, well beaten 
together and slightly sweetened, if taken just before starting 
for a car ride, will prevent car sickness. — [Mrs C. O. D., N. H. 

In cases of erysipelas or blood poisoning, apply the following 
poultice: Cut fine 2 onions and cook till tender in 1 pt water. 
Thicken with wheat bran and add bicarbonate of soda the 
size of a bean. Change poultices as often as necessary, until 
inflammation is reduced. — [Mrs M. J. L., Mich. 

This is an excellent laxative: Steep 1 oz senna leaves in 
1 pt boiling water until strength is extracted. Place a layer 
of figs in an earthen dish and pour over them the strained 
senna tea. Place the dish in a moderate oven and allow to 
remain until the liquid has been absorbed by the fruit. Keep 
in a closed jar. Take one fig as a dose before retiring. — 
[R. M. F., Me. 

If the condensed air on the cool window panes where a 
number of persons are assembled be collected and burned, a 
smell as of singed hair will show the presence of organic 
matter, and if it be allowed to remain on the windows a few 
days, it will be found to be alive with animaculae. Moral — - 
Air your rooms. 



For Additional Memoranda 



The Postscript 

Writing for Publication 

When writing for publication, observe the following rules: 

1 — Write plainly, with ink, on one side of the paper only. 

2 — Don't crowd lines. Allow enough space between them 
for editing. 

3 — On the upper left-hand side of the first page write your 
full name and address plainly, and on the right-hand side note 
the number of words contained in the manuscript. 

4 — Inclose a stamped self-addressed envelope for the return 
of your manuscript in case it should prove unavailable. 

5 — Never send a separate letter to the editor referring to 
manuscript sent under another cover. No letter is needed 
unless in special cases, when it should be inclosed with the 
manuscript. 

6 — Never address an individual, but address the publication 
for which your manuscript is intended, and mark envelope MS 
in lower left-hand corner. There are many departments in a 
publishing house, and some concerns publish more than one 
magazine or paper. 

7 — Never, never, never roll your manuscript. Editors inva- 
riably drop rolled manuscripts in the wastebasket, unread. 

8 — Always date letters and sign your name and address in 
full in the plainest writing you are capable of. The Dead 
Letter Office at Washington is obliged to destroy millions of 
pieces of mail matter every year, which they are unable to 
deliver or return to senders. 

How to Send Money 

Clean, new one or two-cent stamps are usually accepted for 
the fraction of a dollar. Do not send personal checks to 
strangers. Send money order, or money in a registered letter, 
being careful to save the receipt until you are sure the remit- 
tance has been received. 

Mailing Coin 

Quite the quickest and easiest way to prepare a small coin 
to send in a letter is to tear off the corner of an old envelope, 
drop the coin into the little sack thus formed and pin to the 
letter across the opening. Dimes being so thin two can be sent 
without extra postage or danger of loss. 

250 



THE POSTSCRIPT 251 



To Make Lead Pencil Writing Indelible 

Lay it in a shallow dish and pour skimmed milk upon it. 
When the paper is wet all over, take it up, drain it off, and 
brush off with a feather the drops which collect on the lower 
edge. When it is dry the writing will be indelible. 

To Take Out Writing 

To remove ink writing from paper wash alternately with 
camel's hair pencils dipped in solutions of cyanide of potassium 
and oxalic acid. These are deadly poisons. 

To Make Writing Look Old 

Infuse 1 dram saffron into % pt ink and warm it over a 
gentle fire. When this ink is used the writing will turn yellow 
and have the appearance of very old writing. 

Magic Copying Paper 

To make black paper use lampblack mixed with cold lard; 
to make red paper use Venetian red mixed with lard; for blue 
ipaper, Prussian blue mixed with lard, and for green paper, 
chrome green mixed with lard. Mix to the consistency of a 
thick paste and apply to sheets of paper with a rag, then take 
a flannel rag and rub until all color ceases to come off. To 
•write with this paper, lay down the paper upon which you wish 
to write, then place on the prepared copying paper, moist side 
down, and over this lay another sheet of paper. Write with 
a pointed, hard pencil, same as you would with a pen. 

Colored Chalk or Crayons 

The ingredients are % lb blue clay, % lb of the coloring 
requirement (such as vermilion, Prussian blue, chrome, etc), 
2 ox turpentine, 4 ox spirits of wine (alcohol), and 6 oz fine 
shellac. Mix the glije with the water and pass through a fine 
Sieve, and let settle. The water should then be poured off and 
the glue dried. The shellac must be dissolved in the mixed tur- 
pentine and alcohol with a little warmth. Blend the dry clay 
and coloring and then add the shellac mixture. Mix well so 
that the whole is like a well-incorporated doughy mass. It 
may then be rolled out into pencil form and dried with stove 
iheat. 

Homemade Barometers 

Take a common wide-mouthed glass pickle bottle and fill it 
to within 3 inches of the top with water. Next take a common 



252 THE HOUSEKEEPER'S REFERENCE BOOK 

riorence oil flask, remove the straw covering and cleanse the 
flask thoroughly. After this plunge the neck of the flask into 
the pickle bottle as far as it will go. In fine weather the 
water will rise in the neck of the flask, even higher than the 
mouth of the pickle bottle, and in wet, windy weather the 
water will fall to within an inch of the mouth of the flask. 
Before a heavy gale of wind the water will leave the flask 
altogether, about 6 or 8 hours before the gale comes to its 
hight. 

Another very good homemade barometer is made by dis- 
solving 2% drams camphor in 11 fluid drams alcohol. In 
another bottle put 38 grains nitrate of potash (saltpeter) 
and a like quantity of muriate of ammonia (sal ammoniac) 
with 9 fluid drams of water. When all these ingredients are 
perfectly dissolved, mix the two solutions and shake them 
well together. Put this mixture into a glass bottle and cork 
loosely, or tie over the mouth of the bottle a piece of linen 
or cotton cloth. Place this bottle in a good light, but out of 
the sunshine, where it can be observed without handling. When 
the weather is fine and clear the fluid will be in a like condi- 
tion, but on the least change the chemicals will rise and duly 
subside again. By watching these changes one soon becomes 
able to predict the probable changes a few hours in advance. 

Minstrel Powder 

To make blacking for the face to prepare for minstrel shows, 
proceed as follows: Cut corks in small pieces, dip each piece 
in alcohol, put them in an iron kettle, and touch a flaming 
taper to the pile. They will burn down to black ashes. Sift 
these ashes through a fine wire sieve and wet the dust with 
water, making it into a thick paste. It may be kept in a 
metal box until ready to use. When wanted for use, take a 
little of the paste in the palm of the hand, wet it a little, and 
then rub and apply as if washing the face. It will give a 
glossy black, which can, however, be readily removed with 
soap and water. By using stale beer instead of water, when 
mixing the paste, a higher gloss will be obtained. 

To Make Modeling Clay 

Knead dry clay with glycerin instead of water. This will 
make a mass that will continue moist and plastic for some 
time. 

To Imitate Ground Glass 

Dissolve Epsom salt in beer and apply this mixture to the 
glass with a brush. As it dries it will crystallize and present a 
nice imitation of fancy ground glass. 



Index 



Page 

Bonsebold Hygiene and 

Sanitation 7 

Air 8 

Atmosphere, to test the 

purity of 8 

Cellar, the 20 

Cesspools, closets and 

drains 17 

Cistern filter 15 

Deodorizers and disin- 
fectants 10 

Disinfectant, sulphur... 9 

Disinfecting washes 21 

Fumigation 9 

Indoor convenience 19 

Plumbing 20 

Sanitary helps 21 

Sunlight 8 

Ventilated platform 16 

Ventilation 9 

Water 10 

Water cooler 11 

Water filters 11 

Water, to detect hard. . . 16 

Wells, cistern and tanks 11 

Well, to illuminate 17 

Housekeeping' and House- 
cleaning 23 

Beds and beddings 27 

Benzine for cleaning.... 30 
Brooms, to make last 

longer 30 

Burglar alarm 34 

Cellar, the 24 

Cleaning hints 32 

Clock, to clean 31 

Closets and cupboards.. 25 

Dish cloths and towels 29 
Floor and wall crack 

fillers 27 

Floor, hardwood substi- 
tute 29 

Floors and walls 26 

Frames, gilt, to freshen 31 
Furniture, mending and 

cleaning 28 

Kettles, to mend 31 

Leaks, to stop 34 

Paint, to clean 31 

Pipes, to clean kitchen 

drain 29 

Plaster casts, to bronze 34 
Polishers, furniture and 

metal 29 

Screen doors and win- 

25 



Page 
Housekeepingr and House- 
cleaning— Con<i«Meii 

Shades and curtains.... 25 

Soap, scouring 30 

Steel, to preserve from 

rust 34 

Stoves and chimneys... 24 

Tables and tubs, to clean 29 

Walls, to remedy damp 30 
Walls, whitewashing, 

painting, papering 27 

Window washing 26 

Wood box 31 

Vermin and Insect Pests 35 

Ants 49 

Bed-bugs 42 

Beetles 45 

Birds, to protect fruit 

trees 51 

Buffalo bugs 47 

Cockroaches 40 

Fleas 41 

Flies 37 

Fly poisons and repel- 
lents 38 

Lice 50 

Mice 45 

Mosquitoes 39 

Moth remedies 46 

Moths 45 

Pests, on house plants 48 

Rat poisons and traps 44 

Rats 43 

Silverfish 47 

Snails 51 

Spiders 49 

The Care of Fets 53 

Canaries, the care of 62, 66 

Cats, the care of 59, 62 

Dogs, the care of 54, 59 

Gold and silver fish 69 

Guinea pigs 70 

Parrots, the care of 66, 68 

Pigeons, the care of 68, 69 

Rabbits 70 

Rats and mice, white... 69 

The I^aundry 71 

Bluing 80 

Carpets and comforters, 

how to wash 78 

Clothes, colored, how to 

wash ■ 73 

Clothes, sorting 73 

Clothes, to soak 72' 



254 THE HOUSEKEEPER'S REFERENCE BOOK 



Page 
The l^anudry — Continued 
Clothes, white, how to 

wash 73 

Clothing, to make in- 

comhustible 88 

Clothing, to make water- 
proof 88 

Cotton goods, to shrink 89 

Curtains, how to wash.. 77 

Dampening clothes 84 

Dish cloths and towels, 

how to wash 75 

Flannels, how to wash.. 75 
Handkerchiefs, how to 

wash 75 

Ironing 84, 86 

Ironing scorch, to re- 
move 90 

Lace, how to clean 78 

Overalls, how to wash.. 77 

Silk, how to wash 77 

Starching clothes 81 

Starch recipes 81, 83 

Underwear and hosiery, 

how to wash 76 

Useful hints 90, 91 

Velvet, to renovate 89 

Washboard or washing 

machine 73 

Washing with kerosene 78 

Washing without boiling 79 

Water, all about 71 

Water, to soften 72 

Woolen garments, to re- 
move shine 90 

Woolen goods, to shrink 89 
Woolens and blankets, 

how to wash 76 

Wringer, the 73 

Soaps, Washing- Fluids and 

Bleach.es 93 

Bleaches 101 

Javelle water 100 

Lye, how to make 95 

Mildew spots 101 

Soap, hard 95, 96 

Soap, labor-saving 98 

Soap, soft 97 

Soap, to prepare grease 

for 93 

Soap, to prepare tallow 

for 94 

Stains, to remove. . .100, 102 

Washing compounds.... 99 
Woolen goods, to wash 

with soap bark 98 

Care of £[amps and Stoves 111 

Cement for niending 

lamps 115 

Chimney, the cause of 

smoking 121 

Chimney, to keep clean 118 

Chimney, to see up 121 



Page 
Care of I^amps and Stoves 

—Continued 
Chimneys and shades... 112 

Clinkers 118 

Coal, to economize 118 

Fire kindlers 118 

Fire, to keep 117 

Fires, how to make 117 

Fuel savers 119 

Gasoline stoves, care of 115 
Lamp chimneys, to re- 
pair 114 

Lamp fire, to extinguish 114 

Lamps and lights Ill 

Lamps, to clean 113 

Lamps, to fill and trim 113 
Lamps, to prevent ex- 
ploding 114 

Lampwicks, homemade. 114 

Lanterns, care of 116 

Oil stoves and heaters.. 115 

Oil, to save 115 

Oil, to test 112 

Matches, to make water- 
proof 121 

Stove blacking 119 

Stove cement 120 

Stove polishes 119 

Stoves, about 116 

Wiclis and burners 112 

Homemade Polishes 123 

Furniture creams and 

oils 132 

Furniture polishes 131 

Gold jewelry, to polish. . 124 

Harness blackings 129 

Harness varnishes 130 

Leather, to oil 130 

Metal polishes and 

cleansers 123 

Patent leather, to reno- 
vate 127 

Shoe blackings 127 

Shoe polishes 128 

Shoes, to break in 125 

Shoes, to clean white 

canvas 126 

Shoes, to dry 125 

Shoes, to make water- 
proof 126 

Shoes, to oil soles 125 

Shoes, to restore kid. . . . 126 
Silver cleansers and pol- 
ishes 124 

Painting', Staining and Var- 
nishing 133 

Bronze, how to 138 

Floor dressings 137 

Floor fillings 134 

Floor paints 137 

Knots, to kill 134 

Paint brushes 133 

Painting rules 133 



INDEX 



255 



Page 
Painting*, Staining^ and Var- 
nishing' — Continued 

Paint recipes 138, 139 

Paint stains, to remove 

from glass 135 

Paint, to mix for tints.. 136 

Paint, to reduce 135 

Paint, to wash 136 

Stains 139, 140 

Varnishes, homemade 

141, 144 

"Varnishing, about 141 

Walls, to paint or white- 
wash 136 

Paperhanging- and Wliite- 

washiug- 145 

Brushes and other tools 146 

Colors, to mix 151 

Fireproof washes 153 

Kalsomining 152 

Lime, to test 152 

Measuring a room 145 

Paint board 156 

Paperhanging, about.... 145 

Paper, to hang 147 

Pastes for papering.... 147 

Roof composition 155 

Trimming and cutting.. 146 

"Walls, to mend 151 

"Walls, to prepare 146 

Wash recipes 154, 155 

Waterproof composition 148 

Whitewashes 148, 151 

Whitewashing hints 153 

Glues, Pastes and Mnci- 

lag-e 157 

Glue, fireproof 159 

Glue for crockery 159, 161 
Glue for damp atmos- 
phere 159 

Glue for labeling glass 160 

Glue for labeling tin... 160 

Glue for stones and steel 161 

Glue in sheets 160 

Glue, waterproof 159 

Glues, compound 158 

Glues, liquid 158 

Mucilage recipes 161, 162 

Paste recipes 162, 163 

Cements, Putty and Solder 165 

Cement, acid-proof 167 

Cement, Armenian 170 

Cement, fireproof for 

stoves 171 

Cement for aquarium... 174 

Cement for belting 173 

Cement for cloth 174 

Cement for floor cellar. . 175 
Cement for floor cracks 175 
Cement for knife han- 
dles 168 



Cements, Putty and Solder 

—Continued 

Cement for lamps 171 

Cement for leaks and 

breaks 169 

Cement for leather 172 

Cement for marble 168 

Cement for mending 

metal 171 

Cement for movable 

joints 172 

Cement for roof and gut- 
ters 175 

Cement for rubber 173 

Cement for steam pipe 

joints 172 

Cement for stone 174 

Cement, hard 169 

Cement, Indian 170 

Cement, Japanese 171 

Cement, mahogany 169 

Cement, never-yielding. 170 

Cement, Persian 171 

Cement powder 168 

Cement, waterproof..., 168 

Cement, white 167 

Cements for china and 

crockery 166 

Cements for glass 167 

Mortar, stormproof 176 

Putty, about 176 

Putty, recipes 177 

Soldering, about 178 

Soldering, directions, 178, 179 

Dyes, Inks and Sealing 

Wax 181 

Carpet dyes 185 

Dyeing at home 181 

Ink recipes 186, 169 

Preparations for dyeing 182 
Recipes for homemade 

dyes 182, 184 

Sealing wax recipes 189, 190 

Personal Hygiene 191 

Bathing 193 

Blackheads 192 

Cement for filling teeth 205 

Cold creams and salves 194 

Complexion, the 191 

Corn and bunion reme- 
dies 206 

Cosmetics 193 

Dandruff cures 203 

Essence for smelling 

bottle 199 

Feet, the care of 206 

Freckle and sunburn lo- 
tions 194 

Frosted feet and chil- 
blains 207 

Hair brushes and combs 201 

Hair curling fluids 204 






256 THE HOUSEKEEPER'S REFERENCE BOOK 



Page 
Personal Hygiene — Continued 

Hair dressings 203 

Hair dyes 201 

Hair shampoos 201 

Hair, the care of 200 

Hair, to prevent turning 

gray 201 

Hair tonics 202 

Hands, to whiten 195 

Ingrowing toe-nails 207 

Lavender water 199 

Massaging 193 

Perfumery 197 

Perfumery bags 198 

Perfume, to extract from 

flowers 198 

Perspiration odor, to re- 
move 196 

Pimples 192 

Powders, face 196 

Otto of roses 198 

Rouge, beet 196 

Soaps, toilet 197 

Teeth, the care of 204 

Toothache tinctures.... 205 
Tooth powders and liq- 
uids 204, 205 

Violet water 199 

Wart cures 207 

Health Hints 209 

Bowel disorders 228 

Cold cures 223 

Constipation cures 247 

Cough syrups and com- 
pounds 218, 220 

Court plasters, home- 
made 247 

Croup cures 221 

Cuts and bruises 231 

Drunkenness, cures for. 244 

Ear troubles 240 

Eye troubles 240 

Painting 248 

Felons and boils 241 

Headache and neuralgia 

pains 227 

Hives, prickly heat and 

eczema 236 

Indigestion cures 243 



Health Hints — Continued 

Insomnia cures 243 

Ivy and sumac poison- 
ing 237 

Lightning stroke 248 

Medical necessities, list 

of 214 

Medicines and their uses 

214, 218 
Miscellaneous notes 

245, 248 

Pain killers 247 

Poisoning, in cases of. . 210 
Poisons and their anti- 
dotes 210, 214 

Poultices and plasters.. 226 
Rheumatism remedies 

224, 225 
Salves and liniments 

232, 235 

Scalds and burns 229 

Sore throat and hoarse- 
ness 222 

Sprains 247 

Stings and bites 235, 236 

Sunstroke 248 

Tonics and blood puri- 
fiers 244 

Warts and proudflesh... 242 
Whooping cough reme- 
dies 221 

Worms and ringworms 

238, 239 

The Postscript 250 

Barometers, homemade.. 251 
Chalk or crayons, col- 
ored 251 

Copying paper 251 

Dominoes and dice, 

Glass, soluble 252 

Ground glass, to imitate 252 

Modeling clay, to make 252 

homemade 252 

Money, how to send.... 250 
Writing for publication £50 
Writing, to make indeli- 
ble 251 

Writing, to make look 

old 251 

Writing, to take out.... 251 



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